Get a Harvest Every 2 Weeks
- Thread starter Al B. Fuct
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Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
I'm not talking about the overall height, I'm talking about elongation of the plant between the nodes. There's a lot of distance between each node point on some of the plants. That's normally indicative of high air temps, wonder how it happened in your case with the garage being so cold. What does your peak-memory thermometer say? You DO have one, don't you? 
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
psy, it's either excessive air temp or radiant heat from that silly tanning light that's causing the stretch in the tall plant. T'ain't natcheral, son. Get it out of there.
Back to my op for a minute... Cooltubes are still working like a champ, pinning the room temp between 23.0 - 24.5C, except for one weird glitch.
A couple days ago, I checked my peak mem thermos. There are 2 in this room, just to be sure. One is an indoor/outdoor type, which measures air temp in the immediate vicinity of the thermo; it also has a remote 'outdoor' sensor, which I have put in the cooltube exhaust duct so I can monitor that the cooling system is working correctly. The cooltube EGT is usually about 32-33C with an air intake temp of about 20-21C.
Scarily, I had a big room air temp spike the other day. One of the thermos recorded a flowering room air temp peak of 29.5C and the other 27.5C! Amazing, considering ambient air available to be drawn into the op was at a cool 21C.
For temps to spike as high as 27-29.5C, my main exhaust blower or entire room air ventilation system would have to have failed for an entire lights on period... and I am fairly confident all the ventilation blowers are OK. The main vent thermostat seems to be switching stuff on and off OK, to the best of my knowledge. I have checked and rechecked all the connections in the ventilation system electrics and all looks OK. This really is a bit of a mystery to me.
If the main ventilation system is working and the cooltubes are being ventilated normally, the room will be right between 23.0 & 24.5. Cooltube EGT will be about 32-33.
29.5 is seriously hot and would cause plant damage or stretchy buds.
It's been OK for a couple of days now, not deviating from the 23-24.5 range, lights on or off... I'll keep watching it tho... something's amiss- and it may just be highly intermittent and hard to identify.
Back to my op for a minute... Cooltubes are still working like a champ, pinning the room temp between 23.0 - 24.5C, except for one weird glitch.
A couple days ago, I checked my peak mem thermos. There are 2 in this room, just to be sure. One is an indoor/outdoor type, which measures air temp in the immediate vicinity of the thermo; it also has a remote 'outdoor' sensor, which I have put in the cooltube exhaust duct so I can monitor that the cooling system is working correctly. The cooltube EGT is usually about 32-33C with an air intake temp of about 20-21C.
Scarily, I had a big room air temp spike the other day. One of the thermos recorded a flowering room air temp peak of 29.5C and the other 27.5C! Amazing, considering ambient air available to be drawn into the op was at a cool 21C.
For temps to spike as high as 27-29.5C, my main exhaust blower or entire room air ventilation system would have to have failed for an entire lights on period... and I am fairly confident all the ventilation blowers are OK. The main vent thermostat seems to be switching stuff on and off OK, to the best of my knowledge. I have checked and rechecked all the connections in the ventilation system electrics and all looks OK. This really is a bit of a mystery to me.
If the main ventilation system is working and the cooltubes are being ventilated normally, the room will be right between 23.0 & 24.5. Cooltube EGT will be about 32-33.
29.5 is seriously hot and would cause plant damage or stretchy buds.
It's been OK for a couple of days now, not deviating from the 23-24.5 range, lights on or off... I'll keep watching it tho... something's amiss- and it may just be highly intermittent and hard to identify.
sportsguy1598
Well-Known Member
Hey Al I love the op you have goin on right now...do you think think this could be successfully implemented on a smaller scale in a stealth grow...I'm thinking about doing a cab grow maybe with ScrOG...do you think it would be possible to harvest every 2 weeks with ScrOG in a cab?
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
ScrOG requires vegging of the plants to be flowered and each plant would have to have their own screen as they will mature at different times.
Far too fiddly... and I don't want to devote any valuable lighted plant floorspace to vegging plants which will be flowered. Lighted space is even more valuable in a stealth cabinet grow. All that in mind, I would not recommend ScrOG for a rotating output op.
All you need for a SoG rotating harvest is space to veg 1-2 mums, root your clones and flower a minimum of 4 plants.
Get a pk mem thermo/hygro in there, too. You need to know what's going on in your absence.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
pk mem thermo/hygros continuously monitor the temp and RH. They simply record the highest and lowest figures in memory. You manually clear the memories as desired with a reset button. The time period of recording depends on the manual reset interval.
MFG STICHMOUTH
Active Member
thats great what would you recommend for somthing a bit smaller i have 12 about 6days old right now
how much is your electric bill runnin thats my biggest concern right now
how much is your electric bill runnin thats my biggest concern right now
sportsguy1598
Well-Known Member
Al good to see that I'm not the only insomniac up at this hour...I think I'm gonna go with your continuous grow method for my first endeavor before I get in over my head with a ScrOG grow...do you have any recommendations as to how many plants i could fit in a decent size cabinet...i mean is there a good plant to sq.ft. ratio? and/or what size cabinet do you think would be optimal for this type of grow? Sorry for so many questions...thanks so much for your help!
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Well, I'd be lying if I said that running a 400HPS 24/7 and a pair of 1000s for 12h/day was insignificant on my bill. With all the goods running, my op pulls about 3500W. It's a couple hundred bucks a month, easy. However, I'm getting about 2.5-3lb/mo for that investment. Kinda offsets it.
The electric bill is paid in full on the due date every single time. To the pwr co, I'm just a good customer. My clocks run at GMT +10 hours, so it may not be as late here as it was for you. That's the bewdy of msg boards, eh.
ScrOG is art when done well and there's a lot of bragging rights in it, I suppose, but it's not the best method for pumping buds out of a grow op at a great rate. If you are putting as many plants into an op every 2 weeks as I am, training plants around screens would be a full-time pain in the arse. ScrOG is best for low-plant count ops that mainly just supply the grower with smoke. You can stand back and admire how pretty well-done ScrOGs are... but you won't pull poundage out of a ScrOG on a regular basis, at least not without pulling a fair amount of your hair out as well.
You can SoG in 6" dia pots, allowing 4 plants per sq ft, presuming SoG pruning techniques are applied (remove branching on lower 1/3 of plant in ends of wks 1 & 3 of flowering) to prevent crowding. SoG ops need a lot of air circ- a couple of oscillating circ fans for every 6-12 sq ft are needed, as well as a lot of air pumped through the op by the ventilation system.
Grow cabinets benefit massively from cooltubes. Heat removal is a big problem in cabinet grows. You could run a cooltubed 250 in a roughly refrigerator sized cabinet (~4sq ft floorspace) to grow 14-16 SoG pruned plants. Double that floorspace and use a 400 HPS in a cooltube for about 2x the buds.
sportsguy1598
Well-Known Member
Oh ok so we have an Aussie around here do we? anyway Al thanks that was exactly the info i was looking for...i could prolly yeild around 4 ounces per harvest if i had 16 plants in the rotation correct?
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Bloody fuckin' oath, mate.
Cooee, cobber. Strewth!I know a few other Orstrayan words, too.
Cool.
Under a 250, 1/4z per sounds like a reasonable estimate for a new-to-newish grower with a brand-new op. 4z per 16 plants sounds do-able and should improve when all parameters are tweaked in, as you gain experience running the op. However, you'll be pulling out just 4 plants at a time in a 2-week rotation system.
Smart new growers build their ops long before sprouting beans and test-run them for a week or so to get an idea of how close to right the temps will run (24-26C is good). You can simulate the humidity introduced into the room air from plants by hanging a towel up (somehow, you'll work it out) with one end dipping in a bucket of water. The towel should be under the light to force rapid evaporation of water from the towel. As water evaporates off the towel, it will wick up more water. One towel should act like 4-6 SoG plants.
My op uses about 15-20 litres of water per day across all 4 flowering tanks and the mother system tank. I get about 10 litres per day of that back with the dehumidifier. Free distilled water, yay!
That goes right back into the tanks, of course.
MFG STICHMOUTH
Active Member
so you have a "grow room" for the mothers and one for the clones then straight to flowering right?how long are the clones chilling be they go to flower?
sportsguy1598
Well-Known Member
So I have no idea what you said in "Orstrayan" haa...anyway would upgrading to a 400W increase the harvest by a noticeable amount or is it not worth it?
Hi Al, i know you are using 8 inch pots but i dunno how you fit 23 of them in a 3x3 table. i have a 18" by 24" table in a closet grow that i am using now and i want to get away from the 6"x6" rockwool cubes and go to fytocell. I would like to know the diameter of your pots. how may do you think i can fit in a 18"x24" tray under a 600w hps? Later man.
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Thanks.
That's right. I have a roughly 1.5'W x 5'L x 7'H "room" (more like a cupboard!) housing my mums under 24/7 400HPS light. They are in a flood tray which is about 1' x 4'. The floorspace is only slightly larger than the tray to permit placement of an oscillating fan in the area and allow for some air circ. The mother zone has its own thermostat and 150mm axial exhaust fan. Intake is passive.
An area this small with that big of a light in it is hard to keep cool; in summer, the tstat keeps the fan running almost all the time to keep temps at or below 26C, even when intake air is 20-21C. A cooltube would be great in here but there's simply no room for one. I might someday modify the existing micro reflector so it can be air-cooled. However, the mother plants don't seem to care too much. Vegging plants are somewhat more tolerant of excess heat and RH (to a point, of course) than are flowering plants.
The clones spend about 14 days in the clonebox, though they set root in 7 days, with most copies having fairly profuse root formation by day 10. My last batch has popped first tap roots in 6 days.
Must be doing something right. That's OK, I don't know what I said either. Just something out of the 'Australian for tourists' book I was given by one very kind Aussie. Says here that the phrase is supposed to be a polite way to invite your boss's wife to get naked and dance on your desk, which apparently is an Australian custom- or so it says in this tourists' book. It'd have to be true, wouldn't it?
A 400 used in the same floorspace as a 250 will give you bigger, denser buds further down from the tops than a 250. You will get more yield from the same number of plants you housed under a 250, but a 400 can really do quite a few more plants with decent quality. If you're only growing for yourself, try the 250 first, you'll probably get what you need and save $ on power.
Here's 24 in an 820mm^2 tray, though I usually only put in 23. You can see that they don't sit flat on the tray when there's 24 wedged in:
GoodFriend
Lumberjack
perlite?
any take on wick cloners? i'm digging the perlite for my medium and my bubble cloner hasn't been the best root producer... and i really need to be able to push these clones faster...
any take on wick cloners? i'm digging the perlite for my medium and my bubble cloner hasn't been the best root producer... and i really need to be able to push these clones faster...
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