Yes, unfortunately I think I am too late as the roots have come together and trying to get them apart would be suicide!Have you given any thought to spreading it out to the outer sites you have covered up? I'm not sure if you realize how big those are gonna get. I would also lose that aluminum foil. It's not really doing anything but getting in the way.
Nice job so far.
Again thanks for the kind words, I check the numbers twice a day and am very vigilant in keeping PH, temperature, PPM, and water level during each check up. I do my best to provide optimum growing conditions, but reading through your journal I now know I am not giving the roots what they need; this will be corrected, as I want to be a root grower too.I noticed you're running a tri-meter with your bubbleponics. That's why I took an interest in your journal. You have precise control with that little monitoring station. How much that unit set you back btw? Okay, so with that little gizmo telling you (and me) exactly what's going on, I'd say you're doing okay. Just watch that 74 on the temp. Try to cool it down closer to 70 any way you can.
Yes, train them away from each other as best you can with the available space. Use string and various paper weights on the floor around it as anchors or something... Too late to move sites with root entanglement. Don't cut clones yet. Wait till she's a bit bigger and try your best to strategically cut so that you create a fim with what you leave behind. And don't take too many cuts if you're gonna do it any time soon. Don't shock it too much.
It might be okay to give 'em a little more food too. But I'm the crazy guy who thinks burning his plants is normal. So you might want to keep that in mind when I start talking about ppms. ha ha.
Edit:
Draping mylar around a bare bones metal shelf is pretty smart... A quasi-metallic enclosure. Watch that growth. How much oxygen you pumpin? If you want to increase your plants' growth rate, overall health, and resistance to shock, get another pump, get two more.
Edit again:
Bravo on the tri-meter btw. I can't say enough about it. I don't know how much you paid for yours, but they're not cheap like the dippy pens. Growing on instruments is the only way to go, just like flying a plane. With that you'll avoid most of the problems experienced by growers without them. I strongly recommend every hydro grower to get serious enough to make that purchase.
After I uploaded the pictures I went back and thought I should move it; I did, but thank you kindly for noticing and mentioning the little things that can affect a grow.Is that the ballast right next to the tri-meter? You might want to put it further away from a heat source.
Ok I will leave the 1/3hp out in the shed , I will journey out this weekend to get a stronger air pump, a float switch, and a submersible pump.Here is the response regarding the external auto-top I wrote at my thread. But you shouldn't have to keep looking at my journal for answers so here it is again:
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Remote auto-top requires a float switch that should run you around 40 bucks. Just google float switch. You should even be able to get a better one than mine (mine is actually one of the more ghetto models but I like it) for a reasonable cost. You will plug a small submersible (that you will have sitting in an external res of plain water) into the float switch. The float switch will plug into a power outlet but has an outlet built into it that you will plug this pump into. Run the output line of the pump back into your main res with the floater device set in your res to activate the pump whenever the level drops. That's it!
Don't be daunted if it sounds a little complicated. It isn't. Research a few float switch models, download the pdf operation manuals and determine which model would work best for your tub. Any number should suit your needs. Again, it sounds a little nuts, but if you set this up properly, the auto-top will establish a rhythm of growth that will improve yield dramatically. And you will never grow any other way. If and when you do get this going, just manually adjust the ppm back up to your desired target number as the water topper slowly dilutes... It's really the peanut butter to the jelly of your tri-meter. With the tri-meter, it's precision growing all the way... no guessing games, no errors... And look ma! No salt buildup! Everyone thinks I have a green thumb, but my dark little secret is the auto top (not so secret since I announced it here lol). My thumb isn't all that green. Lol.
Edit:
In addition to constant refresh eliminating salt buildup (also eliminating the need to run around with a jug of water watching a silly marker line in a dark res), it is an immensely powerful automated flushing tool. I am now removing the last traces of nutrient simply by dipping a power-head pump into the main res, force-topping automatically with fresh water. It's a hydro grower's dream...
Edit:
Dude, I just googled float switch and came up with a bunch way less than 40 bucks. Shit, now I can't remember how much I paid for mine. Shit. Probably too much.
Damn, Edit again:
The only thing is, you need a little extra air space in your res to install the actual float device, but I'm thinking if you have tri-meter probes in there, you should be able to work it out. Remember that dropping your water level a little and allowing a bit more of your roots to be exposed above water will not hurt the plants, in fact they'll like it.
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The pond pump might be a little on the overkill side, but I don't see why that couldn't work... A small, inexpensive submersible would be better suited to your compact grow environment, though. Leave the pond pump for pumping ponds...Lol.
Wow, you got that refurb tri at a steal. Nice find.
Edit:
I looked at your photos again a little more closely. It looks like you have enough air space in your res to install a float device the way it is.
Whew! Yeah, def leave that 1/3 horse for bigger jobs! Lol. I just imagined a small horse resting in my external res waiting to pump a little water to refresh my surface. Yeah, he'd be a little under-worked. Lol!Ok I will leave the 1/3hp out in the shed , I will journey out this weekend to get a stronger air pump, a float switch, and a submersible pump.
Well it may not help this grow, I am done adding money to this grow and already am in the building stages for the next grow! I am bringing in another 400W MH/HPS lamps which will allow for approximately 800W MH and 860W (2 x 430 HPS lamps) and creating a Mylar skinned enclosing that is twice the size of my current grow.Whew! Yeah, def leave that 1/3 horse for bigger jobs! Lol. I just imagined a small horse resting in my external res waiting to pump a little water to refresh my surface. Yeah, he'd be a little under-worked. Lol!
I can hardly wait to see how my advice is gonna improve your grow. Ha!
I hear you. But yeah, look into that topping automation. The consistent 'rhythm of feeding' it provides just means indestructible plants.Well it may not help this grow, I am done adding money to this grow and already am in the building stages for the next grow! I am bringing in another 400W MH/HPS lamps which will allow for approximately 800W MH and 860W (2 x 430 HPS lamps) and creating a Mylar skinned enclosing that is twice the size of my current grow.
I have added two 125F CFL bulbs to either side of the grow cage and added another pump into the side of the reservoir with no lines attached (creates a nice fountain of roaring bubbles inside) which I hope will give me some luscious roots.
regards,
Well I am lucky then i don't keep fishHaha funny thing is, I keep fish as a hobby as well, and people with fish tanks never buy such shitty air pumps.
I wonder if the aquatic air pump market realizes they're selling to growers mostly.
Subscribed, I should be getting a beautiful lemon skunk clone real soon today.
170 GALLONS!?!?!?
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA HA IF I EVER SEE A 170g TANK BEING RUN ON AIRSTONES, I WILL SLAP THE OWNER.
HAHAHAHAHA.