Flushing ??

djpipster

Active Member
Should u always flush ya plant..? I got 2 weeks left but been told 2 flush 4 a week after#?? True or bollox? Many thanx
 

Pat Man

Active Member
ya flushing several times throughout the grow is common. i usually flush as soon as i find out the sex or if it is feminized then i flush when i swtich to 12/12. Then ill flush once again 2 weeks before harvest, usually just watering with just water and no nutes till harvest after flush
 

bluemagicman

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I like to stop nutes 2 weeks before harvest and use straight water and molasses, really brings out the taste and get rids of excess chemicals in your smoke
 

woodsmaneh!

Well-Known Member
I put the summery first, It is also backed up by science links attached.


Summary:

Pre-harvest flushing puts the plant(s) under serious stress.
The plant has to deal with nutrient deficiencies in a very important part of its cycle. Strong changes in the amount of dissolved substances in the root-zone stress the roots, possibly to the point of direct physical damage to them. Many immobile elements are no more available for further metabolic processes. We are losing the fan leaves and damage will show likely on new growth as well.

The grower should react in an educated way to the plant needs. Excessive, deficient or unbalanced levels should be avoided regardless the nutrient source. Nutrient levels should be gradually adjusted to the lesser needs in later flowering. Stress factors should be limited as far as possible. If that is accomplished throughout the entire life cycle, there shouldn’t be any excessive nutrient compounds in the plants tissue. It doesn’t sound likely to the author that you can correct growing errors (significant lower mobile nutrient compound levels) with pre-harvest flushing.

For one thing, the most common way that growers flush their crops is by giving their crops water that has no nutrients in it. But this doesn't fully cleanse your crops. It only starves your plants so they lose vigorous floral growth and resin percentages just before harvest. Other growers use flushing formulas that generally consist of a few chemicals that sometimes have the ability to pull a limited amount of residues out of your plants.


Nutrient fundamentals and uptake:

Until recently it was common thought that all nutrients are absorbed by plant roots as ions of mineral elements. However in newer studies more and more evidence emerged that additionally plant roots are capable of taking up complex organic molecules like amino acids directly thus bypassing the mineralization process.

The major nutrient uptake processes are:

1) Active transport mechanism into root hairs (the plant has to put energy in it, ATP driven) which is selective to some degree. This is one way the plant (being immobile) can adjust to the environment.

2) Passive transport (diffusion) through symplast to endodermis.

http://www.biol.sc.edu/courses/bio102/f99-3637.html

The claim only ‘chemical’ ferted plants need to be flushed should be taken with a grain of salt. Organic and synthetic ferted plants take up mineral ions alike, probably to a different degree though. Many influences play key roles in the taste and flavour of the final bud, like the nutrition balance and strength throughout the entire life cycle of the plant, the drying and curing process and other environmental conditions.

3) Active transport mechanism of organic molecules into root hairs via endocytosis.

Here is a simplified overview of nutrient functions:

Nitrogen is needed to build chlorophyll, amino acids, and proteins. Phosphorus is necessary for photosynthesis and other growth processes. Potassium is utilized to form sugar and starch and to activate enzymes. Magnesium also plays a role in activating enzymes and is part of chlorophyll. Calcium is used during cell growth and division and is part of the cell wall. Sulphur is part of amino acids and proteins.

Plants also require trace elements, which include boron, chlorine, copper, iron, manganese, sodium, zinc, molybdenum, nickel, cobalt, and silicon.

Copper, iron, and manganese are used in photosynthesis. Molybdenum, nickel, and cobalt are necessary for the movement of nitrogen in the plant. Boron is important for reproduction, while chlorine stimulates root growth and development. Sodium benefits the movement of water within the plant and zinc is needed for enzymes and used in auxins (organic plant hormones). Finally, silicon helps to build tough cell walls for better heat and drought tolerance.

http://www.sidwell.edu

You can get an idea from this how closely all the essential elements are involved in the many metabolic processes within the plant, often relying on each other.

Nutrient movement and mobility inside the plant:

Besides endocytosis, there are two major pathways inside the plant, the xylem and the phloem. When water and minerals are absorbed by plant roots, these substances must be transported up to the plant's stems and leaves for photosynthesis and further metabolic processes. This upward transport happens in the xylem. While the xylem is able to transport organic compounds, the phloem is much more adapted to do so.

The organic compounds thus originating in the leaves have to be moved throughout the plant, upwards and downwards, to where they are needed. This transport happens in the phloem. Compounds that are moving through the phloem are mostly:
Sugars as sugary saps, organic nitrogen compounds (amino acids and amides, ureides and legumes), hormones and proteins.

http://www.sirinet.net

Not all nutrient compounds are movable within the plant.

1) N, P, K, Mg and S are considered mobile: they can move up and down the plant in both xylem and phloem.
Deficiency appears on old leaves first.

2) Ca, Fe, Zn, Mo, B, Cu, Mn are considered immobile: they only move up the plant in the xylem.
Deficiency appears on new leaves first.

http://generalhorticulture.tamu.edu

Storage organelles:

Salts and organic metabolites can be stored in storage organelles. The most important storage organelle is the vacuole, which can contribute up to 90% of the cell volume. The majority of compounds found in the vacuole are sugars, polysaccharides, organic acids and proteins though.

http://jeb.biologists.org.pdf

Trans-location:

Now that the basics are explained, we can take a look at the trans-location process. It should be already clear that only mobile elements can be trans located through the phloem. Immobile elements can’t be trans located and are not more available to the plant for further metabolic processes and new plant growth.

Since flushing (in theory) induces a nutrient deficiency in the root-zone, the translocation process aids in the plants survival. Trans-location is transportation of assimilates through the phloem from source (a net exporter of assimilate) to sink (a net importer of assimilate). Sources are mostly mature fan leaves and sinks are mostly apical meristems, lateral meristem, fruit, seed and developing leaves etc.

You can see this by the yellowing and later dying of the mature fan leaves from the second day on after flushing started. Developing leaves, bud leaves and calyxes don’t serve as sources, they are sinks. Changes in those plant parts are due to the deficient immobile elements which start to indicate on new growth first.

Unfortunately, several metabolic processes are unable to take place anymore since other elements needed are no longer available (the immobile ones). This includes processes where nitrogen and phosphorus, which have likely the most impact on taste, are involved.

For example nitrogen: usually plants use nitrogen to form plant proteins. Enzyme systems rapidly reduce nitrate-N (NO3-) to compounds that are used to build amino-nitrogen which is the basis for amino acids. Amino acids are building blocks for proteins; most of them are plant enzymes responsible for all the chemical changes important for plant growth.

Sulphur and calcium among others have major roles in production and activating of proteins, thereby decreasing nitrate within the plant. Excess nitrate within the plant may result from unbalanced nutrition rather than an excess of nitrogen.

http://muextension.missouri.edu

Summary:

Pre-harvest flushing puts the plant(s) under serious stress. The plant has to deal with nutrient deficiencies in a very important part of its cycle. Strong changes in the amount of dissolved substances in the root-zone stress the roots, possibly to the point of direct physical damage to them. Many immobile elements are no more available for further metabolic processes. We are losing the fan leaves and damage will show likely on new growth as well.

The grower should react in an educated way to the plant needs. Excessive, deficient or unbalanced levels should be avoided regardless the nutrient source. Nutrient levels should be gradually adjusted to the lesser needs in later flowering. Stress factors should be limited as far as possible. If that is accomplished throughout the entire life cycle, there shouldn’t be any excessive nutrient compounds in the plants tissue. It doesn’t sound likely to the author that you can correct growing errors (significant lower mobile nutrient compound levels) with pre-harvest flushing.

Drying and curing (when done right) on the other hand have proved (In many studies) to have a major impact on taste and flavour, by breaking down chlorophylls and converting starches into sugars. Most attributes blamed on un-flushed buds may be the result of unbalanced nutrition and/or over fertilization and improper drying/curing.
 

panhead

Well-Known Member
These threads on flushing are endless,half or better are troll posts,hopefully not this one.

Anyhow there are an endless number of threads on the topic with the usual fanboys exclaiming you have to flush or your weed will taste like chemicals,burn unclean,taste harsh ect ect ect,most hear this over & over then repeat it as fact.

Just know this fact before you fall for the hype,there is not, nor has there ever been one shread of scientific evidence, or any type proof proving these claims,infact its just the oposite.

The act of flushing is a relitively new pratice & a pratice that can be traced back to several nutrient company's who just so happen to sell costly chemicals to help you flush.

Unless you overfed the plants to their limit & beyond flushing only accomplishes less weight at harvest from stressing the shit out of the plant ,then starving it.

In properly conducted tests not one single smoker will ever be able to tell if its been flushed, or be able to point out any difference in taste,smell,buzz,harshness ect.

Flushing is a myth perpetuated mainly by growers who have been mislead into believing this pratice will help them but rest assured it is useless.
 

WTXgreenery

Active Member
then just flush it guy... i dont give a shit what anyone else does... it wasnt me who asked the question.. when people post asking a question, someone always has to get all pussy hurt bc they dont agree... if you dont want to use a chemical that stops the salt buildup, then by all means, dont fuckin use it... i do hydroponics and it makes my life easier... theres only one law in america when it comes to growing pot, and its DONT DO IT... seeing as that ones out the window here, go with what you feel!!
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
then just flush it guy... i dont give a shit what anyone else does... it wasnt me who asked the question.. when people post asking a question, someone always has to get all pussy hurt bc they dont agree... if you dont want to use a chemical that stops the salt buildup, then by all means, dont fuckin use it... i do hydroponics and it makes my life easier... theres only one law in america when it comes to growing pot, and its DONT DO IT... seeing as that ones out the window here, go with what you feel!!
Salt build up in hydro will only occur if you overfeed. If you monitor and adjust your res depending upon ppm's/EC's then a build up wont occur. Some nutes can be prone to pH fluctuations because the buffer isnt very good and this can have an effect on nutrient uptake which can cause plants to show def's and overfeeding signs.


I dont even flush when changing from veg nutes to flower nutes, i purge my res , removing as much veg nutes as i can then fill back up with flower nutes,


Flushing pre harvest is pointless, even in hydro or in soil. Why starve a plant at such a critical time when you want it to finish strong????? Sure reduce your feed strength ( i do ) but no need to cut out feed all together .


Learn some drying and curing processes, this will make the biggest differences to your smoke.





J
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
I'm kinda on the flushing is a myth side. I flush 2-3 days in hydro and then it can't hurt either way, this only drops it down to 200-300 ppm anyway because of the retained nutes in the medium. Some fairly experienced poeple have said if you are properly feeding then there isn't any need for it and you are just gonna starve it in the last week(s). If you are throwing monster bloom nutes like 2-45-28 on your plant, then you might want to do it for a short time. I'll stick with my 2-3 day rule with normal feeding.
Something to think about, when you flush pure h2o2 for an extended period, your fan leaves start to yellow which means its feeding on itself so the flowers are still getting nutrients, just not from the water so why would it really matter. if you really were flushing all the nutrients from the flowers, wouldn't they have to turn yellow too before they were free of nutrients? Just a common sense thought.


As soon as yellowing occurs from flushing your plant is stressed, period. Yes you are right when you say its feeding on itself. Why allow it to? The only reason people flush is because others do and have told them too.

I have been on both sides and have only found differences in final weight and smoke before curing, after curing you wouldn't be able to tell.


J
 

bamfrivet

Well-Known Member
So many myths about what you HAVE to do with your plants. Why do people think that having a yellow plant when they harvest is a good thing or normal? When you have an orange tree you don't flush it before you pick the oranges because you think it'll help the taste of the oranges do you?

Molasses doesn't make your bud sweeter!! I've seen like 6 posts about this today alone. Sugars don't travel up the roots, to the plant, into the bud and make it taste sweeter when you smoke it. That's the plants natural flavor being enhanced from giving the soil what it needs to give your plant what it needs. Molasses gives the organisms in your soil carbs, sugars and trace elements. In return those organisms help water/feed/protect your plants.
 

panhead

Well-Known Member
then just flush it guy... i dont give a shit what anyone else does... it wasnt me who asked the question.. when people post asking a question, someone always has to get all pussy hurt bc they dont agree... if you dont want to use a chemical that stops the salt buildup, then by all means, dont fuckin use it... i do hydroponics and it makes my life easier... theres only one law in america when it comes to growing pot, and its DONT DO IT... seeing as that ones out the window here, go with what you feel!!
Damm,i must be missing something ,was there a negative post i missed where somebody got all puss hurt ?

I thought everybody responded decent ???
 
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