pH and nute lock

CRAVETHERAVE

Active Member
Hello, i've never really looked at pH and nute-lock so i have a few questions.

My pH is 7! I no it should be around 6.2 - 6.5 a think, any ideas on lowering it?

What does nute lock look like? And how is it caused? How do you know when you have got nute-lock?

I've had a scan of the forums but can't seem to find anything conclusive really, thanks!
 

asaph

Well-Known Member
if your plants are healthy and green, with no visible damage on the leaves, then you don't have nute lock. if your plants are showing "burnt" leaves, twisting of leaves, yellow or black spots, etc., then you may have nute lock.

pH 7 in soil can pass, but 6.5 is better. if your plant is healthy, leave it be.
 

Teknique

Member
sorry to rez a dead thread, but can you be a little bit more specific Asaph? How is nutelock caused? I've been told it happens when you don't mix/let the nutes settle for 10-20 minutes before putting in B. For example, I put in A and B at the same time while mixing both: does this cause nutelock? (I've seen a video from a fantastic grower topping off his DWC bubbleponics system with water-nute mix, however he put in A and B one after the other). Any clarification on this will be much appreciated. :)
 

Motherhugger

Well-Known Member
Hello, i've never really looked at pH and nute-lock so i have a few questions.

My pH is 7! I no it should be around 6.2 - 6.5 a think, any ideas on lowering it?

What does nute lock look like? And how is it caused? How do you know when you have got nute-lock?

I've had a scan of the forums but can't seem to find anything conclusive really, thanks!
Here's a great tool for working on nute lock, though I admit that it sounds like if your plants are looking good then you're probably okay.

1) If the problem affects only the bottom or middle of the plant go to #2. b) If it affects only the top of the plant
or the growing tips, skip to #10. If the problem seems to affect the entire plant equally, skip to #6.
2) Leaves are a uniform yellow or light green; leaves die & drop; growth is slow. Leaf margins are not curled-up
noticeably. >> Nitrogen(N) deficiency. b) If not, go to #3.
3) Margins of the leaves are turned up, and the tips may be twisted. Leaves are yellowing (and may turn brown),
but the veins remain somewhat green. >> Magnesium (Mg) deficiency. b) If not, go to #4.
4) Leaves are browning or yellowing. Yellow, brown, or necrotic (dead) patches, especially around the edges of
the leaf, which may be curled. Plant may be too tall. >> Potassium (K) deficiency. b) If not, keep reading.
5) Leaves are dark green or red/purple. Stems and petioles may have purple & red on them. Leaves may turn
yellow or curl under. Leaf may drop easily. Growth may be slow and leaves may be small. >> Phosphorus(P)
deficiency. b) If not, go to #6.
6) Tips of leaves are yellow, brown, or dead. Plant otherwise looks healthy & green. Stems may be soft >> Overfertilization (especially N), over-watering, damaged roots, or insufficient soil aeration (use more sand or perlite.
Occasionally due to not enough N, P, or K. b) If not, go to #7.
7) Leaves are curled under like a ram's horn, and are dark green, gray, brown, or gold. >> Over-fertilization (too
much N). b) If not, go to #8…
8) The plant is wilted, even though the soil is moist. >> Over-fertilization, soggy soil, damaged roots, disease;
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copper deficiency (very unlikely). b) If not, go to #9.
9) Plants won't flower, even though they get 12 hours of darkness for over 2 weeks. >> The night period is not
completely dark. Too much nitrogen. Too much pruning or cloning. b) If not, go to #10...
10) Leaves are yellow or white, but the veins are mostly green. >> Iron (Fe) deficiency. b) If not, go to #11.
11) Leaves are light green or yellow beginning at the base, while the leaf margins remain green. Necrotic spots
may be between veins. Leaves are not twisted. >> Manganese (Mn) deficiency. b) If not, #12.
12) Leaves are twisted. Otherwise, pretty much like #11. >> Zinc (Zn) deficiency. b) If not, #13.
13) Leaves twist, then turn brown or die. >> The lights are too close to the plant. Rarely, a Calcium (Ca) or
Boron (B) deficiency. b) If not… You may just have a weak plant.
 

Izoc666

Well-Known Member
well you can prevent the nutes lockout is to know the NPK ratio....and if got ph problem , it could be buildups from salt or toxic from nutrients...once you got grasp of understand hows nutrient NPK and water works...I usually use my water tap is around 7.9 pH...and i use soilless (pre mix with lime) and never bother to check for pH if i got def issue, i simply flush it and re correct the NPK with nutrients after you read the plant s problem or needs. my soilless will be always around 7.5, still thriving...but 6.5 is ideal to intake nutrient real nice....

666
 

decrimCA

Active Member
Nice info motherhugger...and I have to agree with the rest of the folks here. If the plants are growing well, things are probably fine.

You don't want to jump the gun and do something you can't correct easily. Be patient and see what happens over the next few days. Things will probably be fine.
 
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