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ganja father
Member
nO FUK U
!!!!!!!
!!!!!!!
VictorVIcious
Well-Known Member
Michigan is the closest state to you that has a medical marihuana law, is moving an option for you?
What you are referring to is Rick Simpsons Oil and the recipe for making it is readily available, do a search for "Run from the cure". Unfortunately the Illinois Legislature has not passed a medical marihuana law. Contact Julie Falco at Illinois NORML to find out how you can get involved. VV
Hello all. I am back after about a month into my grow and I decided that after about 2 and a half weeks into my grow that I would move my plant outside because of odor purposes. I have a picture to post below of how my plant has been fairing since its been outside. I have used no nutrients besides the ones I used to make up my compost. No nutrients mixed with my watering or nothing like that. It seems as though the lower part of my plant is starting to grow small but extra branches if I am not mistaking. Any input on how I am doing would be great. When should I expect to see the sex of my plant. (No signs of seed sacks yet just new branches and small leaves).
SnakeInTheGrass42
Member
Yo 
Just sayin High! From GC, (bluntcheefah42). Expanding my horizons 
Just sayin High! From GC, (bluntcheefah42). Expanding my horizons 
RawBudzski
Well-Known Member
What is going on guys glad you're here with the RIU community.!!.
If you have any questions feel free to ask, hope to see some green from you all in the future. <3
If you have any questions feel free to ask, hope to see some green from you all in the future. <3twobrothers
Member
first time grower here..just wondering what people are using for nutrients in their hydro setup...and is switching bulbs gonna make a WHOLE LOTTA difference or just some?
xzackly
Member
I've been growing off and on for years. It's what I really love to do, and am not happy unless I have a few things simmering away discretely. As a fun first post, I thought I would post some pictures of 13 plants that I have recently taken in from my friend's backyard, and am rehabing them to eek out as much burn as possible. I'm limited in the available space I have in my primary garden: I maintain an 10 x 10 room, with 2000w HPS, and a 4 x 4 x 4 cube I built in one corner equipped with a 600w MH to veg. In this room I am growing 12 Afgooey plants in 5 gallon buckets, using Subcool's organic super soil method.
I live in a state that has a thriving medical community. One of my good friends is a really nice guy, but not the best botanist around. He also is dirt-farmer poor, and so he is often doing things the best he can vs. what should be done. He had a few too many clones in 1 gallon grow bags. They had been sitting on a bench in his backyard and were packed way too closely together. In addition, the plants were in some unidentified organic soil, but had never been fed anything other than plain water. The end result is a bunch of tall, fairly skinny ladies without a lot of developed undergrowth. These plants absurdly root bound. You could never tell by looking at them, but these plants were veged outside in direct southern exposure for two and a half months, and only achieved about 15 inches on average, with limited or no under-branching. Its bad advice to transplant a plant during flowering, so I decided to just let it ride on this front. To make the most of the top colas I was pretty aggressive in trimming back any yellowing or poorly placed foliage, as well as small bud sites low on the plant. The look promising now, but they just never produce enough in the end for me. Also by culling these we are directing energy to the top of the plant.
The plants have now been inside about 4 days, and I am working on getting them healthy. Although the plants have been budding outdoors for about two and a half weeks, plants don't bud as quickly outdoors because the days do not quickly change in length as dramatically as when one immediately switches from veging 24/7 or 18/6 to flowering at 12/12 or even 10/14.
So lets take a look at the set backs:
First, bad veging. The containers are just too small, and the plants were too tightly packed together. Ideally these would be in a container 2 to 3 times this large or bigger. Big roots = big buds. Also, they were never fed until a week in to flower, and then given a light feed of liquid guano. This is a little later than ideal, where you would want to get high phosphorous fetilizer in as soon as you started to flower.
Second, they're nutrient deficient. The Pacific NW has had an unusually rainy summer that has only recently turned warm. This means many nutrients, like heavy iron, and highly soluble magnesium have been flushed from the soil. Also, the plant is just sitting in stagnant mush, and this also sucks since roots love oxygen.
The plants are showing evidence of deficiencies by displaying symptoms of interveinal chlorosys- a lightening of the areas between veins on the leaves. In addition, many leaves are showing pale 'splotches' pointing to a slight manganese (Mn) deficiency, also new growth is pale which points to an iron deficiency (Fe). Most troubling is widespread pale leaves which are a strong indication of a magnesium (Mg) deficiency. Chlorophyll, is what makes plants green, and it is also plant 'blood' playing a central role in the hydraulic movement of water, nutrients, and enzymes throughout the plant. Human blood, hemoglobin, is bound centrally by an iron molecule. Human blood and plant blood are remarkably similar, made most distinct by this difference in iron vs. magnesium being the central element.
Yesterday was 8 days since their first and only feeding. First thing, I scratched about a teaspoon of agricultural lime in to the top three inches of soil. This is about .30 a pound at my local supply shop, and available in bulk. In organic gardens it breaks down slowly and help add acidity to soil.
My main fertilizer ingredient will continue to be bat guano, which I will liquefy myself with an immersion blender, also adding oxygen in the process. I will use varying amounts. This feeding will get about 1/4 cup per gallon. Bate guano is basic (on the base side of the pH scale), so the lime will help counter this if I choose feed aggressively. Bat guano is high in phosphorous, and rates at 0-5-0.
In addition, I will add about a 1/4 tsp of leonardite based humic acid per gallon of water, which is also acidic. Humic acids key ingredient is potassium hydroxide, and rates 0-0-10. Most importantly, it is packed with trace minerals and help build a strong soil. Humic acid is basically compost juice, and is available dry as well. I am using a dry form which is based on a type of coal. Humic acid doesn't need to be applied with every watering, and if I am the one potting a plant I generally just mix it in with the soil at a rate of about a tablespoon or two per 6 bags (yes, that little).
To address the general deficiencies I am going to use Botanicare CalMag+. It's a great supplement that can be used in small doses with every watering, and will flat out prevent just about any common deficiencies you will encounter, as long as you are using good soil. It's about $15 a qt., and is given at 1 - 2 tsp. per gallon.
And finally, the plants receive Advanced Nutrients Bud Candy. This is my one splurge for this grow at about $30.00 a liter, but aside from being a great source of magnesium it is also based from sugars derived from molasses. It gives you that sugary carbohydrate boost without the prunish dried fruit smells that it tends to lend your buds. I have to be careful with this application because I am already providing magnesium in the CalMag+ supplement, and by providing too much of one micronutrient I can cause deficiencies with others.
I am finishing these plants old skool style right in my bedroom next to my wifes side of the bed. The bedroom is air conditioned with a 5,000 BTU window unit directly across from the closet I am using. I use two box fans hanging from chains at the top of the closet door for airflow; one points in, one out. I am able to keep a canopy temperature of 71 degrees F, at a rH of 40%, and its nearly 100 degrees out tomorrow. The whole thing runs off a 600w digital ballast, a gull wing reflector, an old power strip and a $6 timer. I created a black plastic curtain with 3mm plastic from the hardware store, and 5 ft. of Velcro tape from the craft store. This in addition to the closets original white flexible curtain style door makes a great light proof barrier. I already owned the light, fans and power strip - so the whole set up cost me about $6.00. The chain that you see in the pictures is used to hang HVAC ducting, and I happened to have a roll of it from my main garden left over. Twine could be used instead.
Ill post pictures of my main garden soon. The plants are still vegetating until 9/15/11 at which point Ill throw them over. I land just under 3 lbs from 2000w every 8 weeks. I just might keep this closet thing going for a while for some trophy colas. J
I live in a state that has a thriving medical community. One of my good friends is a really nice guy, but not the best botanist around. He also is dirt-farmer poor, and so he is often doing things the best he can vs. what should be done. He had a few too many clones in 1 gallon grow bags. They had been sitting on a bench in his backyard and were packed way too closely together. In addition, the plants were in some unidentified organic soil, but had never been fed anything other than plain water. The end result is a bunch of tall, fairly skinny ladies without a lot of developed undergrowth. These plants absurdly root bound. You could never tell by looking at them, but these plants were veged outside in direct southern exposure for two and a half months, and only achieved about 15 inches on average, with limited or no under-branching. Its bad advice to transplant a plant during flowering, so I decided to just let it ride on this front. To make the most of the top colas I was pretty aggressive in trimming back any yellowing or poorly placed foliage, as well as small bud sites low on the plant. The look promising now, but they just never produce enough in the end for me. Also by culling these we are directing energy to the top of the plant.
The plants have now been inside about 4 days, and I am working on getting them healthy. Although the plants have been budding outdoors for about two and a half weeks, plants don't bud as quickly outdoors because the days do not quickly change in length as dramatically as when one immediately switches from veging 24/7 or 18/6 to flowering at 12/12 or even 10/14.
So lets take a look at the set backs:
First, bad veging. The containers are just too small, and the plants were too tightly packed together. Ideally these would be in a container 2 to 3 times this large or bigger. Big roots = big buds. Also, they were never fed until a week in to flower, and then given a light feed of liquid guano. This is a little later than ideal, where you would want to get high phosphorous fetilizer in as soon as you started to flower.
Second, they're nutrient deficient. The Pacific NW has had an unusually rainy summer that has only recently turned warm. This means many nutrients, like heavy iron, and highly soluble magnesium have been flushed from the soil. Also, the plant is just sitting in stagnant mush, and this also sucks since roots love oxygen.
The plants are showing evidence of deficiencies by displaying symptoms of interveinal chlorosys- a lightening of the areas between veins on the leaves. In addition, many leaves are showing pale 'splotches' pointing to a slight manganese (Mn) deficiency, also new growth is pale which points to an iron deficiency (Fe). Most troubling is widespread pale leaves which are a strong indication of a magnesium (Mg) deficiency. Chlorophyll, is what makes plants green, and it is also plant 'blood' playing a central role in the hydraulic movement of water, nutrients, and enzymes throughout the plant. Human blood, hemoglobin, is bound centrally by an iron molecule. Human blood and plant blood are remarkably similar, made most distinct by this difference in iron vs. magnesium being the central element.
Yesterday was 8 days since their first and only feeding. First thing, I scratched about a teaspoon of agricultural lime in to the top three inches of soil. This is about .30 a pound at my local supply shop, and available in bulk. In organic gardens it breaks down slowly and help add acidity to soil.
My main fertilizer ingredient will continue to be bat guano, which I will liquefy myself with an immersion blender, also adding oxygen in the process. I will use varying amounts. This feeding will get about 1/4 cup per gallon. Bate guano is basic (on the base side of the pH scale), so the lime will help counter this if I choose feed aggressively. Bat guano is high in phosphorous, and rates at 0-5-0.
In addition, I will add about a 1/4 tsp of leonardite based humic acid per gallon of water, which is also acidic. Humic acids key ingredient is potassium hydroxide, and rates 0-0-10. Most importantly, it is packed with trace minerals and help build a strong soil. Humic acid is basically compost juice, and is available dry as well. I am using a dry form which is based on a type of coal. Humic acid doesn't need to be applied with every watering, and if I am the one potting a plant I generally just mix it in with the soil at a rate of about a tablespoon or two per 6 bags (yes, that little).
To address the general deficiencies I am going to use Botanicare CalMag+. It's a great supplement that can be used in small doses with every watering, and will flat out prevent just about any common deficiencies you will encounter, as long as you are using good soil. It's about $15 a qt., and is given at 1 - 2 tsp. per gallon.
And finally, the plants receive Advanced Nutrients Bud Candy. This is my one splurge for this grow at about $30.00 a liter, but aside from being a great source of magnesium it is also based from sugars derived from molasses. It gives you that sugary carbohydrate boost without the prunish dried fruit smells that it tends to lend your buds. I have to be careful with this application because I am already providing magnesium in the CalMag+ supplement, and by providing too much of one micronutrient I can cause deficiencies with others.
I am finishing these plants old skool style right in my bedroom next to my wifes side of the bed. The bedroom is air conditioned with a 5,000 BTU window unit directly across from the closet I am using. I use two box fans hanging from chains at the top of the closet door for airflow; one points in, one out. I am able to keep a canopy temperature of 71 degrees F, at a rH of 40%, and its nearly 100 degrees out tomorrow. The whole thing runs off a 600w digital ballast, a gull wing reflector, an old power strip and a $6 timer. I created a black plastic curtain with 3mm plastic from the hardware store, and 5 ft. of Velcro tape from the craft store. This in addition to the closets original white flexible curtain style door makes a great light proof barrier. I already owned the light, fans and power strip - so the whole set up cost me about $6.00. The chain that you see in the pictures is used to hang HVAC ducting, and I happened to have a roll of it from my main garden left over. Twine could be used instead.
Ill post pictures of my main garden soon. The plants are still vegetating until 9/15/11 at which point Ill throw them over. I land just under 3 lbs from 2000w every 8 weeks. I just might keep this closet thing going for a while for some trophy colas. J
Attachments
Green Please
Active Member
xzackly
Member
It's all dependent on photoperiod. If they were veging inside before you put them out, expect about 10 to 14 days or so for anything definitive. Make sure you are using a good high phosphorous fertilizer to help them kick over in to budding faster and get better development! Make sure it gets as much light as possible and don't over water. As those small side branches you're noticing grow longer, you can tie them down and stake them to pull them away from the main body of the plant to help everything get better light. Good growing, and don't forget to flush your fertilizer at least two weeks with 4 times your contaiers volume in water. Enjoy!
Noods
Member
Hi everyone! I've been a lurker for a while (sorry if you hate lurkers, some of us do have our reasons, though) just trying to get smart and I have found a LOT of helpful info here. I hope I can figure out how to start a journal and post pics 'cuz I got an Easy Ryder seed in a glass getting hydrated right now and I'm putting it to soil as soon as I'm done here... Thanks for all the help in getting me smart RIU!!
Dorian Gray
Member
Hi I am new and I about to start My first grow. My first questions and they are many is about room odor how to get rid of it?
iamfishboy
Member
Hey guys,
First time grower in socal. Planted some sour grape seeds....thinned them down to 1-2 per solo cup...6 cups in total....with the awesome weather we've been having down by the beach 80-85f for 3 weeks now, the plants are doing very well. they are in the first set of "five leaves stage". As an ex commercial squid fisherman, i know a lot about HID lighting. So I have 3 plants under 400watt MH & 250 hps lights & 3 plants in the california sunshine. I guess there's no better way to learn then to see for yourself. Oh, a friend bought me a Blue Dream clone that is outdoors. (What do you know about blue dream?) I've had it 3 weeks and is already budding...I'll hit you guys back when I need help with pruning, lighting schedule, curing, etc...
First time grower in socal. Planted some sour grape seeds....thinned them down to 1-2 per solo cup...6 cups in total....with the awesome weather we've been having down by the beach 80-85f for 3 weeks now, the plants are doing very well. they are in the first set of "five leaves stage". As an ex commercial squid fisherman, i know a lot about HID lighting. So I have 3 plants under 400watt MH & 250 hps lights & 3 plants in the california sunshine. I guess there's no better way to learn then to see for yourself. Oh, a friend bought me a Blue Dream clone that is outdoors. (What do you know about blue dream?) I've had it 3 weeks and is already budding...I'll hit you guys back when I need help with pruning, lighting schedule, curing, etc...
jayco420
Active Member
YO all
I am working on my MMJ license. I live in AZ so disp. are slow in coming and the law alows for growing if not within 25 miles of one.
So as u can guess I am out of range. I have grown one time outdoors now trying my hand at indoors. My setup right now is
2'×2'
2- 5000k spec 100 watt eq. cfls 1750 lumens each
1- 2700 k spec 300 watt eq cfl 4200 lumens
3- 2700k spec t8 15 watt plant lights for the sides 500 lumens each
I am using MGbloom cause its what I have atm 1/4 soultion with 5 oz urin to 1 gal water sat out 24 hr
Limited space so think I will flower @ 12"
Cash is a prob. right now so using what I got on hand.
Room stays @ 80°f
Nice to meet u all
I am working on my MMJ license. I live in AZ so disp. are slow in coming and the law alows for growing if not within 25 miles of one.
So as u can guess I am out of range. I have grown one time outdoors now trying my hand at indoors. My setup right now is
2'×2'
2- 5000k spec 100 watt eq. cfls 1750 lumens each
1- 2700 k spec 300 watt eq cfl 4200 lumens
3- 2700k spec t8 15 watt plant lights for the sides 500 lumens each
I am using MGbloom cause its what I have atm 1/4 soultion with 5 oz urin to 1 gal water sat out 24 hr
Limited space so think I will flower @ 12"
Cash is a prob. right now so using what I got on hand.
Room stays @ 80°f
Nice to meet u all
Green Please
Active Member
why wont people post anything on threads that new people make?
Liveforeverordietrying
Well-Known Member
You don't get rid of weed odor, you learn to control it. Seal your grow room as good as possible is the step that I find most people skip. Next you need to have a good air exchange system, pumping stink and heat out, and bringing cool fresh CO2 rich air in. Be sure to have the exhaust tube where it won't be smelt or noticed, out the roof, tapped into the chimney, out a back wall into a hard to get to area, you get the idea.
Carbon filters are a good addition also, mount a can filter and run a circulation fan sucking air thru the filter, this helps cut down the smell, and you can use this fan as your dedicated fan needed to blow on your plants at all times to help cool them and strengthen the stalks.
Hope this helps, good luck and happy grows!
Carbon filters are a good addition also, mount a can filter and run a circulation fan sucking air thru the filter, this helps cut down the smell, and you can use this fan as your dedicated fan needed to blow on your plants at all times to help cool them and strengthen the stalks.
Hope this helps, good luck and happy grows!
