Good question, I think(off the top of my head here, would have to research further)that the 2 different processing methods are the reason un-sulphured is recommended as opposed to the sulpher content in itself.Pictures of what?? I love pictures...It's like an annual vs. perennial kinda thing but I'm pretty certain that with an annual weed like weed grown outside in GOOD dirt that you should not have to add anything for the first season, maybe even first couple of seasons.
Start with good soil and should you have any issues attributable to lacking nutrients then go from there. MY soil/compost comes fully loaded right off the lot!! It's got N in it and it has P and K in it as well. It's is also accessorized with micro nutes up the ying yang.
Sometimes your soil can have all it needs already in it but your PH levels can lock those nutrients up and make them unusable. PH can be a pain but I send of soil samples every few years to the county extension or to UMass. They will tell you what your dirt has or needs at NO cost. Well I did hear they were now charging $5.00 but they will tell you more than you will even need to know.
PS............ If Sulphur is a neccessary piece of the growing puzzle then why do they suggest UNsulphered molasses?? Never used it either way but FF's is that way. Any ideas?
In the bat room.Where do you find bat shit?
I started off with MG. I had no idea it supposedly has extended release, but I still ended up needing nutes. My smallest was eating its bottom leaves to make room for the top ones. This is my first indoor season ever.Pictures of what?? I love pictures...It's like an annual vs. perennial kinda thing but I'm pretty certain that with an annual weed like weed grown outside in GOOD dirt that you should not have to add anything for the first season, maybe even first couple of seasons.
Start with good soil and should you have any issues attributable to lacking nutrients then go from there. MY soil/compost comes fully loaded right off the lot!! It's got N in it and it has P and K in it as well. It's is also accessorized with micro nutes up the ying yang.
Sometimes your soil can have all it needs already in it but your PH levels can lock those nutrients up and make them unusable. PH can be a pain but I send of soil samples every few years to the county extension or to UMass. They will tell you what your dirt has or needs at NO cost. Well I did hear they were now charging $5.00 but they will tell you more than you will even need to know.
PS............ If Sulphur is a neccessary piece of the growing puzzle then why do they suggest UNsulphered molasses?? Never used it either way but FF's is that way. Any ideas?
You should email the Scott's Corp with this pic, they would probably hire you as an "unofficial" sales representative...j/k...looks good!this is done with MG soil and nutes its a short rider auto 3 and a half mths old
I'll be happy to remind you, am curious.I have 10 plants going right now, 1/2 in FF soil and 1/2 in MG. They are all about the same. When they're finished, I'll post any difference I find in taste and potency . They got about 6 weeks to go before harvest and, well, my memory ain't that good, so hope I remember!!
I'll take you up on that. This thread will be dead by then, but you can send me a PM. Figure 6 weeks of flower left, 2-3 weeks to dry/cure. I'd put up a pic, but they're lights out right now. I posted pics of them a couple,3.4 of weeks ago in the 600 watt club. Culled 8 males since then.I'll be happy to remind you, am curious.
Sounds good, red1966 is easy to remember...that's my birth year. Good luck with the grow!I'll take you up on that. This thread will be dead by then, but you can send me a PM. Figure 6 weeks of flower left, 2-3 weeks to dry/cure. I'd put up a pic, but they're lights out right now. I posted pics of them a couple,3.4 of weeks ago in the 600 watt club. Culled 8 males since then.