Starting up, but hit brick wall! *NEEDS ADVICE*

[thenoblefarmer]

Hello everyone! I've got a few questions for some of the experienced around here, and I've done my hours of research and aside from having everything I believe I need, I've hit a brick wall.

I'm going to give you guys a run down of what I'm working with


Tools:

• a 10x10x12 storage (l-w-h)
• Two windows in oppositional direction of each other

The frame for each is about one half of the image below
:

The plan is to use the two for intake/outake exhaust.
​

• milwaukee ph600 & ez test ppm meter
• 2 400w convertable MH/HPS lights
• 2 6" cool tubes
• 2 100W supplemental CFLS outputting 1750.0 lumens.
• 4" carbon filter/inline fan (fan pushes 170 CFM)
• 1 Galvanized Inductor 6" In-Line Duct Fan
• 6 Six-Four inch duct reducers

• Plenty 6 inch ducting
• A 1440 CFM Feature Comforts 12" 3-Speed Oscillating Fan.
• DWC Bubbler kit (not yet in use)

Resources:

• More than enough FFOF
• FF Dont Bug Me
• Grow Big-Tiger bloom-Big Bloom
• Beastie booms,cha-ching,open seasame
• Hygrozyme
• Earth Juice
• Flora Micro
• Advanced Nutrients Bud Candy
• Botanicare Cal-mag
• Dolomite Lime

(advice on what to use and what not throughout the process would help. A few I know are for flowering but which ones should not be combined/experimented/switched out with during veg and flower? Which ones are okay to use during seedling stage? Some of the stuff I purchased just to have around..like I'm not sure if the bud candy would be bad to use in combo w/ the beastie,open,and cha-ching)

By the way I'm not using FFOF for the seedlings just some organic worm casting rich dirt, fairly cheap and can be found at wal-mart. It's known as Terracyle Biodegradeable Seed Starter.




Works great, I can vouch for it, but it only has enough N for about 2 weeks before yellowing can be seen on leaves. I have 3 gal jiffy pots, 5 gal pots, and 10 gallon pots for transplanting.


As far as the electrical wiring, it runs on it's own breaker 15 amp, nothing else uses this breaker.
On average the way it is right now I'm recording temperatures. (no ventilation setup)

9/27/11=81°
9/28/11=79°
9/28/11=78°

There has been only two times this month where it was actually "cool" due to a cold front blowing in and that was on 9/16 and 9/18 where the temps recorded were 74° and 66° in the order listed. Way earlier in the summer the highest recorded was 92°.

Since summer is about over, I know ventilation is key to resolving, but what about for the winter months? Sure it's insulted but how cool is too cool? What should the temperatures not drop below? In my parts it can get as low as 40°-65°, I'm looking at 20° and below if it snows in January.


PH levels in water from the home is always reading out 7.1 and I calibrated it several times and it's usually 7.1-7.2 I know that PH needs to be kept between 6.5-6.8 at the most from what I've read.


I'm seeking advice on whether or not the 15 amps is good enough for what I've listed?

Not only that, but is it possible to use the the 1 4"inline fan w/ the carbon filter for not only air cooling my 2 cooltubes, but also to ventilate and carbon scrub the area? If so could someone explain how exactly am I to go about doing this? I'm hoping I didn't waste money on buying the 6" inductor and the 12" oscillating fan thinking it would help?

Any feedback would be very much appreciated!


PRIVACY NOTICE:
Warning--any person and/or institution and/or Agent and/or Agency of any governmental structure including but not limited to the United States Federal Government also using or monitoring/using this website or any of its associated websites, you do NOT have my permission to utilize any of my profile, thread, and or post information nor any of the content contained herein including, but not limited to my photos, and/ or the comments made about my photo's or any other "picture" art posted on my profile. You are hereby notified that you are strictly prohibited from disclosing, copying, distributing, disseminating, or taking any other action against me with regard to this profile and the contents herein. The foregoing prohibitions also apply to your employee(s), agent(s), student(s) or any personnel under your direction or control. The contents of this profile are private and legally privileged and confidential information, and the violation of my personal privacy is punishable by law.

 

[Bedroombeasters]

I was told that if you install the carbon filter before the lights you will end up with a black dusting all over your lights, something to think about. And as far as i read at night 60 is a good temperature for plants any lower and its a little stunting.

 

[bboybojo]

At the moment in my veg tent I have it setup:
air from outside room -> intake fan -> air inside room -> goes in cooltube one side -> other side of cooltube is ducted to a centrifugal extraction fan -> ducted to a fan silencer (outside of tent).
not sure if the silencer is set up properly, it isn't really an issue for me. Although when I set up the flowering tent, I will put the carbon filter after the extraction fan outside the tent, possibly ducted out somewhere else.
Basically the hot air from inside the room and the tube is sucked out and silenced (+ filtered). Not sure how other people do it, works for me.
This setup dropped my temps by ~8 deg C, I now have more problem with too cold a temperature.
Oscillating fan is good to shake the stems about. I had my intake fan directed on my plants but it was not great because it was too powerful.

 

[4tatude]

Hello everyone! I've got a few questions for some of the experienced around here, and I've done my hours of research and aside from having everything I believe I need, I've hit a brick wall.

I'm going to give you guys a run down of what I'm working with


Tools:

• a 10x10x12 storage (l-w-h)
• Two windows in oppositional direction of each other

The frame for each is about one half of the image below
:View attachment 1812737

The plan is to use the two for intake/outake exhaust.
​

• milwaukee ph600 & ez test ppm meter
• 2 400w convertable MH/HPS lights
• 2 6" cool tubes
• 2 100W supplemental CFLS outputting 1750.0 lumens.
• 4" carbon filter/inline fan (fan pushes 170 CFM)
• 1 Galvanized Inductor 6" In-Line Duct Fan
• 6 Six-Four inch duct reducers

View attachment 1812741

• Plenty 6 inch ducting
• A 1440 CFM Feature Comforts 12" 3-Speed Oscillating Fan.
• DWC Bubbler kit (not yet in use)

Resources:

• More than enough FFOF
• FF Dont Bug Me
• Grow Big-Tiger bloom-Big Bloom
• Beastie booms,cha-ching,open seasame
• Hygrozyme
• Earth Juice
• Flora Micro
• Advanced Nutrients Bud Candy
• Botanicare Cal-mag
• Dolomite Lime

(advice on what to use and what not throughout the process would help. A few I know are for flowering but which ones should not be combined/experimented/switched out with during veg and flower? Which ones are okay to use during seedling stage? Some of the stuff I purchased just to have around..like I'm not sure if the bud candy would be bad to use in combo w/ the beastie,open,and cha-ching)

By the way I'm not using FFOF for the seedlings just some organic worm casting rich dirt, fairly cheap and can be found at wal-mart. It's known as Terracyle Biodegradeable Seed Starter.

View attachment 1812753View attachment 1812754


Works great, I can vouch for it, but it only has enough N for about 2 weeks before yellowing can be seen on leaves. I have 3 gal jiffy pots, 5 gal pots, and 10 gallon pots for transplanting.


As far as the electrical wiring, it runs on it's own breaker 15 amp, nothing else uses this breaker.
On average the way it is right now I'm recording temperatures. (no ventilation setup)

9/27/11=81°
9/28/11=79°
9/28/11=78°

There has been only two times this month where it was actually "cool" due to a cold front blowing in and that was on 9/16 and 9/18 where the temps recorded were 74° and 66° in the order listed. Way earlier in the summer the highest recorded was 92°.

Since summer is about over, I know ventilation is key to resolving, but what about for the winter months? Sure it's insulted but how cool is too cool? What should the temperatures not drop below? In my parts it can get as low as 40°-65°, I'm looking at 20° and below if it snows in January.


PH levels in water from the home is always reading out 7.1 and I calibrated it several times and it's usually 7.1-7.2 I know that PH needs to be kept between 6.5-6.8 at the most from what I've read.


I'm seeking advice on whether or not the 15 amps is good enough for what I've listed?

Not only that, but is it possible to use the the 1 4"inline fan w/ the carbon filter for not only air cooling my 2 cooltubes, but also to ventilate and carbon scrub the area? If so could someone explain how exactly am I to go about doing this? I'm hoping I didn't waste money on buying the 6" inductor and the 12" oscillating fan thinking it would help?

Any feedback would be very much appreciated!


PRIVACY NOTICE:
Warning--any person and/or institution and/or Agent and/or Agency of any governmental structure including but not limited to the United States Federal Government also using or monitoring/using this website or any of its associated websites, you do NOT have my permission to utilize any of my profile, thread, and or post information nor any of the content contained herein including, but not limited to my photos, and/ or the comments made about my photo's or any other "picture" art posted on my profile. You are hereby notified that you are strictly prohibited from disclosing, copying, distributing, disseminating, or taking any other action against me with regard to this profile and the contents herein. The foregoing prohibitions also apply to your employee(s), agent(s), student(s) or any personnel under your direction or control. The contents of this profile are private and legally privileged and confidential information, and the violation of my personal privacy is punishable by law.

15amps will be fine
scrubber>cooltubes>fan>outside is propper way

I was told that if you install the carbon filter before the lights you will end up with a black dusting all over your lights, something to think about. And as far as i read at night 60 is a good temperature for plants any lower and its a little stunting.

not true... the carbon will not migrate, n 65 should be lowest temp... jmo

At the moment in my veg tent I have it setup:
air from outside room -> intake fan -> air inside room -> goes in cooltube one side -> other side of cooltube is ducted to a centrifugal extraction fan -> ducted to a fan silencer (outside of tent).
not sure if the silencer is set up properly, it isn't really an issue for me. Although when I set up the flowering tent, I will put the carbon filter after the extraction fan outside the tent, possibly ducted out somewhere else.
Basically the hot air from inside the room and the tube is sucked out and silenced (+ filtered). Not sure how other people do it, works for me.
This setup dropped my temps by ~8 deg C, I now have more problem with too cold a temperature.
Oscillating fan is good to shake the stems about. I had my intake fan directed on my plants but it was not great because it was too powerful.[/QUOTE
recomend scrubber 1st, its designed to pull through not pushed through, n if you push n have a air leak it will reek to high heven

 

[zvuv]

I'm seeking advice on whether or not the 15 amps is good enough for what I've listed?

No. I see about 3kW of lights. (The fans and other stuff don't add up to much). A 15A outlet on 110V can deliver a max of 1650W. For good operation and safety, the load on any single outlet should be less than it's max rating.

The breaker that supplies that outlet is probably limited to 25A which give you about 2750W. The steady load on a breaker needs to be substantially less than its max rating. 75% is as high as I would go. When equipment is turned there is a short lasting but heavy current draw. A 20A load on a 25A breaker is likely to trip it when you turn things on.

I think you need a 50A branch circuit with at least a couple of heavy duty (25A) outlets

 

[jondamon]

1x 170CFM fan for scrubbing and the 2 cooltubes???? REALLY NO!!!!!!!!!

I use 1x600w with a 400CFM inline fan, granted its a little overkill but i use a speed controller.

I would recommend you use at least 440CFM's for running your 2 cooltubes.


The best way to do it would be to rig up your existing 4" fan and filter combo so that they are attached to each other and exhaust this away from the grow location.

Then add the +440CFM fan to your 2 cooltubes and duct the lighting system straight through the grow room so that it has a seperate INTAKE with cool air and duct it out the grow room so that ZERO grow room air passes through the lighting rig.

Then use your 6" duct booster and have that as a POWERED INTAKE supplying fresh air to the grow room.



See Pic below.





J

 

[4tatude]

No. I see about 3kW of lights. (The fans and other stuff don't add up to much). A 15A outlet on 110V can deliver a max of 1650W. For good operation and safety, the load on any single outlet should be less than it's max rating.

The breaker that supplies that outlet is probably limited to 25A which give you about 2750W. The steady load on a breaker needs to be substantially less than its max rating. 75% is as high as I would go. When equipment is turned there is a short lasting but heavy current draw. A 20A load on a 25A breaker is likely to trip it when you turn things on.

I think you need a 50A branch circuit with at least a couple of heavy duty (25A) outlets

i only see 1000 watts 2-400s n 2- 100s, thats what i based my yes on. please showme where i missed the other wattage. i run 2 600s n their 6'' fan a air pump n a small 396gph pump off a 15 amp n have never had any problem at all. 50 amps imo is way overkill but im a plumber not an electrician n am open to learning... so there you have it...jmo
my edit was the pump almost forgot it

 

[thenoblefarmer]

@Jondamon thank you for your insight, it was very helpful, I imagine this will be the easiest route to go as I was also a little weary about 170 CFM being enough to support what I was asking of it. So if I'm not mistaken no matter how much CFM the fan is, there is NO WAY to use one and only one high velocity inline fan to handle both intake and exhaust? I imagine it's setup would be a little more complicated but never the less, I will definitely proceed w/ attaching the 4" w/ the filter but is it necessary to turn it on for vegging or is it only necessary for flowering? I'm starting at square 1.

Could you also weigh in on bboyjojo's post regarding using a centrifugal extraction fan?

 

[thenoblefarmer]

@ bboybojo, what kind of centrifrugal extraction fan? The standard bathroom kind or are we talking about the heavy duty kind that are the price of another high velocity inline fan?

 

[thenoblefarmer]

@ ZVUV I'm using 120V for the MH/HPS if it makes any difference. Would a 30A breaker help? Or what about adding additional circuit to the breaker box to either 15A or 30A?

 

[thenoblefarmer]

@4tatude

15amps will be fine
scrubber>cooltubes>fan>outside is propper way

Is there anyway you could elaborate on how exactly I can go about installing this? This is my 1st go so I'm guessing the scrubber works on its own and doesn't necessarily have to be attached to the inline fan?

 

[zvuv]

i only see 1000 watts 2-400s n 2- 100s, thats what i based my yes on. please showme where i missed the other wattage. ....

I was stoned. So sue me! Ok, ok... if you were going to build a 3kW system you would need a 50A branch.

Yeah, 15a at 110v is 1650W which should cover lights and fans etc. Since its probably being fed by a 25A breaker you have plenty of reserve for a current search.

 

[4tatude]

@4tatude

15amps will be fine
scrubber>cooltubes>fan>outside is propper way

Is there anyway you could elaborate on how exactly I can go about installing this? This is my 1st go so I'm guessing the scrubber works on its own and doesn't necessarily have to be attached to the inline fan?

here is an example. top left is carbon scrubber at top of room, this helps remove the heat and the smell when positioned this way. the ducting is hooked to hood from scrubber and attached using clamp to hold n seal. note in this case there are two hoods, you can cool single or multiple hoods this way. then the ducting goes from the hood to the fan, in this case a vortex 6'' in line that sits on top of tent. i set it on top for 2 reasons, 1 safety, i had a fan come loose n fall. luckily it only hit a plant n not my head, i ws working in the area at the time. 2 to keep as much heat as possable outside the tent. notice the speed controller next to the environmental controll unit? it is used to controll the fan speed so air movement can be controlled. growing is all about controlling the environment your plants live. hope this helps

 

[4tatude]

same type set up with single light. filter>light>fan>out
with both of these set ups intake is passive, meaning no other fan is required. when fan is running it creates a negative pressure in room which draws air from outside the tent through whatever venting is possable.

 

[bboybojo]

@ bboybojo, what kind of centrifrugal extraction fan? The standard bathroom kind or are we talking about the heavy duty kind that are the price of another high velocity inline fan?

I use a 6" centrifugal that looks designed for hydro setups, it is pretty powerful. expensive I suppose, but given the amount of kit you're using you want to be prepared. 4" seems pretty wussy for 2 cooltubes. At the moment I'm using a 6" inline intake. I also have an 8" one like that one you posted, but the 6" fits the tent easier, and is doing the job fine.
more air moving through means more CO2 -> more growth.

As 4tatude said, it is better to focus on extraction fans, as air will be passively drawn in anyway...

 

[jondamon]

Here is a link to my closet build.

https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/441212-my-new-closet-re-design.html


This design and setup cost around £1400. For everything including nutes etc.




J

 

[thenoblefarmer]

bump, thread requires more input. Any contribution for the nutes??

 

[jondamon]

I use CANNA AQUA FULL LINEUP





J