The Official House and Garden Thread
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Jozikins
Well-Known Member
MultiZen is a enzyme product so you can stop using hygrozyme. Using enzymes and microbe life in a hydroponics system, even a container-style hydroponics system like yours, can have huge draw backs. Although Mykos is not my first choice in mycorrhizae products, it is still effective, with a synthetic or organic formula (more active in organics.) What mycorrhizae do is produce enzymes, so you don't need to supplement. At least not any more than H&G recommends. You still don't need to do it at all though, if you have well established colonies (tough but not impossible to do when using a product with Phosphoric Acid in it, like H&G).
Adding too many synthetic enzymes to a hydroponic system that already has a form of enzyme can sometimes cause slime and root disease. You can avoid root disease and drastically improve root health by brewing your own organic tea! I highly recommend it, and really have fun with it too!
Here is a really simple one:
https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-dwc-root-slime-cure-aka-2.html
And here is one when you are ready to experiment and brew your own recipes like me:
http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2011/02/breeding-microbes-with-compost-tea/
Are you using your Roots Excelurator too? You should be, that stuff is some kind of wizardry. Temperature and over watering can also cause issues like this, as well as under watering, make sure your temperatures are in the appropriate range and constantly be checking the consistency of your medium and it's moisture level through out the day, and check it at least once during the middle of lights out, make sure your plants aren't drying out when they are asleep.
My favorite mycorrhizae product, by the way, is ZHO, and is extremely comparable to the Great White, and may be available to you. It is certainly more diverse than the Mykos product, which I believe is only 1 or 2 endo mycorrhizae species, while endo is all we need, more than 1 or 2 would be nice.
Yeah, NPK ratios are fucked on BioBizz, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Magnesium deficiencies non stop, and when I would juice them to fix the Mg def I would end up getting a Ca tox! Barrgh! The reps are really confident and cocky, and talked it up like this shit would never happen but it's been a constant struggle. The plants really prefer to be juiced to the max or further with the product, and it is far too outrageously priced for me to afford it. Plus, my last question about them being 100% organic and floralicious plus being the same thing as a non-organic certified BioHeaven, and the seem to be stumped, no email back yet.
Oh man, my brother shared some Purple Kush from the clinic with me last night, claiming it was sooo delicious. It tasted like my mouth was being washed out with soap, all I could taste is synthetic fertilizer and a cheap flushing agent that was used in the last 3 days, definitely not more. Busted out my organic Whiteberry and mopped the floor with that Purple Kush. My Whiteberry was more purple too!
What product are you currently using to get your organic fix?
10 days is taken into account. If you have a 9 week strain, you follow the 8 week feeding schedule and flush for the last week. You can push those extra 3 days out, or start your flush 3 days early. 14 day flush is always best, but always watch your plant health, you don't ever want to waste time/money nursing a long a plant that has stopped uptaking water/nutrients. I've pushed a few of my SFV way passed the harvest window lately, still came out amazing though.
Good luck on your harvest buddy, H&G provided me with an amazing harvest that caught 900 a qp at the dispensaries back in 2009 when you could get a price like that for A++ shit. It was my second harvest, my first harvest being my learning experience and complete garbage. But I've taught lots of people to do a A+ job their first time or better, you can do it bro.
raindog
Member
Hi again, I got a sweet deal on to 10L bottles of H&G Cocos and am thinking of using this in a flood and drain with smart pots filled with coco and perlite.
I believe cocos has more calcium and was intended for drain to waste??
Basically I'm watering with my nute solution 1 or 2 times a day and recirculating this back into the res. Can anyone help me determine if the Cocos will be OK for my set up. Thank you!
I believe cocos has more calcium and was intended for drain to waste??
Basically I'm watering with my nute solution 1 or 2 times a day and recirculating this back into the res. Can anyone help me determine if the Cocos will be OK for my set up. Thank you!
Jozikins
Well-Known Member
Never tried it but I haven't heard much complaints from those who have tried the same thing, you can always hit up the H&G reps on their website, they are pretty cool dudes. I used the Cocos in drain to waste with a soiless mix in normal pots and had screaming success for a long time.
I still have plenty of H&G left, and I'm about to do it up real big, so hopefully it's fresh enough for me to represent myself in a rocking journal. My new day job is killing me, and I just don't see a point in not growing like a mother fucker instead.
I still have plenty of H&G left, and I'm about to do it up real big, so hopefully it's fresh enough for me to represent myself in a rocking journal. My new day job is killing me, and I just don't see a point in not growing like a mother fucker instead.
raindog
Member
I'l give Rob a call. Thanks! My Jack Flash #5 are in week 5 of flower with tomorrow being the last day of Top Booster. 3 of the six plants hermed on me, caught um just in time, so I have 3 prospective mothers and dups in the veg tent. They are each totally different but from looking around I am 95% sure one is the archetypical sativa pheno. Interesting that from seed these plants changed their look several times. The sativa looking one only got thin leaves when she started to bud...I never knew. I'm giving TB using a 9 week schedule but feel I should have 'triggered" flowering earlier. A. They were already huge when I put them under the screen and B. These plants were deep in bloom when the HG schedule said to add TB. Shouldn't you add a bloom trigger early in bloom?? (Thanks in advance) Ha! Maybe I just never grew Grade A Dutch weed? Maybe they Are in early bloom Smells skunky but not super obvious (dirty sox). STICKY leaves esp on an Indica (I think) pheno.. Which "looks" much nicer than the sativa, ie all that snow and fat buds.
I am hand watering now twice a day just like with the ebb and flow. Hey three plants using 40 gal of nutes a week in a ebb and flow $$.... I'm thinking about Drip and drain to waste next run. Although when I fill the 4x4 tray with nine plants in smart pots (coco) I would actually use about 25% more nutes using drain to waste.
Any thoughts on when to use top booster with individual plant considerations in mind?
Exciting times! Very happy with HG!
I am hand watering now twice a day just like with the ebb and flow. Hey three plants using 40 gal of nutes a week in a ebb and flow $$.... I'm thinking about Drip and drain to waste next run. Although when I fill the 4x4 tray with nine plants in smart pots (coco) I would actually use about 25% more nutes using drain to waste.
Any thoughts on when to use top booster with individual plant considerations in mind?
Exciting times! Very happy with HG!
raindog
Member
Anyone know know what this is? This began in early 12/12 effecting the upper fan leaves close to the cola. I added extra cal mag and the problem never worsened and the buds themselves look fine.
This is only effecting one plant but this plant is closest to the center so maybe the light is too strong?? I think it's either Mg or P deficiency. I am doing the full House and Garden
schedule so maybe some sort of lockout due to PH??
Here's a pic of two leaves. Thanks mucho!
This is only effecting one plant but this plant is closest to the center so maybe the light is too strong?? I think it's either Mg or P deficiency. I am doing the full House and Garden
schedule so maybe some sort of lockout due to PH??Here's a pic of two leaves. Thanks mucho!
BeaverHuntr
Well-Known Member
I'm using Cocos and the full line with coco chips from General Hydro, just try and do a res change every 5 days.
Is it normal to get a PH drop.. Every day my PH drops to about 4.8 I set it to 5.9 everyday.
pooper
Well-Known Member
are you a HG rep??
Jozikins
Well-Known Member
Are you using nutrients bought online or in the store? Older nutrients lose their pH balance very quickly when put into a solution. A fresh bottle of product that was potted only a few months ago should be fresh smelling, the pH should settle very quickly, and it should be a solid 5.9, never drifting below 5.4 until a few days have passed by, and even then, I've gotten it to maintain for much longer. However, Aqua Flakes does do a better job of maintaining pH in a hydro system. Anyone using Coco can use Aqua Flakes in a hydro system, I'm sure the only necessary changes would be to add another flush or rinse 1 or more times a week.
Nutrients bought online are usually sitting in a warehouse, and it is bought in huge bulk numbers to get a reasonable price on it, so they can low ball it well below MSRP online. This means products can be sitting from anywhere between a week and a whole year! Could be even more than a year! I work in a warehouse, we distribute electronics and are owned by a major store front retailer, and let me tell you, every day I go home with a thick grey coating of dust, head to toe, from TV's that have been in there since April. The nice thing about our warehouse is that it is totally A/C to a nice comfortable 70 degrees year around, but many warehouses do not do that at all. It is absolutely necessary to keep nutrients in a dark, cool, dry location, free of HID lights, relatively low heat, and freezing cold. I cannot stress that enough, this means a warehouse is a shitty environment for long term storage, just like your grow room! Do not store your fertilizers under light in your grow room, do not store them at all if your grow is always around 85!
So if you are buying nutrients online, you may be saving a few bucks on the cheapest part; the nutrients, but you are losing money in yield, and pH buffers, not only that, but your very valuable time! As gardeners, our yields are often supplementary income to offset grow expenses and pay for our utilities entirely, and hell, maybe a car payment when things at your real job are tough, and cannabis grows on a calender, so time = money. Every moment you are fixing your nutrient solution and not expanding your garden or networking with dispensaries and collective, that is time and money lost. In the 30 minutes a night you adjust your solution, you could be making up a solution for a micro test grow that could have given you a extra 1/2lb - 1lb extra this crop. Maybe more!
If you buy your nutrients in the stores, do not be afraid to pry and try to find out how old that product is, how long has it been there. Sometimes you can even find a manufacturing date printed on the bottle. Successful hydro shops have a constant stream of products going in and out, but sometimes shops are too small and they fail to have anything that anyone needs, and the products just sit for months on into years, while some giant hydroponic super stores who rent out a very small warehouse as a giant shop will have too much products, and product that sits on the upper shelves could be there for too long. Like I said, this is one of the cheapest, but most important elements in your garden, be very careful and very snobby when selecting your products. Find your brand name, then find the freshest batch. You'll find that not just H&G, but all fertilizer products work sooooooooo much better when they are fresh off the tap.
Hello everyone the other day I purchased Coco A and B, Magic green, Multizen, Roots excel, top booster, bud xl and shooting powder. Right now all my babies are happy and rooting 16 oz cups.I'm stoked to have a new brand and I'm looking forward to share what I find. The one thing I haven't been able to confirm is...with the Coco formula and tap water at 124ppm should I be using cal mag? also I got some Humboldt Nutrients fulvic and humic acid left over any downside using those with House and Garden?I learned so much from this thread I thank everyone who posts here.
Thedillestpickle
Well-Known Member
Im basically doing the exact same thing as this, Im using coco with HG cocos AB and tap water(distilled overnight) with 120ppm. Im not using Cal/Mag but I thought I read somewhere that HG has all the Cal/Mag in the base nutes? Ive just been watering until there is a good amount of runoff from the pot and thats all ive been doing. Do I have to flush the coco with Ph water every so often or just keep doing what Im doing? Im not using drip clean either, but Im just following the advice of the hydro store and I do question if they dont just talk bullshit everytime Im in there.
I am not staying strict to the HG nutes line, I have the Base nutes and roots excelerator, but Im using this alongside another brands Fulvic and Humic acids.
I think Next time around Ill just go 100% house and garden, this is my first grow though so Im just learning as I go.
I just started a Blue Mystic grow using H&G products. I was using some Botanicare supplements, but decided to just use the H&G line. The H&G nutrients seem a little strong and I'm still learning how much to use without burning the plants.
If any H&G pro's want to stop by and check out my thread and offer any advice it would be much appreciated!
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/487154-blue-mystic-house-garden-600-a.html
Thanks, Qwisty
If any H&G pro's want to stop by and check out my thread and offer any advice it would be much appreciated!
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/487154-blue-mystic-house-garden-600-a.html
Thanks, Qwisty
Looks nice Qwisty I might get a camera and do a journal myself.
Cheers fellows, decided to grow strictly HG this round. Aqua A/B, drip clean, Roots Ex., Amino T, Multi Zen, and Cal Mag. BudXL, Top Booster to follow.
There are 4 girls (1x pre98 bubba, and 3x crosses from the '98, at least that is what they are supposed to be ha), they look identical at this point, not so much during veg though lol. They are 17 days 12/12. Their growth rate has been great, actually had to shorten veg time and temporarily throw a screen on to hold them back a bit.
So far I am very pleased with their nute soup.
Some pics:
There are 4 girls (1x pre98 bubba, and 3x crosses from the '98, at least that is what they are supposed to be ha), they look identical at this point, not so much during veg though lol. They are 17 days 12/12. Their growth rate has been great, actually had to shorten veg time and temporarily throw a screen on to hold them back a bit.
So far I am very pleased with their nute soup.
Some pics:
I like H and G but as I have said in the past..it has too much N for most strains. Pot isnt supposed to be green all the way through to harvest..thats a ton of chlorophyll left it the plant and can make some strains taste like shiat. Im boggled they came out with a N booster rather then a cal/mag supplement..I always have to dose it with some kinda cal/mag booster mid / late flowering. I tried cutting back the A but that seems like a half assed solution, I might try switching to AN after week 4 but then i would be missing out on using shooting powder..oh the drama... On a side note I found one or 2 doses of big bud in week 2,3 sometimes 4 make a noticeable difference in yield.
Peace LM
Peace LM
a mongo frog
Well-Known Member
do u still add the bud xl along with big bud?
Thedillestpickle
Well-Known Member
Im in my first grow so Im not sure what to think, but I am at 950ppm at week four of veg from seed and I think Im seeing N defiency. At the same time I see minor burns on the leaf tips so I think Im getting burns from other nutes other than the N, and I want to bring up my ppm because of the low N, but I cant do that because Ill burn them with all the extra P and K. It does seem kindof strange that H&G would try to have a veg and bloom all in one, rather than two seperate blends for each phase. Either way your making a compromise in the proper NPK ratio. Ive been thinking of using a different A:B ratio but thats not something I shoudl have to do, they should have the right mix figured out alraedy for me. I might just switch to a different company. something with veg specific nutes and flower specific nutes, with no compromise. I dont want my cured buds to taste like grass, and I dont want my vegging plants to be deficient
no..just big bud for the first 3 or 4 weeks of flower..small doses..no need to go crazy. Then stop using big bud and start using bud XL according to their guide. I know Im vague on weeks but it really is strain dependent. Big bud is potent stuff so be careful and watch your PPMs and PH almost as closely as you would with shooting powder. Remember your just trying to GENTLY NUDGE some xtra early flower growth which later turns into some xtra bud ...I think big bud swells flowers allot earlier and bigger through the early to mid weeks of flower then bud XL does. Im not talking epic amounts here but more then enough to justify the costs of the big bud. I would say it adds between 10 to 20 dry grams of good dry bud to my 600 hps 4ft x 4ft foot crop. I grow in 2 parts promix HP and 1 part perlite so i use their soil mix..I have NFC about hydro. I dont follow the chart exactly, i feed them as much as they need and pushem when i can but i follow the chart basics.
Its incredible how well pot grows with H and G ..Its so effing healthy but it will need some cal/mag at some point but then again all the major manufacturers need a cal / mag booster.
Any more questions just lemme know, G
a mongo frog
Well-Known Member
do u use multi z during weeks 1-3 still? and my biggest thing, do u magic green late into flower. also have u quit using excellerator yet and use GH new rooting enhancer? do u use sweet? have u used pro tec silicate in your mix yet?