NYLUVBUDDY
Member
I'm a newbie and this is my fifth lady, and she's turning for the worst.......plz HELP
Lady sour diesel in trouble, plz HELP!!!!
- Thread starter NYLUVBUDDY
- Start date
Cannabisculture
Active Member
need pics and info man.
NYLUVBUDDY
Member
Can't post pic, I'm using an iPhone but the leaves are drying and curling and the leaves on the top are like a brownish gray. I purchased this clone on oct 29 and it was already budding but don't know how long it's been in flowering stage. I don't have nutes for blooming except Bud Candy, Thrive Alive B-1, Sensizym, Big Bud, Voodoo Juice and FloraNova Grow. Funds are low so is there one of these I can use til I get the right nutes??? Plz help.....I'm losing my mind with this and is there an easy way to grow meds, I'm using DWC with an air stone
NYLUVBUDDY
Member
O and I have so CaMg+
Cannabisculture
Active Member
First off, Thrive Alive B-1 CANNOT be used in flower! It causes hermies 90% of the time. use only for clones and veg
It sounds to me like you have either a toxicity or fungal/bacterial infection
What is your feeding schedule and what do your roots look like?
It sounds to me like you have either a toxicity or fungal/bacterial infection
What is your feeding schedule and what do your roots look like?
Cannabisculture
Active Member
You started off with hydro which is a newbie mistake. Always start with soil then work your way into the more complex growing methods. Organic is simple, put the nutes in the soil and water with reg water unless you wanna add some molasses(BudCandy) or a guano tea ect..
BTW BudCandy is just a really expensive form of molasses. Get Blackstrap molasses 4$ once you use up that BudCandy
BTW BudCandy is just a really expensive form of molasses. Get Blackstrap molasses 4$ once you use up that BudCandy
Pimpernickel
Well-Known Member
Just start over from veg.
I think hydro is fine for beginners, the lag between the deficiencies/problems showing up and when they were caused was misleading to me as a new grower. With my RDWC system if there's a problem I know right away and can correct it right away.
I think hydro is fine for beginners, the lag between the deficiencies/problems showing up and when they were caused was misleading to me as a new grower. With my RDWC system if there's a problem I know right away and can correct it right away.
NYLUVBUDDY
Member
I finally got pic uploaded the 1st is of problem the second is before problem and the last is roots. Yesterday I changed rez and used big bud, bud candy, sensizym, and voodoo juice and ph is 5.7. I change them every Sunday. I also have a permafrost and she (hopefully) is just fine.
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Motorbuds
Well-Known Member
Don't use molasses for DWC unless you want foam and/or slime all over everything.
We need a little more light on those pics, you can't really see much.
NYLUVBUDDY
Member
So don't use bud candy??
ismokealotofpot
New Member
No bud candy. Why are your roots all bunched up in a block? If your a newbie you should start in soil. Something without fertilizer in it. I think you need to break up your roots just a little bit so it can grow into the rocks. I know a guy growing in a bubble bucket and his roots are like 3 feet long. He has to cut them off because they get so big.
NYLUVBUDDY
Member
Anyone in the Benton harbor/St. Joe area I reallllllllllllllly need help!!!!
NYLUVBUDDY
Member
So what can I do??? And spider mites????? There's nothing moving, I'm confused
snowbud4
Well-Known Member
is this an experiment? if it is I understand but why would you spend your time growing such a small plant. cut and dried you might get 3 grams under best circumstances and you spend at least 2 months flowering. now you ask yourself was it really worth it? I enjoy the fact that your growing because I am always trying to teach and encourage new growers but is all your work worth less than an 8th?
you got a clone that was already budding? wtf?
ismokealotofpot
New Member
It looks burned. Break up the root mass a little and be real gentle wash your hands first, you want it growing into the rocks. Stop washing the stones let the roots grow into them. You want them hanging down from the basket.If your pot doesn't have a shit ton of holes in it you need one asap!
ismokealotofpot
New Member
I think if your flowering now your screwed unless you can re-veg(switch back to 24 hours of light and give it a good all purpose food). It should grow a lot of branches if it works.That root ball is killing you.
Samwell Seed Well
Well-Known Member
you should not be able to separate the root ball from the hydrotons stones and the DWC container, bucket, whateever should be filled with close to white or white roots, you have a lot going wrong, and i think if would be easier for you to start over, and say use the lucas formula, proven easy cheap and productive
get some drip clean a salt mitigater so nutrient lockout is harder to happen, when a bad combination of nutrients which are salts(minerals) is in your mix, one nutrient or a few might now be all used and cause lock out, and thats what you rs looks like, not growing not really dying just locked out, and if it happens long enough if iwll be dead
if you really want to save it, run 5.4 to 5.8 ph'ed water in your system with drip clean from a day then using the lucas formula at 250ppm and gradually over days increase to 500, it is widely know but to me it is only a technique i know of and never used but if you search around for it you will find a lot of people use it and get results.
but in my opinion that plant is toast, powdered toast man(hehe)
or just dyna grow or total grow a number of people swear by these simple one part formulas . . . . .
get some drip clean a salt mitigater so nutrient lockout is harder to happen, when a bad combination of nutrients which are salts(minerals) is in your mix, one nutrient or a few might now be all used and cause lock out, and thats what you rs looks like, not growing not really dying just locked out, and if it happens long enough if iwll be dead
if you really want to save it, run 5.4 to 5.8 ph'ed water in your system with drip clean from a day then using the lucas formula at 250ppm and gradually over days increase to 500, it is widely know but to me it is only a technique i know of and never used but if you search around for it you will find a lot of people use it and get results.
but in my opinion that plant is toast, powdered toast man(hehe)
or just dyna grow or total grow a number of people swear by these simple one part formulas . . . . .
Samwell Seed Well
Well-Known Member
lucas formula General Hydroponics Flora Series Feeding Strategy - Lucas Formula
-
G-M-B (Grow-Micro-Bloom)
0-5-10 - For Vegetative cycle (18/6)
0-8-16 - For Flowering cycle (12/12)
The numbers above indicate the number of milliliters (ml) of Flora Grow, Micro or Bloom formulas that I use in one gallon (US Liquid) of nutrients.
You will notice I dont use any of the Flora “Grow” formula, do not need to, the Flora "Micro" provides plenty of Nitrogen.
There are two ways to work with this formula:
1. Top off the reservoir daily using a pH corrected water solution as required to maintain full reservoir level. After adding back an amount of water equal to the amount of your reservoir capacity you should change the reservoir and put in fresh solution.
2. Top off the reservoir daily using a pH corrected 100% strength nutrient solution as required to maintain full reservoir level. Continue to use this nutrient solution without dumping the tank unless the PPM rises above acceptable levels.
Between vegetative and flowering cycles you should dump your nutrients, then flush (possibly with Clearex) to remove salt buildups, then change to the other feeding program. Always shake your GH nutrient bottles before using them!
For young plants, just transplanted into the hydro setup, give them 50% strength nutrient mix to prevent overfeeding them while their young. Gradually bring up the mix to full strength as they grow over the next few weeks or so.
The lucas formula is normally intended for use with RO or near 0 PPM water.
NOTE: The Lucas formula eliminates the need for Epsom salts to correct (Magnesium) Mg deficiencies in most normal feeding programs recommended by manufacturers. Cannabis needs a lot of Magnesium to thrive.
The Flora Micro is providing the Nitrogen and the Magnesium in the proper balance, thus there is no need for the Grow formula and little or no room under the maximum acceptable ppm limit of 1600 @ 0.7 conversion.
Calculated EC/TDS levels:
EC microsiemen:
0-4-8: 946 µS
0-5-10: 1184 µS
0-8-16: 1894 µS
TDS @ 0.5 conversion:
0-4-8 = 473 ppm
0-5-10 = 592 ppm
0-8-16 = 947 ppm
TDS @ 0.7 conversion:
0-4-8 = 663 ppm
0-5-10 = 829 ppm
0-8-16 = 1326 ppm
Addback Calculator - (For Advanced Users)
Say you were running the 0-8-16 formula, at 0.7 conversion with a 22 gallon res. When you first fill it up, your ppm will be around 1330.
Now you have been growing for a week, and some of the water has been taken up by the plants, some has evaporated, and now your res is at 947 ppm. You need to get your ppm from 947 to 1330. Here is the equation:
((target - current) / target) * 8 ml per gallon * res gallons = Flora Micro (ml) double this figure to get Flora Bloom (ml)
Example:
((1330 - 947) / 1330) * 8 * 22
(383 / 1330) * 8 * 22
0.3 * 8 * 22 = 53 ml Flora Micro
53 ml Flora Micro, double that and you get 106 ml Flora Bloom. So 53 ml Flora Micro and 106 ml Flora Bloom to add back to your 22 gallon res to get you from 947 to 1330.
Using Hard Water GH Micro
I had been experimenting with using the Hard water Micro as a substitute for the normal Flora Micro, this to account for my hard 350 PPM water and the lack of a large enough RO filter at the time. It has worked well for me. I just kept my reservoir below 1150 PPM @ .5 conversion and its all good.
One tip - do not pH down this stuff, the hard water micro will drop pH gradually over the next 24 hours, for example I mix up a batch, it is at like 6.2, the next day, its at 5.6-5.8 after running in the system for a while. If I pH downed that to 5.7 before putting it in the system, it ended up as low as 4.8-5.2 by the next day.
My conclusion, the hard water micro was buffering the alkaline crud in my water, it just doesnot do it ASAP fast like the phosphoric acid.
-
enjoy
-
G-M-B (Grow-Micro-Bloom)
0-5-10 - For Vegetative cycle (18/6)
0-8-16 - For Flowering cycle (12/12)
The numbers above indicate the number of milliliters (ml) of Flora Grow, Micro or Bloom formulas that I use in one gallon (US Liquid) of nutrients.
You will notice I dont use any of the Flora “Grow” formula, do not need to, the Flora "Micro" provides plenty of Nitrogen.
There are two ways to work with this formula:
1. Top off the reservoir daily using a pH corrected water solution as required to maintain full reservoir level. After adding back an amount of water equal to the amount of your reservoir capacity you should change the reservoir and put in fresh solution.
2. Top off the reservoir daily using a pH corrected 100% strength nutrient solution as required to maintain full reservoir level. Continue to use this nutrient solution without dumping the tank unless the PPM rises above acceptable levels.
Between vegetative and flowering cycles you should dump your nutrients, then flush (possibly with Clearex) to remove salt buildups, then change to the other feeding program. Always shake your GH nutrient bottles before using them!
For young plants, just transplanted into the hydro setup, give them 50% strength nutrient mix to prevent overfeeding them while their young. Gradually bring up the mix to full strength as they grow over the next few weeks or so.
The lucas formula is normally intended for use with RO or near 0 PPM water.
NOTE: The Lucas formula eliminates the need for Epsom salts to correct (Magnesium) Mg deficiencies in most normal feeding programs recommended by manufacturers. Cannabis needs a lot of Magnesium to thrive.
The Flora Micro is providing the Nitrogen and the Magnesium in the proper balance, thus there is no need for the Grow formula and little or no room under the maximum acceptable ppm limit of 1600 @ 0.7 conversion.
Calculated EC/TDS levels:
EC microsiemen:
0-4-8: 946 µS
0-5-10: 1184 µS
0-8-16: 1894 µS
TDS @ 0.5 conversion:
0-4-8 = 473 ppm
0-5-10 = 592 ppm
0-8-16 = 947 ppm
TDS @ 0.7 conversion:
0-4-8 = 663 ppm
0-5-10 = 829 ppm
0-8-16 = 1326 ppm
Addback Calculator - (For Advanced Users)
Say you were running the 0-8-16 formula, at 0.7 conversion with a 22 gallon res. When you first fill it up, your ppm will be around 1330.
Now you have been growing for a week, and some of the water has been taken up by the plants, some has evaporated, and now your res is at 947 ppm. You need to get your ppm from 947 to 1330. Here is the equation:
((target - current) / target) * 8 ml per gallon * res gallons = Flora Micro (ml) double this figure to get Flora Bloom (ml)
Example:
((1330 - 947) / 1330) * 8 * 22
(383 / 1330) * 8 * 22
0.3 * 8 * 22 = 53 ml Flora Micro
53 ml Flora Micro, double that and you get 106 ml Flora Bloom. So 53 ml Flora Micro and 106 ml Flora Bloom to add back to your 22 gallon res to get you from 947 to 1330.
Using Hard Water GH Micro
I had been experimenting with using the Hard water Micro as a substitute for the normal Flora Micro, this to account for my hard 350 PPM water and the lack of a large enough RO filter at the time. It has worked well for me. I just kept my reservoir below 1150 PPM @ .5 conversion and its all good.
One tip - do not pH down this stuff, the hard water micro will drop pH gradually over the next 24 hours, for example I mix up a batch, it is at like 6.2, the next day, its at 5.6-5.8 after running in the system for a while. If I pH downed that to 5.7 before putting it in the system, it ended up as low as 4.8-5.2 by the next day.
My conclusion, the hard water micro was buffering the alkaline crud in my water, it just doesnot do it ASAP fast like the phosphoric acid.
-
enjoy