Organic Gnat Control

I found this on the internet when I was having a gnat problem in the house...

Get a small bottle (water works fine) and pour a small amount of Apple Cider Vinegar in it.
Make a small paper funnel 1-2" tall and slightly smaller at small end than bottle opening.
Give it a shake and place where gnats are.
Im not sure but you could probably use beer or apple/fruit rinds as well

For entertainment you can count the little dead gnat bodies in the bottle... Change fluid out when it gets gross...
 

Biological Graffity

Active Member
...I have tons of those lil fuckers, I got lady bugs comming for mite control/prevention, (not real problem yet and trying to keep it that way) I wonder if they also eat gnats or their larvae?any othyer effecctive forms of gnat control?
 

doc111

Well-Known Member
I've tried the Apple Cider Vinegar traps and they worked, just not all that great. If you are serious about getting rid of fungus gnats, and don't want to use sand or any other messy or possibly toxic remedies? Gnatrol and SM90 used together works better than any other remedy I've ever used. Gnatrol is OMRI certified but I don't think SM90 is. I think it's all natural though. I tried the Gnatrol by itself which reduced the numbers of gnats, but it just wasn't delivering the knockout blow. The hydro shop I use recommended the use of a wetting agent with the Gnatrol for maximum effect and since I already had some SM90 I used it. the addition of SM90 was the key! After adding it I quickly saw the fungus gnats all but disappear. Gnatrol is pretty expensive but well worth it IMO.:weed:
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
This last grow I combined: Predatory Nematodes, Neem meal, DE, and crab shell meal. Each of these does a specific task, and this multidisciplinary approach works very well. I have avoided heavier chemicals, regardless of OMRI certification.
 

doc111

Well-Known Member
This last grow I combined: Predatory Nematodes, Neem meal, DE, and crab shell meal. Each of these does a specific task, and this multidisciplinary approach works very well. I have avoided heavier chemicals, regardless of OMRI certification.
Gnatrol isn't a chemical. It's Bacillus Thuringiensis Israelis, a soil dwelling bacteria used for control of mosquito larvae in water. It works with a number of other species of insect, as well as fungus gnats.

http://www.doh.wa.gov/ehp/ts/Zoo/WNV/larvicides/Bti.html
 

doc111

Well-Known Member
This last grow I combined: Predatory Nematodes, Neem meal, DE, and crab shell meal. Each of these does a specific task, and this multidisciplinary approach works very well. I have avoided heavier chemicals, regardless of OMRI certification.
I've tried all of those other remedies with the exception of crab shell meal and while they do work to a degree, I've not found anything that comes close to the effectiveness of Gnatrol used with a wetting agent.:blsmoke:
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
I realize Gnatrol = BTI. I was simple saying I didn't use anything stronger than what I listed. As a side note, the BTI will not reproduce, where the nematodes will. Unless there is BTI present in larger quantities.
 

doc111

Well-Known Member
I realize Gnatrol = BTI. I was simple saying I didn't use anything stronger than what I listed. As a side note, the BTI will not reproduce, where the nematodes will. Unless there is BTI present in larger quantities.
That is correct, you have to keep using it, but nematodes only seem to keep the numbers under control, whereas the BTI coupled with a wetting agent seems to completely eradicate them (at least in my experience). I was simply adding my experience with fungus gnat control (which is extensive). I see people say that sticky traps and vinegar traps worked for them. Some say sand or DE works for them. It's all about whatever works for ya!:weed:
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
I used Roots organic, which was supposed to be infested with fungus gnats. I had the best grow of my life with no gnats seting up shop in the soil at all.

The DE also holds water, and only slices soft body tissue at the soil surface where dry.
 

doc111

Well-Known Member
I used Roots organic, which was supposed to be infested with fungus gnats. I had the best grow of my life with no gnats seting up shop in the soil at all.

The DE also holds water, and only slices soft body tissue at the soil surface where dry.
I keep telling people this about DE! A lot of people argue with me though and it gets pretty messy IMO.:cuss:
 
I use a fairly strong (3-4 tbs per 16oz water) solution of Dr Bronners peppermint soap. I spray the base of the stems where the gnats always seem to be hanging out, and they die within 3-5 seconds. Just apply every 2-3 days or so. Been working like a charm for me.
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
I have heard other good things about peppermint. The trick about foliar / surface applications is that it might miss the larvae / eggs down in the soil on the roots.
 

doc111

Well-Known Member
I have heard other good things about peppermint. The trick about foliar / surface applications is that it might miss the larvae / eggs down in the soil on the roots.
Very good point! Which is why a multi-pronged approach is usually going to be more successful.;-) Yellow sticky traps are a good addition as well since they are working when you are not and they provide a good monitor of the adult population.:weed:
 

Rrog

Well-Known Member
I keep telling people this about DE! A lot of people argue with me though and it gets pretty messy IMO.:cuss:
I read from a lot of experienced people like you that like it, so I tried it. If it's wet, it's holding water. If it's dry it's cutting insects up.
 

snew

Well-Known Member
What I do is simple. I bottom water. I have deep pans and I don't wet the top of the soil unless feeding, which I don't need to do much if at all. Since I started doing this I have very very few gnats. Its simple and works for me.
 
Diatomaceous Earth.

I had gnat issues in my last grow during veg. Had six Great White Shark feminized going and gnats began to appear after a slight over-water in a peat based soil that didn't have enough perlite in it for proper drainage at the beginning of week 2.

You need to raise temp and/or air flow a bit and let soil dry out the top 1-2", apply DE with fans off using some type of scoop, making sure you cover every single inch of the exposed soil or as much of it as you can. One can then keep air flow strength low and stream high in order not to blow this stuff all over, this is what I did.

DE won't hurt anything other than your lungs, but, government tests have said one would have to work around DE without a mask for many years before any damage to lungs would begin. Just don't breath in the dust when applying, fairly simple. Any flakes floating around after application are harmless, it's the dust that comes off this stuff when you move it that's bad, but again, it would take many years of breathing in to have a negative effect on you, much like perlite and vermiculite dust.

Or you can top the DE with hydro balls or a very light coating of sand so you don't have to turn airflow down.

Let your soil dry out completely, this is good for most healthy strains and should not harm them, it promotes root growth to a point. Any adults that get through hydro balls or sand if you use either, will meet a quick death from DE as it literally tears them apart, same goes for any leaving the soil. During this time the soil is drying, this will kill any larvae that exists in the soil. Eggs hatch within 4 days, so once you apply DE this is when you begin the countdown. Apply DE, do not water for 5-7 days, during this time use yellow sticky strips or other means to trap and kill any adults not entering soil. This is important, because if you do all this work with the DE and don't rid your room of adults that are not entering the soil you will just have issues again, probably right after your next watering.

It's not the funnest process in the world but it works. One smaller bag was around 15 dollars, for six 5 gal buckets I used only half of it so it's not an expensive solution.
 
But it works. When DE is applied properly and the correct steps taken, it's gold for getting rid of gnats. GoGnats and Gnat Off are better products than Gnatrol, but I suppose DE used in combo with Gnatrol or the others is even better. Although all of these except DE are useless in rooms that maintain a temp of 85 F or higher, but if you're having that problem I guess gnats are the least of your worries. In my case DE alone worked great.
 

Sunbiz1

Well-Known Member
But it works. When DE is applied properly and the correct steps taken, it's gold for getting rid of gnats. GoGnats and Gnat Off are better products than Gnatrol, but I suppose DE used in combo with Gnatrol or the others is even better. Although all of these except DE are useless in rooms that maintain a temp of 85 F or higher, but if you're having that problem I guess gnats are the least of your worries. In my case DE alone worked great.
I use DE for outdoor ant control as well with good results. I thought molasses might work on gnats b/c it does control fire ants(go figure), but unfortunately no.
 
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