LED Without LEDs -My First T5 Grow

AssDan

AssDan

Member
organicbynature said:
I understand these graphs the same way you do. To determine what percentage of the bulb's energy is being used in a spectral range you look at the area under the curve for that range compared to the area under the curve for the entire bulb output. As you noted, the actual area of green light is quite small (and we want some of that green anyways). I really like how this bulb fits the PAR curve:

View attachment 1900709

None of these bulbs are perfect (and we don't even know what the Fiji Purple puts out), but this seems like a pretty solid bulb to me. The Coral Wave is also nice, but not an alternative to this bulb. I see it as a complement, filling in all that 420 (the only thing the Flora Sun is missing in terms of PAR) and adds some far red as well.

While you're paying attention to y-axes, you can note that this overlay uses a different y-axis scale from the spectrum graph (it is showing the percentage of light at that spectrum that is absorbable) - but it shows you how this bulb puts out light in proportion to the efficiency of the PAR curve (except for the 420 range, which can be filled by super actinic in veg and coral wave in flower)
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The thing that turn me off from that bulb is the green spike right at the very bottom of the PAR curve. Doesn't this mean that the plant is using that green light least efficiently? Seems like the least efficient use of your wattage. What about the green looking like it goes off the page? I found this graph. It looks like the blue has a nice spike, but the green is worrisome to me.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4479

Just my opinion, I don't think I'll be using that bulb.
 
Psytranceorgy

Psytranceorgy

Well-Known Member
AltarNation said:
For the record, when I said "it hasn't been confirmed" I was stating that it is not necessarily the actual graph for the fiji purp. If you're saying it's been confirmed that it ISN'T the right graph, then I stand corrected, but I wasn't saying it necessarily was the right graph at all, i was simply saying that there is a lot of doubt that it is the right graph and that it is quite possibly NOT the right graph. I was attempting to warn what you said, basically.
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hehehe no problem Altar... Yes! I was just stating that is has indeed been confirmed that the graph that everyone on the net thinks is the Fiji Purple, is actually the graph for an unavailable nlite bulb, and also that it has been confirmed that there are no graphs for KZ bulbs.
 
AltarNation

AltarNation

Well-Known Member
Re: the FloraSun bulbs, Perhaps you are right in the sense that there is a lot more red activity in that bulb... but if you have red suns in there it should help cover that as well. Google is 404ing on me, otherwise I'd double check the red sun's spectrum again.
 
AltarNation

AltarNation

Well-Known Member
AssDan said:
The thing that turn me off from that bulb is the green spike right at the very bottom of the PAR curve. Doesn't this mean that the plant is using that green light least efficiently? Seems like the least efficient use of your wattage. What about the green looking like it goes off the page? I found this graph. It looks like the blue has a nice spike, but the green is worrisome to me.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4479

Just my opinion, I don't think I'll be using that bulb.
Click to expand...
That was definitely my primary concern as well and is the reason I didn't buy any of those. I'm having very good results with the mix I'm using (Coral Waves/Fiji Purps/454/75.25/Red Suns)

iirc, the red suns spike around 680. Comparing that to the FloraSun graph, the FloraSun appears to spike significantly closer to orange than the red suns. Probably couldn't hurt to have all of the above, but for the sake of efficiency I've got what I've got.
 
Psytranceorgy

Psytranceorgy

Well-Known Member
I agree that the FloraSun's spectrum looks fantastic. BUT I will throw in a word of caution, as the link on Foster Smith aquatics posted above states the 48" is only 39W... hrm... I would confirm that you are getting a 54W HO bulb with that FloraSun... I have always said that it is a great looking spectrum though! Not to replace Red Suns... rather as possible Fiji Purple replacements... (cost)

Also, I will let the pr0f chime in, but I seem to remember a good bit about the quality of manufacturing that could be an issue with low-end bulbs... ZooMed was not exactly at the top of the list... The ZooMed and CoralLife ones seem to be more low-end PetSmart/PetCo type bulbs... I dunno... /shrug.

--EDIT--
Just had that Foster Smith link wrong above... Here is the correct link for 54W T5 HO FloraSun: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3733+13821+23649&pcatid=23649
 
C

cifer

Member
Wow u guys are awesome :)....u found something impossible allthough i dont have the money and live in europe...maaaaaaaaaaaaaaan i want the real chart for the fiji Purp :(.....@ Altar: thank u this is the bulb i looked for :).....Fiji Purp and this one in the middle and between 2000k and red only and on the other side 2000k again and 660 Leds....i love my brain for the pics it makes in my vision :)
 
C

cifer

Member
Lol its not 11:46 Am i have to correct that its 19:47 pm in my place :)

Does anybody of u like electronical music? Had a bad day and give my some luck hormon through Happy Hardcore :dunce::dunce::dunce:
 
organicbynature

organicbynature

Active Member
AssDan said:
The thing that turn me off from that bulb is the green spike right at the very bottom of the PAR curve. Doesn't this mean that the plant is using that green light least efficiently? Seems like the least efficient use of your wattage. What about the green looking like it goes off the page? I found this graph. It looks like the blue has a nice spike, but the green is worrisome to me.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=4479

Just my opinion, I don't think I'll be using that bulb.
Click to expand...
The graph that you linked to is not correct. I posted about that a little while ago. I emailed the company and got actual graphs.

The green spike is high, but very narrow. It does not look to me like much energy is being used here. We need some green anyway, as you can read about earlier in the thread. Finally, show me a good, all-around base bulb without some green.

Psytranceorgy said:
I agree that the FloraSun's spectrum looks fantastic. BUT I will throw in a word of caution, as the link on Foster Smith aquatics posted above states the 48" is only 39W... hrm... I would confirm that you are getting a 54W HO bulb with that FloraSun... I have always said that it is a great looking spectrum though! Not to replace Red Suns... rather as possible Fiji Purple replacements... (cost)

Also, I will let the pr0f chime in, but I seem to remember a good bit about the quality of manufacturing that could be an issue with low-end bulbs... ZooMed was not exactly at the top of the list... The ZooMed and CoralLife ones seem to be more low-end PetSmart/PetCo type bulbs... I dunno... /shrug.

--EDIT--
Just had that Foster Smith link wrong above... Here is the correct link for 54W T5 HO FloraSun: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3733+13821+23649&pcatid=23649
Click to expand...
I have some of these and can confirm they are 54w. I'm not sure how long they will hold up but I got them for $10 ea.

I agree, they are a possible replacement for the Fiji as a base bulb (though you may recall the Prof posting a while ago that you could as easily go all Fiji Purples but that it would be too expensive).

AltarNation said:
Re: the FloraSun bulbs, Perhaps you are right in the sense that there is a lot more red activity in that bulb... but if you have red suns in there it should help cover that as well. Google is 404ing on me, otherwise I'd double check the red sun's spectrum again.
Click to expand...
The Red Suns' peak is the same as the high orange peak (NOT 680) on the Flora Sun (the one that goes above the PAR curve in the chart I posted earlier), according to its chart:

View attachment 1900820
 
UnderCurrentDWC

UnderCurrentDWC

Active Member
I had a few set backs with clones taken from an outdoor plant turning herm.
I now have 2 plants (Sour-D & Jack Frost)24 days into flower under the Par T5 lighting.






















I started more clones 3 weeks ago the plants went under the T5 last week.

Again the leaves turn much more "Lush" under this light than the Mh


















 
A

ATFgrower

Member
I am looking into buying a T5 badboy system. I am interested in the aquarium bulbs, but would like to see a light spectrum chart for the Quantum grow and bloom lamps as well.

Anyone know where to find a chart with that information? I am trying to see how much green or yellow comes from those.

Thanks Prof for such awesome research. Not sure if I will use this method right away, but I will be experimenting with it sometime.
 
C

Calrt

Member
Got my 8 bulb Bad Boy, the quality was a little lacking and had a loose wire and cut off zip ties floating around. The plug connector had a screw missing and was inside the enclosure too...the overall quality control is a joke...The design is nice though.

Anyway I got it fixed up and working, I only have my 3 Fiji Purps at the moment. Both grow tents are set up, 8 bulb T5 in one and 600w Sun System hood with 6" air cooled and a Lumatek Digital ballast in the other. I will be picking up my 2x4 trays today and my hydro plumbing should be here tomorrow. I want to have everything dialed in before my "ready to flower plants" arrive.

They will be in the same room and using the same reservoir for the hydroponics for both tents to keep things fair. I will do my best to keep the humidity and air temp the same in both as well. Anyone want to chime in on what they feel is their ideal air temp and humidity? Also water temp.
 
UnderCurrentDWC

UnderCurrentDWC

Active Member
Calrt said:
Anyone want to chime in on what they feel is their ideal air temp and humidity? Also water temp.
Click to expand...
I would suggest Air temps between 70-80*F during lights on 85*F with Co2, 60-80%Rh during veg & below 50% during flower, H2o temps should be kept below 72*F If you have a chiller 59-65*F depending on flowering stage.

Happy growing
UC~

 
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