How do I compost my soil if I choose to re-use it?

[Rrog]

just a lil info about mycorrhizae....

myco is a very good , understudied fungus that lives in the roots of live plants an helps them grow longer to reach more food.

in my opinion its always good to add some spores to your dirt or on your roots.

myco can only help if it comes in contact with the roots. unlike other organisms that can walk around on their own.

the key thing to know is if there is plenty of food in the soil , the myco will not survive. myco only establishes itself with the roots if there is not enough food in the soil. also high levels of P will kill the fungus too.

There are dozens or hundreds fungus types at work in a healthy soil. Different specializations and associations. Two types of EndoMyco Fungus specifically plug in to the roots as you say, and die pretty rapidly after the roots die and stop producing exudates. The remaining Fungus spores won't "sprout" until there is a presence of new root exudate. Then they start the superhighway construction all over again.

If we insert a new cannabis plant after the old plant is harvested but before the fungus dies, the already established superhighway network is already in place and will swarm the new root and feed it immediately. Similar associations would exist with other currently active fungus types as well as hundreds of types of bacterial colonies. By planting the new plant before the established fungus and bacteria die, the new plant is given optimal care immediately. it will resist infection, predation and all sorts of infestation right fro the start. Again, think old forest = lush growth and no tilling or mixing of the soil except for the top few inches.

The only decent reason i can think of to leave the roots in the pot is so the myco can move to the next root , but in general that is a bad idea. you dont want any "composting" goin on in the same pot your growing in...... all the bacteria is focusing on the dead roots an not feeding your live baby. thats why we cant just throw half composted matter in the pot.

The soil is full of bacteria and fungi that have specific jobs to break down dead roots. They don't switch between feeding the plant and breaking down dead roots. Two different groups of fungus or bacteria. Again, exactly what happens in old forests for billions of years.

 

[AssDan]

Just when I think I've got a decent amount of knowledge under my belt, I read this thread and realize how little I really know.

I hope this isn't off topic cause there's a lot of good stuff on topic here, but how do you know when your compost is ready to use? I've had my pile going for years and I'm always adding to it. I try to take out the stuff that looks really broken down, but I still manage to get some newer items like grass clippings. Is there a definitive answer to this question?

 

[wyteboi]

Just when I think I've got a decent amount of knowledge under my belt, I read this thread and realize how little I really know.

I hope this isn't off topic cause there's a lot of good stuff on topic here, but how do you know when your compost is ready to use? I've had my pile going for years and I'm always adding to it. I try to take out the stuff that looks really broken down, but I still manage to get some newer items like grass clippings. Is there a definitive answer to this question?

well the best i can do you is , when you make your compost pile , then you kinda eyeball it into 3 or 4 or 8 sections an dont put any more scraps
in the first section till you use it...... then move on to the next location in your pile.

in your situation , i would just do what your doing an pull out any big or stinky chunks an use the rest.

If you go by years , then all of your compost is "ready".

old school farmers will make an turn their compost pile till the center stops getting hot , then its done. (hot as in HOT, the middle of the pile can reach well over 100 degrees f.)

about 6 months to a year of composting is about right , the bigger the pile the quicker it breaks down.








soil

 

[Rrog]

I think that's exactly it.

 

[wyteboi]

There are dozens or hundreds fungus types at work in a healthy soil. Different specializations and associations. Two types of EndoMyco Fungus specifically plug in to the roots as you say, and die pretty rapidly after the roots die and stop producing exudates. The remaining Fungus spores won't "sprout" until there is a presence of new root exudate. Then they start the superhighway construction all over again.

If we insert a new cannabis plant after the old plant is harvested but before the fungus dies, the already established superhighway network is already in place and will swarm the new root and feed it immediately. Similar associations would exist with other currently active fungus types as well as hundreds of types of bacterial colonies. By planting the new plant before the established fungus and bacteria die, the new plant is given optimal care immediately. it will resist infection, predation and all sorts of infestation right fro the start. Again, think old forest = lush growth and no tilling or mixing of the soil except for the top few inches.




The soil is full of bacteria and fungi that have specific jobs to break down dead roots. They don't switch between feeding the plant and breaking down dead roots. Two different groups of fungus or bacteria. Again, exactly what happens in old forests for billions of years.

i dont have a prob agreeing that the mycorrhizae an other microbes will stay in tact an start to work on the new plant right away, but i just dont agree with using the soil right away , unless the plant that was harvested was perfect. there is too many probs to carry over to the next plant.
All this stuff would be GREAT for outside , but we have a hard enough time tryin to replicate mother nature as it is ...... you just can not replicate that in a pot inside the home.
i think we do a danm good job , but there is just SO much more bacterias an whether changes in the air for us to be able to get that indoors.

then we have the issue of one pot being full of salts , another being very, very rich still , an a third that ate everything in its site........ i mix the three together so i will at least have a good idea on whats going into my mix.


on to the next subject..... i am aware of the hundreds of species of bacteria an fungus (good an bad) but i know for sure there is no specific species breakin down the roots separately from the rest of the food in the pot. i cant sit an say exactly whats going on in the pot cause i dont have that kind of money for a scope.
thats why i say this subject is understudied. i know that if you load the dirt with N , when or if the microbes start really goin at it , then the activity of all the bacteria will heat up the soil to an undesirable temp for the roots. thats the only "bad" thing i can think of , but after a lot of reading i can say its not recommended to leave compostables in the dirt.


i dont know anymore then you or anyone else , i just like to share / debate what i have read/tried.


somebody will learn somethin off us










soil

 

[Rrog]

wyteboi, I'm grateful for the discussion. Thank you.

The beauty about this soil is that once reused, it gets better and better and the nute inventory is kept up by the microlife, assuming you top dress on schedule with compost and EWC. Keeping it simple with these two products allows the soil to mature. Once up and running, the process gets better and easier.

 

[personified]

Think organic farmers they never remove the soil they just add more organic matter to the topsoil. True organic farmers grow dirt not plants this insures that the plant will thrive.

Composting it breaks down matter and can be helpful if you want to add acidity as humus chelates it becomes more acidic. Microbial life will thrive either way it is just which process of the cycle you want.

If you have had fungis or some other bad microbial life experience I would compost to kill it other wise keep adding wcs, bat, and sbg teas and the life will continue to thrive. I would suggest dumping it and stirring it up to break it down for good areation then a light spray of water to spur the microbs into action. DO NOT USE THE TAP WATER AS TAP WATER CONTAINS CHLORINE and FLORIDE WHICH WILL KILL MICROBIAL LIFE!! Unless you have time to let the life regenerate.

I make my own soil and just thow it on my back yard to build it when done with the grow.

 

[Sunbiz1]

Hi all,

Is tap water a no-no period for this method?. If so, a water filter is going on the Christmas list. I need one anyways, yet I have to use tap water for my flower gardens in the Summer to begin with.

 

[Rrog]

I use well water, otherwise I'd remove the chlorine. I recall people saying that chlorine can be removed by letting the water stand around, but many / most municipal water systems use chloramine, which doesn't evaporate. I haven't readup on this, because I don't have to deal with chlorine.

 

[Sunbiz1]

I use well water, otherwise I'd remove the chlorine. I recall people saying that chlorine can be removed by letting the water stand around, but many / most municipal water systems use chloramine, which doesn't evaporate. I haven't readup on this, because I don't have to deal with chlorine.

I've heard the same regarding allowing water to stand, have not tried or tested this though. I'm not concerned with using city water outdoors, it's unavoidable here and I'm pretty sure nature takes care of that or my soil would have died long ago. But containing and re-using this soil on city water is not a good idea, I'll use bottled until I find a decent filter.

 

[wyteboi]

I've heard the same regarding allowing water to stand, have not tried or tested this though. I'm not concerned with using city water outdoors, it's unavoidable here and I'm pretty sure nature takes care of that or my soil would have died long ago. But containing and re-using this soil on city water is not a good idea, I'll use bottled until I find a decent filter.

no , no you are fine with tap water ..... go to your towns website an check an see if they are using chloramide (or whatever its called) at the current time.
the bigger cities are generally the only ones using it an they only use it when the water gets real nasty.

i am a fish tank man so i know all about chlorine an it will evaporate in 24 hours or less depending on if you move it around or just let it sit. an the other shit they use might not disapate but it has my compost/worm bins/4 fish tanks/5 or 6 species of indoor plants looking great ! an i know my town uses chloramine when there is a lot of rain .
i believe all the beautiful bacterias take care of the tap for you.
years ago i used to use the chlorinated tap water for all my plants an never ever had a prob (using organics an "soil")







soil

 

[personified]

While I agree I also disagree depending as some towns are fine others have more chlorine and some others add one other chemical I can not remeber that is real bad for bacterial growth.

I do aquaponics and first rule is do not add fresh un-aerated tap water. It can kill all or slow the bacteria that conveert the nitrites to nitrates for fertilizer. Then you loose the filtration for the little fishes and can wathc the water turn.

Here is a new grow I started
https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/grow-journals/1896852d1321800356-1st-hydro-grow-dsci0149.jpg

2nd week with lettuce starting to go crazy
https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/marijuana-plant-problems/1908011d1322423139-dirt-hydro-mothers-dsci0177.jpg

and tomatoes coming up
https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/marijuana-plant-problems/1908014d1322423186-dirt-hydro-mothers-dsci0178.jpg

 

[Cooter@666]

Another quick thought about this not only being a superior way to grow IT'S MUCH CHEAPER. I can't believe hundreds of guys are not ranting and raving over this. Super great, super cheap. Grows the best weed possible. Seems too good to be true.

I'm going to try it Rog.

 

[Rrog]

That's GREAT. If there's anything at all that I can do to help, please just ask, PM me, whatever. We need more converts to natural soil.

 

[Cooter@666]

That's GREAT. If there's anything at all that I can do to help, please just ask, PM me, whatever. We need more converts to natural soil.

I have these burlap sacks that I’ve been dying to try out...the plan is to cut them in half and use them as a giant smart pots....once the soil web is established, I’m going to give your method a shot….I’m even going to through in a few worms to help make the soil web a little more complete

 

[Rrog]

Burlap would be great as a smart pot. Great idea. The no-till method is used by many and there are very active threads out there with hundreds of pics of the success of this method. All natural, no bottled ferts from anyone

 

[wyteboi]

While I agree I also disagree depending as some towns are fine others have more chlorine and some others add one other chemical I can not remeber that is real bad for bacterial growth.

I do aquaponics and first rule is do not add fresh un-aerated tap water. It can kill all or slow the bacteria that conveert the nitrites to nitrates for fertilizer. Then you loose the filtration for the little fishes and can wathc the water turn.

of course you never add chlorine strait to the tank.
chlorine is chlorine , its all the same no matter the amount used. it will evaporate in 24 hours .... if you aerate it , it will evaporate much sooner.

i been using sitting tap water for 10 species of fish , 50 species of weed , 20 species of houseplants , a worm bin , and a compost pile for longer then my mh ballast has lasted (well over 20 years)

it is the chloamine that you gotta watch out for , an the big cities only use it when it is absolutely necessary. most small towns dont need to use it at all.
this will not evaporate but it is very easy to get rid of with a chemical.

mircrobes are very very sturdy , even if you dumped a gallon of fresh tap in there , the chlorine would get bound up in the humus an cause no affect at all , now if you keep using chlorine the microbes will hate you.

remember a live soil takes care of everything!





soil