Please HELP, large spread of brown, orange, yellowish patches overnight!!! (pics)

redfairie

Member
Please help brown orange, yellowish burnt patched have appeared on one of my plants overnight, and spread to the other to by the next day. Leaves have also started to curl under and upwards, and the discoloured patches are all cripsy. Growth was going really well until then, with no problems what so ever.
I have looked at other threads and thought it may be boron or phosphorus deficiency, but I don’t want to treat it for the wrong thing and make it worse. I don’t think is nute burn cos I had that on a previous grow, and was mainly on the tips of the leaves.
Ph of soil is 7, would this be affecting it?
Plants are autoflowering and about 4 weeks into flowering.

Any help would be much appreciated
Cheers
 

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Randm

Active Member
You don't mention what you are feeding them, or how often. Ph is high, needs to be around 6. What kind of lighting, air flow, temperatures, etc..

Asking for help without submitting info is a waste of time.

My advice ( without further info )would be to flush with ph'd water and see what happens.
 

redfairie

Member
Thanks, they being feed plant magic, old timer grow and then bloom, at 2ml per litre. nutes are being fed every 3 waterings. temp around 65-75, depending on if the lights on or not, light cylce 18/6
Lighting 125w dual cfl, one per plant
 

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
You don't mention what you are feeding them, or how often. Ph is high, needs to be around 6. What kind of lighting, air flow, temperatures, etc..

Asking for help without submitting info is a waste of time.

My advice ( without further info )would be to flush with ph'd water and see what happens.

not good advice at all .... do not flush !
a flush will just make things worse ... you cant flush soil , it will just make your soil too wet an cause even more probs.






soil:leaf:
 

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
that is the start of a major N def. they need more N , not just "flower" food.


you dont know the ph of your soil an its better that way. 7 is NOT too high. if that was accurate its perfect.

you cannot alter the ph of soil with a simple watering..... it wont work.


wait till they dry out real good an give them a dose of "grow" food.... quickly ..... 2 in a row of grow food.

i have seen this many many times , its a overall def of everything , but N is the main thing right now , if you cant get them big fan leaves to survive your crop will go to shit .






soil
 

Randm

Active Member
Yes you can ( and should ) flush soil, if its in pots. If its in the ground you obviously can't. If you have nute lock, or too high of a ph in your soil, due to using inorganic (and some organic ) fertalizers which cause salt buildup then you need to flush. If you don't believe that, so be it, or if you think its the wrong thing to do for some reason, then don't. Personally I flush at least once during my flower period ( yes it is in soil, 5 gal to be exact). 5.8 to around 6.5 is the ideal range for ph in marijuana. ( Look it up if you don't believe me ) 7 is too high. Pot likes an acidic soil and 7 is neutral ) Besides, flushing rarely causes any harm unless you have been overwatering, so trying it won't hurt a thing.
After flushing feed as normal with ph'd water. If you have nute lockout ( which it looks like ) DO not assume its just N deficiant. If you add more N during lockout to try and cure it, it will just make things worse if you do not flush first.
You might also try adding some cal-mag or epsom salts to your feeding.
'
If all the problems came on quickly, on all or most plants, then you need to re-evaluate your feeding/watering program. Thats assuming there is not a bug or root problem. (you might take a look at the roots in several of the plants to see if you might have some root bug or fungas thing going on there.)

This advice is free, take it or leave it.
 

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
Yes you can ( and should ) flush soil, if its in pots. If its in the ground you obviously can't. If you have nute lock, or too high of a ph in your soil, due to using inorganic (and some organic ) fertalizers which cause salt buildup then you need to flush.
You need to read about the structure of soil and how it works. In some cases i will agree that a "flush" can help soil , but in most cases no.
the salts get bound up by microbes an ions and are literally attached to the dirt particles thus making it very hard to "flush" out. if their are salts laying at the bottom or on the sides then it might help to run some water through it, but it wont get rid of whats causing ph probs or a "lockout" .

as i said before you can not simply ph your water/food an expect it to change the ph of the dirt.

5.8 to around 6.5 is the ideal range for ph in marijuana. ( Look it up if you don't believe me ) 7 is too high. Pot likes an acidic soil and 7 is neutral ) Besides, flushing rarely causes any harm unless you have been overwatering, so trying it won't hurt a thing.
After flushing feed as normal with ph'd water.
by your beliefs , a plant will die if fed 4.0 every watering....... nope the soil will buffer it back to where the soil wants it , then after a very long time of doing that (well beyond the average life span of pot) the soil will start to lower an will eventually become acidic.
IF your using real dirt , not just peat mix , then you dont worry bout the ph at all because you cant change it anyway. (unless of course you uppot the plant an add things to it. no need in ph'ing anything at all.
ALL the best dope in the world is grown organically with no ph meters around.

different foods are only availible at different ph's , so a mj plant is fine anywhere between 4 an 8. (with 5.5 to 7 being a good average)
flushing causes lots of harm in this paticular case where the plant aint eatin well/at all. that means there will be a lot more time between waterings an a flush could drag that time out to weeks.

If you have nute lockout ( which it looks like ) DO not assume its just N deficiant. If you add more N during lockout to try and cure it, it will just make things worse if you do not flush first.
you dont have to assume anything , its right there in the pic , its very N def an as i also said it needs a balanced "grow" diet. its not locked out , its underfed

If all the problems came on quickly, on all or most plants, then you need to re-evaluate your feeding/watering program. Thats assuming there is not a bug or root problem. (you might take a look at the roots in several of the plants to see if you might have some root bug or fungas thing going on there.
good advise !







soil
 

Randm

Active Member
[You need to read about the structure of soil and how it works. In some cases i will agree that a "flush" can help soil , but in most cases no.
the salts get bound up by microbes an ions and are literally attached to the dirt particles thus making it very hard to "flush" out. if their are salts laying at the bottom or on the sides then it might help to run some water through it, but it wont get rid of whats causing ph probs or a "lockout" .

as i said before you can not simply ph your water/food an expect it to change the ph of the dirt.



by your beliefs , a plant will die if fed 4.0 every watering....... nope the soil will buffer it back to where the soil wants it , then after a very long time of doing that (well beyond the average life span of pot) the soil will start to lower an will eventually become acidic.
IF your using real dirt , not just peat mix , then you dont worry bout the ph at all because you cant change it anyway. (unless of course you uppot the plant an add things to it. no need in ph'ing anything at all.
ALL the best dope in the world is grown organically with no ph meters around.

different foods are only availible at different ph's , so a mj plant is fine anywhere between 4 an 8. (with 5.5 to 7 being a good average)
flushing causes lots of harm in this paticular case where the plant aint eatin well/at all. that means there will be a lot more time between waterings an a flush could drag that time out to weeks.
you dont have to assume anything , its right there in the pic , its very N def an as i also said it needs a balanced "grow" diet. its not locked out , its underfed


This is the first time I've ever heard of this. I do know that if you feed with unorganic nutes, without checking the ph first, then you run the risk of raising/lowering the ph due to the ingrediants of the nutes themselves. The instructions given on the bottles even mentions this. I kind of go by what nature does that I have observed. Have you ever checked out a garden the day after it rains? All the plants look so happy. I attribute this to Nature doing the flushing.
 

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
This is the first time I've ever heard of this. I do know that if you feed with unorganic nutes, without checking the ph first, then you run the risk of raising/lowering the ph due to the ingrediants of the nutes themselves. The instructions given on the bottles even mentions this. I kind of go by what nature does that I have observed. Have you ever checked out a garden the day after it rains? All the plants look so happy. I attribute this to Nature doing the flushing.
thats not true. if you feed with inorganic foods then you must pay close attention to how much you use not the ph of the food.
In hydro where the roots only rely on water in the rez , then yes you must keep an eye on the ph.... but in dirt (not soiless) the whole soil food web will buffer your food to whatever the dirt wants it to be.

i know this info from reading an from experience. i have watered with 4.0 every other watering for many cycles an have yet to run into a ph prob.
(peat based mixes hold a very low ph anyway so that is trouble in itself.)

the "instructions on the bottle" are a sales pitch an you already knew that. of course its gonna say check your ph , you have to on hydro, an the reason it says it for dirt is because they know what sells...... look at this website an hundreds more an everybody is always rantin an ravin about ph , so of course the bottle is gonna rant an rave too.

AN has mastered "label making" ... they tell you EVERYTHING you want to hear , ...... then humboldt claims 2+ lbs off one 1000 ? , so food + 1000w = 2+ lbs ? i dont think so.

as far as the day after it rains .... well i attribute that to the food an water they got the night before.

no disrespect Randm , an thanks for the clean debate. just like everyone else , i have a LOT to learn even after decades of experience.






soil :bigjoint:
 

workinit

Well-Known Member
that is the start of a major N def. they need more N , not just "flower" food.


you dont know the ph of your soil an its better that way. 7 is NOT too high. if that was accurate its perfect.

you cannot alter the ph of soil with a simple watering..... it wont work.


wait till they dry out real good an give them a dose of "grow" food.... quickly ..... 2 in a row of grow food.

i have seen this many many times , its a overall def of everything , but N is the main thing right now , if you cant get them big fan leaves to survive your crop will go to shit .






soil
Man, I don't mean to come off as a dick here but that is just god awful information. First, I will bet you my 4k doberman that's not a N deficiency by itself. You have problems due to soil toxicity of some sort, either nute imbalance(too much or NPK is off badly) or ph imbalance. I would transplant immediately and just break up the bottom of the roots. It will extend flowering a week or two but if you don't you will be chasing you tail the whole grow. TRUST ME ON THIS it took me over a year to figure this out.
 

skinitti666

Well-Known Member
DSC00624.jpgDSC00570.jpgi dont know what the hell youre smoking i flush mine and buddy you should flush those plant now with ph balanced water between 5.3-6.3 no higher than 6.4 and feed her some cal/mag let her sit for a few days and pray heres some shit you can use for P N and the cal/mag the bone meal pic i dont have but same brand as blood meal trust me bro get her help
not good advice at all .... do not flush !
a flush will just make things worse ... you cant flush soil , it will just make your soil too wet an cause even more probs.






soil:leaf:
 

skinitti666

Well-Known Member
you should hang up your lights because your green thumb has turned brown thats if it ever was green with this bogus ass info youre putting up on the block.see its ppl like you that have other smoke sites talking shit about us theyre laughing at us thanks to jack asses like this
that is the start of a major N def. they need more N , not just "flower" food.


you dont know the ph of your soil an its better that way. 7 is NOT too high. if that was accurate its perfect.

you cannot alter the ph of soil with a simple watering..... it wont work.


wait till they dry out real good an give them a dose of "grow" food.... quickly ..... 2 in a row of grow food.

i have seen this many many times , its a overall def of everything , but N is the main thing right now , if you cant get them big fan leaves to survive your crop will go to shit .






soil
 

silusbotwin

Well-Known Member
I'd have to agree with the general consensus. Flushing is exactly what needs to be done here. Just my opinion so take it or leave it. Telling someone that flushing does no good is just incorrect. Also, hydro growing should be at 5.5-5.8 ph and soil at 6.5-6.8. a ph of 7 is not what cannabis likes. Keep your soil slightly acidic. Nuetral soil at a ph of 7 is NOT favored by cannabis.
 

workinit

Well-Known Member
thats not true. if you feed with inorganic foods then you must pay close attention to how much you use not the ph of the food.
In hydro where the roots only rely on water in the rez , then yes you must keep an eye on the ph.... but in dirt (not soiless) the whole soil food web will buffer your food to whatever the dirt wants it to be.

i know this info from reading an from experience. i have watered with 4.0 every other watering for many cycles an have yet to run into a ph prob.
(peat based mixes hold a very low ph anyway so that is trouble in itself.)

the "instructions on the bottle" are a sales pitch an you already knew that. of course its gonna say check your ph , you have to on hydro, an the reason it says it for dirt is because they know what sells...... look at this website an hundreds more an everybody is always rantin an ravin about ph , so of course the bottle is gonna rant an rave too.

AN has mastered "label making" ... they tell you EVERYTHING you want to hear , ...... then humboldt claims 2+ lbs off one 1000 ? , so food + 1000w = 2+ lbs ? i dont think so.

as far as the day after it rains .... well i attribute that to the food an water they got the night before.

no disrespect Randm , an thanks for the clean debate. just like everyone else , i have a LOT to learn even after decades of experience.






soil :bigjoint:
I have to strongly disagree with you again. I also have some experience and have done a bit of reading and all my experience and most everything I have read goes opposite of what you say. When using pure organics PH is not nearly as critical as when using semi-organic or chemical nutrients. Here is why. When you feed organically you are not feeding your plants you are feeding the bacteria in your SOIL. These bacteria in turn then feed the plant. Most organics farmers don't own a PH pen or it's sitting in a junk drawer. This is why plants are slower to react than chemicals as the raw materials have to go through the process of being broken down before they become available to the plant. Now when feeding chemicals regardless of the medium(hydro or soiless) you are feeding your plant directly and therefore the nutrients must be in the proper ph range to be available. I preface this by saying you must have a nicely balance organic soil mix to begin with.

I used to have just terrible problems that would start within a week of the first bloom feed. Drove me nuts. I tried everything, had 27 ph pens 14 PPM meters and all the other shit I could buy. I used Roots organics and FFOF with the same results. I used both FF nutes and Pure Blend products same results. Keep in mind neither FF or Pure Blend nutrients are organic while the soils are organic. I read a few posts here about super soil and tried it. To my amazement it was the best I ever did with nothing but water. They were good but not great so I made my own mix and am now using 100% raw organic nutrients and holy shit!!!

I really think think you need to be either chems or organic. No mixing. I think the chems fuck with the soil microbiology in organic soils. It's just a theory and I could be way off.
 

watchhowIdoit

New Member
Wyte seems to be the only one that actual knows what hes talking about. Seems the rest are just continuing to spread cannabis forum bs......
 
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