A few question about smoking my big budzz with powdery mildew... **pics**

[guitarfreak]

My plant has powdery mildew >: (. So i bought a powder stuff that is 92% sulphur and you can also dissolve it in water.. anyways, it says on the label that you can use it up to one day before you harvest and it also says that it cotrols powdery mildew. Does that mean that it will get rid of it or stop it from spreading? Also, if my buds get powdery mildew is it ok to smoke them?

My infected plant

 

[Grumpy Old Dreamer]

Using sulphur one day before harvest would refer to plants that you plan to eat - I would strongly recommend that you make sure that all traces of the sulphur are gone before you harvest, cure and smoke.
Burning sulphur and inhaling the smoke is a sure fire way to screw you lungs, nevermind the terrible taste.

As for smoking powdery mildew - it wouldn't be the first time it has been smoked. Over the years I have smoked some terrible pot that was grown by rank amateurs ... but it got me high and when you need a smoke, any shit will do.

 

[woodsmaneh!]

depends when you harvest? In a week or so, use the sulfer, under a week use a mix of milk and water. Any milk but skim or chocolate mix at a rate of 1o to 20% milk and the rest water. Spray them down you to run off top and bottom. There is an em-zine in the milk that kills it.

If you can put a small fan out to get some air movement that will also help.

Peace

More info

The biggest thing are the environmental conditions. Cloudy humid weather is ideal for this fungus. If the days are warm and the nights cool, it is even happier.

This is one reason why we like to ensure our garden plants are given adequate ventilation and we try not to water over top of the plant. We want those leaves to stay as dry as possible and reduce the humidity around the plant.

Not Just Water But High Humidity


It is not necessarily the water on the leaves that creates the problem but rather the high level of humidity around the plant. (lots of free water evaporating from the leaves rather than water sitting on the plant leaf).

It is also why we like to have susceptible plants in the full sun and particularly in the morning sun so the leaves and environment dry out and evaporate the dew as soon as possible.

And I note that the problem only takes 7 to 10 days from the time the powdery mildew fungus lands on the leaf to the time you’ll start to see symptoms. This is one fast fungus.

Treatment


If your garden tends to be a mildew trap, then your first line of defense is to always grow disease resistant varieties. While they are not immune to fungus problems, they’ll hold off the powdery mildew fungus as long as possible.

It is also interesting that while a plant might have resistance in one area to that area’s form of powdery mildew, it may be susceptible in another province or state. Yes, there are "families" of powdery mildew that vary from area to area.

Plant in full sunlight so plants dry out and humidity around the leaves is reduced quickly in the morning.

No Crowding


Do not crowd plants any more than necessary. If in the perennial garden, try to avoid having tall plants next to each other that will block air circulation or worse yet, fall into each other to shade or cover leaves (touching). This touching will increase the humidity between the touching leaves and put a big red sign up that says, “powdery mildew welcome here”.

Don't Overfeed


Do not overfeed your plants. Overfed plants are high in nitrogen and this succulent growth is again, like hanging out a sign for both disease and insects to feed.

As soon as you see a problem, start spraying. Spray repeatedly and regularly to stop the problem. Remember that rain or overhead irrigation washes off the spray protection so you’ll have to reapply after these events.

Cleanliness


Garden cleanliness is next to powderylessness. Clean up your garden after the season and during the season to slow down the spread of this problem. Badly infected leaves and stems should be pruned out and discarded (they are overwintering sites).

Use a drip irrigation system rather than an overhead system. If you have to use overhead, then water twice a week with deep watering rather than a little bit every day.

Read the label on any spray product you use. Remember that if a fungicide kills fungus on the leaf, it will also kill beneficial fungus in the soil. Do not overspray so that the soil fungi are killed.

But do cover both the top and bottom of leaf surfaces with spray to the point of runoff. (Point of runoff means you spray but as soon as you see the moisture on the leaf starting to accumulate into drops and run, that is enough application.)

Organic Control Sprays


You can both spray and pour liquid seaweed onto your plant’s leaves. Research has shown that this has a powerful “booster” effect to your plant’s health and it helps fight off the powdery mildew. This is being used in many vineyards now as an organic control because it seems to work particularly well on crops that produce fruit. I mention it as a good alternative.

Sulphur sprays are quite effective at stopping the spread of powdery mildew. Remember that they do knock out beneficial soil fungi as well so do only spray to runoff. You can find sulphur in almost any garden shop.

Sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) is recommended by many gardeners and when it is mixed at the rate of between 2 and 10 g per litre of water (add a small dash of liquid soap as a wetting agent). (1 teaspoon to a quart of water) I’ve seen research that up to 20g / litre of water has worked well with no burning.

And to just to make your day, it has also been reported (I’ve never used this myself) that urine when diluted at 1 part urine to 4 parts water is an effective powdery mildew control. There’s another reason to take a seventh inning stretch.

Milk is another very effective spray for powdery mildew. Mix the milk at a ratio of one part of milk to nine parts of water and spray weekly. Do NOT go higher than 3 milk to 9 water or you’ll attract other fungus problems that want to feed on the milk. Skim milk works well as it contains no fat to turn rancid (and attract other problems that like the smell of rotting fats.)

There are also products on the garden center shelves featuring jojoba oil and neem oil. I can’t speak to these but some gardeners swear by their effectiveness for controlling powdery mildew.

Read more: http://www.simplegiftsfarm.com/powdery-mildew.html#ixzz0ypujQ3Fp​

 

[oddboy]

Awesome advice, thanks woodsman.........I also recommend Neem for spider mite mitigation.....Neem is systemic and organic as well....other nice features....

 

[woodsmaneh!]

Awesome advice, thanks woodsman.........I also recommend Neem for spider mite mitigation.....Neem is systemic and organic as well....other nice features....

Yup neem is great but not a knock down killer got to start early to make it effective.