Burning with Nutes or Lights or????.....

[themlouds]

Please assist.

Im nervous....I have 10 plants in flower (32 Days) and the leaves on 4 of them are yellowing like crazy (the rest arent yellowing but they arent looking the best either). Some leaves have totally died and are crispy and crumble to the touch (at the bottom w/ no light) and I am concerned that two of my plants are dying fast. One in particular has slowed growth tremendously and is behind the rest of the plants in terms of bud growth (look at Wide-001 mid picture towards the right). This one plant also has red hairs everywhere when the remaining only have a few and Im only 32 days in flower. The other bad plant is doing better with the bud growth but is starting to yellow like crazy too (Close-002). What am I doing wrong? Am I burning my plants? Also, I have question about PPM allocation.....If my target PPM is 2.0 EC, how much of that would be macros and supplements? The reason that I ask this is because if I follow the bottle or even at 70% of what the bottle says, I will be at my target EC after adding supplements or close to that target and then Im left with adding just a little base to reach my PPM. How do I disperse the micro and macro?

Please Help.......asap.........Thanks in advance.




Specs of Room;
10'x9'x7'
4-1000 watt HPS (air cooled)
Hydroton Rocks
75-82 Degrees
CO2
Advanced Nutrients (1.7 EC) (went as high as 2.2-2.5 unknowingly for first 4 weeks of flower)
Ph 5.6-6.2 (set at 5.8 when reservoir is changed)
Humidity at 30%
Lights at 18 inches above tip of tallest cola
10 Plants (4 Cataract Kush and 6 Corleone Kush)
32 Days in Flower
Water temp 63-69 Degrees

 

[SSHZ]

I would guess it's a cal/mag deficiency. Anytime you see leaves "praying", it's usually a cal/mag issue.

If the pic's were better, I could tell you for sure.

 

[thepaintedchef]

This praying you refer to is that when they are standing srtaight up???

 

[MrGhettoGrower]

The pic's need to be better to make a sound assessment of the situation.
How many times you feed'em 2.0 ec ? This is = to what 1400 ppms?

 

[zo0t]

4-1000 watt HPS (air cooled)

wtf! MANG U DONT NEED 4000WATSS HPS ANYWAYS CANT SEE FROM PICS !

 

[themlouds]

They were feed at 2.0 EC (= to 1400 PPM) almost every feeding up until mid 4th week of flower (1.7 Ec = 1200 PPM)..........I will upload better pictures in a sec.............I have Cal/Mag (Advanced Nutes) but how much should I add?...I usually add 50-70% of what the bottle says (1 - 1.4ml per liter). Is this amount sufficient? Should I add at full strength?

 

[themlouds]

Ok. Here are better pictures.....please help!

 

[mc260377]

Looks like your burning them, probably from light. 4 x 1000w though.... that is overkill - get the lights higher or move plants and switch at least 1 of those lights off Also, remove those dead leaves.

 

[SSHZ]

I tend to agree........looks like a heat issue. The plants close up the leave surface trying to hold moisture in the leaf. Cal/Mag should be applied with every watering 5ml-10ml per gallon, especially if you are using r.o. water. The "praying" looks like children's hands put together praying.

 

[themlouds]

Ok......I have close ups now....If you look at picture CU & HORRIBLE you will see the plant that is behind in terms of bud production. This plant also has red hairs very premature compared to the flowering time (9-11 weeks) and the rest of the plants. What do you guys think?.........light burn?.........nute burn?..........deficiency?......Im running R/O water with AN line............Thanks

 

[BeaverHuntr]

Ok......I have close ups now....If you look at picture CU & HORRIBLE you will see the plant that is behind in terms of bud production. This plant also has red hairs very premature compared to the flowering time (9-11 weeks) and the rest of the plants. What do you guys think?.........light burn?.........nute burn?..........deficiency?......Im running R/O water with AN line............Thanks

Wow that nitrogen deficiency you would usually see toward the end of a grow. Usually the sugar leaves do this when you cut out nitrogen they eat the stored nitrogen.. A little too early.. Perhaps give those plants a little extra nitrogen? I dont think you have too much light, light is food. however it could be some heat issues thats a lot of light so maybe take some of the other posters advice and raise the lights some.. Those plants look nice minus the yellowing.

 

[themlouds]

I tend to agree........looks like a heat issue. The plants close up the leave surface trying to hold moisture in the leaf. Cal/Mag should be applied with every watering 5ml-10ml per gallon, especially if you are using r.o. water. The "praying" looks like children's hands put together praying.

Thanks for the reply......My room temps are fine (approx 75-82 degress) but could it be possible that although the ROOM TEMP is fine, the temp where the plant is tip is being pounded with radiation?????
What should I do now? How high should my light be from the tip of the tallest cola???

Thanks.

 

[SSHZ]

Room temps don't matter as much as temps closer to the lights. I think you may have them a little too close- go to 24-30 inches away to be safe. I think you have multiple issues going on including pH swings (your pH is too high in hydro if you are up around 6.0), cal/mag deficiency, heat burn, etc. It's hard to diagnose when multiple things hit the plants. I run at 80 degrees all the time with no ill effects.

 

[SSHZ]

From another site:

"Daytime conditions should be 70-80 degrees without co2, 80-90 degrees with co2 until the last two weeks when daytime temps should be kept between 70-80 and co2 can be reduced to adjust for the lower metabolism. Night temperatures should be kept above 60 degrees to prevent stress. It is preferrable during flowering to have a night temperature drop of 10-20 degrees to stimulate flowering hormones and reduce stem elongation.I find that low humidity causes stress on plants. I recommend 50-60% humidity until the final 2 weeks of flowering. At this point, the humidity should be lowered as much as possible to encourage the plant to seal and protect itself with additional resin. (I am able to get the humidity to go as low as 31%) I have been able to frost things up considerably this way. The higher humidity levels prior to final ripening reduce salt levels within the plant tissue and encourage healthy, more lush growth."

 

[hazeman1]

dude ....first raise your lights upa nd get rid of 1 or 2 3 is way to many secondly u have a N def....what line of AN are you using is it the 3 part ph perfect?

also the light is causing heat stress and light burn its not ur nutes burning your crop its the light

id add a 25% increase of grow next couple of feedings and monitor it and the 9-11 weeks is a guideline i have had crops that say 8 weeks and have gone to 10 and vice versa

 

[BeaverHuntr]

dude ....first raise your lights upa nd get rid of 1 or 2 3 is way to many secondly u have a N def....what line of AN are you using is it the 3 part ph perfect?

also the light is causing heat stress and light burn its not ur nutes burning your crop its the light

id add a 25% increase of grow next couple of feedings and monitor it and the 9-11 weeks is a guideline i have had crops that say 8 weeks and have gone to 10 and vice versa

Dude light = food.. He doesnt need to take down his lights he just needs to raise them up. If he's using co2 even better. Light + Co2 = food! The plants munch on that. Raise the lights.

 

[hazeman1]

dude ther ei sonly some much a plant can absorb to photosynthesis and 4 1000w hps over 10 plants is an over kill

 

[BeaverHuntr]

From another site:

"Daytime conditions should be 70-80 degrees without co2, 80-90 degrees with co2 until the last two weeks when daytime temps should be kept between 70-80 and co2 can be reduced to adjust for the lower metabolism. Night temperatures should be kept above 60 degrees to prevent stress. It is preferrable during flowering to have a night temperature drop of 10-20 degrees to stimulate flowering hormones and reduce stem elongation.I find that low humidity causes stress on plants. I recommend 50-60% humidity until the final 2 weeks of flowering. At this point, the humidity should be lowered as much as possible to encourage the plant to seal and protect itself with additional resin. (I am able to get the humidity to go as low as 31%) I have been able to frost things up considerably this way. The higher humidity levels prior to final ripening reduce salt levels within the plant tissue and encourage healthy, more lush growth."

I dont see any of the rusty spots usually attributed to cal/mag but if he's growing hydro with R/O water he should be adding 5ml / per gallon.

 

[BeaverHuntr]

dude ther ei sonly some much a plant can absorb to photosynthesis and 4 1000w hps over 10 plants is an over kill

YOu may be right, I dunno .

 

[themlouds]

Yes, my PH will jump from 5.6 or 5.8 (when I initially set it) to 6.1 or 6.2, then slowly climb to 6.5-6.8 over the course of a week or so. I cant keep it at 5. nothing too long. I tried ph down but the plants do not seem to like it or accept it. After I add my nutes, the ph is PERFECT (5.6 w/o ph down) and then it begins to jump.
Example feeding at week 4 of Flower;
200 Liter of R/O water (30 PPM at best)
-240 ml of Cal/Mag BLOOM
-240 ml of Kushie Kush
-240 ml of Sensizym
-240 ml of B-52
-240 ml of Bud Candy
-480 ml of Connoisseur A
-480 ml of Connoisseur B

All of this will create a PPM of around 1400 PPM or 2.0 EC with a PH of 5.6........Should my nute amounts be different? more base? more macros?