Why is my grow tent so hot?

nickwin

Well-Known Member
I'm in the final stages of getting my first grow room set up and I am struggling to keep the temperature down. Let me start out by saying I know this is a very common issue and I have read just about everything I could find of heat control ventilation ect. over the past few months and I honestly thought I wasn't going to have a problem with it.

This is my set up: I have a 4x4x6.5 grow tent inside a room that is approx. 8x12x8. Knowing heat was going to be an issue I went with a bigger fan than I thought I would need, a Tjurlund 6" inline rated at 500cfm. This is my only ventilation fan and it set up like this; 6x24" Phat filter -> Inline fan (pulling through filter) -> 600w HPS 6" air cooled reflector (Xtrasun) ->out of the tent and out a nearby window through a 6" louvered dryer vent. The window I exhaust out of is the type that swing out on hinges kind of like a door, I have the window cracked about 2-3" and its about 30" tall. For intake into the tent I am relying on two passive vents, one 6" duct and one 14x10 vent. Intake into the room that the tent is in is also passive, with just the gap under the door (approx. 3/4"x24") and the a heat vent in the room. I also have a nice size circulating fan in the tent.

I finally ran the light and fan for a few hours yesterday for the first time and was shocked at how hot it got under the light. I was taking the temp in two ways, with a digital thermometer and a IR thermo. The air temp in the tent up by the ceiling leveled off at about 74-76F, but directly under the light got a LOT hotter. The digital thermo was reading about 80-84 directly below the light with a 18-24" gap between the light and the probe. Using the IR thermo I was getting reading as high as 90F on a green t-shirt that I was using to simulate a plant at about 18". Not what I wanted to see. The air temp in the room that the tent is in is around 70F but got up to 74 with everything running for a few hours.

So now the real question, why is it getting so damn hot under the light, and what can I do to get the temp down 5 or so degrees? I honestly am not sure what the problem is at this point. I thought my fan would have plenty of CFM for my set up, at its rated CFM it would exchange the air in my room like 4x a minute, but maybe with all of the obstructions, turns, and lack of active intake. Am I just not getting enough CFM to cool the light? I have seen some people who claim they can put there air cooled 600w as close as 4-6" from there plants, how is that possible? Is it just a matter of having enough CFM through the light? It seems like my problem is the radiant heat from the actual light, not the actual air temp (convection) in the tent, will more air flow be able to do much with that kind of heat? Two possible solutions I can think of would be to add another fan for an intake into the tent, or possibly swap out the Xtrasun hood for a Cooltube. If there is a cheaper solution that would obviously be ideal. I am a renter and I don't want to have to make any major alterations to the house itself, so cutting a whole in the door and things like that are not options for me.

The first thing I tried was to remove a piece of white speaker cloth that I had over the duct behind the louvered exhaust vent. The speaker cloth made the vent less noticeable visually from the outside, but removing it did seem to noticeably increase air flow. Unfortunately not enough to have much effect on the temp. The temp probably went down a degree or two, but its still in the 80s under the light. Any thought/advice/tips would be awesome, I was hoping to have some girls in the room within the next couple weeks. Thanks!
 

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bigmanc

Well-Known Member
i run a 1000whps in my 4x4 with a 4' inline fan and i can keep my light 1ft from my plants, your setup looks fine! you could even put a 1000w in that tent and make it cool.

WHAT YOU NEED TO DO!!! (my trial and error experience)

Take that friggin venting out of the hole. Close the Hole. Safety pin up one of the flaps.

Yes you will have a "light leak" but you wont have fluffy buds due to heat.

Whats happening.

You need negative pressure to force the hot air out, your filter will suck out the hot air before it drops with the help of your oscilating fan. Heat rises and thats why your filter is there. Hot air carries odours. In the hottest temps of summer, you open your freezer the cold air forces the hot from around your head and cools you down. Consider the flap as your freezer and the cooltube as your head.

Hope that helps.


 

nickwin

Well-Known Member
i run a 1000whps in my 4x4 with a 4' inline fan and i can keep my light 1ft from my plants, your setup looks fine! you could even put a 1000w in that tent and make it cool.


This is exactly the kind of statement that makes me think something is off in my set up. It seems like it should not be getting as hot as it is, and this is with the light at least 18" away. When you say open one of the flaps, do you mean the rectangular ones at the bottom? I actually have one of those open already, my plan was to use that plus the 6" duct during veg and close the flap and add another 6" duct intake to keep the light out, by my room is actually dark enough that I could probably get away with leaving the vent open during flowering. Unfortunately if that's what you were talking about, its already open (look in the third pic, the vent on the left is open) and the temp is still to high.
 

Ringsixty

Well-Known Member
I see you have chosen to filter the air and then send it to you reflector. I just have a silly question. Is there a exhaust fan pulling the hot air away from your reflector and exhaust the hot ?
 

Tmac4302

Well-Known Member
Low to mid 80's isn't bad man. The plant will adjust to whatever environment you give her as long as it is CONSTANT. The only times you will start seeing problems, imo, is when temps are up and down all the time. Plus, if you have fans blowing over the top of the canopy/across the plant, the temps will lower around your plants "bubble". You can lower it a good 2-4 degrees that way and the plants LOVE it. Also, you might be having problems with the heat if your ambient temps outside the tent that are being sucked in through negative pressure are a little warm. It seems like you have a few bends in your ducting as well. That can cause a pretty noticeable decline in CFMs. Hope you get it figured out man.
 

dbuffet

Active Member
Also make sure your hood is sealed so your not getting any leaks. Feel around the glass for leaks and seal them with duct tape. I also push my hot air to another room and pull cold air in through my window. Good luck.
 

bigmanc

Well-Known Member
I see you have chosen to filter the air and then send it to you reflector. I just have a silly question. Is there a exhaust fan pulling the hot air away from your reflector and exhaust the hot ?
LOLOL i cant believe i didnt notice this!!! dude, take your fan and connect it closer to the exit. Inline fans are designed to suck air out. Not push air through probably 6ft of ducting. Dont listen to whoever told you to do that, or it could be a honest mistake.

This is mysetup and im running about 77f with a 4inch
bigmanc-367966-albums-white-rhino-picture1966519-wr-setup.jpg
 

nickwin

Well-Known Member
Also make sure your hood is sealed so your not getting any leaks. Feel around the glass for leaks and seal them with duct tape. I also push my hot air to another room and pull cold air in through my window. Good luck.
I do have a pretty good seal on the hood. When I first ran it the lens kind of bulged out in the middle from the positive pressure, and was leaking MAJOR air. I put that duct tape on there as you can see in the pic and that pretty much took care of it. I wonder if the fact that the lens bulged out that much was a sign that I have to much positive pressure in my ducting, in other words the exhaust outtake is so restricted?
 

nickwin

Well-Known Member
LOLOL i cant believe i didnt notice this!!! dude, take your fan and connect it closer to the exit. Inline fans are designed to suck air out. Not push air through probably 6ft of ducting. Dont listen to whoever told you to do that, or it could be a honest mistake.

This is mysetup and im running about 77f with a 4inch
View attachment 1999388
Interesting, I kind of wondered it I was asking to much of the inline pushing through that many turns and whatnot after the fan. But I have read from multiple sources that its good to have positive pressure in your ducting to keep it open. Also, how many watts is your light? And it is a Cooltube, so it may naturally run cooler than my Xtrasun? If moving the inline would actually reduce the temp a few degrees that would be an easy solution for sure.
 

Dank Hands

Active Member
I have an aircooled hood in my tent but i dont even have ducting plugged into it right now. I just have my inline blowing air outside from the top of the tent, and a CF attatched to the side of the inline that is sucking air. perfect temps
 

nickwin

Well-Known Member
I agree. I think this is part of your problem
First of all, thanks for the help guys... I guess the next question is, will moving the inline I have to the end of the chain (right before it vents outside) be enough, or am I going to have to leave the one I have where it is and add another at the exit? Keep in mind the fan I have is rated at 500CFM in a 100 cu/ft tent, so I would think it should be enough. Obviously not doing the trick in its current set up though.
 

Ringsixty

Well-Known Member
All I can say @ this point. is why don't you just move the fan to the other end of your setup. Just for shits and giggles... :eyesmoke: Never know till you try.
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
Any bend in ducting is efficiency lost from your fan.

15% lost for every 90degree bend.

15% lost for every 10ft of ducting.

20% lost from adding a carbon filter.

Which of these three is the only one you can't live without?

Right your carbon filter!

Remove any 90degree bends and try to replace with nothing smaller than 120degrees. With a 120bend you only loose around 5% efficienc.


Your 500cfm fan with attached filter and 2 90bends reduces down to around 250-300cfm.




J
 

bigmanc

Well-Known Member
Move your fan, trust me. Read everyones post. There saying "Pull" and not "Push". Fuck i had a 6'' before it blew a barring and i had to buy a inline fan dial to turn it all the way down. I have a 1000w hps w/ digital ballast.
 

nickwin

Well-Known Member
Any bend in ducting is efficiency lost from your fan.

15% lost for every 90degree bend.

15% lost for every 10ft of ducting.

20% lost from adding a carbon filter.

Which of these three is the only one you can't live without?

Right your carbon filter!

Remove any 90degree bends and try to replace with nothing smaller than 120degrees. With a 120bend you only loose around 5% efficienc.


Your 500cfm fan with attached filter and 2 90bends reduces down to around 250-300cfm.




J
Unfortunately, with the way the vents are in the tent, there is no way for me totally get rid of the bends and still be able to move the light up and down.

Another question though, even if I am only getting 250cfm, shouldn't that still keep my room cooler than what I am seeing. Seems like the CFM would have to be even lower to get the temps I am seeing. I am going to follow all your advice and the first thing I am going to try is to move the inline to the end of the chain and see what that does. Now I am wishing I wouldn't have used so much foil tape lol. Going to be a real pain to move the fan. I'll post an update after I make the change.
 
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