PetFlora
Well-Known Member
FYI: My plant leafs reach for the light, and I do not yet have the Ultra/Floros. They also were reaching when I only used Quantum grow bulbs
LED Without LEDs -My First T5 Grow
- Thread starter pr0fesseur
- Start date
Undercover Cop
Active Member
If youre running a certain array of bulbs over seedlings and theyre growing slowly, then you switch tubes and they take off, they may have simply established their roots and had a growth spurt... Plants utilize different wavelengths at different stages of growth. Switching tubes every two weeks will show nothing scientific, will only prove that the tubes you use aren't harmful. The only way to prove a tube combo is superior would be to use it for the full length of veg (or a complete grow would be even better). Then grow the same strain under a different combo and observe the difference (size/development at the same age). I had plants right next to each other, same strain/age/conditions, one would be reaching for the light one day then relaxed the next, while the plants right next to it would be the opposite. I'll never suggest a superior combo cuz its may be different for everyone depending on conditions/strain/desired results at harvest (quality for med, yield for cash). It takes quite a while to be able to observe a specific response to a change in the lighting.
I had a flowering female that sprouted bananas so I pulled he/she, put it in the garage and forgot about it for like 2 weeks. Complete darkness for 2 weeks and the leaves were barely even drooping. Actually looked pretty healthy, with no light for 2 weeks. Something to think about.
I had a flowering female that sprouted bananas so I pulled he/she, put it in the garage and forgot about it for like 2 weeks. Complete darkness for 2 weeks and the leaves were barely even drooping. Actually looked pretty healthy, with no light for 2 weeks. Something to think about.
BlueB
Active Member
What is your current mixture of light bulbs if you don't mind me asking you?
BlueB
Active Member
I have already switched back to the 50/50. I can just tell that the plants like it better. It really must have something to do with the strain why everyone else has been getting results with the other bulbs. I'm going to stick with the 50/50 through the rest of the grow. I can't afford to risk losing the new cuttings I've taken. The growth rate I'm getting has just been phenomenal to say the least so why change?
BlueB
Active Member
Anyone know what is going on with this leaf? A few of my plants have some leaves like this. I thought it might be a high pH issue with some new soil mix I was trying recently. Maybe it is a heat issue? It's only on the midsection fan leaves. I've posted in the Plant Problems thread, but no one knows over there.
hyroot
Well-Known Member
That looks like either too much heat or some nutes got spilled on it.
BlueB
Active Member
It sure seems like it! I've taken the Blue Plus back out now, 4 hours later the leaves are reaching up again. I sure don't get this, I thought the added blue light would make them grow even faster. It really must be the strain because this particular one can't get enough of the 50/50.
mipainpatient
Active Member
I agree that Ed was making the point you just made yea. But "better job" is the subjective part. I have very good understanding of the quality limitations of HIDs and I assure you PAR approach will produce the finest medicine possible (not the MOST as with many industries/processes, quality/quantity ratio is a choice not an obligation) for the least Kwatts, something that matters more to some of us than others as electricity rates vary greatly from region to region. Although I don't believe the disclaimer is 100% necessary but here it is:
assuming EVERYTHING ELSE is dialed in you should see a dramatic improvement in "quality" both medicinal compound content and terpenoid content from dialed in Red/Blue/UV/IR spectrums, which may even just involve supplementing your HID with some side-riding t5 units. There are tons of possible DIY units and daisy-chain units that you could integrate into ANY setup.
The point is that you are using hard science (PAR has lots of great research behind it) to dial in your personal results, which is hopefully what you are here for.
Not at all tryin to rip into ya, if it sounds like I'm ranting its to reiterate points for the benefit of anyone who comes across our shared work of art (thread).
Also remember this, if your area is large enough (or your reflective surface is far enough away) you could have the baddest-ass HID in the 'hood but its a point source light so its an uneven distribution with losses literally floating through the air (air-light scattering)
Also again, before you start trying to dial in your yields ANY other way, do a run in a 5gallon+ smart pot and see what you get.
Word,
MPP
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
UVL Aqua Sun + ATI Aquablue Special + UVL Red Life + ATI Aquablue Special + Red Life + Coral Wave + Quantum Grow + Quantum Flower. I just swapped out a second Coral Wave for the Quantum Flower, as it seemed to be bleaching the leafs and my 3ed Red Life died, limiting my choice
PetFlora
Well-Known Member
DM sells Liquid Light and Saturator (expensive combo) foliar feeds that react the same way
hyroot
Well-Known Member
Liquid light...... Yeah I've used that before. I was the guinea pig for my local shop. It works really great but you have to buy that penetrator or saturator depending on where you buy it. Seen with either labels. I think they changed the name at one point. and mix them and spray every other day. I went through it in a month. It works great and I definitely saw a positive difference but it costs way too much. Liquid light - $60, Penetrator - $50.you have to use up the whole mix you make. Once it mixes together. It starts breaking down rather quickly.
MurshDawg
Active Member
You can sub out wet betty, Humbolt sticky, or any other "wetting agent". That saves you a little scratch... I had to get DM reverse because I had a plant hermie on me. I subbed out saturator for wetbetty (had it on hand anyways). It worked remarkably!
ohiogrown03
Member
agreed, I'd lean towards heat because I had the same thing a little over a month ago. When i got solution on them it bleached it white more than the yellow/brown
overTHEman
Active Member
My personal rule of thumb is to wait until the second set of 5 fingered leaves are visible before changing anything about the plant's environment. Opinions will vary here but if you think they're old enough - go for it!
...
Week 8
Here's the latest: the end of the lifecycle of Ms Headband is approaching, phew. As this is a new experience and things have gone horribly awry, harvesting anything from this plant will be deemed a huge success.
Happy PAR Growing.
