Clones wont root +rep (pics)

spex420

Well-Known Member
pictures are worth a 1000 words so ill just show you what i got going

IMG_20120118_031511.jpgIMG_20120118_031519.jpgIMG_20120118_031547.jpgIMG_20120118_031611.jpg

step by step.

i clip the clone place in a cup of water after i get 5 or 6 clipped i go to work on em

i start by cutting a 45 degree angle off of em dip them back in the water slice a little of the .skin.? off the bottom of where i cut for more surface area make a cut down the middle dip in water again dip in olivias cloning jel then dip in shultz takeroot powder stick in rapid rooter plug spray with water n soak the plug cut tips off and move to the next

i use a exacto surgical knife that i wipe with a alcohol pad i wear gloves i use all the same sterile practices i use with fungi
i like to keep water in the bottom of the chamber for extra humidity as far as i know i have done everything right

only 1 think that pops out in my mind when i did these clones i didnt treat the water with a ph solution so the ph was prolly around 7.1 other then that do you have any idea what im doing wrong?



my plants got really burned up one day im not gonna get into how i clipped off all the plant had in the way of clones and killed her she was in veg and was showing female preflowers strange... auto flower maybe? so i didnt want a few potential girls to go to waste

im at a loss here guys i wanted to get a little practice in before i start cutting up my northern lights mothers i havent checked all of them only about 3/10 its prolly been alittle more then a week and not the slightest sign of roots +rep to anyone who gives feedback
 

specialk2

Member
general rule of thumb is you want to give yourself at least 3 node sites on each clone... i always ph my water for clones regardless... the heat pad is a great feature... spray the top of the clone box with water everyday to keep humidity up... i never fill the chamber up with water, it could lead to mold buildup or just a buildup from the rooters you use... i check at least once a day if not twice if the rooters need water, if so, just get a cup or glass full of ph'd water and dip the rooter in it, squeezing gently a few times to make sure the whole rooter is getting water and not just the outside surface... monitor temps... the way you are cutting and maintaining the cleanliness is good... it might take you 2 weeks to get roots, rooters are kinda a pain, but be patient and keep an eye on them... hope this helps and gl m8
 

jeffdamann

Active Member
What exactly are you using there for your clones man? Are you sure you've got enough aeration and that the water is at a proper temperature?
 

GenePerfect

Active Member
Cant help too much. Lotsa things can reduce chances of clones taking. When were they taken? Ive had a few just wilt almost directly after been put into rockwool and not recover, try covering them with plastic or glass to crank up the humidity, putting a cut in half coke bottle over one of mine showed signs of improvement...
 

stumps

Well-Known Member
temps are one thing you need right on. I find 79-81 with my bubble cloner. I use well water that runs 7.2 never do a thing to the water. I have used powders and gels but if your temps are right they will root fast.
 

spex420

Well-Known Member
my room stays about 64-75 with the pad temps are in the 80s in that dome with the water and consistent spraying the dome stays humid enough to wilt seedlings i put in, the clones look healthy no wilting they just arent rooting
 

jeffdamann

Active Member
Ninja Edit: Ok I see what you are doing, but what is below the styrofoam? Just a tray of standing water? Because if so, thats not good at all....


temps are one thing you need right on. I find 79-81 with my bubble cloner. I use well water that runs 7.2 never do a thing to the water. I have used powders and gels but if your temps are right they will root fast.
This is why I asked about aeration and temperature. Ive always used bubble cloners with 100% success until now. Reason being, I decided to play minimalist in the Aeration and Temperature departments and am now at a 0% success rate.

Obviously aeration and temperature are very vital areas to the process.

I would have to agree again with Stumps temperature range, but it seems a BIT high, I would aim for 75-78 in the resevoir.
 

ismokealotofpot

New Member

  • i made a hydro cloner for about 40 bucks. I use clonex gel and gently score the stem with my razor blade all the way around this helps the gel soak in dont cut into it you just want to scratch it. If you cut below a leaf node and cut the leaf tips on that node, you can get roots to come out of the nodes.i never take a clone smaller than 10 inches. and one more thing never dip a clone in the container that has the root hormone it will contaminate it. i did that once and ruined a full bottle of clonex.​


 

stumps

Well-Known Member
Don't think you want to be much over 80 in the root zone. my cloner is a pain sometimes but when I get temps dialed in the thing roots fast, a day or two. When i don't see roots starting in a day or two I tweek the temps to get as close to 80 as I can. I've played with them up to two weeks, After that I start again. Yes I would go 78-80. Now my readings could be off a little You'll just have to tweek till you get it.
 

spex420

Well-Known Member
i honestly don't know what the temp is i can stick my probe in there for a while to see humidity makes it feel hotter anyways all i know is when i open that joker up it feels like a rain forest the water evaporates a few hours the t5 hits that black bottem and drys it up my rooters have been getting dry really fast bcuz of it so i had to wing it
 

Thedillestpickle

Well-Known Member
Let your rooters become almost dry after about a week from the time the cuttings are taken. the cuttings start their roots as little nubs that form along the stem, but sometimes it takes a long time for those numbs to decide to shoot out into actual roots. I suck at cloning but in the limited experience I have had, letting the medium get a little closer to dry helps encourage the nubs to shoots out into roots.
 

spex420

Well-Known Member
i really would rather not getting into the whole hydro/aero scene yet im not too good with math and somthing tells me i would blow a bunch of money and end up effing it all up so if i can get this to work i'll be golden
 

Thedillestpickle

Well-Known Member
well youll know for sure its too hot when all the stems flop over and all the leaves wilt lol happened to me using one of those heat pads. Also the greenhouse effect with the humidity dome traps all the heat in there. So long as high humidity is maintained and your temps dont kill them, the cuttings should eventually root even if it takes a while.
 

Thedillestpickle

Well-Known Member
Not sure dry is the right word, but maybe more air
I didnt mean dry. if theres no moisture at all then your fucked... but once the roots start to form they are very effecient at sucking moisture out of a very "dry"(very slightly moist) medium. Gotta keep it a little more moist for the start to let those nubs start
 

spex420

Well-Known Member
IMG_20120118_041315.jpg
its been about a week n they look good no wilting they r just chilling its kinda aggravating that its all they are doing.
 

stumps

Well-Known Member
lol Sorry. This is what happens when you get old and blind. Thought that was a blubber set up. I would loose the heating pad all together, and yes with soil you only want it moist not wet. with or with out a dome I mist with a spray bottle at least twice a day a little more with out a dome.
 

specialk2

Member
before i switched over to the ez-cloner i always used a heat pad for my rooters, as i said before focus on humidity, moisture, and light... no nutes at all right now... they are the idea is for the roots to pop and search for nutes... be patient they are coming, might be slow, but the clones look healthy, small but healthy
 

vilify

Well-Known Member
i had some issues with my clones, till i took out the heating pad.

if the rooms sitting in the 70's you really dont need a pad.
 
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