Bloomingdale81
Member
I run the whole line up with air stones and don't have any isues
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I run the whole line up with air stones and don't have any isues
Bloomingdale81
Member
Are you mixing according to the directions?
Mix a wait 15min then mix b
If you add Calmag... Do it first before adding A
also check your res temps try to keep it under 70
Mix a wait 15min then mix b
If you add Calmag... Do it first before adding A
also check your res temps try to keep it under 70
Thedillestpickle
Well-Known Member
where are these "directions"? Ive never seen them and they certainly arent on the bottles I have. Is there a website for this stuff so I don't miss anything important? Ive also heard this 15 minute waiting period from another grower.
Can anyone explain why airstones would bring a nutrient out of solution? I also read this advice given on the H&G FAQ
Thanks guys, but I'm sure that all my perimeters are spot on. I run a sealed room, chiller, dehumid, ac, etc. My res temps stay between 66-69f. And yes, I do wait the 15 min.
I've been running HG base nutes for a long time (4years), I remember days when HG instructed not to use air stones. I'm in hydroton, and my roots are not submerged, so I just keep the stones off, no big deal.
I just wanted to make my fellow HG growers to be aware that if they notice stuff coming out of solution it might be the air stones, that's all.
I've been running HG base nutes for a long time (4years), I remember days when HG instructed not to use air stones. I'm in hydroton, and my roots are not submerged, so I just keep the stones off, no big deal.
I just wanted to make my fellow HG growers to be aware that if they notice stuff coming out of solution it might be the air stones, that's all.
Thedillestpickle
Well-Known Member
of course? I doubt they will have a feed schedule geared towards autoflowers, but you can interpret the data a little different to suit your needs. How long do autos flower for?
Someday Please
Member
Hey guys..... i am new to posting, this would be my first. but i have been reading on here for quite sometime. I just got done with this thread up to current and have a few questions.
1. when applying top booster do you need to raise your lights to avoid making them all crispy? it was mentioned once earlier in this thread.
2. This question is for the coco guys out there. the flush between top booster and shooting powder? should you cut your E.C. down so that they eat the remainder before your next days feed.
1. when applying top booster do you need to raise your lights to avoid making them all crispy? it was mentioned once earlier in this thread.
2. This question is for the coco guys out there. the flush between top booster and shooting powder? should you cut your E.C. down so that they eat the remainder before your next days feed.
Redbird1223
Active Member
Hey everyone, my question is about mixing nutrients. do I go by hg's directions (2-18 ml per gallon) or do I go by ppms? When we mix to manufacturers specs, using r/o water, my ppms are very low. I have to use about 20 ml per gallon just to hit 840 ppm, and I just entered flowering so I want to be closer to 1200 until week 4 or 5 when bud xl is called for. I paid a lot of money for this lineup and I really don't want to burn my plants has anyone else had this problem.
Also, anyone know why there's a 15 min wait between a and b. Seems ridiculous. Thanks everyone for your help.
Also, anyone know why there's a 15 min wait between a and b. Seems ridiculous. Thanks everyone for your help.
Bloomingdale81
Member
1. No
2. I flush every other week in flw and then every week when using shooting powder. In your case,if you flushed the week before then you don't need to between top booster and first week of SP
Ok, I use more like 10ml/gal in max flw. Ppms and ec are different. When h&g say 840ppm they are using a .7 conversion factor & generally most people assume its .5
this means an ec of 1.2=840 on a .7 and 600 on a .5
so be sure to go through the setti gs on your ppm pen to see what conversion factor you are using
The other thing about mixing is so that all the calcium in A dissolves before mixing in the B which has sulfur. If mixed together in concentrate they will form a salt (gypsum) and drop out of solution
Redbird1223
Active Member
Bloomingdale81 - thank you for the breakdown. I had no idea there where different conversions for ppm. I knew something was going on, it felt wrong to use more than whats recommended especially when everyone else says they run it at 3/4 strength. Plus every time I feed them, they turn yellow at the tips so I must be causing a lockout. Going to play with ppm pen and research more about this. I'm sure I'll be back to double check things. Thanks again
Thedillestpickle
Well-Known Member
thats frustrating... stupid how you could have multiple systems with the same names, like gallons and galons. or ounces fluid ounces and troy ounces....
Ok so I have a ppm meter that doesnt specify if it is .7 or .5 and I have a ppm1000 solution that doesnt specify what system it is for... WTF! thats some stupid shit
Redbird1223
Active Member
My meter is a HM digital Tds-3 temp/ppm pen. I looked at the pen and the instructions and I do not have the option to change to .7 or .5 so I will have to find a conversion chart. My pen seems to be a .5 pen and most grow charts seem to be in .7 format.
bloomingdale81, thanks for explaining the a and b thing and also what is "max flw"? Do you mean thats your max strength during flowering or is that the system you use?
bloomingdale81, thanks for explaining the a and b thing and also what is "max flw"? Do you mean thats your max strength during flowering or is that the system you use?
Redbird1223
Active Member
Just found this on another site
senseless
06-21-2006, 02:30 AM
i think this will help a lot of growers.
ppms are confusing as hell i think. let me try and explain.
ppm is a calculation of EC or CF.
CF= EC multiplied by 10. ex, 1.0ec x 10 = 10CF
ec = CF divided by 10. ex, 10CF divided by 10 = 1.0 EC
the problem with ppm is that its not a standardized way of taking readings so almost every product manufacture has a different way of measuring ppm. in other words thier ppm conversion factor.
a .7 factor is actually called a 442 conversion factor wich is approximately 700 multiplied by EC.
a .5 factor or the NaCl conversion factor wich is approximately 500 multiplied by EC.
depending on wich type of TDS meter you use it will use either a .5 or .7 conversion factor. this is why some people get different readings with different meters.
lets say your nutreint solution was 1.0 EC
using the .7 conversion factor your ppm would be 700.
using the .5 conversion factor your ppm would be 500.
heres a conversion chart i made up,
(EC)------(PPM.5)---------(PPM.7)-------(CF)
.4---------200-------------280-----------4-----seedling/ rooted clones
.6---------300-------------420-----------6-----
.8---------400-------------560-----------8-----veg
1.0--------500-------------700----------10
1.2--------600-------------840----------12
1.4--------700-------------980----------14
1.6--------800-------------1120---------16-----aggressive
1.8--------900-------------1260---------18
2.0--------1000------------1400---------20-----super aggressive
2.2--------1100------------1540---------22
2.4--------1200------------1680---------24-----be carefull after this point!!
2.8--------1400------------1960---------28
3.2--------1600------------2240---------32
3.6--------1800------------2520---------36
4.0--------2000------------2800---------40
4.4--------2200------------3080---------44
senseless
06-21-2006, 02:30 AM
i think this will help a lot of growers.
ppms are confusing as hell i think. let me try and explain.
ppm is a calculation of EC or CF.
CF= EC multiplied by 10. ex, 1.0ec x 10 = 10CF
ec = CF divided by 10. ex, 10CF divided by 10 = 1.0 EC
the problem with ppm is that its not a standardized way of taking readings so almost every product manufacture has a different way of measuring ppm. in other words thier ppm conversion factor.
a .7 factor is actually called a 442 conversion factor wich is approximately 700 multiplied by EC.
a .5 factor or the NaCl conversion factor wich is approximately 500 multiplied by EC.
depending on wich type of TDS meter you use it will use either a .5 or .7 conversion factor. this is why some people get different readings with different meters.
lets say your nutreint solution was 1.0 EC
using the .7 conversion factor your ppm would be 700.
using the .5 conversion factor your ppm would be 500.
heres a conversion chart i made up,
(EC)------(PPM.5)---------(PPM.7)-------(CF)
.4---------200-------------280-----------4-----seedling/ rooted clones
.6---------300-------------420-----------6-----
.8---------400-------------560-----------8-----veg
1.0--------500-------------700----------10
1.2--------600-------------840----------12
1.4--------700-------------980----------14
1.6--------800-------------1120---------16-----aggressive
1.8--------900-------------1260---------18
2.0--------1000------------1400---------20-----super aggressive
2.2--------1100------------1540---------22
2.4--------1200------------1680---------24-----be carefull after this point!!
2.8--------1400------------1960---------28
3.2--------1600------------2240---------32
3.6--------1800------------2520---------36
4.0--------2000------------2800---------40
4.4--------2200------------3080---------44
Bloomingdale81
Member
Yeah max flw is max feeding during flowering. Just hit 1800+ in second wk of using shooting powder and the chem4's love it
Redbird1223
Active Member
Thank you so much for letting me know about the conversion factors. literally, you just saved me from killing the whole garden!
Bloomingdale81
Member
Glad to help
Thedillestpickle
Well-Known Member
lol wow so I've been feeding my plants at 1540ppm since they were 3 weeks old(with .7 conversion)! I'ts amazing they are still alive! Have some pretty good burns lower down and magnesium deficiency happening probably as a side effect of the high ppm. my runoff has been coming out at 2000ppm(after conversion to .7) holy crap.
I looked it up and my ppm meter is .5 conversion... damn lol
Will the plants still yeild just as much if they have a few weeks to recover at normal ppm and still 3 weeks away from flower? or have I already stunted my harvest?
Bloomingdale81
Member
I wouldn't worry about it if you haven't started flowering yet. I would just veg them another week to make sure they are strong before flowering.