Molasses

mrhicks

Member
Missnu thanks so much for taking the time to copy / paste the article i red it very good detail thsnk you and on the note of ppl being unfriendly when i first posted dudes were real ass-clowns to me but like all things in life there are good ppl and bad ppl thanks for all your comments and peace out
 

mrhicks

Member
Missnu thanks so much for taking the time to copy / paste the article i red it very good detail thsnk you and on the note of ppl being unfriendly when i first posted dudes were real ass-clowns to me but like all things in life there are good ppl and bad ppl thanks for all your comments and peace out
 

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
I never insulted him. I was givin an opinion which has been crucufied by the mad scientist. Like I said I am a first time grower, one step at a time, I dont need a bible and as u can tell my plant, the only one I have in flower, looks good. Never said I was better, never called anyone names. Now, if you guys dont like the opinion and you just cant say why it's good and you gotta go off like you actually know something and then you insult me. Watever dickweed. Simple answers for the 99%'s. I have read a lot of post were people agree with me. Do u want rollitup to be known as a cronfrontational, rude, judgemental, circle of people. Is ther a criteria now, u have to have a college education in horticulture just to participate. Yes his bible on molasses was good, but it was to much info.
then you should have never said anything at all. what in your mind tells you its cool to tell someone to get a life because they posted an article too long for you to read. ??? 99% want opinions , facts, and experience. not just "molasses is great for plants".

rollitup is already known as disrespectful kids to all of the smaller , respectful sites. you are the reason. go calm down a lil .... i think moms got dinner ready anyway.

I never insulted him. I was givin an opinion
First, missnu, that was a very nice way to explain molasses. Trichome fiend get a life. I am sick of the Rollitup community being either this mad scientist that us newbies don't understand or just plain rude and unproductive. The guy asked a pretty simple question and u fucked it up.
By copying and pasting an answer like that we are all dumber for participating in this forum. Just remember this site is to help, to much unneeded info causes greater stupidity. Keep It Simple Stupid.
so this is what you call an opinion ?
yea some people cant handle their meds. you not only disrespected the shit outta this dude , you even went as far as to get mad over a good post. :spew:



ok im done fuckin this dudes thread all up , if you need help with anything else just ask.





soil :lol:
 

trichome fiend

Well-Known Member
I never insulted him. I was givin an opinion which has been crucufied by the mad scientist. Like I said I am a first time grower, one step at a time, I dont need a bible and as u can tell my plant, the only one I have in flower, looks good. Never said I was better, never called anyone names. Now, if you guys dont like the opinion and you just cant say why it's good and you gotta go off like you actually know something and then you insult me. Watever dickweed. Simple answers for the 99%'s. I have read a lot of post were people agree with me. Do u want rollitup to be known as a cronfrontational, rude, judgemental, circle of people. Is ther a criteria now, u have to have a college education in horticulture just to participate. Yes his bible on molasses was good, but it was to much info.

...however you see it is fine with me, I really wasn't trying to overwhelm you with information...being an older fella', seems as though you would've realized by now that you have to sacrifice a little bit of your time to read in order to understand something through text. I'm sure the original poster is seeking a 'higher learning' of gardening and wanted indept info about molasses, not, "molasses works, because it does'.

...all in all, I apologize for getting off on the wrong foot with you....RIU isn't all dat bad pappy....I'm still willing to help, if ya want it. ;)
 

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
there we go , nice an mature about things. we are all on the same page (or at least chapter) so its not hard to get along an debate things rather then argue. we can make this a good place an change what the other sites think about riu.




much love to all and god bless ! .....soil
 

kvnbeach

Active Member
...however you see it is fine with me, I really wasn't trying to overwhelm you with information...being an older fella', seems as though you would've realized by now that you have to sacrifice a little bit of your time to read in order to understand something through text. I'm sure the original poster is seeking a 'higher learning' of gardening and wanted indept info about molasses, not, "molasses works, because it does'.

...all in all, I apologize for getting off on the wrong foot with you....RIU isn't all dat bad pappy....I'm still willing to help, if ya want it. ;)
Well then I am man enough to let by gones be by gones. I apologize if I offended u. See now I understand what u guys mean by trolls. The ones that just want to disrupt the process. When I first started growing 3 months ago I thought it would be easy. Well it is easy, it's just that so much info for us newbies can be a little overwhelming. I was given my lights, 250halide and a 400hps so I have only spent $150. Oops, better double that number, because I just bought a growlab80. The guy who gave me everything has grown for 20years, yet he has told me nothing. He'll still get a nice sack for his generosity.

Now that I am a month out for harvest, I started a couple of feminized seeds of "Orange Crush" I am doing 22hours of light(250w). One seedling is 9 days old the other just popped out of the dirt today. How long should I wait before going to 18hours of light? I realize this is up for debate, but I am going to do 18/6, so I am curious when u think I should switch? Someone also said u shouldn't use nutes on ur seedlings until the smooth leaves yellow? Yes I have more questions but this isn't my thread. Hey man I built custom homes for 30years, so I should be able to figure this out. Dont u think she is beautiful.



Mr. Clean Feb.7, 2012 003.jpgMr. Clean Feb.7, 2012 011.jpgMr. Clean Feb.7, 2012 009.jpgMr. Clean Feb.7, 2012 007.jpg"Mr. Clean"
 

boneheadbob

Well-Known Member
Here is a great link that will help answer questions.
http://www.onlinepot.org/OGStrainGuide/ogfaq/GrowFAQ_Basic_Topics.htm

. How long should I wait before going to 18hours of light? I realize this is up for debate, but I am going to do 18/6, so I am curious when u think I should switch? Someone also said u shouldn't use nutes on ur seedlings until the smooth leaves yellow? Yes I have more questions but this isn't my thread. Hey man I built custom homes for 30years, so I should be able to figure this out. Dont u think she is beautiful.
 

trichome fiend

Well-Known Member
Well then I am man enough to let by gones be by gones. I apologize if I offended u. See now I understand what u guys mean by trolls. The ones that just want to disrupt the process. When I first started growing 3 months ago I thought it would be easy. Well it is easy, it's just that so much info for us newbies can be a little overwhelming. I was given my lights, 250halide and a 400hps so I have only spent $150. Oops, better double that number, because I just bought a growlab80. The guy who gave me everything has grown for 20years, yet he has told me nothing. He'll still get a nice sack for his generosity.

Now that I am a month out for harvest, I started a couple of feminized seeds of "Orange Crush" I am doing 22hours of light(250w). One seedling is 9 days old the other just popped out of the dirt today. How long should I wait before going to 18hours of light? I realize this is up for debate, but I am going to do 18/6, so I am curious when u think I should switch? Someone also said u shouldn't use nutes on ur seedlings until the smooth leaves yellow? Yes I have more questions but this isn't my thread. Hey man I built custom homes for 30years, so I should be able to figure this out. Dont u think she is beautiful.



View attachment 2046236View attachment 2046240View attachment 2046239View attachment 2046237"Mr. Clean"

...your plants look good!
...cannabis can be easily grown, absolutely...in fact, it's a near task to kill cannabis...some call it weed, and just like a weed it's determined to live. I had a nice yield my first grow also, I treated it just as a veggy garden plant....but the taste was not good, I had seeds, I over dried my buds and had no clue how to cure, the buds looked sooooo fat on the plant it broke my heart when they dried to less than 1/4 size :( .... after a couple years of growing you'll excel...you'll look back and remember your 1st grow and think, "what the fuck was I doing, and why?" ;)

...some of the worlds best growers dwell right here on RIU.

...so, let's start with simple questions. I see your foilage (leaves) are turning yellow....although it is very common and mostly perfered by most growers for their leaves to yellow at the near end of flowering, your plants look a tad bit 'young' to be discolored thus far.
...what kind of soil are you using?
...have you added any fertilizers?
...what is your water source?

...I believe the OP's question about molasses has been answered and hopefully doesn't mind the Q: and A:
 

trichome fiend

Well-Known Member
yoOOOO IS HUMBOLT HONEY UNSULFERED MOLLASSES??????? I WAS WONDERING CUZ PEOPLE SAID THAT IS THE MOLLASSES U WANT TO USE???
here's what I found on it, it sounds like molasses with some additives.

[h=3]Guaranteed Analysis[/h]Soluble Potash (K20)……………………………..………………….…..1.0%
Sulfur (S)………………………………………………………………….0.5%
0.5% Combined Sulfur
Derived From: Ascophyllum nodosum seaweed, Lignin
ALSO CONTAINS NON-PLANT FOOD INGREDIENTS:
10% Molasses, 5% Glucose, 2% Yucca Extract.
 

boneheadbob

Well-Known Member
Sulfur (S)………………………………………………………………….0.5%
0.5% Combined Sulfur
Derived From: Ascophyllum nodosum seaweed, Lignin
.
Without going back, I believe your first post said the refined molasses is a great source of sulpher?
edit it does say that which leads me to believe HH has a real crappy source of molasses with no sulpher or HH has very little Ascophyllum nodosum seaweed, Lignin
because it mentions combined sulfer.


I am still learning :hump:
 

kvnbeach

Active Member
...your plants look good!
...cannabis can be easily grown, absolutely...in fact, it's a near task to kill cannabis...some call it weed, and just like a weed it's determined to live. I had a nice yield my first grow also, I treated it just as a veggy garden plant....but the taste was not good, I had seeds, I over dried my buds and had no clue how to cure, the buds looked sooooo fat on the plant it broke my heart when they dried to less than 1/4 size :( .... after a couple years of growing you'll excel...you'll look back and remember your 1st grow and think, "what the fuck was I doing, and why?" ;)

...some of the worlds best growers dwell right here on RIU.

...so, let's start with simple questions. I see your foilage (leaves) are turning yellow....although it is very common and mostly perfered by most growers for their leaves to yellow at the near end of flowering, your plants look a tad bit 'young' to be discolored thus far.
...what kind of soil are you using?
...have you added any fertilizers?
...what is your water source?

...I believe the OP's question about molasses has been answered and hopefully doesn't mind the Q: and A:
Yes, I do think the leaves are yellowing a liitle to early, but it is only the bottom fan leaves I believe I am root bound and water can't escape. She's in a 5 gallon container. I used miracle grow for dirt and I use Advanced Nutes. I have sensi-grow A and B and I have sensi-bloom part A & B. 1 teaspoon per gallon and I water every 2nd or 3rd day. I am on ground water. So no additives and it has a ph level of 6.5. I have done nothing else to it. So do you think I should drill some new holes in the container? It looks like the plant is drowning. She only has 3 maybe 4 weeks left, maybe less?
I've been wishing someone would notice that and talk to me about it. There may be nothing wrong with the plant.
Sensi Grow Part A:3-0-0 Sensi-Grow Part B:2-2-5
Sensi-Bloom Part A:4-0-4 Sensi-Bloom Part B:1-5-6

 

Sunbiz1

Well-Known Member
Hi all,

Just wanted to add something important when using molasses, you can use too much. The following pics are what happened when I decided to use 1/4 cup per gal last summer. This plant was a monster, almost 9'. I figured there was no way it could be harmed with all the surrounding vegetation etc...wrong!. It caused a N lockout, took me a month to correct it. As you can see, it actually was transpiring. Rather than feeding it N that it wasn't using, I took a balanced approach with a straight 10-10-10. It was a guess at the time, fortunately it worked.

Peace!
 

Attachments

trichome fiend

Well-Known Member
Yes, I do think the leaves are yellowing a liitle to early, but it is only the bottom fan leaves I believe I am root bound and water can't escape. She's in a 5 gallon container. I used miracle grow for dirt and I use Advanced Nutes. I have sensi-grow A and B and I have sensi-bloom part A & B. 1 teaspoon per gallon and I water every 2nd or 3rd day. I am on ground water. So no additives and it has a ph level of 6.5. I have done nothing else to it. So do you think I should drill some new holes in the container? It looks like the plant is drowning. She only has 3 maybe 4 weeks left, maybe less?
I've been wishing someone would notice that and talk to me about it. There may be nothing wrong with the plant.
Sensi Grow Part A:3-0-0 Sensi-Grow Part B:2-2-5
Sensi-Bloom Part A:4-0-4 Sensi-Bloom Part B:1-5-6

...I've honestly found it hard to properly diagnose a cannabis plant when problem occur since nutrient toxicities, deficiencies, and pH issues can go hand in hand...especially when your using additives, it can be hard to point out the culprit.
...I will tell you this much...the miracle grow soil has time released fertilizers in it that open with waterings....the wetter your soil is, the faster those fertilizer capsules will open...the fertilizers that are released are synthetic salts that are acidic on a pH scale, and thus lowers your soil's pH when they open.
...I personally would pick better soil, true organic soil that will only require transplants and waterings.....such as Fox Farm's Ocean Forest, Roots Organics, exc...
...you can simply start your seedlings off in very small containers with a 'light soil', such as Fox Farm's Light Warrior or Promix (seedling heating mat will help germination)....after a couple weeks, transplant into a slightly larger pot (say 1 gallon) filled with a stronger soil such as the FFOF, RO....after 3 weeks or so, you could then transplant into a slightly larger pot (say 2 gallons) of FFOF, RO.....you can follow this process all the way through harvest and you'll get superior quality results that when dried/cured properly can compare with the best of growers....using water only throughout the whole grow.

...do not add salts, chlorine, or any preservatives to your water, this will dehydrate/kill the microorganisms in the soil.

...I've created a thread titled, "soil food web gardening, with compost teas" you might find informative....here's the link ---> https://www.rollitup.org/organics/427826-soil-food-web-gardening-compost.html
 

kvnbeach

Active Member
...I've honestly found it hard to properly diagnose a cannabis plant when problem occur since nutrient toxicities, deficiencies, and pH issues can go hand in hand...especially when your using additives, it can be hard to point out the culprit.
...I will tell you this much...the miracle grow soil has time released fertilizers in it that open with waterings....the wetter your soil is, the faster those fertilizer capsules will open...the fertilizers that are released are synthetic salts that are acidic on a pH scale, and thus lowers your soil's pH when they open.
...I personally would pick better soil, true organic soil that will only require transplants and waterings.....such as Fox Farm's Ocean Forest, Roots Organics, exc...
...you can simply start your seedlings off in very small containers with a 'light soil', such as Fox Farm's Light Warrior or Promix (seedling heating mat will help germination)....after a couple weeks, transplant into a slightly larger pot (say 1 gallon) filled with a stronger soil such as the FFOF, RO....after 3 weeks or so, you could then transplant into a slightly larger pot (say 2 gallons) of FFOF, RO.....you can follow this process all the way through harvest and you'll get superior quality results that when dried/cured properly can compare with the best of growers....using water only throughout the whole grow.

...do not add salts, chlorine, or any preservatives to your water, this will dehydrate/kill the microorganisms in the soil.

...I've created a thread titled, "soil food web gardening, with compost teas" you might find informative....here's the link ---> https://www.rollitup.org/organics/427826-soil-food-web-gardening-compost.html
Thanks. I will check it out. Someone else suggested that I use fish emulsion. Problem is when I water, theres no drainage. It used to drain. I poured 3/4 of a gallon of water into the 5 gallon pot and nothing came out. Should I buy a bigger pot and put dirt in the bottom of this. I am going to try the fish emulsion too.
 

trichome fiend

Well-Known Member
Thanks. I will check it out. Someone else suggested that I use fish emulsion. Problem is when I water, theres no drainage. It used to drain. I poured 3/4 of a gallon of water into the 5 gallon pot and nothing came out. Should I buy a bigger pot and put dirt in the bottom of this. I am going to try the fish emulsion too.
...with your present grow, I would give it water only until harvest....your pretty far along, I'd just make plans for your next round ;)
 

PassItPlz

Member
the molasses mix I made last week is smelling like vinegar, does anyone know if it's still good? It has not hurt anything so far
 
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