bird mcbride
Well-Known Member
I do F&D in lava rock/clay gravel. Anyone is welcome to visit my posts if they ever get the site working properly again. There aren't any threads.
It's A Fuct World
- Thread starter Al B. Fuct
- Start date
Hey guys. I'm not so sure if al will actually read this but if he does I want to thank him for the time he has devoted to teaching others he is truly an inspiration. Now on the off chance that mr fuct has abit spare time I'm gonna ask my questions. I know there are many great minds here so if al doesn't get back I would appreciate any advice from other people doing the same kind of thing. Ok here goes!I plan to have 2 4x6 flood tables with my plants spaced 6x6 in hugo blocks. I will be running 2 cooltubed 1000w hps above each tray. Probably about 350mm from plant tops. I don't have much vertical limitation. My question is, would it be a good idea to veg my plants for maybe a week or two. And instead of cutting everything from the bottom 1/3 of the plant I plan to just trim it back to encourage bud production close to the stem. I read the harvest every2 wk thread and loved it and I know al said that by allowing the bottom of the plants to grow will just produce small whispy buds. I'm just thinking with a 1000 dedicated to only 3x4 of canopy space and hung 350ml from canopy that maybe the growth at the bottom of the plant stands a good chance of producing tight bud. I had a picture in my head of a 150cm cola rising from the rockwool is this simply impossible or is it in fact possible with the extra luminous intensity. I know lumens don't add up but I thought by halving the amount of plants that each lamp supplies with light would in fact allow each plant to take in more lumens. And also each pair of lights will be colled by an 8" centrif blower so no radiant heat will harm plants at even 300mm from canopy. I just feel that these massive lights will have the ability to penetrate deep down the stems and provide even the very bottom growth with enough light to create solid buds. Sure would b great to get a reply from the main man himself but if not really any help from others would be massively appreciated. Thanks a bunch dudes ! Keep up the good work!
painkillerman
Active Member
ok so 288 if spaced u mean center to center 83.3 wpsf at lamp 350mm =13,79inch give take a mm or 2 given 63 watts at tops id not go ur route plants( really thats more dwc area due to larger root volume those systems create) will to large hinder air circulation cause localized humidy unmanageable problemsdue to over density ive ran 66 watts and found if cutting is small 3inches 6 days veg max those conditions will make them fast if all other factors are kept inline h202 decay is kept up ph nutes res top up checks twice daily no over fert problems/defs ur 150cm colas will get 75% less light at the bottems to tops and that given no leaves to hinder penatrtion ie wisby buds smaller palnts in this syle growing is best for maxium bract density giving u one huge cola 10-12" long higher quaitiy as well due to plants have greater stimuils to respond too ive found higher wpsf = max resien max desinity bestresults just my opinion
WTF?????? IDK What he was taking bout I advise you to wait for Al he's the big dog! (He's been active on this thread) (Please guys on this thread ask profound questions to have Al come back for a reason.)My simple idea of from what you said and from what I scamed thru right quick I think to achive good yield at SOG you have to have multipul mothers that give out good thick, healthy,big leafs,mature,feed on time, ppm, ph, nutes correct and well takin care of (mothers)then you put them bitches in flower almost a zip per plant or really more. Clone them bitches at 9" And better. Look for an indica strain thats potent of course but that is the trick to the game is finding that nitch that pack buds easy to grow and get ya fucked up, its a course. Dont listen to me wait for Al. GOOD LUCK!
Yeah thanks pain killer and don great advice, I sure do hope al is gonna pop in and slap me around the ear and tell me the error of my ways. And painkiller yeah they're 4 psqft. I have environmental controlls for co2 temp and humidity which keep all of that in order, I also have a hygro controlled dehumidifier to get rid of humidity (well some of it) through the day so I don't need to air exchange nearly as often. I also have 5 large oscilating fans per tray. I don't think density or humidity related problems would be much of a biggie on this one due to the ammount of air circulation and I have access to a sulphur burner if pm became a bastard. Thanks dudes
Oh and don I don't deal with mothers I buy clones. This batch is whappa which is indica dom or maybe even straight indica 15-20% thc real heavy knock u down indica. All cuttings are pretty uniform usually around the 7" mark and never less than 5mm stems. Everything else is pretty much in place. The only other thing I'm not too sure on is CO2's effect on nutrient uptake and ideal temp/humidity? Al went over it a little in a previous thread and said 30'c and 80% rh but nothing on nute uptake. Also I feel it might be important to state that my harvest is not perpetual. I will be harvesting every 8 weeks cleaning my room and starting again. Thanks !
kbo ca
Active Member
I hate when crack heads find rollitup
RL420
Well-Known Member
kbo ca
Active Member
we will never know lol
painkillerman
Active Member
this guy Al will know( i like techincal) what iam saying( im used to my own grows and i iam controll freak hence i grow hydro) iam new to givin simple instrution( iguess real simple is best here lol) only 18 year hydro vetern and dispencery supplier with me extra im medical card holder and when done my current hydro grow my pic n video (can that be posted here i havent found any) all who dont know will be come an instant fan ive been growing like the methods decribed here for 17 years and think its great there sites like this i want start a medical club (so i have no legal issuses) and hands on train pple art of hydro,aeroponics even soil if thats thier thing lol as i just started my pk hydro grow 2 weeks in on that one and 4 2 days on my large flowering room 20 by 10 60 watts per square foot 2 large ac for temp controll demidifeirs 8 lights (1000's all air cooled tubes but its top floor so ac is needed co2 1100ppm max 900 turn on general hydro nutes flora series i love its tweakablty (iam trying to crack 3.0/ GPW IVE HIT 2.6 on 6on-12off at thatback to back using f-1 hybrids as the grow bout 20% faster haevier potent as hell basic light pyhsics an object twice as far waay from light (ie bottems of his 3 foot super buds )will get 8 times less light energy meaning ill keep it basic lol jk if using a 1000 at proper distance 24 inches from tops to bottem not even the 36 " hes asking bout at 24 75% light is lost due to photons lose energy exponentiolly3-1 per 12 inches but this guy Al so busy and hes already given u systems here and like myself has tried going larger on hydro table and found for extra veg time (even if just the 7-14 day u said u wanted)has found wieght drops due to veg time given (i mean 2 crops no veg say 50 day strain not incl cloning 100 day average no add in that month veg for both crops and uve done well big long 3footers but thier light airy and just not as good as ur capable of and u wasted a month flowering time to get less than steller results was what i was say
painkillerman
Active Member
just my 2 cents but u grow ur own moms n ur clonrs will b e strong i dont lik releying on clubs/friends to many give out clones from unhealthu stock ie PM, this simple mistake i was in a time crunch i did same thing as u and trust the grower of clones as my last grow i had to use sulfur tried all remides this worked best due to no rh spikes(folair spray cures)this sulfur saves my buds but cost me 50 pounds of hash making sweet leaf and pounds of product i had it but i cant smoke it tastes like hydralic fuild smells nasty so if any has better cure for PM ive tried rh 30 ,25'temps i cant go any higher in light intesity,milk sprays baking soda sprays im tring UV light with great sucess with killing PM as i run sealed rooms with uv lighing on all intakes to make sure no molds,fungi,viruses can get to my babies and i helped to breach my defences STUPID MISTAKE but i hear round these parts pk ,danby are PM spyies waiting to get ur babies under thier control this reson alone its worth urt ime to grow mom stock if u cant ie no room make deal with buddy he helps u u help him works for all iam waiting for my snow slyder PM resistent now only 3 weeks old/joker collection old school afgani crossed northern #1 heavy larthgenic/narcotic stone avge sog 20-25 grams per pole highest 33 grams sog method
RL420
Well-Known Member
painkillerman
Active Member
thanks tips lol
kbo ca
Active Member
like i said.... crack is a hell of a drug
painkillerman
Active Member
sorry im little over UR head man and ur level of expertze but this is extremely accurate of light dissapation laws if u dont want to learn them the easy way be all means learn em the hard way buddy id send u my current grow pics when done so u can drool at what can be abtained when at this level i leave nothing unknown this i believe has led to my success as ull see in near future PEACE
kbo ca
Active Member
If you could spell at atleast a fourth grade level, your comments might hold a little more weight.
painkillerman
Active Member
Reeeaaalllllllllllyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy?????????????? spelling checks wtf either way my theories and methods WORK
Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
Argh. You know, I haven't got any sort of checklist. Decades into this trip, I'm actually still quite uneasy about keeping any notes or records around. I run the checklist in my head, which is always dangerous for a stoned slacker. It's easy to forget, for example, when the last time was I dosed the tanks with H2O2 (fuck, I gotta do that tonight...).
It's not hard to develop your own checklist, though. It's pretty much clones every 14 days or so, biweekly tank dumps, tank dosing with H2O2 every 3-4 days, monitor tank pH every cpl days, pruning of branching at the ends of week 1 & 3, general daily verification that everything's working i.e. pumps, fans, thermostats, timers, etc.
It's around 2L each Flores A&B per flowering system tank change (4x 125L tanks), so 4L/month. Veg plants use about 250-300ml Vega per (~50L) tank, so 500-600ml/month.
I use potassium hydroxide based pH Up from Ye Olde Hydroe Shoppe.
Yep. Works fine with the mums as well as flowering plants.
No. You'd be amazed at how little sulfur the 'burner' actually uses. I put about 50-60g of sulfur powder in it when I got it several years ago and have not had to put any more in. The 'burner' runs 2x15mins/day in lights off; you can smell it when it's running but it's not overpowering and the scent goes away almost immediately after the thing cools down. Suffice it to say it puts very little sulfur onto the plants. All it takes is a very faint mist on the leaves to make them inhospitable to powdery mildew, etc. There's never any sulfur scent or flavour on the buds.
When lights are out, transpiration all but stops. The plants can't photosynthesise in the dark so they take up very little moisture from the media. The moiture contained in the rootmass will be sufficient to get the plant through the dark cycle. Adding water when the plant can't remove it from the medium is an invitation to root rot. Don't water in lights off, simple as that.
Lots of folks have monkeyed around with photoperiods, for very little return, if not introducing problems (i.e. hermaphrodism in extreme cases). Cannabis plants flower best at 12h light/dark. Reducing the light period reduces the light energy available for photosynthesis. Increasing the light period to 14h would invite mixed veg/flowering growth habit, such as sparse buds on long stems.
If I could get a plant to make dense, heavy buds under 24h light, believe me, I'd do it. The more light energy you can get into the plant, the faster it will grow- unfortunately cannabis' DNA is built to change growing habit dependent upon photoperiod. Don't monkey with photoperiods.
To get a plant that size requires that it be vegged for a 2-3 weeks. This requires that you maintain a separate vegging area for plants you later intend to flower. It'd have to be about half the size of the flowering room. A vegging period will also induce much taller plants than non-vegged plants by the time they're ready to harvest. Tall plants are not your friend in the flowering room because of the limited canopy penetration of artificial light. Even the mighty 1000HPS will only make nice, dense buds competently down to about 600-700mm down from the plant tips. This limited light penetration is the entire reason for the SoG method. Short plants have all of their flowering mass in the butter zone as regards light intensity.
If you want to grow a smaller number of bigger plants, you'll need a vegging space about half the size of your flowering area & you should think about vertical light fixtures interspersed amongst the plants to light them from the side instead of from overhead.
At the end of the day, traditional SoG will yield more per sq ft of lighted floor space than any other method. If you have plant count limitations under law, I can see why you'd not want the numbers required in a SoG op, but if you have the slightest concern about LEO ever counting your plants, your security culture & behaviour need a revisit.
The MLC-4X is simply a high power relay that allows you to control 4 lights using a single, light-duty timer. The timer need only be able to switch enough current to turn on the relay in the MLC-4X unit. All the lights connected to the unit come on at the same time when the timer energises the relay in the unit.
I prefer to use separate HD timers for my lights. This allows me to stagger the start times of the lights slightly so that I'm not putting a big surge on my supply line by having them all come on at once. On 240V, 1000HPS lamps draw about 9.5A when they strike the arc. They fall back to about 4.6A when warmed up and running- about 3-4 mins. I set my two 1000HPS flowering room lights to come on 5 mins apart via separate timers to reduce the maximum current load placed on my wiring to about 14.1A instead of 19.6A if they were both to come on simultaneously. While my cabling can easily carry 30A, lower loads put less stress on connectors etc., meaning I can sleep like a baby knowing I'll never, ever have an electrical fire due to stressed components going resistive over time. I design my ops to run for decades- there's no mucking about pushing the limits of what the gear can do.
painkillerman
Active Member
I WONT EVEN SAY IT LOL but KBO CA crack prices must gone up guy ........ they stole are jobbssssss tey stoleee our jobbbsssss what what they do u holy shit they stole ourrrrrr jjjjjoooooobbbbbsssssss !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!