So for 30 or so ONE single strip of that T5 High Output lighting would suffice, How long untill you switch to your veg section, what is it about 2 inches or so.
It's not really that a T5 will suffice for any specific number of clones. It's more along the lines of you have a 4 foot strip T5 Lightbulb and anything that can fit underneath the light will more than thrive rooting as a clone. We have (3) 24 site cloners under 1 54watt T5 Strip (literally just one bulb). So that's 72 clones under one bulb. We leave the cloned plants in the cloner as long as we need to before transplanting them. They usually last a couple months without any ill effects in the aerocloners. However, waiting 2 months to finally take the clone out, it will have like 2-4 foot roots that you will want to trim before placing into your pot. This undoubtedly stunts your plant for a few days...but we've only lost a few due to stress out of thousands at this point.
They can be in the same section of the room as my vegging plants and mother plant, right?

Yes, your clones can be in the same area as your vegging plants. However, the clones must receive some type of ambient light 24/7. If you run your veg lights 24/7 then could probably just throw your clones in the corner and use the ambient light from your veg lights. Cloning plants need very little lumens to actually root. They just need to know that life exists by having a small amount of light energy. If you do not run your veg lights 24 hours a day then you will definitely need some type of fluorescent lighting above/near your clones.
why only 1 gallon? do you transplant them when its flower time?
We use 1 gallon during veg because of room size restriction. Yes, we transplant 2 weeks before flowering into 5 gallon pots. If I had the same size veg room as flower room then I would veg directly in the pots that they would be flowering in. Since we run 5 gals in our flower room, in order to have a perpetual harvest with 5 gallons, you would need the same size room for flower as you would veg. To alleviate this, we run in the 1 gallon for just a couple weeks. Once it starts reaching the perimeter of it's container with it's growth it's usually time to transplant. This happens in 2 weeks or so. We then transplant to 5 gallons for the last couple weeks of veg. This allows us to only have like 40 5 gallons in the veg room, 40 1 gallon, and 40 fresh transplants in like 2 pint cups. Basically, it's all about having enough room to keep a perpetual harvest intact. If your veg room is the same as your flower than you are in luck and can veg in the same size as your flowering pots which is definitely optimal for the plants maximization.
Why is it better to add lights slightly into the veg cycle and at the end of the flowering stage, why wouldn't you want that power the entire time?
The reason we use different powered lights for different stages of the cycles are for a few different reasons:
1) The plants need less light during vegetation to grow than flowering. Flowering takes a lot more energy to create the buds, so more light is necessary during Flowering. Anywhere we can reduce wattage usage while still maintaining desirable results we will. Wattage = $$
2) Fresh transplants are susceptible to light stress from being under such a weak source during cloning. It is important to not over light your new transplants or you will undoubtedly stress them or even kill them.
3) Induction lights provide a great amount of usable PAR light without the added wattage and heat. Our plants not only seem to thrive but stay much stockier with tight inter-nodal spacing under induction lighting. I personally think induction lighting is the only way to go during veg after about a year of using them. However, they don't have very good penetration so as a flowering light they do not perform as well as HID (when it comes to overall yields, but the induction sure do produce a very pretty product).
4) Even when we enter flowering, we start with our lights at 75% (750 watts) for the first week. We use a Fieldscout PAR Meter to ensure that when we flip to 100% (1000 watt) that the PAR measurement is not drastically higher than what it was at 750 watts. Thats really always our goal. Introduce the new lighting regimen with a slightly higher PAR value then what it came from and slowly increase from there. Week by week we slowly lower the lights inch by inch as long as we so no heat or light stress.
It's kind of like trying to lift 500 lbs on benchpress on your first day in the gym. It's just not gonna happen, plus the potential for injury/death is severe. Life is a rhythm, but the rhythm must start out slow and smooth. Once at full speed, these plants can take damn near anything you can throw at them.
People will argue and contest that they throw their plants under 1000 watts right away at full intesnity, etc, etc and like I said, I'm sure you can do things contrary to my style listed here and still see great results...but without side by side comparisons of the same plant with records, I don't listen to anyone. I keep serious logs of all my environmental factors to ensure I can actually parse my data and yields to ensure that I'm always maximizing my crop.
Maximizing your yield is all about keeping your plants nice and comfortable. The more stress they endure, the more "recovery" time they will endure. Plants will not be growing during recovery time, but instead of course...recovering. Sure, you could drop your veg plants directly under a 1000 watt light and see what happens. I'm sure you wouldn't see any visible ill effects necessarily, but just because you didn't see anything physically, doesn't mean something didn't happen. That one day of light stress could have stunted growth by a day. 1 day could have been 1 gram per plant of stress. 1 gram of plant x 30 plants is over an ounce which is quite a bit.
that areocloner just takes the place of the germination process? why wouldn't everyone have one...
Yes, it provides perfect oxygenated water to the seed continually all day. No paper towels, no forgetting to keep them soaked and losing seeds, no germination needed at all. They will do it all themselves. Best part, you can have seeds next to clones too. Just have to modify the neoprene sleeve that holds the clone in to hold your flexiplugs. I use flexiplugs because they are made from tree bark and don't run off any type of waste or coco like a pellet potentially could.
Why doesn't everyone have an aerocloner? Well...people are scared of what they're not familiar with and sometimes things seem too good to be true. This is one of those rare circumstances, where it seems too good to be true, but it's not. I couldn't believe how fast clones propagate with zero maintenance and no humidity dome. Gone are the days of humidity domes, misting plants, and molding clone pellets. You clip the clone, dip in rooting hormone, place into your cloner and walk away. It's really that simple.
Stinkbud gives a guide on making your own aerocloner at the link below. They are super easy to make, the parts are easy to obtain, and much cheaper than a pre-made aerocloner. We made 6 aero cloners for the price of 2 commerical units. Of course, the commerical units are of slightly better construction and occupy a slightly smaller footprint, but all in all our cloners more than server their purpose.
https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/116859-harvest-pound-every-three-weeks.html
for 30 plants give or take 
