EC, TDS, or PPM

EC, TDS, or PPM

  • EC

    Votes: 6 33.3%

  • TDS (EC x 500)

    Votes: 4 22.2%

  • PPM (EC x 700)

    Votes: 9 50.0%
  • Total voters
    18
Any or all. Boys in the UK typically use EC more than here, most people talk in ppm. I prefer EC because it's constant and isn't another convoluted measuring system we in the us primarily use.
 
Bayou bud said:
Any or all. Boys in the UK typically use EC more than here, most people talk in ppm. I prefer EC because it's constant and isn't another convoluted measuring system we in the us primarily use.
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Cool, that is exactly the type of information that I am looking for. I am using TDS (EC x 500) and was wondering why everyone's nutrient solution was so much more concentrated than mine. I am running House and Garden nutes around 400-500 TDS and am at the end of week 4 of flower.
 
i wish everyone would use ec because its universal. you dont have to worry about the different conversions. i just saw a guy i know fry all of his plants because he was using a .5 conversion meter and was trying to follow this particular schedule that was using a .7 conversion.
 
guerrilla medic said:
i wish everyone would use ec because its universal. you dont have to worry about the different conversions. i just saw a guy i know fry all of his plants because he was using a .5 conversion meter and was trying to follow this particular schedule that was using a .7 conversion.
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Yeah I think I may be that guy, that's why I started this poll. I will continue with TDS reading for this grow but switch to EC for my next grow. Thx.
 
if you know the conversion rate for your meter you can figure out the ec. all meters measure ec and then convert it to ppm. take your ppm and divide it by your conversion rate (.5, .68, .7) then divide that number by 1000. thats your ec. once you do it for awhile it will become second nature.
 
I'm with guerrilla medic on this one. I wish everyone would just give their values in EC. I have a bluelab truncheon and go by EC.

Here's a good link for those that need it explaining ppms, the scales, and what information to provide aside from just the nominal ppm value: Understanding what ppm scale to use
 
quisqueyano said:
I'm with guerrilla medic on this one. I wish everyone would just give their values in EC. I have a bluelab truncheon and go by EC.

Here's a good link for those that need it explaining ppms, the scales, and what information to provide aside from just the nominal ppm value: Understanding what ppm scale to use
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Yeah I read that but it still says you need to know what scale to go by and that depends on your geographic area, grow book, advice from veteran grower, etc. I want to get a good read on what most people here are using.
 
I always say that PPM vs. EC is unimportant. I don't even use my meter anymore. I just change my res every couple of weeks and never have any problems. But I know how all you measurebators are so here is some tips.

You need to learn how to read your plants.

1) If your PPM/EC is too high, your plants will turn dark green and eventually you will start to see some tip burn. In extreme cases the plant leaves will start to turn brittle and curl down like a bird's claw.
2) If your PPM/EC is too low then your plants will turn yellow or start showing dead spots on the leaves (or funky other symptoms)

So let's say your EC is set to "Joe" and the plants are burning. Then you need to set your EC to "Joe -1". If your plants are yellow then you need to set your EC to "Joe +1".

So you need to figure out what "Joe" is. I've grown a strain called "Superman" that could handle 3000 PPM without burning. I've also seen Blueberry plants show tip burn at 1500PPM. So which number is right? What's right for one strain might burn the fuck out of another. If someone is running Aeroponics with tons of light and CO2 then their needs will be different than someone growing in a cold green house with soil.

You need to understand the big picture and not get so hung up on numbers. Remember, plants can't read a meter...
 
StinkBud said:
I always say that PPM vs. EC is unimportant. I don't even use my meter anymore. I just change my res every couple of weeks and never have any problems. But I know how all you measurebators are so here is some tips.

You need to learn how to read your plants.

1) If your PPM/EC is too high, your plants will turn dark green and eventually you will start to see some tip burn. In extreme cases the plant leaves will start to turn brittle and curl down like a bird's claw.
2) If your PPM/EC is too low then your plants will turn yellow or start showing dead spots on the leaves (or funky other symptoms)

So let's say your EC is set to "Joe" and the plants are burning. Then you need to set your EC to "Joe -1". If your plants are yellow then you need to set your EC to "Joe +1".

So you need to figure out what "Joe" is. I've grown a strain called "Superman" that could handle 3000 PPM without burning. I've also seen Blueberry plants show tip burn at 1500PPM. So which number is right? What's right for one strain might burn the fuck out of another. If someone is running Aeroponics with tons of light and CO2 then their needs will be different than someone growing in a cold green house with soil.

You need to understand the big picture and not get so hung up on numbers. Remember, plants can't read a meter...
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Stink Bud is dead on. Plants don't read the EC. Its helpful to check it to be sure you won't burn or underfeed. But if you have an eye for your plants, you can work up the nutes slowly and if they overdarken you can tone it down. The meter will just let you know "will this fuck my shit?"
 
Sorry just something that irks me a little about the polls wording.

The results of EC*500 and EC*700 are both a measure of TDS in PPM.

I know it's pedantic but I think it may distort the results.
 
StinkBud said:
I always say that PPM vs. EC is unimportant. I don't even use my meter anymore. I just change my res every couple of weeks and never have any problems. But I know how all you measurebators are so here is some tips.

You need to learn how to read your plants.

1) If your PPM/EC is too high, your plants will turn dark green and eventually you will start to see some tip burn. In extreme cases the plant leaves will start to turn brittle and curl down like a bird's claw.
2) If your PPM/EC is too low then your plants will turn yellow or start showing dead spots on the leaves (or funky other symptoms)

So let's say your EC is set to "Joe" and the plants are burning. Then you need to set your EC to "Joe -1". If your plants are yellow then you need to set your EC to "Joe +1".

So you need to figure out what "Joe" is. I've grown a strain called "Superman" that could handle 3000 PPM without burning. I've also seen Blueberry plants show tip burn at 1500PPM. So which number is right? What's right for one strain might burn the fuck out of another. If someone is running Aeroponics with tons of light and CO2 then their needs will be different than someone growing in a cold green house with soil.

You need to understand the big picture and not get so hung up on numbers. Remember, plants can't read a meter...
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Thank you for your post but I think you are missing the point of this thread. I am looking to find out what most people on this site, or at least a sampling of people, use to measure their nutrient solution concentration because that would help me better understand when people say they are using this much of this or this much of that at a certain PPM. I am going by TDS and the look of the plant to help me get my nutrient solution correct. I don't think using a reliable EC/TDS/PPM meter is pointless, just don't rely 100% on it. Use it in conjunction with all of the other information, PH, air temp, water temp, relative humidity, etc. They all provide a complete understanding of the big picture so that you can accurately respond to your plants needs. I am not saying TDS is everything, but it is definitely a helpful tool to have in your arsenal.
 
BlueBalls said:
Sorry just something that irks me a little about the polls wording.

The results of EC*500 and EC*700 are both a measure of TDS in PPM.

I know it's pedantic but I think it may distort the results.
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Sorry, just going with the information provided to me by Bluelab, the company that makes my equipment. I think a lot of others use Bluelab as well.
 
a word to the wise. reading your hydroponic solution will alert you to deficiencies/toxicities/ph fluctuations well before your plants show signs of them.
 
So, I have a Q for ya all. money is an object, I dont want to blow all out doors on a meter. I only use PPM as a reference point to work with anyways.
I have no prob dealing in EC/TDS/PPM. I was using a cheapo TDS-3 for a while, but now longer have it. Im looking to replace it very soon, and have been browsing feebay.

Any ways, im wondering if any of the cheaper models on ebay are good enough for what we need? I can find something between 10$ (shipping out of China) and around 60$ easy enough. obviously id prefer to spend the least amount and still get a decent meter. Honestly tho, a 10$ cheapy from china is fine for me. But Im also open to suggestions if any of ya all have a better one?
 
berkman858 said:
Sorry, just going with the information provided to me by Bluelab, the company that makes my equipment. I think a lot of others use Bluelab as well.
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No need to be sorry. I'm just being fastidious.
It would be preferable if all meter manufactures named them differently.

My HM meters are precisely phallic for more pleasurable measurebating.
 
unohu69 said:
So, I have a Q for ya all. money is an object, I dont want to blow all out doors on a meter. I only use PPM as a reference point to work with anyways.
I have no prob dealing in EC/TDS/PPM. I was using a cheapo TDS-3 for a while, but now longer have it. Im looking to replace it very soon, and have been browsing feebay.

Any ways, im wondering if any of the cheaper models on ebay are good enough for what we need? I can find something between 10$ (shipping out of China) and around 60$ easy enough. obviously id prefer to spend the least amount and still get a decent meter. Honestly tho, a 10$ cheapy from china is fine for me. But Im also open to suggestions if any of ya all have a better one?
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I understand you not wanting to spend $90 on a Bluelab PPM pen but my recommendation would be to at least get a decent pen that can be calibrated. If it cannot be calibrated it will not be reliable for very long, if ever. I calibrate my pens every week with res changes and my Bluelab Guardian once a month since that's what Bluelab recommends. The same goes for a PH pen, don't get one that cannot be calibrated.
 
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