I've never seen this......blisters (Pics)

lahadaextranjera

Well-Known Member
The nutes are at 1200ppm of the one part Botanicare Pure Blend Pro (2.5-3-5) and I let it drift between 1200 and 900, to allow for different levels of uptake. It's been the same nutes for a long, long time but have never really seen anything like this until relatively recently.

It's basically a flood/drain slab gutter system, and waters about 4-5 times a day. Anything less or more seems to either over soak or dry out too much.
I think it's not so much the PPM but what's in it exactly. I start with RO EC 0.0, then I either add tap water to make it EC 0.2 or I add monos Ca to EC 0.1-0.2 then equally Mg EC 0.1 -0.2 (100-200 ppm) then I add (at 5 weeks) EC 0.2-0.3 of PK then the flower A & B nutes.

This is what I meant by the breakdown. What water are u using? Those pics looked a bit Ca def.

I've had to learn about water since i switched from tap water to RO.
 

TGR

Member
I think it's not so much the PPM but what's in it exactly. I start with RO EC 0.0, then I either add tap water to make it EC 0.2 or I add monos Ca to EC 0.1-0.2 then equally Mg EC 0.1 -0.2 (100-200 ppm) then I add (at 5 weeks) EC 0.2-0.3 of PK then the flower A & B nutes.

This is what I meant by the breakdown. What water are u using? Those pics looked a bit Ca def.

I've had to learn about water since i switched from tap water to RO.
Currently it is tap water. Comes out at (or very, very close to) 7 pH and about 150ppm (0.21 EC). After mixing the Botanicare @1200ppm, it puts the pH ~ 6.2-6.5. Tap water is checked periodically to account for any fluctuations, but none have been measured.
RO would be nice but up to this point it's been a matter of not fixing something that isn't broken, you know? Also, I'd like to avoid RO if I can, just due to the amount of waste-water that is produced through the process.
 

lahadaextranjera

Well-Known Member
Sure RO does waste a lot of water. My water was ok at EC 0.45 but i wanted to improve it.
Now lets see abt ur water. It has the perfect starting softness, not too soft and not too hard but as u know tap water contains Ca plus others. If there is more Ca than Mg then it will lock the other out. Too much Mg will lock out Ca. Could it be that ?
 

Dr Kynes

Well-Known Member
symptoms for the above fungus are brown rot, root rot and tissue softening rot, resulting in necrosis. thats not whats goin on in OP's plants.

still looks like citrus scale to me. as to fungicide types, the copper methycote products are hard to find in the US now, except in sprays for peach leaf curl fungus and a few other drupe sprays. asking around your local PCAs might pay off, or look for something for peach leaf curl. dont spray while you are flowering as the carrier solution is pretty pungent, and for peaches nectarines and apricots you cant spray after the fruit has set. the silver sprays are new and i dont know if they even work, but they are reputed to be non toxic, and suitable for use all the way up to a few weeks before harvest (on drupes! read the labels of course, and treat cannabis like you would tobacco or soft skinned fruit) but again, if it doesnt work, its wasted money. alternately try reducing your humidity, increasing your under-canopy leaf removal, and adding some ultraviolet light to your spectrum (fungi hate dry conditions, bright light and UV radiation, all of which are largely ignored by most plants)]

Addendum: sulphur smokers are reputed to be great at controlling fungi indoors while being harmless or even beneficial to cannabis. i only treated fungus outdoors on fruit trees so i never used that.
 

TGR

Member
Sure RO does waste a lot of water. My water was ok at EC 0.45 but i wanted to improve it.
Now lets see abt ur water. It has the perfect starting softness, not too soft and not too hard but as u know tap water contains Ca plus others. If there is more Ca than Mg then it will lock the other out. Too much Mg will lock out Ca. Could it be that ?
Mg def has certainly been a consideration, and .25t/gal has been added a few days ago to see what happens. I know I have seen 1t/gal but that just seems the upper limit to me.

see if putting peroxide on it has any effect
As in spraying it/rubbing it on directly?

symptoms for the above fungus are brown rot, root rot and tissue softening rot, resulting in necrosis. thats not whats goin on in OP's plants.

still looks like citrus scale to me. as to fungicide types, the copper methycote products are hard to find in the US now, except in sprays for peach leaf curl fungus and a few other drupe sprays. asking around your local PCAs might pay off, or look for something for peach leaf curl. dont spray while you are flowering as the carrier solution is pretty pungent, and for peaches nectarines and apricots you cant spray after the fruit has set. the silver sprays are new and i dont know if they even work, but they are reputed to be non toxic, and suitable for use all the way up to a few weeks before harvest (on drupes! read the labels of course, and treat cannabis like you would tobacco or soft skinned fruit) but again, if it doesnt work, its wasted money. alternately try reducing your humidity, increasing your under-canopy leaf removal, and adding some ultraviolet light to your spectrum (fungi hate dry conditions, bright light and UV radiation, all of which are largely ignored by most plants)]

Addendum: sulphur smokers are reputed to be great at controlling fungi indoors while being harmless or even beneficial to cannabis. i only treated fungus outdoors on fruit trees so i never used that.
I actually found the copper at a home depot, but I am curious about the Eco-stuff. God, I hate to think of the smell of a sulphur smoker, lol... can I just light sulphur in there? It burns pretty readily, if my childhood chemistry set memories serve me correctly...!
 

progenitor04

Active Member
Mg def has certainly been a consideration, and .25t/gal has been added a few days ago to see what happens. I know I have seen 1t/gal but that just seems the upper limit to me.


As in spraying it/rubbing it on directly?



I actually found the copper at a home depot, but I am curious about the Eco-stuff. God, I hate to think of the smell of a sulphur smoker, lol... can I just light sulphur in there? It burns pretty readily, if my childhood chemistry set memories serve me correctly...!
i think ethier one is fine.. if its some kinda fungus or mold it shud fizz up
 

Dr Kynes

Well-Known Member
you couls always use a sharp pen knife to scrape off a sample, and take it to your local agricultural school. they may have solid info and a simple fix for you. (remember you grow Hops for home brewing!!)
 

TGR

Member
you couls always use a sharp pen knife to scrape off a sample, and take it to your local agricultural school. they may have solid info and a simple fix for you. (remember you grow Hops for home brewing!!)
omg man it would never work, whole damn thing smells like HOPS.... :D
 

TGR

Member
Somewhat unrelated to the initial issue, but related the the latter leaf symptoms, I think my pH is screwy for some reason. That is certainly the benefit of RO is the standard baseline, but I have my res set up with a float to auto top off, and I add nutes as needed. I have noticed that my pH keeps drifting up, upper 6's, and I am sure this can't be good. I wonder if this is causing the leaf symptoms? Adding mG didn't seem to have much of an effect at all. The pH was adjusted down to the low 6s, high 5s a few days ago, and it's right back up again. It's a single trough in a FTD system with an airstone to keep it mixed/aireated, any ideas/suggestions? Thanks in advance, everyone.
 

dirtysnowball

Well-Known Member
are you sure this is problem? i've seen it plenty of times, but i've never heard/read that it was a problem. I always assumed it was a mineral build up of sorts like tree bark, in fact i've seen it on some tree size pot plants and it is bark at that point.
 

TGR

Member
are you sure this is problem? i've seen it plenty of times, but i've never heard/read that it was a problem. I always assumed it was a mineral build up of sorts like tree bark, in fact i've seen it on some tree size pot plants and it is bark at that point.
Oh no, actually, if anything I think it may be a small fungal issue but I don't think it is the root cause of my problems. But, I think that it can be a contributing factor due to other stresses (the blistering spots, not necessarily the "barky" areas), something that wouldn't manifest if the plants weren't already in a compromised state. I think my major issue now is pH. I'm just thinking that maybe there is particular nutrient deficiencies due to a) pH variance and subsequent nutrient deficiencies due to uptake problems and b) I wonder if just topping off the nutrients to maintain a 1200ppm TDS reading hasn't also caused a buildup/deficiency somewhere? This is certainly something that would become more evident later on in the bloom cycle.
I'll try some copper fungicide the next time around but I still have to get my pH managed as well.
 
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