AACT, Bloom Tea, Veg Tea, Fungal Tea, Myco Tea, recipes from the outdoor guys.

Hemlock

Well-Known Member
What do you all think of this tea

5 gallons of R/O water
1 handful of ancient forest
1 handful of mushroom compost
1/4 cup Indo bat shit .5-12-2
1 Oz of fulvic
1 oz Humic
1 oz molasses
 

itsaplant

Active Member
I brewed for 48 hours with a vigorous aeration and it smells like pee.
What did I do wrong? Weather has been cool but the liquid is warm.

EDIT: pump heated to 80f oops. all trash.
 

inked4life11

Active Member
whats up guys. good reading and good arguments so far. new to organics and throwing out my nutrients unless your in so cal ill give em to you:lol:
anyways here we go:
i wanna start my own organic garden from start to finish. meaning a good soil mix to potent tea.
what i wanna do is eliminate nutrients completely. i dont wanna add any bottled nutrients in my mix. is it possible? heres what i have in mind:
12 plants in my own soil
composted pile i have. mix of veggies,fruits and seaweed from the ocean that i rinsed off.
worm castings
molasses
throw that in a bucket and 48 hours later we have a tea..<---- would all this be ok in flower?

also is there any good info on mixing your own soils like recipes? if so can we get a link thanks
 

malignant

Well-Known Member
thats a good question, i brew my teas in my growroom so they're inside a clean cool place and i exhaust with my vents
 

elduece

Active Member
Wondering if mosquito dunk kill the mykos
I usually stir in two blister packs worth of grounded dunks per 8 cu ft and when that mix is done cooking, webbed fungal threads and expanded spores from the base mixes are visible top side layer. So, I have to assume it's fungal friendly.

Edit:
You'll also find bacillus thuringiensis -the main ingredient to those dunks, packaged along with those spores like great white, myko madness, mycogrow etc. I think it's safe to say it's ok.
 

Hemlock

Well-Known Member
I usually stir in two blister packs worth of grounded dunks per 8 cu ft and when that mix is done cooking, webbed fungal threads and expanded spores from the base mixes are visible top side layer. So, I have to assume it's fungal friendly.

Edit:
You'll also find bacillus thuringiensis -the main ingredient to those dunks, packaged along with those spores like great white, myko madness, mycogrow etc. I think it's safe to say it's ok.

Thanks so much for the response elduece, Well done Sir
 

Growop101

Well-Known Member
Very nice to see. Subbed just to let everyone know.

im usualy on daily, if not every other day. i can answer alot of the questions people need answered :D
Hey i jus had a question about compost tea. I made a batch, it brewed for 2 weeks or a little over2 weeks. It smells good earthy, sweet and nice. |
I applyed it to some plants in a diluted 10:1 ratio. And its been a few days and i dont see any sort of flourishment, its not doing any worse or better. What do you look for to tell if your tea is working in your favor or hurting your plants??
BTW this is my first tea lol
 

Growop101

Well-Known Member
:D i was just going to post a couple myths... more when i have more time.

Myth - Bone/blood meal: Bone meal and Blood meal do NOTHING. it takes around one month for Bone meal to become active, and 2+ weeks for blood meal to become active... IF you are using the sludge from the bottom of the barrel as top feed then for all means, add bone/blood meal, if not then it is kind of a waste....

Myth - PH doesn't matter: PH DEFINITELY matters with organic's. Many organic product's are Pre-tested to ensure the PH levels are around 6.5, but when using Home made, or self collected fertalizers a person NEEDS to be aware of the PH or they will experiance major problems.

Myth - Soil doesn;t NEED to be cooked: WRONG. soil Needs to be cooked for multiple reasons. #1 nutrient activation. #2 PH ballancer activation (Lime and Gypsum) and #3 degradation of all organic matter... the more degraded it is, the better for the plants.
What exactly do you mean by cooking soil?
 

<Grasshopper>

Active Member
This means to let it sit and compost for 30 days to help the microbial life break down the food and make it availible to the plant.
 
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