DIY Tents - Materials for Tent? Materials for Frame? Or just buy one... DIY worth it?

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NewGrower2011

Well-Known Member
So I was in my local hardware stores and looking at options for the frame in particular. I was in the PVC pipe area (plumbing) and they unfortunately didn't carry a 90 degree Tee that would serve as the corners... just the normal Tees... I know there are a bazillion online places to order PVC fittings so I guess I'll be doing that research if I go with PVC...

As for PVC options... It seems Schedule 40 is the 'harder' and 'stronger' pipe offering. Are there other classes of PVC I should be aware of?

Anyone have reccomendations for online sources? I can do the whole Google search thing, but first hand experiences are more trustworthy I feel.

I next ventured over to the electical section and was looking at Conduit. Which is metal of course. Any reason to not use the standard conduit from a hardware store? Rust a factor? I also was unable to find hardly any fittings that would lend themselves to tent construction (i.e. the 90 degreee Tee). I think the cost was pretty much on par with the PVC options and obviously metal should be a stronger frame material.

So what have others used for their DIY frame?

The other aspect I've not done nearly enough research on is material for the tent itself. Anyone able to steer me in the right direction here? I'm about to set out on the search and read path to gather what info I can. I'm wanting to do it on the cheap but I'm not adverse to spending the $$$ to get the right material. Hopefully something fairly easy to work with (cutting, sewing, etc)...

Of course there's the option of just buying one, but they're so damn expensive for what they are and the raw material costs... they're incredibly marked up for sure! And.. with DIY I can get custom sizes to fit my exact needs... can't do that with pre-made ones... and even if somewhere offered custom sizes... that'd be BIG $$$ I bet...
 
Gastanker

Gastanker

Well-Known Member
2x2s or 2x4s work well for an easy frame. I would highly suggest using panda film (black and white poly). You can find it at most hydro stores for pretty cheap, for me it's $10 for every 10x10' length. It's light proof and black on one side and reflective white on the other.

I'm all about DIY but if you purchase a cheap tent it will likely be about on par with price. A cheap 4x4x6.5' tent is $90 and comes with the frame, much thicker tent than panda film, precut vents, double tarp on the bottom... Now if you went with 2x4s ($30), panda film ($30), zipper ($5), you might save just a tad but not a whole ton; with PVC it would be considerably more. Of course if you have a weird shaped space go panda film all the way. I have three cheap tents and two DIY tents and personally I like the ebay ones. They all work just as well but the premade tents are just more convenient.
 
stonerpaddy

stonerpaddy

Active Member
Used 2 x 2 timber to form the corners and 6 x 2 to hold them together at the bottom. Timber is easier to work with as you dont have to get specific types of connectors. Just cut and screw together. Its also easier to ad support for fans, lights etc. to after.
Mylar would be the best thing to get for the walls as its reflective. All you have to do is staple it at the corners on the 2 x 2
 
Gastanker

Gastanker

Well-Known Member
Hate to contradict stoner paddy but mylar is see through without a backing. If you go the mylar route you'll want firm solid walls to mount it to. Could always build it out of foam sheets and then mount mylar to the sheets.
Light in reflector:


Light with a piece of white paper on top:


Light with a sheet of mylar with no backing (double thick mylar):


mylar with the same sheet of paper backing it:
 
N

NewGrower2011

Well-Known Member
Yeah... sometimes DIY just isn't worth it. I'm fortunate enough to be able to afford what I want for the most part... just don't want to be stupid with that hard earned cash!

So on the "eBay" tents thing... What differentiates them from the big boys like Secret Jardin or GrowBox? And should I really be overly concerned with PVC frame versus Metal frame?

I just spoke with someone who mentioned that galvanized pipe/fence actually has properties that kill vegetation... i.e. they mentioned how new galvanized fencing doesn't have weeds growing up due to something in the metal treatment leeching and killing weeds... Dunno about the accuracy of that statement but it seems very plausible.

Anyone able to make reccomendation on these "knock off" tents you see online?
 
N

NewGrower2011

Well-Known Member
When using wood for frame - do you treat it with anything? I.e. weatherproofing like a deck?

I was worried that the wood would get moisture problems... but hell yeah... FAR easier to work with as far as making your corners, etc... PVC isn't hard to work with either though - so long as you have the right fittings.

If I do a wood-based frame, I'd likely make the walls out of 3/4" styrofoam and line that with Panda film (mylar is too easy to tear for my taste from what I hear). That and with a more rigid wall, I won't have as much trouble with negative pressure 'sucking in' the walls I'd imagine. I'd also probably be more likely to achieve a 'sealed' tent for use with CO2... Right?
 
dank smoker420

dank smoker420

Well-Known Member
depending on what size buying one can be good. i got a small 1.5'x2'x3' tent for around 75 dollars. and its pretty nice. it was a lighthouse hydro tent and my plants are doing pretty good non dying or anything like that
 
Gastanker

Gastanker

Well-Known Member
Powder coated and galvanized metal will not leach anything into the atmosphere - I want to assume the guy that made that statement was referring to some type of plastic - some plastics will off gas.

The difference between the cheapo tents and the more expensive ones are mostly the supports and number of vents. Ebay tents have cheap pot metal supports - they work great for holding the tent up and I've never had problems hanging my lights and small filters but I wouldn't recommend hanging larger filters or too much other gear from them. I wouldn't recommend leaning on the tent either ;) Some of the more expensive tents have legitimate supports that you can hang yourself from without any problems. Vent placement, size, and number also can make a difference but many of the cheaper tents are now adding all types of vents.

As for wood - it would probably best to coat it in a moisture proof white paint/sealer but I used straight untreated 2x4s in one of my tents without any problem.

You can make a pretty sealed tent with panda film as long as you make as few cut as possible, tape up the staple holes, and tape up the sides real well.
 
stonerpaddy

stonerpaddy

Active Member
mylar-diamond.jpgDSCF2080.jpg

New Mylar on sale on ebay especially for grow rooms. Got it for new grow and had the panda film. It is about 3 times the price but seems worth it
 
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purple flowers

Member
2ftx4ftx6ft you will need (7)2x3s(lumber/wood) that are 8ft long.
have home depot or lowes or whatever cut (4) of them to 6ft, keep the (4) 2ft leftover. then have them cut the last (3) in half which is 4ft.
buy at the least (16) LONG screws
borrow your dads drill now go H.A.M. you can nail but if you drill will cut the time by more than half.
buy wood glue if you want a better bond
line the inside with mylar ($20 at local hydro store for 4ftx50ft) staple it to wood or tape it, mylar is 98% reflective even the 1mm thickness thats why it costs a bit more but is the best hands down.
TIPS:grab a buddy or have C- clamps available to hold wood together!!
it cost me 15 for the wood and 20 for the mylar, but i already had screws, drill, c clamps, and wood glue.
 
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purple flowers

Member
forgot to say the last 2x3s cut in half to 4ft each is one for the top going across to hang your light and on for support across your build just in case your not very handy and it comes out leaning or not sturdy but it should come out great, throw some tarp around it as well if you decide to do 1mm thick mylar.
 
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NewGrower2011

Well-Known Member
If I go the lumber route, I'll probably make myself a modular set of panels.

I.e.

Make each "panel" a fixed size, say 3'x3' or something... I have 8' ceilings and can't 'hug' them that close so 7' height is tops let's say...

Each panel itself would be a simple frame made from 2"x2" lumber and join them however (use fastening hardware, just screw & glue, whatever floats your boat - just make sure it will hold square over time).

I would then use the very thin wood on one side (outside of cabinet) that you lay down when flooring - they call it 'underlayment' and in my local HW store it's in 4'x4' sheets and fairly cheap. You could use other plywood, fibreboard, etc... I was looking to keep it lightweight... This outer panelling would also help keep things squared up... I would then cut styrofoam sheet material to fit inside the frame since I'll be attempting to keep the 'cabinet' cool and I believe the insulation will greatly help with this. If you are using 2"x2" for framing, you can double-up the 1" stuff and have a solid syrofoam core for your panels. For the inside of the panels/cab, you could go with Panda, Mylar, or if the foam you used is the stuff with the silver lining just go with that. For keeping shit clean and water resistant I'll likely go with Panda film stapled to each.

Make enough of these panels to construct your side walls and the ceiling. To fasten each panel to the others for the walls should be a fairly simple task. I'll have to browse around the HW store to see what makes the most sense...

Now -for the ceiling support, you'll need something a little more creative. Perhaps all of the panels are attached to a simple frame built to meet the strength/size you need. This framing would also serve as your light-hanger and filter/fan hanger, etc so it should be sturdy enough for the ceiling panels and those other aspects. I haven't thought through that quite yet.

What you end up with is a reconfigurable/modular grow cabinet... that can be easily broke down and hidden if needed... and re-assembled quickly & easily.

Am I talking crazy here? Should also make getting the 'cabinet' in & out of a room with a standard door a hella' lot easier! Just as easy as a tent with the benefits of a cabinet... like easily keeping it sealed for CO2...
 
sum420

sum420

Well-Known Member
Gastanker said:
I'm all about DIY but if you purchase a cheap tent it will likely be about on par with price. A cheap 4x4x6.5' tent is $90 and comes with the frame, much thicker tent than panda film, precut vents, double tarp on the bottom...
Click to expand...


just wondering where can u find a 4 x 4 x 6 tent for 90 bucks? the cheapest i can find is around 150... would really like a link if possible xD
 
Cobnobuler

Cobnobuler

Well-Known Member
sum420 said:
just wondering where can u find a 4 x 4 x 6 tent for 90 bucks? the cheapest i can find is around 150... would really like a link if possible xD
Click to expand...
Theres tons of em out there. Amazon or E-bay.
http://www.amazon.com/Aviditi-PTU-68-Reflective-Hydroponic-36-Inch/dp/B004U6WCMY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1341831201&sr=8-4&keywords=grow+tent

I believe this is an item better off bought ready to go than try to make one. Hell, when you can buy one shipped for less than a hundred bucks, you would put most of that into building a half decent one. This way, you'll get zippers and cutouts right where you want them etc.
Unless your one of those ones that just has to build shit and say " I make my own" ...and end up with one thats either too flimsy or too heavy to move, and leaks light :)
 
Gastanker

Gastanker

Well-Known Member
Just search ebay. Generally the 4x4s are $89 with free shipping although right now it looks like that's what the 3x3s are listed at. Here's a 4x4 with free shipping for $105 - http://www.ebay.com/itm/48-x48-x78-Reflective-Mylar-Hydroponics-Grow-Tent-Room-/230629328265?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b2944589
Tons of 32"x32" and 24"x48" tents for ~$80 though. Might check Amazon or wait a week if you need a 4x4 for under $100.


If you go with wood make sure to get a few extra lengths for diagonal cross members.
 
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