Bio Canna nutes and Soil questions.

chilleddude

Member
Hi all,

Im just about to finish my first grow using the full Biocanna range and things have gone ok, especially for my first grow. I know I can do better, im just not sure if im getting the most out of my nutes or sure if i am using them properly. At first I think I under fed them, then over fed and got a build up of nutrients in my soil haha.

So I just wanted to know if people have used the full BioCanna range and what methods have they picked up along the way that gets the most out of the plant?

Is Rhizotonic important? and how do people use it?

How often should you feed if you water only once a week? As I dont want to get a build up of nutes again.

Also when using the full BioCanna range of nutes and soil, what PH do people water with? Im just curious as the soil has a buffer range of 5.5 to 6.1 (it says on the bag), but most people say to water in soil with a ph of between 6.3-6.8. I was watering with a ph of 6.8 then the guy who owns the local hydro shop pointed it out.

Any help is really appreciated as im still learning and want to maximise my crop on my second grow.

Take it easy

Peace

:peace:
 

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
I use BioVega, BioFlores, and BioBoost along with a few other things. I don't use the Rhizotonic. I use Roots Excelurator and Hygrozyme. I like them better, and have had pretty good results with them. If you didn't wanna fork out the big money on Roots Excelurator, you could use BioRoot from GO. It is cheaper and works really well too.

I feed every time. In veg I use 15ml/gal of vega all the way to flowering, and in flowering I pretty much stick with 15ml of Flores every time except for during weeks 4-6, if they look like they want more. If you notice your plants aren't taking up the nutes, I will throw in a little water towards the end with some mycorhizzae or a tea to help chew up whats left.

I don't ever pH my nute mix. I add dolomite lime to my soil which helps buffer my pH, and on top of that I add my teas which help keep my pH in check.

I used to build a light soil mix using Pro-Mix as a base, but I've actually cut back to just using Pro-Mix, Dolomite lime, and Azomite. I didnt like the drainage of my mix and I started having funky issues, so I went back to the aforementioned mix, and things are turning back around. I guess I"m not as clever as I thought I was. :P

-Some things to keep in mind while using BioCanna. These are all from my own experiences and subject to change. :P My grow changes every run.

1.) Water Quality: One of the biggest improvements I added to my grow was a water filter with carbon filter, and an aerated reservoir. If you are using chlorinated water, you are killing your microherd, thus you get build up since all the nutrients aren't being broken down. I use a Small Boy filter with a KDF-85 carbon filter for dechlorination. It runs around $170 and is worth every penny. Store water in a drum or garbage can and be sure to aerate it well. These work well for city water, and well water applications.

2.) Cal Mag: BioCanna doesn't have any, they expect you to get these from your soil. I don't run a charged soil, so I have to add them in however I can. The first way is through using lime. I like Dolomite lime because it has both cal and mag, whereas hyrated lime has low levels of magnesium. If you don't want to do this, you can use GO Cal mag @ 5ml/gal every watering. Really though, make your life easier, add in some Dolomite lime @ 1 cup/cu.ft. or 2 TBS/gal. I topdress 2TBS every 4 weeks after transplant, and mix it into the top of the dirt and then water it in. If you don't wanna do this, the GO Calmag works really well, but I like to take out just about everything I can from my feed schedule to make it as simple as possible.

3.) Trace Minerals: BioCanna doesn't have any of this either like lime. I use Azomite mixed in a 1cu/cu.ft. or 2TBS/gal. This normally last me until harvest, but I will also use Earth Juice Microblast @ 5ml/gal every 2 weeks if I don't use azomite, or the plants look like they need more trace.

4.) Supplements: 2 things I've found BioCanna to be lacking in are Nitrogen and Phosphorus in flowering. To counteract this I start using Natures Nectar Nitrogen when I see early nitrogen fade, (yellowing of leaves,) which normally starts at around week 3-4 of flowering. I use it until week 5-6. Use as little as possible. If you put too much into your plants, getting that nice color fade at the end is impossible. For phosphorus, I use Budswell liquid 0-7-0. I start using it when the plants look like they want more phos and use it all the way until the end. I use 1 TBS/gal. I do use it up to 2 TBS/gal, but it will burn my light feeders, so be careful and be sure to check your plants. My heavy feeders love it at 2 TBS/gal though, just be careful, and use your own judgement. In the last 1-2 weeks of flowering, if I still have a lot of green in my plants, I just run the Budswell with some honey and bio boost. I also use Dark Energy to get Amino Acids, and Floralicious + as my humic and kelp extracts. My plants love them.

5.) Microherd: I used to use all kinds of expensive powders and stuff to reinnoculate my plants and keep the beneficial bacteria and fungi thriving. You really don't need all of that. Brewing a simple Earth Worm Casting tea will work wonders, and small plants (seedlings-clones) love it. The simple recipe is 1 TBS/gal of EWC, and 1 tsp/gal of a sugar source, ( I use Humboldt Honey, black strap molasses will work also.) I brew it in a bucket with an air stone for 24-48 hours. I apply this tea directly to my clones and seedlings, they love the shit out of it (literally.) I also add it to my nutrient mix @ 1 cup/gal as a microherd boost. I use whatever I need over 2 days and then dump it and start over. It is really cheap to make. A small bag (15lbs.) of EWC will last you forever doing this. If you want to get fancy you can start adding other stuff in to your tea. As someone on here I believe it was Malignant in his tea thread or someone he was quoting, each tea is unique to each individual and their needs and applications. But remember K.I.S.S., keep it simple, stupid. :P Here is my normal tea I brew ever 1-2 days. I mix 3-5 gals at a time, but here it is per gallon. It provides good nutriton for seedlings and clones, and keeps your soil active.
-1 gal water
-1ml Floralicious +
-1 TBS EWC: I use wiggle worm
-1/2-1 TBS Earth Syrup: (good stuff, an all around good supplement source and tea maker, acts as food source for microbes also while giving a little more nutrition to the plants. The EWC and Earth Syrup work well together. The EWC provides microherd and light nutes, and the Earth Syrup is a molasses based compost activator and light nute source so it is the food source for the EWC microbes.
-1 tsp Azomite: (optional, just add it to bolster my trace content since I don't reapply azomite throughout my grow
-Stir vigorously to break up the EWC and Earth Syrup powder clumps until it looks uniform, then just let it brew for 24-48 hrs. I use it after a day of brewing and whatever I don't use will get used the next day. After that, I empty my bucket and clean it and my airstone thoroughly, it gets pretty gunky. Wash, rinse, repeat.

Earth Syrup link: http://www.vortexbrewer.com/earth_syrup.html

NOW! That all being said. My relationship with BioCanna is a love and hate one. I hate the fact that I can't get a complete line of nutrients and supplements from Canna for what I find lacking in their nutes, and their customer service is attrocious. Ralph B. (Canna rep) is a joke. They tell you not to use a soilless mix and to use a complete organic soil blend like Ocean Forest or Happy Frog. I have used both, and in the end I had to start adding my normal nute regimen like I do in my soilless set up. Maybe if I used bigger buckets this would be different, but I ended up just going back to my simple Pro-Mix blend as I like the consistency and drainage of Pro-Mix better than any other soil or soilless I've used. (Ocean Forest, Happy Frog, Advanced Sunshine Mix #4, Coco, Roots Organic, and some others I can't remember. Use the Pro-Mix Bx if you are considering using Pro-Mix, it is almost all organic and has mycorhizzae added to it to help bolster your microbe colony. The reason that I keep using it and haven't switched is because i get a really nice finished product and great resin production. Yields are a bit lower, but the quality is phenomenal.

I water every 3-5 days and they normally get about 2.5-4 quarts each time depending on pot size.

A typical feeding in veg looks like: 1ml Roots Excelurator, 1ml Floralicious +, 2.5ml Dark Energy, 15ml BioVega

A typical feeding early flower feeding is about the same, just add in Flores. I switch from BioVega to BioFlores at around day 10-14 of flower, depending on bud development.

Weeks 4-6 (Bulking time) I do 1ml Floralicious +, 2.5ml Dark Energy, 4ml Nature's Nectar Nitrogen, 15ml Budswell, 15ml BioBoost, and 30ml BioFlores.

So ya, that is basically the bulk of the information that I have gathered over the last couple years using BioCanna. I hope it helps. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask. :)
 

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
And I'm sorry that this ended up being a master's thesis. I tend to be longwinded. But to explain only a little, wouldn't give you the full picture. :)
 

chilleddude

Member
And I'm sorry that this ended up being a master's thesis. I tend to be longwinded. But to explain only a little, wouldn't give you the full picture. :)
Wow thanks alot dude!!!!

I am only a newbie so alot of that didnt make sense. But im sure with a little research and experimentation I will get there eventually. I was planning on using the BioCanna soil again. What other nutrients do you suggest buying to improve things and would i have to add some stuff to the BioCanna soil? What exactley is a tea? Is it a mixture of your nutes? What is its purpose? and when do you use it?

Sorry for all the stupid questions, im still on a massive learning curve.

Peace

:peace:
 

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
Wow thanks alot dude!!!!

I am only a newbie so alot of that didnt make sense. But im sure with a little research and experimentation I will get there eventually. I was planning on using the BioCanna soil again. What other nutrients do you suggest buying to improve things and would i have to add some stuff to the BioCanna soil? What exactley is a tea? Is it a mixture of your nutes? What is its purpose? and when do you use it?

Sorry for all the stupid questions, im still on a massive learning curve.

Peace

:peace:
By the BioCanna soil, do you mean Bio Terra Plus? Supposedly it makes everything right when used with BioCanna. I have never used it as it is not available where I am at. Look at tea like this. Just like your grandma did when she makes her sun tea, take a jar, put in the tea which is in a bag, and let it sit and steep in the sun. Well instead of teabags, we use EwC and other stuff. I added some BioVega to my tea once and it became a frothy mess and had some weird floaties in it. I ended up tossing it and starting over. So no, I don't put nutes in it, I just use the Worm castings and the other stuff that was listed, put it in a bucket of water, and then put an airstone in there with it and let it steep to let the microbes multiply and let the nutrients become available.
 

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
Definitely try adding in a quart of high quality alaskan humus to that tea for even more microbes
I stopped using humus in my soil because I was retaining too much water. I never did use it in a tea though, not a bad idea. :) What I want to know is does the Alaskan Forest Humus actually have humics and fulvics in it.
 

chilleddude

Member
Yeah im using Bio Terra Plus but i've heard it still has its short comings. Im sure I read somewhere that the soil lacks nitrogen and you have to give it vega a few times during flower. I know BioCanna have now released an organic Ph up/down as apparently your nutes and soil will react better to this. I think im going to get that nxt time as my tap water has a ph of 8.3!! Currently I just leave it to stand for 5 days then Ph down to 6.4 then add my BioCanna nutes the next day and feed. Is that ok? I was also wondering if theirs any organic pk 13/14? A friend who grows non-organically told me the stuff is kick ass and really helps with the formation of bud sites at the beginning of flower.

Peace

:peace:
 

1337hacker

Active Member
I stopped using humus in my soil because I was retaining too much water. I never did use it in a tea though, not a bad idea. :) What I want to know is does the Alaskan Forest Humus actually have humics and fulvics in it.
Any good quality humus or quality soil source is gonna be a source of fulvics and humics since it is created mainly from decayed material left over from microorganisms and algaes. The addition of the acids to the brew isn't really even necessary to the total microherd, or the sugars.. as the sugars really aid in blooms of bacteria (outcompeting the fungals) The microbiologist I got this info from said fulvic acid is more effective when applied on it's own separately and has no effect on a long term brewed tea.

From what I broke down and from what I've been sticking to is:
a) Aeration - go over kill, build or buy a vortex brewer, or go overboard on building your own aerated brewer with PVC and a diaphragm air pump... when I bought my air pump the guy at the aquarium shop said that would run his whole shop... and it's only for a 5 gal brewer (u need 6 ml of dissolved o2 to maximize grow and minimize anaerobic bacterium !! NO POCKETS OF STAGNATION
b) Rich Humus, EWC are the main important components of the brew for increased effects or benefits to your tea you will want to step into the kelps / fish hydrolysate realm (again refer to what I was saying about the scope work and how he saw no added benefit with adding the fulvic, and how bacterial blooms are created by the molasses / sugar products.. he skips them and follows the next step instead)
c) 12 hour brew, fungal dominated : 24 hour brew strong diversity : 36-48 bacterial dominated

A couple of other notes. the type of the bag you use to contain your brewed materials is of utmost importance. A too small opening will shred fungals (especially if you get a good brew going your fungal structures will be large). Panty hose is actually too small, you should get something with bigger openings (I want to say he recommends mesh bags from aquarium stores ... 400 micron?) I will have to double check this info for you. He said slightly larger diffuser openings on the watering wand / gardening can are also preferred.

You can't over fertilize using a vermi/humus tea, and you can dilute it down to 1:5 or so if you'd like and use it as a drench of a spray.

I am typing from the cell so hopefully I didn't make too many mistakes... I'll find my source material for you on my computer after I get some shut-eye.
Good luck everyone, feed your soil ;) And then, when you get some confidence just plant another seed or clone right in that same soil instead of throwing it out and be surprised !!
 

1337hacker

Active Member
I use BioVega, BioFlores, and BioBoost along with a few other things. I don't use the Rhizotonic. I use Roots Excelurator and Hygrozyme. I like them better, and have had pretty good results with them. If you didn't wanna fork out the big money on Roots Excelurator, you could use BioRoot from GO. It is cheaper and works really well too.

I feed every time. In veg I use 15ml/gal of vega all the way to flowering, and in flowering I pretty much stick with 15ml of Flores every time except for during weeks 4-6, if they look like they want more. If you notice your plants aren't taking up the nutes, I will throw in a little water towards the end with some mycorhizzae or a tea to help chew up whats left.

I don't ever pH my nute mix. I add dolomite lime to my soil which helps buffer my pH, and on top of that I add my teas which help keep my pH in check.

I used to build a light soil mix using Pro-Mix as a base, but I've actually cut back to just using Pro-Mix, Dolomite lime, and Azomite. I didnt like the drainage of my mix and I started having funky issues, so I went back to the aforementioned mix, and things are turning back around. I guess I"m not as clever as I thought I was. :P

-Some things to keep in mind while using BioCanna. These are all from my own experiences and subject to change. :P My grow changes every run.

1.) Water Quality: One of the biggest improvements I added to my grow was a water filter with carbon filter, and an aerated reservoir. If you are using chlorinated water, you are killing your microherd, thus you get build up since all the nutrients aren't being broken down. I use a Small Boy filter with a KDF-85 carbon filter for dechlorination. It runs around $170 and is worth every penny. Store water in a drum or garbage can and be sure to aerate it well. These work well for city water, and well water applications.

2.) Cal Mag: BioCanna doesn't have any, they expect you to get these from your soil. I don't run a charged soil, so I have to add them in however I can. The first way is through using lime. I like Dolomite lime because it has both cal and mag, whereas hyrated lime has low levels of magnesium. If you don't want to do this, you can use GO Cal mag @ 5ml/gal every watering. Really though, make your life easier, add in some Dolomite lime @ 1 cup/cu.ft. or 2 TBS/gal. I topdress 2TBS every 4 weeks after transplant, and mix it into the top of the dirt and then water it in. If you don't wanna do this, the GO Calmag works really well, but I like to take out just about everything I can from my feed schedule to make it as simple as possible.

3.) Trace Minerals: BioCanna doesn't have any of this either like lime. I use Azomite mixed in a 1cu/cu.ft. or 2TBS/gal. This normally last me until harvest, but I will also use Earth Juice Microblast @ 5ml/gal every 2 weeks if I don't use azomite, or the plants look like they need more trace.

4.) Supplements: 2 things I've found BioCanna to be lacking in are Nitrogen and Phosphorus in flowering. To counteract this I start using Natures Nectar Nitrogen when I see early nitrogen fade, (yellowing of leaves,) which normally starts at around week 3-4 of flowering. I use it until week 5-6. Use as little as possible. If you put too much into your plants, getting that nice color fade at the end is impossible. For phosphorus, I use Budswell liquid 0-7-0. I start using it when the plants look like they want more phos and use it all the way until the end. I use 1 TBS/gal. I do use it up to 2 TBS/gal, but it will burn my light feeders, so be careful and be sure to check your plants. My heavy feeders love it at 2 TBS/gal though, just be careful, and use your own judgement. In the last 1-2 weeks of flowering, if I still have a lot of green in my plants, I just run the Budswell with some honey and bio boost. I also use Dark Energy to get Amino Acids, and Floralicious + as my humic and kelp extracts. My plants love them.

5.) Microherd: I used to use all kinds of expensive powders and stuff to reinnoculate my plants and keep the beneficial bacteria and fungi thriving. You really don't need all of that. Brewing a simple Earth Worm Casting tea will work wonders, and small plants (seedlings-clones) love it. The simple recipe is 1 TBS/gal of EWC, and 1 tsp/gal of a sugar source, ( I use Humboldt Honey, black strap molasses will work also.) I brew it in a bucket with an air stone for 24-48 hours. I apply this tea directly to my clones and seedlings, they love the shit out of it (literally.) I also add it to my nutrient mix @ 1 cup/gal as a microherd boost. I use whatever I need over 2 days and then dump it and start over. It is really cheap to make. A small bag (15lbs.) of EWC will last you forever doing this. If you want to get fancy you can start adding other stuff in to your tea. As someone on here I believe it was Malignant in his tea thread or someone he was quoting, each tea is unique to each individual and their needs and applications. But remember K.I.S.S., keep it simple, stupid. :P Here is my normal tea I brew ever 1-2 days. I mix 3-5 gals at a time, but here it is per gallon. It provides good nutriton for seedlings and clones, and keeps your soil active.
-1 gal water
-1ml Floralicious +
-1 TBS EWC: I use wiggle worm
-1/2-1 TBS Earth Syrup: (good stuff, an all around good supplement source and tea maker, acts as food source for microbes also while giving a little more nutrition to the plants. The EWC and Earth Syrup work well together. The EWC provides microherd and light nutes, and the Earth Syrup is a molasses based compost activator and light nute source so it is the food source for the EWC microbes.
-1 tsp Azomite: (optional, just add it to bolster my trace content since I don't reapply azomite throughout my grow
-Stir vigorously to break up the EWC and Earth Syrup powder clumps until it looks uniform, then just let it brew for 24-48 hrs. I use it after a day of brewing and whatever I don't use will get used the next day. After that, I empty my bucket and clean it and my airstone thoroughly, it gets pretty gunky. Wash, rinse, repeat.

Earth Syrup link: http://www.vortexbrewer.com/earth_syrup.html

NOW! That all being said. My relationship with BioCanna is a love and hate one. I hate the fact that I can't get a complete line of nutrients and supplements from Canna for what I find lacking in their nutes, and their customer service is attrocious. Ralph B. (Canna rep) is a joke. They tell you not to use a soilless mix and to use a complete organic soil blend like Ocean Forest or Happy Frog. I have used both, and in the end I had to start adding my normal nute regimen like I do in my soilless set up. Maybe if I used bigger buckets this would be different, but I ended up just going back to my simple Pro-Mix blend as I like the consistency and drainage of Pro-Mix better than any other soil or soilless I've used. (Ocean Forest, Happy Frog, Advanced Sunshine Mix #4, Coco, Roots Organic, and some others I can't remember. Use the Pro-Mix Bx if you are considering using Pro-Mix, it is almost all organic and has mycorhizzae added to it to help bolster your microbe colony. The reason that I keep using it and haven't switched is because i get a really nice finished product and great resin production. Yields are a bit lower, but the quality is phenomenal.

I water every 3-5 days and they normally get about 2.5-4 quarts each time depending on pot size.

A typical feeding in veg looks like: 1ml Roots Excelurator, 1ml Floralicious +, 2.5ml Dark Energy, 15ml BioVega

A typical feeding early flower feeding is about the same, just add in Flores. I switch from BioVega to BioFlores at around day 10-14 of flower, depending on bud development.

Weeks 4-6 (Bulking time) I do 1ml Floralicious +, 2.5ml Dark Energy, 4ml Nature's Nectar Nitrogen, 15ml Budswell, 15ml BioBoost, and 30ml BioFlores.

So ya, that is basically the bulk of the information that I have gathered over the last couple years using BioCanna. I hope it helps. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask. :)
By the way, I have a buddy who grows with the canna line, and he has found premixing alfalfa meal, and kelp meal into his soil have helped with some of those short comings... In fact I can pretty much line up all those short comings with those things right there, except cal/mag. However, I feel that could be partially since you are using 100% filtered water though as well (I prefer a mixture of dechlorinated tap and regular water myself as to cut down on the ppm of tap water but not eliminate it by any means).. I don't know what my buddy uses or supplements cal/mag with in his biocanna grows, I'll make sure to ask him, he does get pretty fantastic results, but is doing a fair amount on top of the base nutrient line
 

chilleddude

Member
By the way, I have a buddy who grows with the canna line, and he has found premixing alfalfa meal, and kelp meal into his soil have helped with some of those short comings... In fact I can pretty much line up all those short comings with those things right there, except cal/mag. However, I feel that could be partially since you are using 100% filtered water though as well (I prefer a mixture of dechlorinated tap and regular water myself as to cut down on the ppm of tap water but not eliminate it by any means).. I don't know what my buddy uses or supplements cal/mag with in his biocanna grows, I'll make sure to ask him, he does get pretty fantastic results, but is doing a fair amount on top of the base nutrient line
Cheers man,

Be sure to let me know what he does as im determined to maximise my setup this time. I already bought everything i need to fix my environment problems: a humidistat plug and tube heater for the coming months haha and a proper extraction fan (my main problems have been humidity building up when the lights are off, 90%!!!). I just want to make sure I get the most out of my soil and nutes but keep it organic.

By the way does your friend also use Bio Canna Terra soil? Its just that I still got enough soil left over for my next grow and im going to use it. After that if I feel adventurous I might attempt my own soil-mix.

Thanks for all the help guys, I really appreciate it.

Peace

:peace:
 

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
I was actually doing an amended soilless mix and started having some pH issues with it, so I basically stopped doing it. I was adding Alfalfa meal, kelp meal, insect frass, lime, azomite, ewc, a few others. I just had such issues with it, I backed off of it and went back to fixing it with the bottle.
 

1337hacker

Active Member
"I start with canna coco coir, mix in perlite, neem cake, dolomite lime, EWC, kelp meal and alfalfa meal. " From a pm he sent me a while back:

He also said the Ph pen is necessary to maximize results with Biocanna ;)
 

Kalyx

Active Member
1337hacker
Any good quality humus or quality soil source is gonna be a source of fulvics and humics since it is created mainly from decayed material left over from microorganisms and algaes. The addition of the acids to the brew isn't really even necessary to the total microherd, or the sugars.. as the sugars really aid in blooms of bacteria (outcompeting the fungals) The microbiologist I got this info from said fulvic acid is more effective when applied on it's own separately and has no effect on a long term brewed tea.

From what I broke down and from what I've been sticking to is:
a) Aeration - go over kill, build or buy a vortex brewer, or go overboard on building your own aerated brewer with PVC and a diaphragm air pump... when I bought my air pump the guy at the aquarium shop said that would run his whole shop... and it's only for a 5 gal brewer (u need 6 ml of dissolved o2 to maximize grow and minimize anaerobic bacterium !! NO POCKETS OF STAGNATION
b) Rich Humus, EWC are the main important components of the brew for increased effects or benefits to your tea you will want to step into the kelps / fish hydrolysate realm (again refer to what I was saying about the scope work and how he saw no added benefit with adding the fulvic, and how bacterial blooms are created by the molasses / sugar products.. he skips them and follows the next step instead)
c) 12 hour brew, fungal dominated : 24 hour brew strong diversity : 36-48 bacterial dominated

A couple of other notes. the type of the bag you use to contain your brewed materials is of utmost importance. A too small opening will shred fungals (especially if you get a good brew going your fungal structures will be large). Panty hose is actually too small, you should get something with bigger openings (I want to say he recommends mesh bags from aquarium stores ... 400 micron?) I will have to double check this info for you. He said slightly larger diffuser openings on the watering wand / gardening can are also preferred.

You can't over fertilize using a vermi/humus tea, and you can dilute it down to 1:5 or so if you'd like and use it as a drench of a spray.

I am typing from the cell so hopefully I didn't make too many mistakes... I'll find my source material for you on my computer after I get some shut-eye.
Good luck everyone, feed your soil :wink: And then, when you get some confidence just plant another seed or clone right in that same soil instead of throwing it out and be surprised !!​
Great recommendation to add Alaskan Humus (or any forest humus) to the AACT mix. It will give much much more fungal diversity and other microbes will be in there too which may help. Also adding any products with protein hydrolysate (like Fl+) will help feed and promote fungal hyphae. In addition you can create a 'santa's beard' by putting oats or a similar complex carbo in a container with moisture and some forest humus and letting it sit and grow a 'fuzz' prior to putting it in the teabag. This prestep will allow the fungi to replicate as they do not do this in the AACT brewer, fungi only grow longer hyphae in the brew itself.

I think you are quoting Tim Wilson on microbeorganics.com, it is a great resource to actually see and learn about AACT. :clap:His scope work is very informative. Also check out Elaine Ingham, she is the queen of academic AACT. Learn it and use it and your buds will taste like never before!
 

1337hacker

Active Member
Great recommendation to add Alaskan Humus (or any forest humus) to the AACT mix. It will give much much more fungal diversity and other microbes will be in there too which may help. Also adding any products with protein hydrolysate (like Fl+) will help feed and promote fungal hyphae. In addition you can create a 'santa's beard' by putting oats or a similar complex carbo in a container with moisture and some forest humus and letting it sit and grow a 'fuzz' prior to putting it in the teabag. This prestep will allow the fungi to replicate as they do not do this in the AACT brewer, fungi only grow longer hyphae in the brew itself.

I think you are quoting Tim Wilson on microbeorganics.com, it is a great resource to actually see and learn about AACT. :clap:His scope work is very informative. Also check out Elaine Ingham, she is the queen of academic AACT. Learn it and use it and your buds will taste like never before!
Bingo, refer to their work, they know what they are doing and will get you on your way to brewing awesome tea.
 

NightbirdX

Well-Known Member
I never pH my biocanna run, but I use a lot of benes. I use Azos on the rootball when I transplant and had been using mykos in flowering, but I recently switch to just brewing ewc teas for my seedlings and started giving it to everything as a microbial boost. They love it. Technically you shouldn't have to pH as the nutrients are broken down in the rhizosphere.
 

Kalyx

Active Member
Agreed. It is not necessary to shoot for a target pH, your microbes will adjust for you. I use RO and water in lower than 5.5 every time and my runoff pH is always 6.1-6.3. I check the runoff pH still out of habit mostly, just to check if everything is peachy in the rhizosphere. I dont even maintain my pen anymore, I just use litmus paper and with canna and my crobes its always where the plants need it.
 

SeniorFrostyKush

Active Member
hey chilliedude do you happen to live in the US? im guessing you live in either Europe or Canada due to the fact that your still using the bio terra plus. if you are in the US though i would love to know where your getting your bio terra plus. lol im so desperate for this stuff id litterally pay someone overseas 2x what its worth to ship it to me lol.
 

Kiken

Member
I water every 3-5 days and they normally get about 2.5-4 quarts each time depending on pot size.

A typical feeding in veg looks like: 1ml Roots Excelurator, 1ml Floralicious +, 2.5ml Dark Energy, 15ml BioVega

A typical feeding early flower feeding is about the same, just add in Flores. I switch from BioVega to BioFlores at around day 10-14 of flower, depending on bud development.

Weeks 4-6 (Bulking time) I do 1ml Floralicious +, 2.5ml Dark Energy, 4ml Nature's Nectar Nitrogen, 15ml Budswell, 15ml BioBoost, and 30ml BioFlores.

So ya, that is basically the bulk of the information that I have gathered over the last couple years using BioCanna. I hope it helps. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask. :)
Man I wich i knew how much water did he mixed that in... did I missed it?

Or maybe anyone care to elaborate??
 
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