Philosophist
Well-Known Member
Anyone else having issues?? I just found my first plant with a spider web on it and some black dots>.> GOing to get Neem tomorrow.... anyother suggestions?? Anyone else getting this problem?
MIte problems with the Monsoon??
- Thread starter Philosophist
- Start date
1337hacker
Active Member
Are they on indoor plants? Definitely get 100 % neem oil and go to town, you should be fine with 2 applications 5 days apart.
Philosophist
Well-Known Member
GEtting neem oil and some green lacewings tomorrow^^ only noticed it on one plant. They are young and still not budding so i have timne^^
RedbullGivesYouWings
Active Member
neem you can use until about two weeks out from the chop, it will brake down in about two weeks
Redbird1223
Active Member
i haven't had any problems with bugs so far, indoors or out. are you sure they're mites? I had a real bad mite problem once, and never saw one web. It was my understanding that they build a large population before they build webs, so you dont usually see webs until you're overrun, can anyone confirm that?
also, when i had mites, they were green. any bug in your grow is bad and i would still neem them, but it might be something less threatening. everytime i had mites, i'd get the whiteflies/knats too. its like they're a packaged deal.
also, when i had mites, they were green. any bug in your grow is bad and i would still neem them, but it might be something less threatening. everytime i had mites, i'd get the whiteflies/knats too. its like they're a packaged deal.
keepitcoastal
Well-Known Member
Iv never heard anybody confirm this for me but in the 2 times iv had mites and the times iv seen friends with mites Id say that is very accurate. The first time I got mites I was my first indoor grow they were on two blue dream mothers I bought and they stayed pretty hidden for awhile I didn't notice them but they were definitely there and I didn't see a web until week 6-7 it took awhile.
Iv seen plants other than marijuana covered in spider mites and webs when they didn't appear to be flowering
BeaverHuntr
Well-Known Member
Phil, since your plants are young you can also bomb the room with a bottle of Dr. Doom .. For mites they have a new great product called mighty wash.
Dignan Redux
Member
Google "lavender fermented plant extract" and then promise yourself you won't confuse that very effective, organic, cheap mite treatment with lavender essential oils, or any other lavender preparation.
Lavender FPE is what you want to make.
Lavender FPE is what you want to make.
1337hacker
Active Member
I hear that you can do neem and pepper / garlic with a FPE as well, good find
dhmessiah
Member
i too have mite issues in my indoor grow. Not sure if it is from the monsoon or not. But they are a pain in the ass. I have tried neem, NPK Mighty Wash, SNS 217, and Organocide. All have only slowed the bastards down. Once my flower girls finish in a couple weeks, I'm gonna try to bomb them. Also gonna try a concoction i read about in another thread on this forum. Here's the post...
this stuff kills mites!! its all i use.
have fun killing those little bugers
1/4 cup Baking Soda
1/2 cup Apple Cider vinegar
1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice
2 drops dish detergent
1/4 Teaspoon Epsom Salts
Take a cup of very hot water and desolve the epsom salts,take rest of ingredients and place in a clean 2 liter bottle and let work out. Add epsom solution. Add water to fill to 48ozs(3/4 full).Shake well.
TO USE: Cover soil/medium with plastic,with lights off mist plant all over,especialy under leaves,
Wait 20 mins,then spritz off with clean fresh water shaking as much water off plant as you can.
The fresh water spritz rinse will remove the solution along with the desolved remains of the mites and their eggs.
Have fun with your new "Mite Eradicator"
Note by MrFixit: Water plants 1/2 hour before spraying. This will help keep your plants from absorbing the spray.
This solution has been tested and used as directed will not burn plants,the rinse is very important though as it removes the spent solution before it can concentrate and burn the plant. It also removes most of the dead mites and eggs so you don't end up smoking them.
The formula can be diluted further,to 1 liter and it will still kill the mites but isn't as effective at dissolving and removing the mite parts.
Since removing the mite debris is desirable,I recommend the stronger solution,just remember to rinse and shake.
This formula is alkaline(about 7.8-
so please remember to rinse.
Mite irradication is absolutely assured and guaranteed if used as directed.
I've never seen ANYTHING work this well for mite irradication!!
I used to gas my booths for mites,it worked but they came back,I haven't seen a living mite in a long time now.They haven't come back,partly because of cooler weather,partly because I hosed the Roses that were infecting everything with the formula and wiped out all the mites during testing.
The only thing I wish I'd done different is,I wish I would have done sections of the Roses and preserved
some of the mites for later tests.I've had to go searching for victims to test it on and there just aren't any left!! I did find some victims for my final tests in the park where we have meetings,the plants by the river are pretty sickly and infested(were I should say,I walked around with ONE pint bottle and cleaned up most of the area.LOL)
If news of this formula were to become widespread,mites would become an endangered species!!!So GOOD HUNTING !
AES110
this stuff kills mites!! its all i use.
have fun killing those little bugers
1/4 cup Baking Soda
1/2 cup Apple Cider vinegar
1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice
2 drops dish detergent
1/4 Teaspoon Epsom Salts
Take a cup of very hot water and desolve the epsom salts,take rest of ingredients and place in a clean 2 liter bottle and let work out. Add epsom solution. Add water to fill to 48ozs(3/4 full).Shake well.
TO USE: Cover soil/medium with plastic,with lights off mist plant all over,especialy under leaves,
Wait 20 mins,then spritz off with clean fresh water shaking as much water off plant as you can.
The fresh water spritz rinse will remove the solution along with the desolved remains of the mites and their eggs.
Have fun with your new "Mite Eradicator"
Note by MrFixit: Water plants 1/2 hour before spraying. This will help keep your plants from absorbing the spray.
This solution has been tested and used as directed will not burn plants,the rinse is very important though as it removes the spent solution before it can concentrate and burn the plant. It also removes most of the dead mites and eggs so you don't end up smoking them.
The formula can be diluted further,to 1 liter and it will still kill the mites but isn't as effective at dissolving and removing the mite parts.
Since removing the mite debris is desirable,I recommend the stronger solution,just remember to rinse and shake.
This formula is alkaline(about 7.8-
Mite irradication is absolutely assured and guaranteed if used as directed.
I've never seen ANYTHING work this well for mite irradication!!
I used to gas my booths for mites,it worked but they came back,I haven't seen a living mite in a long time now.They haven't come back,partly because of cooler weather,partly because I hosed the Roses that were infecting everything with the formula and wiped out all the mites during testing.
The only thing I wish I'd done different is,I wish I would have done sections of the Roses and preserved
some of the mites for later tests.I've had to go searching for victims to test it on and there just aren't any left!! I did find some victims for my final tests in the park where we have meetings,the plants by the river are pretty sickly and infested(were I should say,I walked around with ONE pint bottle and cleaned up most of the area.LOL)
If news of this formula were to become widespread,mites would become an endangered species!!!So GOOD HUNTING !
AES110
KAL EL
Well-Known Member
This doesn't work, tried it before, bathed the whole plant in it and still had mites.i too have mite issues in my indoor grow. Not sure if it is from the monsoon or not. But they are a pain in the ass. I have tried neem, NPK Mighty Wash, SNS 217, and Organocide. All have only slowed the bastards down. Once my flower girls finish in a couple weeks, I'm gonna try to bomb them. Also gonna try a concoction i read about in another thread on this forum. Here's the post...
this stuff kills mites!! its all i use.
have fun killing those little bugers
1/4 cup Baking Soda
1/2 cup Apple Cider vinegar
1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice
2 drops dish detergent
1/4 Teaspoon Epsom Salts
Take a cup of very hot water and desolve the epsom salts,take rest of ingredients and place in a clean 2 liter bottle and let work out. Add epsom solution. Add water to fill to 48ozs(3/4 full).Shake well.
TO USE: Cover soil/medium with plastic,with lights off mist plant all over,especialy under leaves,
Wait 20 mins,then spritz off with clean fresh water shaking as much water off plant as you can.
The fresh water spritz rinse will remove the solution along with the desolved remains of the mites and their eggs.
Have fun with your new "Mite Eradicator"
Note by MrFixit: Water plants 1/2 hour before spraying. This will help keep your plants from absorbing the spray.
This solution has been tested and used as directed will not burn plants,the rinse is very important though as it removes the spent solution before it can concentrate and burn the plant. It also removes most of the dead mites and eggs so you don't end up smoking them.
The formula can be diluted further,to 1 liter and it will still kill the mites but isn't as effective at dissolving and removing the mite parts.
Since removing the mite debris is desirable,I recommend the stronger solution,just remember to rinse and shake.
This formula is alkaline(about 7.8-so please remember to rinse.
Mite irradication is absolutely assured and guaranteed if used as directed.
I've never seen ANYTHING work this well for mite irradication!!
I used to gas my booths for mites,it worked but they came back,I haven't seen a living mite in a long time now.They haven't come back,partly because of cooler weather,partly because I hosed the Roses that were infecting everything with the formula and wiped out all the mites during testing.
The only thing I wish I'd done different is,I wish I would have done sections of the Roses and preserved
some of the mites for later tests.I've had to go searching for victims to test it on and there just aren't any left!! I did find some victims for my final tests in the park where we have meetings,the plants by the river are pretty sickly and infested(were I should say,I walked around with ONE pint bottle and cleaned up most of the area.LOL)
If news of this formula were to become widespread,mites would become an endangered species!!!So GOOD HUNTING !
AES110
I use Forbid 4 now for mites and whiteflies. Sprayed entire garden no more bugs of any kind since I did it last spring.
Chronicseeker
New Member
Ladybugs love mites....
I think LBirds's are out of season locally but the internet always has options (cheap/natural solution unless you are completely overrun.)
If you have CO2 and can seal your environment, you can crush those bastards with an constant, inordinate amount of gas (10% or 10,000 ppm.) This method may not kill the mite eggs though.
Be cautious if you go this route, it would not be cool to read an azcentral article about some grower passing out and dying from over exposure while they were watching Wilfred...jk
Just a side note: OSHA says being in contact w/ 30,000 ppm for 10 min is reaching the limit for humans.
Some people say too much CO2 can produce a negative outcome so they opt to run the 10,00 ppm's at nighttime for two consecutive days so plants are not effected.
If the problem is not terrible, I would grab labybugs (they love mite eggs) instead of wasting a ton of CO2.
I think LBirds's are out of season locally but the internet always has options (cheap/natural solution unless you are completely overrun.)
If you have CO2 and can seal your environment, you can crush those bastards with an constant, inordinate amount of gas (10% or 10,000 ppm.) This method may not kill the mite eggs though.
Be cautious if you go this route, it would not be cool to read an azcentral article about some grower passing out and dying from over exposure while they were watching Wilfred...jk
Just a side note: OSHA says being in contact w/ 30,000 ppm for 10 min is reaching the limit for humans.
Some people say too much CO2 can produce a negative outcome so they opt to run the 10,00 ppm's at nighttime for two consecutive days so plants are not effected.
If the problem is not terrible, I would grab labybugs (they love mite eggs) instead of wasting a ton of CO2.
KAL EL
Well-Known Member
Homegrown Hydro carries them year round.
Chronicseeker
New Member
Ladybugs are living creatures and most local businesses store them in the fridge long term, to try and keep them stocked year round.
Overtime, a fairly small span of time, this dormancy technique will begin to kill the LB's....
I think the best season for LB's is in the months leading up to summer i.e. outdoor planting season unless purchased form a breeder.
A store I frequent actually sold me 1500 LBird's and about 70% of them were dead, probably because they had been sitting in the refrigerator to long.
It can be hard to distinguish the survival rate at the time of purchase because majority of the time the bugs have not warmed up enough to begin moving around their container.
Needless to say, the store remedied the mistake, Im sure Homegrown would do the same...
BeaverHuntr
Well-Known Member
Predatory Mites > Lady bugs all day!
Predatory Mites are the shit. You plant the eggs by the spider mites infestation and then BAM ! When they hatch its all over. The predatory mites feed on spider mites all day and then when all are gone they turn on each other and go cannibal and bite each others heads off until they are all gone.. And its 100% organic .. Fight mother nature with mother nature!
Predatory Mites are the shit. You plant the eggs by the spider mites infestation and then BAM ! When they hatch its all over. The predatory mites feed on spider mites all day and then when all are gone they turn on each other and go cannibal and bite each others heads off until they are all gone.. And its 100% organic .. Fight mother nature with mother nature!
Dignan Redux
Member
Thanks hacker. I've heard about pepper and garlic, too, but just never needed to use it.
I use a mixture of lavender FPE, neem and silica.
Lavender FPE is an organic miticide and a wonderful foliar fertilizer.
Neem makes life hard on mites by covering them with a coating and also coating leaves with a protective waxy layer.
Silica is used as an emulsifier for the neem.
Full coverage is critical. None of this lazy shit where you just spray the room of plants. Pull each plant and spray thoroughly every 7-10 days.
I did not know that silica could be used as an emulsifier. Good tip. How much do you use? Can I use a product pike silica blast from botanicare or rhino skin from advanced? How do you do it?
1337hacker
Active Member
Yes you can use silica blast, but I'd get dyna gro protekt myself if you can get your hands on it. If you read the back of the dynagro neem product it tells you the ratios that you need to adhere to, I believe it's 1 1/2 tsp of protekt per gallon but I could be wrong don't quote me there
1337hacker
Active Member
Btw silica blast, like kelp and fulvic are great taken through the stoma in the leaves.. more effective so than through the roots so A+ to that tip.
Thanks for the tip. I already foliar with fulvic acid with great results. Can you foliar feed with more than one additive? I have only been using one at a time.