Question regarding LED arrays from the country that produces everything

yawen

Member
(This is a repost, as I managed to put my question in the grow section. I apologize in due form). First, hi everybody, new to posting. I am completely lost here. I know there are many controversial opinions on LEDs, but I think it's my main option, as I have heat issues. Temperature here is around 89-97 F during daytime, and 82 F minimum during nighttime. So I plan on a 18/24 during nighttime, switching on around 7 PM and off at 11 AM. I have tried growing outdoors, but in 3 instances I've got my seedlings disappear overnight. Probably some bird or mouse, no idea.


If I finally go with LEDs, I will buy them from a site similar to ebay. I have been researching, and problem is I really don't know what sort of wattages should I'd been looking for, and what spectrum.
I have some autoflowers, plan to have 6-8 plants in a (W)37" 94cm x (H)47,2" 120cm x (D)25,6" 65cm plywood cabinet with negative pressure if can really make it air proof, still considering what sort of door mechanism should I use to guarantee air tightness.

Option 1. The following array is a 15W 12,2 x 12,2 inch panel.

View attachment 2319206
LED Type: BridgeLux
LED Wavelengthλd(nm)Or Tc(k): Red : 630, blue: 460, white6500K
LED Color: Red and Blue and whiteLED Configuration 225*0.06w (154 Red and 47 Blue,24 white)
Lux(centre ) LUX 2.5m, 80/3m, 55/3.5m

According to this, I can put six pieces, for a total of 90 watts. This setup is very inexpensive, about 13$ a piece. If I would go with this setup, I was thinking perhaps is a good idea that two of the panels would be all white or blue.

Option 2, way more powerful and expensive, would be this:

View attachment 2319208

It's a 360 Watts, 120 X 3W LEDs. 80 Red and 40 Blue。 According to seller, output is not exaggerated. :???:

There is not enough information on what sort of LEDs and wavelengths it has. Dimensions are 510x278x90mm or 20"x10.9"x3.5". This is very expensive, about 225$ a piece. Just that it has very powerful LEDs.

Option 4. Another similar proposition, but with more LEDs and information on wavelength is this one:
300Watt
View attachment 2319193
View attachment 2319194

LED: 216 Red 630nm ,36 Blue 460nm ,36 Orange 610nm
This costs 260$


Option 4. And finally I have this other option

1Watt LED x 90 LEDs. 10 Blue, 10 Orange and 70 Red.

View attachment 2319191View attachment 2319192

Wavelenghts Red 660nm, Blue 462nm, Orange 612nm. This has a cost of 85$. I would use 2 or 3 pieces. I think this design wastes a lot of space. and going with at least 2 is equally as expensive as the bigger arrays above. 85$ a pop.

Now here is my question: Are this units a waste of money? Do I really need UV and IR LEDs in addition to Red Blue and Orange? I read that Autos are not as picky regarding light for veg then for flowering, in a word, one set of lights is good for the whole process. Is going on the red spectrum more than on white a good idea?
My very first grow will be on organic soil, way too troublesome to find nutrients for hydro in my location.
 

Damnecro

Active Member
Hiya, I haVe tred down this road. ok the option 2 is gonna be your best grow light it will deliver the most focused light to your plants penetrating deep because of the lensing. I run similar LEDs and even with the supped up power supplies they stay below 80' operating 24 hours a day. The are easy to fix if problems occur. however I suggest you either buy from a distributor going through the patent holding company or from them. There are alot of poorly put together ones that have just been purchased piecemeal and assembled in some yahoo's basement. option 3 and 4 are a joke. as far as spectrum I would suggest no infrared. however on the UV spectrum there are some sweet spots that greatly increase trichomes as it mildly irritates the plant surface. now think this light is warranty for at least 3yrs and the lights themselves are good for up to 5yrs. it takes about a month for the lights to burn in and you will see your room grow brighter and brighter. using the correct spectrum you will probably only have to supply a quarter of the lumens since the plant chlorophyll is being activated by your specific spectrum. the same light can be used throughout. Lean red and hell here is a sample spectrum for ya to think about R:R:B:V:W=660nm:630nm:460nm:425nm:6500k=5:5:3:1:1 that would work very well for both cycles. I don"t use white and I use some more UVb in my bud light. Good luck.


Mr. John Grogan
-Columbia LED and organicssept1 048.jpgView attachment 2320524IMAG1088.jpg
-owner
 

yawen

Member
Hiya, I haVe tred down this road. ok the option 2 is gonna be your best grow light it will deliver the most focused light to your plants penetrating deep because of the lensing. I run similar LEDs and even with the supped up power supplies they stay below 80' operating 24 hours a day. The are easy to fix if problems occur. however I suggest you either buy from a distributor going through the patent holding company or from them. There are alot of poorly put together ones that have just been purchased piecemeal and assembled in some yahoo's basement. option 3 and 4 are a joke. as far as spectrum I would suggest no infrared. however on the UV spectrum there are some sweet spots that greatly increase trichomes as it mildly irritates the plant surface. now think this light is warranty for at least 3yrs and the lights themselves are good for up to 5yrs. it takes about a month for the lights to burn in and you will see your room grow brighter and brighter. using the correct spectrum you will probably only have to supply a quarter of the lumens since the plant chlorophyll is being activated by your specific spectrum. the same light can be used throughout. Lean red and hell here is a sample spectrum for ya to think about R:R:B:V:W=660nm:630nm:460nm:425nm:6500k=5:5:3:1:1 that would work very well for both cycles. I don"t use white and I use some more UVb in my bud light. Good luck.


Mr. John Grogan
-Columbia LED and organicsView attachment 2320523View attachment 2320524View attachment 2320525
-owner
Thank you for your reply. I will buy from manufacturer, as I am located in suggested country. My only concern with option 2 is if there is any heat sink inside there. It looks like a copy of the blackstar, but without the aluminium heat sink, at least from pictures. If the LEDs go wrong, it's very easy and cheap for me to buy replacements. But no way I have 3 years warranty in this country. As for UV LEDs, do you recommend another fixture, perhaps perpendicular, with just some LEDs to provide some irritation?
 

*BUDS

Well-Known Member
Sounds like your in the tropics. Dont fall into this led trap it will put your growing career in reverse bro Get HID lighting with cooltubes , you wont have heat issue will produce much heavier buds and much better quality than Led.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
660 is very useful during FLOWER, not during veg.

Also note the chart shows 460-580 is part of the overall equation (~ 20%). Why this has been ignored by 99% of led mfgs is insane.

Newer Warm/Neutral Whites cover 95% of the mmj spectrum. I would add some 660s on a separate circuit to flip on during flower


Buds' reply is pure ignorance
 

Damnecro

Active Member
ya there is a beefy heat sink the LED array chips are attached too with thermal paste to encourage heat transfer. one for each side.. 46-580Beta carotenoids are about the worst light absorption vehicle so I plan on that area of the spectrum to be taken care of by the color blending that typically occurs about 2-3ft away from the lights. I run very different lights for veg aND bud , one for both is difficult to accomadate for since the veg light runs with much more power output behind it ,diffused through wider lenses. Even so our light has to stay about 2-3 ft from the plant canopy or the plants just stops and soaks up the love.
 

Endur0xX

Well-Known Member
Sounds like your in the tropics. Dont fall into this led trap it will put your growing career in reverse bro Get HID lighting with cooltubes , you wont have heat issue will produce much heavier buds and much better quality than Led.
do you say that because you couldnt grow with LEDs >?

to the OP : BUDS is partially right, dont get shitty lights from ebay or random lights from china, buy good lights from reputable companies or else do what BUDS said with HID and cooltubes if thats what you are going to do.
 

yawen

Member
ya there is a beefy heat sink the LED array chips are attached too with thermal paste to encourage heat transfer. one for each side.. 46-580Beta carotenoids are about the worst light absorption vehicle so I plan on that area of the spectrum to be taken care of by the color blending that typically occurs about 2-3ft away from the lights. I run very different lights for veg aND bud , one for both is difficult to accomadate for since the veg light runs with much more power output behind it ,diffused through wider lenses. Even so our light has to stay about 2-3 ft from the plant canopy or the plants just stops and soaks up the love.
Do you mean the minimum distance from the canopy to the plan is 3ft? Then I should discard this proposition, as I can only have a maximum of 1 ft when the plants are fully grown. My cabinet height is 3.7 ft tall and cannot be taller.

As for comments regarding HID lights, I discard them because heat issues. I will grow in a balcony, where outside temperature is about 86 F during off peak light hours, when I plan to switch on lights. I may go with T5s-T8s instead. How about less powerful LEDs, as my first option in first post? has anyone tried them? What is the output of 90W of LEDs compared to about 150-180W of CFLs? I may go ahead and try, but I have already wasted 2 months trying to grow outside, and my seedlings have disappeared, not to mention slow growth because of heat and only 13 hours of light. Weather now is becoming less of an issue, but is still going to be hot for the next two months.

I am not really out for big yields, just to have a three to five ounces and seeds (I will bring males outside to another location and one female for reproduction) every harvest to keep having something to grow and smoke. My auto strain has very small yields, tops 1 ounce per plant growing on soil and under CFLs. It's Devon Maid.

There is nothing wrong in buying from China, as long as you know what you are buying. I don't expect fully reliable technology, but is the only thing I have access to.
 

Damnecro

Active Member
that's the veg light that I use and do testing with that makes the canopy stop, the budding lights or the spectrum i suggested earlier would run off a small power supply and be less intense our buds have no trouble growing towards the lights
I have imported from cidly for 2yrs now, they have paypal so no sketchy bank transfers. The packaging and item were top notch and run very well here is some photos of a recently received shipment. IMAG1079.jpgIMAG1084.jpgIMAG1085.jpgIMAG1086.jpgthey took the time to teach me how to repair one and always have honored any inquiry about the warranty.
 

Rapunzel

Member
that's the veg light that I use and do testing with that makes the canopy stop, the budding lights or the spectrum i suggested earlier would run off a small power supply and be less intense our buds have no trouble growing towards the lights
I have imported from cidly for 2yrs now, they have paypal so no sketchy bank transfers. The packaging and item were top notch and run very well here is some photos of a recently received shipment. View attachment 2322791View attachment 2322792View attachment 2322793View attachment 2322794they took the time to teach me how to repair one and always have honored any inquiry about the warranty.
Was this a kit they sent you, or was that the repair? These look so much like blackstar chromes, have heard that they are and are not the same thing, any thoughts on that?
 
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