Can I remove this wall stud? I am thinking yes but need some advice...

[hotrodharley]

No joist hangers required there because of the 2X4 wall under it. Joist hangers are only required if you don't have the 1 1/2" bearing on the joists. The question we need to ask is how long is that joist? We can only see one end of course. The load on that joist is calculated by the 1/2 the length. Example if that joist is only say 8' long than the load is 4'X1.4' (joist spacing)X45lbs (live load) A double top plate (which is what you have there) can support the end of a 48' roof truss & that's on a 24" center. That is a hell of a lot of load compared to the floor joist. Can't tell for sure without the rest of the information, but I would have no issues removing that joist assuming there isn't a point load above it (which there shouldn't be because only single stud. Point loads are a minimum of 2 studs. PS I am a home builder in my other life & have well over 40 years in the trades but this is all only my opinion & everyone has one of those Similar to assholes I hear. Good luck!
QUOTE=Warlock1369;7967329]I wouldn't. Notice how your 2x8 floor support above it is all ready splitting! And that's not upto today's codes ether. There should be steel brackets joining the 2 2x8s.

[/QUOTE]

+rep for knowing something that is actually useful here and in life. Lots of posters here do know their stuff while many more don't know which end of the cow is the exhaust.

 

[hotrodharley]

Here's a closeup of the split, and the nail that caused it (you can see it was never even finished nailing, guessing the framers messed this up ages ago) Kind of half ass support as is if you ask me, lol.

Here's a farriers view on that joist. That smaller section is now supporting the entire load the missing piece would have shared make the stress point even narrower. Making it even more important, to me, to not tempt fate, gravity or seismic activity. Never mess with a load bearing wall unless you are replacing it with an arch. Blame it on me building so much in adobe.

 

[DrGribble]

Thanks again for all the responses guys, and Warlock that image you posted is pretty much what I had in mind to an extent (although my idea was a little bit less thorough) I am going to just avoid this for now though most likely... I have been brainstorming ever since and will probably just try some other things or maybe even expand my room size eventually if need be.

 

[SOMEBEECH]

Just getting interesting!!!!

 

[ItsSaturday]

Sounds like this may be more than I figured it would be, I was hoping just having one gap in the grand scheme of things would be ok and did not figure I'd need to support it while I did the work but if that's the case I'll probably just leave well enough alone and not scrog in there. Like I said that's under my basement stairs and immediately to the left of it is a door way (which is a good 32 inches in width or so, kind of made me think it would be OK since it's kind of the same thing, a section without a Stud but I know doors are framed differently so I am guessing that's why it's OK

I took a couple more pics, not sure if they're helpful at all or just redundant, about 1-2 feet to the right of the stud I want to remove is concrete too, the end is supported by the concrete foundation of the house so another thing that made me think it might be ok, plus the area being supported by that 2x4 is right at the doorway to the stairwell (above) Also the one shot is looking into the room and the red lines depict roughly the location of the red lines in the previous pic but looking from outside and next to the stairway (wall to the left)

I don't want to cause any issues, if this is not cool I'll just not do it... i was simply going to saw it out.

Pictures 2 and 3 are Load Baring walls. Do not remove the studs unless you know what you are doing... or want part if not all of your house to collapse...

 

[carl.burnette]

FOR THE RECORD I AM ONLY STATING MY opinion!! Dont do SHIT unless you know what your doing!

Lol.. Education works my friend. But to be sure I did not intend to piss anyone off. If you work in construction you know there are 100 ways to do any one thing & THEY ALL WORK. I didn't call you an asshole. Hell, I could care less.
Grab a calculator & figure out the loads junior. Forget what you KNOW. You think there is more or less of a load based on the truss length or the floor joist? Its not hard. There's about 4 numbers you need.
Also, re read my post. I didn't tell them to do ANYTHING. I only said what I would do. & yes, depending on the length of the joist which seeing how its a 2X8 I assume the span is less that 12'. That means the load is 6' of that. Doubled top plate has no problem carrying that load. Draw a picture, use colors to trace the loads. Trust me, you'll get it.

Don't speak to what you don't know about. Its ok to ask questions though.

BTW. Was that a doorway or the stair hole we were looking at the picture of? Where the framing questions started?

Look at the pics. I'd be more concerned with the doubled header around the stairwell with the load not being carried to the footings by a post.

Go back & look.. You'll see it..

Have a nice day

i love engineering.. It overrides the building departments

Are you calling me a asshole? Thanks . I just pointed out that the floor joist is split. To me that means a few things. 1 it was split by the framer but it dosnt look that old. There is a load on it making it split or there was movement of the house. And sence it's right under a the doorway and not a proper header I wouldn't advise removing it. Atleast not having a better look and knowing the area better. And saying you have 40 years in it and saying just remove it is bs. If it is load baring witch we can realy tell. A real contractor would say brace it remove the stud add a header and reinforce the header with 2 2x4 attached to the other vert 2x4's.

 

[hotrodharley]

Just getting interesting!!!!

Wonder where she got that amazing bowl? I'd like one for bud.

 

[hotrodharley]

Look at the pics. I'd be more concerned with the doubled header around the stairwell with the load not being carried to the footings by a post.

Go back & look.. You'll see it..

Have a nice day

i love engineering.. It overrides the building departments

This is where a knowledgeable person places a real arch - one of the strongest structures known. IF an opening must be created. I have made them of steel with uprights of I or H beam with the arch spans welded in for custom adobes already up. These were then boxed and 90# felt applied, chickenwire stapled over and stucco shot on and nobody is the wiser. But engineers or real load experts are who sent the drawings and specs. And these headers would be jacked under load while all this is taking place to ensure alignment remains constant.

Like you said there are more than a few ways to get 'er done. But not me for a frigging pot grow. Sorry. Getting way cheaper to buy at that point and wait for spring. Guerrilla grow.

 

[Warlock1369]

FOR THE RECORD I AM ONLY STATING MY opinion!! Dont do SHIT unless you know what your doing!

Lol.. Education works my friend. But to be sure I did not intend to piss anyone off. If you work in construction you know there are 100 ways to do any one thing & THEY ALL WORK. I didn't call you an asshole. Hell, I could care less.
Grab a calculator & figure out the loads junior. Forget what you KNOW. You think there is more or less of a load based on the truss length or the floor joist? Its not hard. There's about 4 numbers you need.
Also, re read my post. I didn't tell them to do ANYTHING. I only said what I would do. & yes, depending on the length of the joist which seeing how its a 2X8 I assume the span is less that 12'. That means the load is 6' of that. Doubled top plate has no problem carrying that load. Draw a picture, use colors to trace the loads. Trust me, you'll get it.

Don't speak to what you don't know about. Its ok to ask questions though.

BTW. Was that a doorway or the stair hole we were looking at the picture of? Where the framing questions started?

Look at the pics. I'd be more concerned with the doubled header around the stairwell with the load not being carried to the footings by a post.

Go back & look.. You'll see it..

Have a nice day

i love engineering.. It overrides the building departments

My photo and link shows more then what you said. As a inspector I would stop construction till bright up to code. And if you are telling me it is I'm gonna laff as I hand you the pink card. I'm a jack of all trades master of none. But certified inspector of most. That's wright Im the ass that shuts shity jobs like this down.

 

[Warlock1369]

This is where a knowledgeable person places a real arch - one of the strongest structures known. IF an opening must be created. I have made them of steel with uprights of I or H beam with the arch spans welded in for custom adobes already up. These were then boxed and 90# felt applied, chickenwire stapled over and stucco shot on and nobody is the wiser. But engineers or real load experts are who sent the drawings and specs. And these headers would be jacked under load while all this is taking place to ensure alignment remains constant.

Like you said there are more than a few ways to get 'er done. But not me for a frigging pot grow. Sorry. Getting way cheaper to buy at that point and wait for spring. Guerrilla grow.

A arch isn't needed but a proper header is.

 

[Warlock1369]

Love it when people talk shit till they find out who there fighting and no word after. I cover Cali so relax chances of us meeting is small.

 

[patlpp]

Fucking union workers....geeez, saw the fucker down , if you see sag, my bad.

 

[Warlock1369]

Yes saw it down. But do it safe. And that is in my pic. I'm more for your safety then code. I'm not on this job so I don't care. Be safe is all I say.

 

[DrGribble]

Yeah that picture you posted 'looks' as if it would be pretty damn sturdy to me, at this point with all the back-and-forth going on about the subject and level of seriousness I think I am just going to say fuck it at this point and leave it alone though. I did not expect this to create such a stir nor did I think it would be detrimental to the structural integrity of the home but that's also why I don't build houses for a living. It's a pain in the ass to access that area of my grow but I'd rather deal with a pain in the ass watering and training every other day than deal with anything more severe anyway. I still feel like what was shown in your diagram looked very safe to me but again, I'm no structural engineer.

 

[carl.burnette]

With all due respect. & I only type this because if we were in a room I wouls have spit it out without thinking. SO I apologize in advance & this really is an ass remark more for show than anything..

Those that cannot do teach, consult or inspect.

LOL..

My photo and link shows more then what you said. As a inspector I would stop construction till bright up to code. And if you are telling me it is I'm gonna laff as I hand you the pink card. I'm a jack of all trades master of none. But certified inspector of most. That's wright Im the ass that shuts shity jobs like this down.

 

[Warlock1369]

With all due respect. & I only type this because if we were in a room I wouls have spit it out without thinking. SO I apologize in advance & this really is an ass remark more for show than anything..

Those that cannot do teach, consult or inspect.

LOL..

True I would still be doing the work if I didn't take a 20' fall landing on my back fucking me up for life. I still do the job from time to time but can't go more then 2 weeks. But got 4 kids so needed to find a way to support them. I said the samething but now its not that I can't do the work. But I can't do it even thow I want to. This was the best I could do without leaving the field.