How to keep your reservoir cool

hellraizer30 said:
Hell no not 10 degrees
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By around how much would it drop it then, because the a res. tank is around 80 degrees. There is new root growth that looks amazing and have not had root rot but have been battling this temp for about a week. I have 8 airstones for a 20 gal tank and am using H202, I have not had any problems yet but I want to get the temp closer to 72. Would that technique get it that low?
 
Going to throw my opinion out there about this thread.

I came in here to go over ideas about cooling a reservoir. What fatman has done here is make a drunken typo runon troll out of himself. He took pages of this and made it a dam soap opera. While his knowledge may be vast.... (Ya you get a lot of time to read in prison I know.) You totally missed the reason for this thread and thus hijacking it. If you Sir were any kind of Man you would reread all you wrote and admit wrong.

CDXX thank you for your post about how something worked for you in your situation.

I would love to hear what other are using and what is working for your setup per its specs. I am going to start a test DWC starting off with a cooler which will give me insulation right off the bat. I will do a write up on it and share with the RIU community.
 
superstoner1 said:
You are preaching about an 8 month old post. Let sleeping dogs lie.
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I dgaf about post dates.I researched this and it came up, other might do the same so unless this forum prunes lets consider grave digging an act of further adding to the thread. I am looking to add to the subject of the OP why dont you take heed to your own words....:roll: Just because your couldn't cool your hemorrhoids with an ice probe doesn't mean you need to come add unnecessary comments.

PS by the time you replied the post was 5 years old so just st#u

GOOD DAY SIR
 
I know it's an old post but wanted to let people know ice probe is junk. you'd be better off with frozen water bottles. I had one in a 9 gallon tote unit in a grow tent and it did almost zero improvement. I bought it because I didnt want to use my 1/4 HP chiller on such small grow. Total waste of time and money...ruined a tote making hole for probe.
 
I've been using a fan over my resivor for over a month. It will for sure keep resivor at 64-65 ( house temp 62-69) with a 1000k HPS, tent at 77. But I know I lose about a half gallon a day due to evap. This option is great, until you can buy/ make a chiller. 2liter bottles NEVER WORKED!
 
fatman7574 said:
Some good info here but the thread starter began the thread out with lots of bad info that pretty much makes almost all the other information moot. A properly set up and run system does not need cool reservoir temperatures so as to have reservoir water with a higher DO. Nutrients are actually taken up better at warmer temps about equal to the plants temperature. Plants roots really do not need a lot of DO, so the temp is not an issue. The issue is large masses of roots suspended in water (DWC) or laying thick in the bottom of a tube or a through can not get access to enough water with DO as most water never comes into contact with the center of the large root masses in ost sysytems. Indreasing staurated oxygen by lowering the ten mps still dies nor bring the root masses center roots into contact with more water so the whole issue of temps and higher DO therefore is entirely moot. The difference in bacterial growth between 68 degrees F and 90 degrees F is pretty negligible. Build and operate better systems and quit thinking lower temps and higher DO is the answer to bacterial problems such as root rot. It is not the naswer. syatems such as samll y tube aeros, NTF am nd poorly circulated DWC with too many plants can easily develop root ri ot even with low temps and g high DO. Poor designs and poor operation is the problem not reservoir temp and reservoir DO. If the DO all around a root mass is high but the DO of the water in the center of the root mass is zero or near to zero there will be root rot. Lowering the temp and thereby possibly raisng the DO around the rooyts does not mean the center of the root mass receives any more watercirculation than before so it wil still have zero or near to zero DO water there, so root rot will develop. This hold true for DWC, NTF, and small tube aero systems.

Simple as that. Yes there are things that can be done to help those systems but no one asked for that information they just wasted time talking about needlessly lowering reservoir water temps. Go figure.
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Indeed Fatman..I'd like to hear bout DAT info if you feel up to Telln me,,bout to set up my first DWC grow & I hope I got everything I need,,two 30gal totes planning on two plants each tub & I got two 1,152gph commercial air pumps 2agragrow 450 gph sub pumps for my top feed..you know da bells &whistles I'm GONA be in a 52x52x78 tent with 10 different LEDs & 1000w Dimmable,, do I really have to be so scared of water temps or can you tell me how to grow these four plants without root rot or bacterial infestations..THANX
 
Anyone trying to bitch out Superstoner obviously does not know his credentials. That he is an aero\hydro expert with years of experience. Check the profile before you talk mess. Stinkbud family will never steer you in the wrong direction when it comes to indoor growing
 
After reading over this link, I combined several of the methods & added my own thing. My new RDWC system consisting of six 9 gallon modules (5gal buckets w cone tops that hold 10 inch netpot) running on 1200 gph EXTERNAL inline water pump with a 60 quart cooler as res. This is how I built in detail for anyone else wanting to run RDWC and say mother Fuck that chiller bullshit. If your like any normal grower, your around your garden once every three days at least.

1st thing was to go with a nice better than dollar store good sized well insulated cooler that has a drain. Got my 60 quart which rolls on wheels with a handle for $35 in the winter time. Probably cheaper now. I bought a few sheets of MDF board, couple hinges, some cheap window seal kits, couple sheets of board insulation, & screws. In short: I built a box from MDF that the cooler would sit in leaving 6 inches extra on all 4 sides and big enough to line all the way around cooler with insulation boarding, Then made the lid so it sat flush on top and sealed with weather stripping. The 6 inch gap allows coolers original lid to be propped open 3 inches where I have four 80mm computer fans set up in different directions blowing air over top of res. Inside the res I can put 6 frozen 1 liter bottles and at the bottom I have two 9" disc diffusers made for wastewater treatment plants ( got both for $20) these keep the DO supercharged. When shut and sealed & because my res is located in the closet of my grow room the one liter bottles will stay frozen for almost 3 days no bull shit.

2nd thing I did was run 3/4" black Poly hose to my pump. My 1200 gph pump then connects to my homemade from cheap PVC pipe one in 6 outlet water manifold all made from 3/4" PVC. Each bucket has it's 3/4" bulkhead intake up installed with a ball valve near the right under the lid of the net pot with a simple 90' elbow trimmed down on one end inside to create waterfall effect & keeping water from blasting into netpot. I did this because as you all know the waterfall effect is the best producer of DO in nature. At the bottom of each bucket I installed TWO 3/4" bulkheads connected to a Y piece running back to the res. I used two rather than buying more stuff that was different sized and not knowing how well it would drain. Both drains have ball valves to making dialing it in and removing one bucket from system simple.

3rd thing is every bit of 3/4" hose is covered with cheap pipe insulation. The stuff you can buy 40 ft of for $15 to wrap your pipes in the winter with heat tape. Plus all six 5 gallon buckets are wrapped in cheap hot water heater blanket fabric. Keeping everything insulated then covered with mylar to reflect, res and both 1000 watt ballast located outside of room not to mention the two heavy duty CPU computer heatsinks with 92mm fans I installed onto my external inline water pump (worried it was going to heat up my water) has me sitting easilt at 68'F with an air temperature of 78' using NO CHILLER! Just a little ingenuity. So thank you everyone in this thread for your input, this is what I've came up with. I've yet to see anything that resembles root rot and as long as I change out the frozen 1 liters every 3rd day it runs consistent.
 
fatman7574 said:
Some good info here but the thread starter began the thread out with lots of bad info that pretty much makes almost all the other information moot. A properly set up and run system does not need cool reservoir temperatures so as to have reservoir water with a higher DO. Nutrients are actually taken up better at warmer temps about equal to the plants temperature. Plants roots really do not need a lot of DO, so the temp is not an issue. The issue is large masses of roots suspended in water (DWC) or laying thick in the bottom of a tube or a through can not get access to enough water with DO as most water never comes into contact with the center of the large root masses in ost sysytems. Indreasing staurated oxygen by lowering the ten mps still dies nor bring the root masses center roots into contact with more water so the whole issue of temps and higher DO therefore is entirely moot. The difference in bacterial growth between 68 degrees F and 90 degrees F is pretty negligible. Build and operate better systems and quit thinking lower temps and higher DO is the answer to bacterial problems such as root rot. It is not the naswer. syatems such as samll y tube aeros, NTF am nd poorly circulated DWC with too many plants can easily develop root ri ot even with low temps and g high DO. Poor designs and poor operation is the problem not reservoir temp and reservoir DO. If the DO all around a root mass is high but the DO of the water in the center of the root mass is zero or near to zero there will be root rot. Lowering the temp and thereby possibly raisng the DO around the rooyts does not mean the center of the root mass receives any more watercirculation than before so it wil still have zero or near to zero DO water there, so root rot will develop. This hold true for DWC, NTF, and small tube aero systems.

Simple as that. Yes there are things that can be done to help those systems but no one asked for that information they just wasted time talking about needlessly lowering reservoir water temps. Go figure.
Click to expand...
Hey fatman,
I am living in Thailand, and about to start a hydroponics farm
I want to do it correctly, could you please email me your tel number so i can ask you a few things. [email protected]
Khun John
 
Jonathan Lourie said:
Hey fatman,
I am living in Thailand, and about to start a hydroponics farm
I want to do it correctly, could you please email me your tel number so i can ask you a few things. [email protected]
Khun John
Click to expand...

lol notacop

I freeze R/O water and add it too my res. A/c coming in near the res and maybe 216 cubic inches (6"x6"x6") of ice a day keeps the res cool. 35 gallons 1200w
 
First off. Yes this is an old thread. Maybe my info will help someone.
I am using an igloo 28 qt peltier cooler as my aero neut chamber water cooler. It is able to keep my neut water at 60 degrees.
I have grown one crop so far this way and am on my second. So far so good.
 
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