The Main-Lining Thread

dabumps

dabumps

Well-Known Member
How does SS do strait in the ground? Does it need more? Is it pointless because it gets washed away by the rain?
 
nugbuckets

nugbuckets

Well-Known Member
...post up in the SS forum, see what you get bro.....my DT was in a 20 gal. smartie in the greenhouse.

...just for conversation sake, my QT that i put in the ground was by far my smallest yielder....go figure....breathable pots kick ass, but only work with daily supervision...:leaf:
 
SpicySativa

SpicySativa

Well-Known Member
nugbuckets said:
...post up in the SS forum, see what you get bro.....my DT was in a 20 gal. smartie in the greenhouse.

...just for conversation sake, my QT that i put in the ground was by far my smallest yielder....go figure....breathable pots kick ass, but only work with daily supervision...:leaf:
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That's really interesting to me... Not to derail this thread, but what if you were to start out in say a 10 gallon smart pot, fill that with a nice fibrous, air-pruned root ball, THEN transplant it into the ground with SS? Kindof the best of both worlds, if you will. What's your native soil like out there?
 
Budologist420

Budologist420

Well-Known Member
SpicySativa said:
That's really interesting to me... Not to derail this thread, but what if you were to start out in say a 10 gallon smart pot, fill that with a nice fibrous, air-pruned root ball, THEN transplant it into the ground with SS? Kindof the best of both worlds, if you will. What's your native soil like out there?
Click to expand...

Thats what I did outdoors this year, cept I went from a 20 gal. smartie to the ground with SS
 
nugbuckets

nugbuckets

Well-Known Member
SpicySativa said:
That's really interesting to me... Not to derail this thread, but what if you were to start out in say a 10 gallon smart pot, fill that with a nice fibrous, air-pruned root ball, THEN transplant it into the ground with SS? Kindof the best of both worlds, if you will. What's your native soil like out there?
Click to expand...
right, but if you notice a lot of the tree growers have raised smartie beds that root prune throughout the entire cycle...why deprive yourself of the benefits if you don't need to.....i just bought a bunch more 2 gal. smarts for my vegging plants!.....they WAY out perform hard side pots....as a matter of fact, i still use hard sides, but only to suppress growth....if i have small plants of different sizes, and i want to get them all equaled up so i can flower them together, i will put the larger ones in hard sides, and the smaller ones in smarties, and in a few weeks they will be the same size!
 
SpicySativa

SpicySativa

Well-Known Member
nugbuckets said:
right, but if you notice a lot of the tree growers have raised smartie beds that root prune throughout the entire cycle...why deprive yourself of the benefits if you don't need to.....i just bought a bunch more 2 gal. smarts for my vegging plants!.....they WAY out perform hard side pots....as a matter of fact, i still use hard sides, but only to suppress growth....if i have small plants of different sizes, and i want to get them all equaled up so i can flower them together, i will put the larger ones in hard sides, and the smaller ones in smarties, and in a few weeks they will be the same size!
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Good point. Why cut the benefits if you don't need to? I've made the switch to smart pots as well. I've been starting my seedling's in little hard pots, but from there on its all smarties. No more root binding for me.
 
captainmorgan

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
Some organic pest control.
These are a mix of three different predators and only paid $32 shipped with taxes for the Triple Threat 100 count.Most places sell them by the 1000 which for a small indoor grow is a waste.Here you can buy 100 which is plenty for me because you only need a few per plant.They're coming from Nature's Control in Oregon but I save $10 from here instead of getting them direct from nature's control.Got this link from another thread here at RIU.
http://homeharvest.com/beneinsspidermites.htm
 
Rrog

Rrog

Well-Known Member
That southern sun is certainly a luxury. Look what you can do. Those will gourmet rare quality buds, I'm sure. I supplement indoor, underground in a bunker (just to grow a small plant... WTF is wrong with this country?) with UV-b in hopes of picking up a teeny bit more of what the sun dumps on us daily.
 
Shwagbag

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
captainmorgan said:
Some organic pest control.
These are a mix of three different predators and only paid $32 shipped with taxes for the Triple Threat 100 count.Most places sell them by the 1000 which for a small indoor grow is a waste.Here you can buy 100 which is plenty for me because you only need a few per plant.They're coming from Nature's Control in Oregon but I save $10 from here instead of getting them direct from nature's control.Got this link from another thread here at RIU.
http://homeharvest.com/beneinsspidermites.htm
Click to expand...
I recently tried some predatory mites from nature's control. A great idea and concept but if you already notice any signs of mites then they most likely won't help you control them. It takes 4-6 weeks for them to colonize and it also takes a heavy concentration of mites to establish a colony. I used 2,000 for two average sized tents with small bushy plants in the vegging stage, and unfortunately had to abandon the effort. In the end I ended up using a Doktor Doom bomb, Azamax and hot shot no pest strips. I got a sweet new product today that's from SNS called SNS -209. Its a systemic application of rosemeric acid. Once feeding has been established for a couple of weeks it is said that any insects that try to feed off the plants will become sick and stop feeding until their population dwindles and is forced into eradication. My hope is that with the combination of treatments over 4-6 weeks I will have them annihilated! One bomb per week and Azamax at the initiation of flowering for all plants switching photoperiods.

I would recommend a miniumum of 500-1000 per 4 x 4 growing space. And as I said, if you are already seeing them then the predators most likely won't win the battle in the short term. Do everything you can to raise the humidity as well as spider mites multiply more slowly and the predators flourish. This is another thing I had little control over as I don't have capable humidifiers and I use AC. I simply couldn't allow the mites to continue to spread while I waited for the predators to colonize, and my infestation was what I would call under control with little to almost no webbing whatsoever. Good luck, but be prepared. Check out the SNS-209, I really wanted to use this product with the predators but time was not on my side.
 
captainmorgan

captainmorgan

Well-Known Member
Shwagbag said:
I recently tried some predatory mites from nature's control. A great idea and concept but if you already notice any signs of mites then they most likely won't help you control them. It takes 4-6 weeks for them to colonize and it also takes a heavy concentration of mites to establish a colony. I used 2,000 for two average sized tents with small bushy plants in the vegging stage, and unfortunately had to abandon the effort. In the end I ended up using a Doktor Doom bomb, Azamax and hot shot no pest strips. I got a sweet new product today that's from SNS called SNS -209. Its a systemic application of rosemeric acid. Once feeding has been established for a couple of weeks it is said that any insects that try to feed off the plants will become sick and stop feeding until their population dwindles and is forced into eradication. My hope is that with the combination of treatments over 4-6 weeks I will have them annihilated! One bomb per week and Azamax at the initiation of flowering for all plants switching photoperiods.

I would recommend a miniumum of 500-1000 per 4 x 4 growing space. And as I said, if you are already seeing them then the predators most likely won't win the battle in the short term. Do everything you can to raise the humidity as well as spider mites multiply more slowly and the predators flourish. This is another thing I had little control over as I don't have capable humidifiers and I use AC. I simply couldn't allow the mites to continue to spread while I waited for the predators to colonize, and my infestation was what I would call under control with little to almost no webbing whatsoever. Good luck, but be prepared. Check out the SNS-209, I really wanted to use this product with the predators but time was not on my side.
Click to expand...
I'm 33 days into flower so I don't want to spray anything.It's 4 plants on a 2' x 4' scrog screen and the afected area is only the size of a bowling ball so I spotted them very early.I'm also interested in this product but like I said,don't want to spray this far into flower.
http://www.flyingskull.net/proddetail.php?prod=NukeEm
 
Shwagbag

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
captainmorgan said:
I'm 33 days into flower so I don't want to spray anything.It's 4 plants on a 2' x 4' scrog screen and the afected area is only the size of a bowling ball so I spotted them very early.I'm also interested in this product but like I said,don't want to spray this far into flower.
http://www.flyingskull.net/proddetail.php?prod=NukeEm
Click to expand...
I gotcha... I like the sound of that stuff, and the name lol. Do you object to the Hot Shot No Pest Strips? They have served me well, although I stopped replacing them eventually and the mites have returned. I can't provide any feedback on the SNS-209, but the idea of low concentrations of organic systemic additives sounds great to me. You just add it to your watering solution and the active ingredient is rosemeric acid. They do recommend that you stop using 2 weeks before harvest though. I didn't know anything about RA until I read the wiki page, it sounds like a little gem!
 
Shwagbag

Shwagbag

Well-Known Member
She's lovely! Man I just love the aesthetics of cheese with its yellow and green frostinessssssss. I've never grown but she looks like a winner!
 
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