beyond magic flowamaster! simply mindblowing. you are a wizard in the garden. im really touched by your sensitivity and the way you apply your intuition and technical knowledge. you INCEREDIBLE!! these buds are going to be MASSIVE!!
couple questions for you masta...
Dr.Repair has made your leaves a wonderful dark colour which you say will benifit in the light absorption correct? Is this a strain issue? Presently my PE is a nice colour but my COttoncandy is a light green. I backed up her light thinkin it might be light bleaching but really not sure. I use Flora Nova Bloom, cal mag and H202. what would you do ? is dr repair ok to use with those nutrients?
Im also very curious about the branching structures our hydro girls create .. Mine seem to vary a bit and i have documented each branching system in a post. Is this also strain dependent or is it a response to the way i topped and fimmed at early veg.? My PE branching structure is so wacked out lookin and gives me the heebee geebees..lol. but shes strong and healthy...and her branch is leaning about a 30 degree angle to the side, do you forsee a problem with this?, whats your take on the branching structure?
U fUckin ROCK DUDE! love ya!!
Thanx Conkey so love ya comments! always worth getting up in the morning to check my posts out for all you awesome people
Conkey you have inspired me to do some art, due to a medical issue that stopped me from using my hands properly for over 5 years i have finally gained the strength to bend my hands in the right ways to get some artwork happening
I'm Drawing a 'FlowaMasta' Placard for my tent see if i've still got the edge as you clearly always have had!
Dr. Repair will make your leaves a nice dark green, but i don't like to give it any later than week 3 in flowering as the food will last quite a while and since i gave the extra 1ml dose (2ml instead of 1ml) This could be strain dependant perhaps i like to think more of climate conditioning. Not only will certain elements be affected by certain Ph levels but temperatures will also play a major game in the way they change and react to other elements. I like to try and produce a 'rainforest' type environment but not deep in the rainforest more so on the edge of a creek just into the more humid areas of fauna. I believe the more fluffy type strains of weed are more suited for humid environments so therefore they will handle more magnesium and burn more nitrogen, so trying to synthesize nature is kind of possible, so i push things pretty hard. It may not look like much moves in my tent but that white fan up top is on max setting (3) as well as the bottom 2 fans for circulation. Not to mention my Evap cooler that constantly pumps humid air into the tent at around 23 degrees. This will bump the humidity up to around 70% when the light is off, with the mass fans and circulation the humid environment is perfectly safe provided always kept clean AND the air is replaced with fresh air and the used air MUST be exhausted. When the light comes back on humidity will drop slowly to around 50% over 3-4 hours Creating a hot and mildly sweaty environment which forces the plant to eat more to sustain energy, and to not only retain more water but drink more. I think Dr. Repair would be suited for all hydro and outdoor growing
but again no later than week 3 in flower..... I know the cyco booklet states to feed it all the way to the end, but that to me is a total waste as half way through flowering the plant is naturally starting to burn through its nitrogen and use up its stored magnesium and potassium for growing the flowers. At the moment the plant has basically just finished 'Flower set' and will begin the swelling phase where the 'P' & 'K' come into the game. This comes from the plant itself NOT what we feed..... Now the way this level drops off will determine when and how your plant will fade out or 'Autumn' and finish drawing all remaining nitrogen out of the leaves pulling all the sugars to the surface of the leaves giving us the 'yellows' and sometimes 'pinks'
They come from the flavanoids of the plant where sugars and resins form, If we don't fade the plant out at all she my want to keep growing or seed or even foxtail.... if we fade out too much we may lose valuable yield or even lose considerable flavour as things will die off before given time and the sugars will not come to surface and there will still be nitrogen and perhaps phosphorous which can give a harsh smoke.
I think branching structure does come down to the strain aswell as topping/fimming/lst techniques, they all keep their genetic code of pattern but i suppose going from flower to veg or visa versa could and usually would change growth considerably as it has with mine, but sticking with the same technique will keep similar results unless temperatures are completely different.
Oh and if you're worried about your 30* angle branch just tie her up in a couple of locations
i have branches growing 90 degrees and if the net gave in well..... lets not go there. My last harvest was CRAZY!!!! half way through trimming and my plant nearly pulled the tent over lol I forget that its a few kgs of wet pot.
Mo is correct in saying Sativas dont need as broad leaves or as dark green as they have more leaves to give photosynthesis so the leaves can be more transparent allowing light to pass through onto lower parts of the plant. Very easy to over feed a Sativa, however a sativa X
can allow for some VERY large and Psychoactive buds! No more nitrogen, or calcium or magnesium now, only base food, continuing this weeks feeding with potash and MY NEW BLUEBERRY NECTAR from General Hydro which is Cane sugar, Molasses and malt extract with natural flavanoids from blueberries, and it smells deeeeeeelicious!!! going to add some real funk to an already puke worthy strain
UNBELIEVABLE!!!!! BUT, it is the FLOWAMASTA!!!! Awesome work my brotha!
THIS HAS FLOWN BY!! where does time go these days. Didnt i only just put this thing in?? what year is this. Have i been abducted by aliens? whos been writing all this babble!?
I think Sativa plants are more pale because they grow where it is very hot and sunny and so they do not need to have very wide or very dark leaves to get enough sun. Sativa strains also do not like very much nitrogen.
Hit the nail smack on the head
The trick with Sativas is to hitem early with a good dose of food, i think of them like hibernating bears, they store food for longer and always return with such pride. You must be a happy man Mo, and i bet the highest you've ever been LOL
Thanx all for being here again! it's almost frost time. Actually it is..... It stinks down that way
hehe 
i have seen some great humidifiers and its all about output with them, they can be tiny and still put out wicked moisture, but i agree it would be hard to balance the intake and exhaust while battling heat, It maybe that having three tents in 1 room maybe drying the room out even more? you may need a swimming pool in there to battle the heat to keep the humidity up