Get a Harvest Every 2 Weeks

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Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
aright al i also have a question, when u cut your clones from your mom and put them in flowering do u put them straight under or off to the side for a day ??
Clones which have a good spray of roots go straight in to tray1 in the flowering area, which is sharing a 1000HPS with tray2. The plants in tray2 are 2-4wks into flowering and are fairly tall, about 750mm, not far from the finishing height. The light is spaced about 400mm away from the nearest leaves, which are on plants in tray2.

Naturally, the clones being introduced to tray1 are only about 200-225mm tall. This means that the spacing from lamp to leaf for plants in tray1 is around 900mm. Clones are quite happy with being under a 1000 with this much spacing from lamp to leaf.
 

cmak40

Well-Known Member
aright al i also have a question, when u cut your clones from your mom and put them in flowering do u put them straight under or off to the side for a day ?? bc i have mine under 3 100w flurcent lights and i think i caused alot of stress to the clone putting it straight under my 1000 w, should i ease them under the 1000w for a couple days or will it not matter? thanks




later:blsmoke:
Clones which have a good spray of roots go straight in to tray1 in the flowering area, which is sharing a 1000HPS with tray2. The plants in tray2 are 2-4wks into flowering and are fairly tall, about 750mm, not far from the finishing height. The light is spaced about 400mm away from the nearest leaves, which are on plants in tray2.

Naturally, the clones being introduced to tray1 are only about 200-225mm tall. This means that the spacing from lamp to leaf for plants in tray1 is around 900mm. Clones are quite happy with being under a 1000 with this much spacing from lamp to leaf.
i think he means right after the cut al...if you do then no his go under a couple 4 foot florescents for 10-14 days for the roots to set then they go under his 1000 in tray 1 (pretty close al?)

also al do the measurements on the nute we buy matter or do we go by ppm for hydro? sorry if dumb ? if i follow my directions i get about 800 ppm or does it depend on the nute itself?
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Hey al, Do you use co2?
Is it worth it for SOG?
No, I don't use CO2. The benefits can be great, particularly in SoG, but setting it up properly costs about $2000-2500. By 'properly' I mean an E size cylinder & rental, regulator, an automatic measurement and application device and aircon.

i think he means right after the cut al...if you do then no his go under a couple 4 foot florescents for 10-14 days for the roots to set then they go under his 1000 in tray 1 (pretty close al?)
Well, my clonebox has 3x 24" twin tube fluoro light fixtures, if that's the question. The clones stay in the clonebox until they set root.
also al do the measurements on the nute we buy matter or do we go by ppm for hydro? sorry if dumb ? if i follow my directions i get about 800 ppm or does it depend on the nute itself?
All nute makers will suggest different strengths. Yes- you'll measure with a meter and set the ppm you need. I use 1400ppm on flowering, 1500-1800 for the mums.
 

cmak40

Well-Known Member
All nute makers will suggest different strengths. Yes- you'll measure with a meter and set the ppm you need. I use 1400ppm on flowering, 1500-1800 for the mums.
thanx much appreciated, now i gotta get a new ppm tester i accidentally bought one that only goes to 999ppm oh well whats another $100 now that im this far in.
 

BCSKing

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wow Al B. Fuct your setup looks awsome I hope once I get more money I can start to build my setup better then what it is right now
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
al what is EC compared to ppm?
EC (electrical conductivity) is an arbitrary number related to the electrical resistance of a nutrient solution, as opposed to PPM (parts per million), which gives you a more realistic idea of the actual content of ionic compounds (salts of certain nutrient elements such as N, P & K) in an aqueous solution.

1.0EC = 700ppm (usually).
 

butterflykisses

Well-Known Member
hey al i asked you awhile back what you thought of the canna boost have you had a chance to use it yet? i tried it on 6 plants and they yeilded apx 10gm more and the main stems were apx 5mm larger in dia. just wanted to know what u thought. i ran out and wasnt sure if i wanted to make the 400 dollar investment. ill send u some if youll try it. if u havent already.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
hey al i asked you awhile back what you thought of the canna boost have you had a chance to use it yet? i tried it on 6 plants and they yeilded apx 10gm more and the main stems were apx 5mm larger in dia. just wanted to know what u thought. i ran out and wasnt sure if i wanted to make the 400 dollar investment. ill send u some if youll try it. if u havent already.
Nope, haven't tried it. Glad it worked out for you.

I'd like to know how much your production increased expressed as a percentage. '6 plants' is pretty arbitrary as plant sizes in various grow ops vary so much. 10g on a large plant that yields a few oz isn't significant. 10g on one of my deliberately small SoG style plants, which normally yield about 1-1.25oz per plant, could be very significant.

Yep- it's incredibly expensive stuff. My local prices are around $AUD60 for 250ml. Canna's recommended dosage rate for Boost is 2-4ml/L. Presuming 3ml/L, with my 125L tanks, that's 375ml per application (1.5 x 250ml bottles), per each of my 4 tanks, or $75 worth of the stuff each time I mix up a tank. 4 tanks- $300. I dump, clean and mix new tanks twice a month, so there's $600/mo on Canna Boost. That's about 3.5x more than I spend each month on electricity, my greatest input cost at present.

If I could be guaranteed that Canna Boost would increase my op's output by 22%, increasing output by 10oz per month, then it would pay for itself and return a tidy profit.

However, Canna have priced themselves out of the experimentation area. I would need an absolute guarantee that the stuff works before I'd go drop $600/mo on it.

Like with everything else they sell, Canna have gone way overboard on their pricing. If I could not buy Canna nutes at wholesale prices, I would not use them.

When I apply my extended logic filter to this, in a productive grow op where conditions are always right, it is really rather hard to make double digit percentage improvements in output, by any means. 22% would be a major leap. Magic sauce makers often put big claims. I want to see this stuff making huge gains for others before I buy any.
 

cmak40

Well-Known Member
what would you use if you didnt use canna? would you experiment or do you have something in mind?

The Growing Edge Community - Is there a way to convert from ppm to EC? and is basically what youre saying? do you think a ppm meter or ec tester or the hanna ph/ppm/ec tester its expensive but fuk it does all the things i hear about lol. and my nutes chart has ec on it rather than ppm thats why my original question arose...should prob just stick to the chart eh?

EC or PPM - Hydroponics Forum

sorry i also found this...could this conversion be a good way for people that dont know or dont have ec testers you think?
 

hornedfrog2000

Well-Known Member
The pyrex tube is on ebay. fyi some kind of french bread baking thing.

Al, I don't think anyone has really asked this, but do you have neighbors close by? The reason I ask is I'm pretty paranoid about the smell, and was wondering if you can smell your setup say if someone was at your front door. Thanks again.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
what would you use if you didnt use canna? would you experiment or do you have something in mind?
I'd have to experiment because I don't actually have any others in mind.

and is basically what youre saying? do you think a ppm meter or ec tester or the hanna ph/ppm/ec tester its expensive but fuk it does all the things i hear about lol. and my nutes chart has ec on it rather than ppm thats why my original question arose...should prob just stick to the chart eh?
I'm not fond of integrated pH+EC/PPM meters. pH meter electrodes last only 2 years- if the electrode is not user replaceable, you either have to send the meter off for service or buy a new one. Better to have separate ph & nute meters. I'm even less fond of Hanna meters. The don't have a reputation for reliability. I've had a Bluelab Truncheon nute meter in service for 7 years and a Eutech Waterproof pHScan1 for about 6.

Stick to what chart?

sorry i also found this...could this conversion be a good way for people that dont know or dont have ec testers you think?
You must have pH & nute meters. No getting out of it, go buy some.

al where did u get the glass or pyrex for the cool tube mod? i cant find it anywhere
I did not build my cooltubes, bought them off the shelf at Ye Olde Hydroe Shoppe. Some folks have homemade them out of Pyrex Bake-A-Round tubes. Search Bake-A-Round on this board & you will surely find someone who has made some up.

Hey al b fuct. I saw in hightimes a guy using light movers. Did you ever think of that?
I have no need for light movers in my op.

If I had more space to illuminate than my lights could cover, I'd get more lights. Light movers are a band-aid. They even out growth a bit but they do not increase your luminous output. If you have a 1000HPS (which really should be covering about 20sq ft) on a light mover, trying to cover 40 sq ft, you're only laying down half the lumens per sq ft per hour as the stationary lamp over a 20 sq ft space. Thus, each plant is only getting half the luminous energy in this case. Less luminous energy = lower yields per plant, lower bud density.

Linear light movers have another problem; plants in the middle of the traverse get more light than plants on the ends. Rotary light movers solve this to some degree, but it's still a bit of a bodge.

If you think you need a light mover, what you really need is more lights- or fewer plants.

Al, I don't think anyone has really asked this, but do you have neighbors close by? The reason I ask is I'm pretty paranoid about the smell, and was wondering if you can smell your setup say if someone was at your front door. Thanks again.
Solved it. I have killed all my neighbours. :lol: No, kidding, just the nearest ones. ;)

Seriously, I use UV ozone generators to kill scents. No, you can't smell my op- unless you're inside it.
 

PlasmaRadio

Well-Known Member
Al, I don't think anyone has really asked this, but do you have neighbors close by? The reason I ask is I'm pretty paranoid about the smell, and was wondering if you can smell your setup say if someone was at your front door.
You should grow a strain with a less distinctive odour, blueberry and Neville's haze spring to mind, but there are many others.
 
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