Closet 2.0: Dialed in. Back with more PAR T5's, Sannies Genetics, Earth Juice, ++

AltarNation

Well-Known Member
Thanks gigs. I agree that is probably what's happening. I'm not sure if I have a "complete" fertilizer to flush... the gentlest thing i have would be some foxfarm big bloom... very weak.. would that work for what you're describing?

Overall, this seems the most likely explanation... but, looking at the chart, it seems I'd have to be above 7.0 for k lockout... so I guess my ph test is off significantly, or I'm not getting an accurate reading from runoff.

I looked up that ph meter but it looks like it's for hydro... I'd have to test run off... would like to know what kind of reading the soil itself is giving.

I'm also eyeballing the possibility of a magnesium lockout due to too much calcium in the tap water... that is where I'm going next if pH turns out to be okay... I know there's a bit of calcium in the water because we get a bit of buildup on the fixtures. If that's the case, I'm not sure what to do, short of buying an R.O. system... which I expect to be expensive...
 

giggles26

Well-Known Member
Nah that meter works fine for testing your mixes and water. How do I know this you ask? Because I have one and I use it and have only had to calibrate it 2 times since I've gotten it. Don't worry about run off bro, run off don't mean shit in soil trust me. I've never tested run off and have never had a problem. As long as my soil is in check, hence the dolomite lime then run off don't mean shit. Worry about what's going into your soil and make sure there is some kind of buffer in there.

Those test strips are shit and I've found that when something looks like a 6.5 or so it usually tends to be higher. Those things are good for pools and hot tubs where it isn't going to matter as much. Get yourself a ph and ppm meter and start phing your water and nute mix. You want a nute that has all macro and micro nutes in it. I don't think big bloom is complete that's why they have the trio. Basically you want to flush with the most complete nutes you can at a lower does as not to shock the plants.

You don't need to get a R.O. system. Lets start by first flushing out your soil with a mild nute solution ph'd at 6.6 to get everything settled and then we can start working back with the nutes. First things first we need to take care of the ph and the lock outs and get your girls happy again.

If it's in your budget I'd highly suggest going over to dyna gro. There line up is amazing and I have amazing results and if I ever do get a deficient plant(which has happened like 4 times), which was before I started using dyna gro I just simply used a little higher does of dyna gro grow with some protekt for the first 2 waterings and it fixed my problems.

But like I said lets flush the girls with a mild solution and get all the salt build ups out and start from square one.
 

AltarNation

Well-Known Member
Well before all this advice I flushed the plants heavily with just water, but not ph'd, so I'll do the flush you're describing in a few days I guess... can I get away with just phing water for the flush if I don't have a "complete" fertilizer? My head's fucking spinning... I could probably order something today but it'll take time getting here... let me know what you think would be the best to use for a gentle "complete" fertilizer for the flush...

Alright so, just make sure I'm phing the water and nutrients when they go in... i guess that does make sense...
 

giggles26

Well-Known Member
Yes you can use just plain ph'd water but that will send your girls into shock. Yes make sure that your nutes/water is ph'd each time that you water. If you don't have anything that is complete try flushing with a mild dose of ph'd water with some big bloom. If I remember right fox farm has some of the macro nutes that a plant needs but I think for a complete nutrition you need the trio.

I'd order some from amazon and do next day shipping and it would make it to you by your next watering. In all honesty I'd ph some water to 6.6 and get dyna gro with protekt it and feed them 1tsp per feeding for the first 2 watering's and it will fix your deficient girls.
 

AltarNation

Well-Known Member
Yes you can use just plain ph'd water but that will send your girls into shock. Yes make sure that your nutes/water is ph'd each time that you water. If you don't have anything that is complete try flushing with a mild dose of ph'd water with some big bloom. If I remember right fox farm has some of the macro nutes that a plant needs but I think for a complete nutrition you need the trio.

I'd order some from amazon and do next day shipping and it would make it to you by your next watering. In all honesty I'd ph some water to 6.6 and get dyna gro with protekt it and feed them 1tsp per feeding for the first 2 watering's and it will fix your deficient girls.
Okay, so you're saying, get Dyna-Gro bloom, and protekt?

I'd like to get this done without introducing another nute line, but maybe it's for the best.

I'm definitely gonna get the ph figured out... but wish I could solucify the situation with EJ nutes rather than buy more... still, at this point I just want them healthy...
 

giggles26

Well-Known Member
Lol I guess I just answered to quick. I understand what you mean by not wanting to change your line up. But I just didn't care for earth juice, I'm a firm believer in dyna gro lineup. The only other lineup I care for is root organics player pack. I just like the fact that my dyna gro will correct a deficient plant as long as I have my ph right.
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Here's something that will take out MOST of the "nasties" out of your tap water(not as good as an RO) http://www.amazon.com/3M-Filtrete-Under-Sink-Filtration-3US-PS01/dp/B001DVW0PI/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1355354880&sr=1-1&keywords=filtrete+advanced+under+sink+water+filtration+kit I have it and it filters down to .5 microns for less than 40 bucks/6 months before replacement....no cutting pipes, it just twist the washers onto the cold water line to your faucet, took twenty minutes to install and you can buy the system/replacement filters at LOWES/Wallmart....made by 3M and check the data specs/impressive filtering for the $$ ..............my fucking coffee tastes awesome now too:P

LOL i'm pimping Amazon today...............
 

giggles26

Well-Known Member
Here's something that will take out MOST of the "nasties" out of your tap water(not as good as an RO) http://www.amazon.com/3M-Filtrete-Under-Sink-Filtration-3US-PS01/dp/B001DVW0PI/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1355354880&sr=1-1&keywords=filtrete+advanced+under+sink+water+filtration+kit I have it and it filters down to .5 microns for less than 40 bucks/6 months before replacement....no cutting pipes, it just twist the washers onto the cold water line to your faucet, took twenty minutes to install and you can buy the system/replacement filters at LOWES/Wallmart....made by 3M and check the data specs/impressive filtering for the $$ ..............my fucking coffee tastes awesome now too:P

LOL i'm pimping Amazon today...............
Good thing I hid my Amazon cc lol :D
 

AltarNation

Well-Known Member
Amazon has made SO much money off me since I started this hobby. Thanks for the link Psuagro, if it comes down to the water I will go with that. Good price.
 

Mister Black

Active Member
Hi. Sorry I have not read the whole thread but it looks like you know your stuff with T5's. My question is can you just change the bulb on a T5 from 6500k to 2700k for flowering?

I am thinking of strapping 6 T5's to the outside frame of my 2x2x5 tent. The idea being to supplement my hanging CFL's. Will there be a recognizable heat increase from adding these lights?

I intend to use a T5 with a shade. The clear plastic kind. Just to keep the leaves from touching the lights and burning. How much will this lower my light imprint and will it stop the leaves from burning if they grow into the shade anyway? Will the shade get hot enough to burn the leaves in other words?

+rep for helpful replies. Thanks.
 

AltarNation

Well-Known Member
I think a shield will effectively protect the leaves, but I'm really not sure. I would imagine it will work. Actually, there's some T5 fixtures out there with built in shielding and a fan for an effective "cool tube" effect on the whole fixture. If you get something like that, the shield will DEFINITELY stay cool.

T5 bulbs run at 95 degrees F. There WILL be a temperature increase if you add a significant amount of tubes. 4 tubes won't bump you up too much, but 8 will be noticeable more than likely... I think that it really depends on how strong your ventilation system is, how fast you're exchanging air, and whether or not you're bringing in fresh air from a separate room or expelling out of the room, one or the other.

And yeah, some people just switch to 2700k's for flowering. I know some advocate leaving half the 6500k's so you're in an alternating pattern of both bulbs. Personally, I'd say buy some flora suns, alternate those with the 6500k's... but if you already have the 2700k's that should work.
 

AltarNation

Well-Known Member
When it rains it pours... bumped my timer last night I guess, lights were on for like 24 hours straight. Fuck me. This is ridiculous. I need some smoke so I stop fucking shit up. This is fuckin' lame. I got some refills for my g-pen comin but my friend is taking her sweet time getting it in my hands.
 

giggles26

Well-Known Member
florasuns(5000k) over 2700ks all day. even in CFL i recommend 5000k-5500k over 2700k for flowering.
I use 5000k cfls in my veg setup and my girls love it. I keep them there about 7 days after the flip and then throw them in the tent under my hps.
 

giggles26

Well-Known Member
When it rains it pours... bumped my timer last night I guess, lights were on for like 24 hours straight. Fuck me. This is ridiculous. I need some smoke so I stop fucking shit up. This is fuckin' lame. I got some refills for my g-pen comin but my friend is taking her sweet time getting it in my hands.
I know how that goes bro. Sorry to hear about your troubles. Wish I could give ya some green I've got plenty lol. I've got crops coming Jan, Mid Jan, End January and first of Feb and then middle of Feb lol. The beauty of 3 different rooms.

I know what I'm doing if the world comes to an end on the 21st. Gonna roll a huge fat doobie lol.
 

AltarNation

Well-Known Member
I use 5000k cfls in my veg setup and my girls love it. I keep them there about 7 days after the flip and then throw them in the tent under my hps.
Wait, so you change light cycles in the veg chamber with the cfl's before moving them to the flowering chamber? Any particular reason for this?
 

giggles26

Well-Known Member
Wait, so you change light cycles in the veg chamber with the cfl's before moving them to the flowering chamber? Any particular reason for this?
Yes actually there is a reason behind this. I have 5000k and a few lower end 2700ks in my veg room for a more full spectrum. As poly said he prefers the 5000k, as do I. So I slowly move them over to my hps and it's a gradual change for them instead of jumping from 20/4 light cycle straight into 12/12 I gradually switch them down over a week at a time, then by time they are ready to enter my tent they are at 12/12 and are fully setting bud sites.

I've done a few experiments and have found I see about a 15% increase in weight doing it this way. I did it with the same strains, soil, nutes, same everything but the way I changed the light cycle. I'm not sure if anyone else would agree with the way I do things but it works amazingly well for the last 7 years I've been growing.
 

AltarNation

Well-Known Member
Very interesting... I always thought that doing it gradually would be worse because we're trying to "trigger" the flowering process, which to me implies that the plant wants a noticeable shift... but I must say your method makes more sense in terms of what nature does! I will give it a shot next time round.
 
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