What is everyone's preferred method against PM?

nugbuckets

Well-Known Member
...i am having an issue with some very stubburn PM.....i have tried Neem and oxidate, and it still rears its ugly head a week later.....i want something that does not change the looks of the flower (pistils) at all esp. for photos.....can you guys share your methods with me?....thanks, nugs
 

Odovan

Member
...i am having an issue with some very stubburn PM.....i have tried Neem and oxidate, and it still rears its ugly head a week later.....i want something that does not change the looks of the flower (pistils) at all esp. for photos.....can you guys share your methods with me?....thanks, nugs
[h=1]Serenade Garden Disease control[/h]http://www.walmart.com/ip/Agra-Quest-Inc-SEGFGUS0001-Serenade-32oz-Disease-Control-Conc/22272632?ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=22272632&sourceid=1500000000000003260430
Best stuff i have found yet i spary my garden down once in veg with it and once in flower wont hurt your pics brother man smells like feet tho so its a spray and leave the room kinda stuff it has QST 713 bacillus subtilis eats the powdery mold not photo toxic my frist choice when doing my garden

Second choice for bad power mold is Green cure it will funk up your photo shoots but it stops powdery mold instantly. Hope this helps.
 

Cann

Well-Known Member
Milk! diluted at 10%...reapply every few days. Doesn't burn pistils...but smells milky haha. Everything else I know tends to burn the pistils...

Other than that I would say mix neem cake into your soil for a systemic defense...but at this point it's too late for this plant.

Serenade is also nice but smells like nasty feet - and burns pistils if you mix a bit too strong...

You could try spraying AACT on the leaves in hopes that the fungi and bacteria will outcompete the PM on the leaves...

How far into flower are you?
 

Ccoastal

Active Member
you know me nugs, GreenCure all the way, always works better as preventative than a treatment tho, but spray down the leaves, its 85% baking soda to change the ph on the surface, which is all lemon juice or milk does (without the stink) but the other 15% is a systemic that fights PM in the plat itself, which is why it works better as a preventative cuz it builds up in the system and kills PM as it comes in, spray the fuck out of those leaves bro! get it into the stomata and soak it in!

Ccoastal
 

Ecips

Active Member
^^^^^^
green cure
It works , I had a few small spots
made a baking soda batch, few days later more spots
bought green cure mixed some up ,, been 5 days
50% humidity 70deg
no pm
nuggs, it turns the pm spot brown , it eats the pm or somthing
but I tested it on ph is like 8.0-9.0 real blue
also I hear it cures athlete foot also
thats a fungi lol
but I tryed a few things
ill stick with green cure !!
There still looking great


thumbs
 

Blowin' Smoke

Active Member
I thought PM was systemic and you could only control it, not cure it unless you use like Eagle 20 or something. I asked the guy at the hydro store about it and he wasn't sure and had to call someone else and after about 45 minutes they came to the conclusion it was systemic. He took me in the back and gave me a sample vile of stuff that looks like elmers glue. Unfortunately I can't read what it is because he wrote it in marker and it smeared all I can read is 2 TSP per gallon. I'm sure it's some toxic brew.

I used it and it definately worked, but I was in early stages of veg, in a small cabinet which I sprayed with the store bought fungicide as well. I don't know what to do if you where in full on flower.

On a side note I liked your "The Main-Lining Thread" and plan to try either yours or UB method to control my Tahoe. She's such a stretcher
 

subcool

Well-Known Member
Yeah the pros up here tell me the key is using Green Cure early in veg and really soaking it into the plant. This forms a natural defense systemically and then you Do NOt have to spray it on your flowering plants.
Drench the lower fans several times in veg and very early flower this seems to be a non secret I wish I had known before moving here :)

Sub
 

nugbuckets

Well-Known Member
you know me nugs, GreenCure all the way, always works better as preventative than a treatment tho, but spray down the leaves, its 85% baking soda to change the ph on the surface, which is all lemon juice or milk does (without the stink) but the other 15% is a systemic that fights PM in the plat itself, which is why it works better as a preventative cuz it builds up in the system and kills PM as it comes in, spray the fuck out of those leaves bro! get it into the stomata and soak it in!

Ccoastal
i am going to serenade them tonight....while i wait for my greencure to get here........2 are at three weeks flower, 2 at 4 weeks and 2 at 6, the only ones with visible PM are the 6 weekers....i hesitate with green cure bro, cause everytime i try either baking soda or GC, it fries the pistils pretty hard......maybe i mix it too strong? idk....but it does work the best imho......

....as far as the lemon juice.....is it 1 part lemon, 2 parts h2o, or the opposite?.....i have it on stand by for spot treatment.....

...i really would like to stick to something totally natural like lemon juice....i hesitate to use anything that has "other ingredients".....eating these compounds may be deemed safe as far as OMRI is concerned, but who knows what happens when the shit is cumbusted......
 

nugbuckets

Well-Known Member
Yeah the pros up here tell me the key is using Green Cure early in veg and really soaking it into the plant. This forms a natural defense systemically and then you Do NOt have to spray it on your flowering plants.
Drench the lower fans several times in veg and very early flower this seems to be a non secret I wish I had known before moving here :)

Sub
thanks Sub and CC.....that is exactly what i am looking for.....not having to spray anything on my flowers.......ordering some now.....nugs
 

Endur0xX

Well-Known Member
I used lemon juice near flowers with GREAT success ... (I was trying not to spray on the flowers but whatever made it was no big deal I guess, especially on Agent Orange, whats a little lemon taste in the mix :eyesmoke:)

My Agent Orange were just starting to flower at the time, I added more ventilation (I think I just brought the PM from outside, not sure it had anything to do with my ventilation) but anyway I kept looking for many days, I reapplied 3 days later and there was NO SIGN of PM the rest of the grow, I was stoked because it`s some of the best stuff I got to smoke now.

Hyroot first told me about it and I think I had the quantities in my journal somewhere but all I remember is that it was very little, like 1/8 of a teaspoon for 500ml or something like that. I ll try to find the exact numbers.
 

Endur0xX

Well-Known Member
Old hippy Humboldt trick. Lemon solution spray. 1/4 tsp of lemon juice in a quart of water. I use tap water. It works instantly. Just shake plant afterwards and maybe put a fan on it for 10 min to help dry.


I've tried baking soda solution too. It worked a little, but stained the leaves. I read that it also breaks down cellulose tissue.

Neem works but suffocates the plant causing stress and possible herme.

You are organic so why use a chem to do it?
there you have it I strongly recommend it as it leaves no risidue and 100% natural.
 

j5isalive

Member
My neighbor grows outdoor roses and other PM loving plants, so I've had some pretty good PM battles over the last few years (fogcity). The usual methods neem/gc/serenade/milk/citrus juice are really just a band-aid if you already have PM spores floating around. You can kill airborne PM spores with extended periods of high temps (90-95f+) tho.

I saved a grow (~30 days flowering) by removing every single PM infected leaf, sponged serenade on the stems/stalks, added intake filters, and pumped up the heat and co2 (helps plants manage higher temps) for several light cycles. This will push your plants pretty hard, but its manageable if you keep a close eye on everything. At the time I started using a space heater at night to keep the temp swing in check.

At the end of 2011 I switched to a a dual tent setup on a flip box with shared circulation between both spaces, so my light/dark temps are exactly the same. Since doing this I have not had a single PM outbreak. The temp swings/perspiration and the airborne spores seem to be what was bending me over.

I've never been ballsy enough to run a sulphur burner, why bother if your stash just taste like fart. Works for grape and strawberry farmers tho.

Decent reads regarding PM from our friends at UC davis:
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r302100311.html
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/DISEASE/DATABASE/grapepowderymildew.html
http://www.apsnet.org/publications/apsnetfeatures/Pages/UCDavisRisk.aspx

Good luck!

Edit: I should mention also, just as PM is systemic.. So are many of the cures! Neem/Serenade/GC can be soil drenched to a certain effect (probably only helps new growth). This added to what Mr Sub stated about really soaking the plants.
 

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
OK, after doing a little running around, this is all I could come up with.... It is from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Powdery_mildew#Disease_cycle , and mostly it pertains to outdoor conditions, however, having a little more understanding might help us combat this issue more effectively.

Triticum sp. (wheat) is the only host of Blumeria graminis f. sp. tritici.[SUP][2][/SUP] Signs on the foliage of wheat are white, powdery mycelium and conidia.[SUP][4][/SUP] As the disease progresses, the patches turn gray and small dark black or brown cleistothecia form in the mycelium mass.[SUP][5][/SUP] Symptoms progress from lower to upper leaves. Symptoms of powdery mildew are chlorotic areas surrounding the infected areas.[SUP][4][/SUP] The lower leaf surface corresponding to the mycelial mat will also show chlorosis.[SUP][5][/SUP] Lower leaves are commonly the most infected because of higher humidity around them.[SUP][2][/SUP]
[h=4][edit] Disease cycle[/h]Blumeria graminis f. sp. tritici has a polycyclic life cycle typical of its phylum, Ascomycota. Powdery mildew of wheat overwinters as cleistothecia dormant in plant debris. Under warmer conditions, however, the fungus can overwinter as asexual conidia or mycelium on living host plants. It can persist between seasons most likely as ascospores in wheat debris left in the field. Ascospores are sexual spores produced from the cleistothecia. These spores, as well as conidia, serve as the primary inoculum and are dispersed by wind. Neither spore requires free water to germinate, only high relative humidity.[SUP][5][/SUP] Wheat powdery mildew thrives in cool humid conditions and cloudy weather increases chances of disease. When conidia land on a wheat leaf’s hydrophobic surface cuticle, they release proteins which facilitate active transport of lightweight anions between leaf and fungus even before germination. This process helps Blumeria recognize that it is on the correct host and directs growth of the germ tube.[SUP][6][/SUP] Both ascospores and conidia germinate directly with a germ tube. Conidia can recognize the host plant and within one minute of initial contact, the direction of germ tube growth is determined. The development of appressoria then begins infection following the growth of a germ tube.[SUP][7][/SUP] After initial infection, the fungus produces haustoria inside of the wheat cells and mycelium grows on the plant’s outer surface.[SUP][5][/SUP] Powdery mildew of wheat produces conidia during the growing season as often as every 7 to 10 days.[SUP][8][/SUP] These conidia function as secondary inoculum as growth and reproduction repeat throughout the growing season.
[h=4][edit] Environment[/h]Powdery mildew of wheat thrives in cool, humid climates and proliferates in cloudy weather conditions.[SUP][1][/SUP] The pathogen can also be an issue in drier climates if wheat fields are irrigated.[SUP][9][/SUP] Ideal temperatures for growth and reproduction of the pathogen are between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit with growth ceasing above 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Dense, genetically similar plantings provide opportune conditions for growth of powdery mildew.[SUP][5][/SUP]
[h=4][edit] Management[/h]Controlling the disease involves eliminating conducive conditions as much as possible by altering planting density and carefully timing applications and rates of nitrogen. Since nitrogen fertilizers encourage dense leafy growth, nitrogen should be applied at precise rates, less than 70 pounds per acre, to control decrease severity. Crop rotation with non-host plants is another way to keep mildew infection to a minimum, however the aerial nature of conidia and ascospore dispersal makes it of limited use. Wheat powdery mildew can also be controlled by eliminating the presence of volunteer wheat in agricultural fields as well as tilling under crop residues.[SUP][8][/SUP]
Chemical control is possible with fungicides such as triademefon and propiconazole. Another chemical treatment involves treating wheat with a silicon solution or calcium silicate slag. Silicon helps the plant cells defend against fungal attack by degrading haustoria and by producing callose and papilla. With silicon treatment, epidermal cells are less susceptible to powdery mildew of wheat.[SUP][10][/SUP]
The most effective way to control wheat powdery mildew is through genetic resistance, using R genes (resistance genes) to prevent infection. There are at least 25 loci on the wheat genome that encode resistance to powdery mildew. If the particular variety of wheat has only one loci for resistance, the pathogen may be controlled only for a couple years. If, however, the variety of wheat has multiple loci for resistance, the crop may be protected for around 15 years. Because finding these loci can be difficult and time consuming, molecular markers are used to facilitate combining resistant genomes.[SUP][1][/SUP] One organization working towards identifying these molecular markers is the Coordinated Agricultural Project for Wheat. With these markers established, researchers will then be able to determine the most effective combination of resistance genes.[SUP][11][/SUP]
 

Endur0xX

Well-Known Member
2 parts water 1 part lemon juice
it worked using very little for me ... I think the goal is simply to change the ph on the surface of the leaves so that it is impossible for PM to grow, so doing a thorough wash to make sure its all rinsed off and adding ventilation should really do the trick.

I should add for everyone that might be fighting it that if you dont exchange air constantly during light off you are wasting your time. personally I use the air from upstairs in the house so my inline fans run 24-7
 

cheapCO2

Member
It seems that there are a lot of Pro's here, so I am hoping to have my question answered by someone that actually knows what they are talking abut....................yes you guys.

I am very new at this. This this is the 1st time I ran in to the Powdery Mildew Problem. 1 of 3 clones had Powdery Mildew. I did not notice it until it started to spread. Since I knew nothing about Powdery Mildew, I thought it was just dust. Well to make the long story short, all plants seem to be infected and I am doing everything possible to safe the plants.

As of yet, the buds don't seem to have any impact. Only leaves. And even-though the plants have not been effected and growing and flowering just a healthy plant would, I am afraid my buds may not be safe to smoke, as I was told that Mildew could cause lung infection. I saw a video of a guy dipping cut down plants in to peroxide water mix. Does anyone know if I do the same process that buds would be OK to smoke. Or should I just bit the bullet now and kill the plants. I am about 30 days or less from harvesting, but my concern is safety.

Thanks in advance for the help.


Here is the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7jE7qzfgQs&ytsession=S_3VQSLNzaZAvBT_rba3oiuFkpD4pK39HCimDuK05JZnfKnqNckFnMueBpjxMzugbYV_xpprQFEYdYPYbTjjrxAPvc7MMFEXp8QbocCoaGM92Khon7sfZucm9U6uaQNUt9fuiA5C8jwlCw2EmMVCwSBy_FE8ZQ8Mf-C4WjvFBDXnH1LIOw-Wd-CXQ8xQY3WO--xRw-SV2km5CN1cmPam033vndNMQ2CF_xtDb_7Pi2bGHV_8ghjieoQyOZaNqtVT5Xu06MPP-mXKY9L0909vHY_Sb4KvmbnyfZtqPehmwtmhntHIJ-ga7sUDBL8ZsKMfV9TZ-Wi379UGKG_uZGdi02rNIRMIxYYZcn9Q0SDI0XAKmsxgqXGMAsaOPxD1TD4rdIzXM73kGp8841UxLoSBmY8ZRt_wHtjAXyMyj8PQnVKg7BRJuUtqij2Dd1Sjmnyryhuamb_mMJNf_33To-8ZGXWUJrAJMWs6XnUg2Psabuuv8U4sYPytr4LldwRg4LhMkpeh2b7R0f4Xb6A60IiJdJQMtLkh4sh-UVTJG2CgdKlmlaS-Qu5ZQGg8PVAQMDoLUAY7KQ6UUyBtD4-2b53O2ulojg2im4jefswgAA1DScGr8kIZmA9sAqEmFVoNouIi1JAQSrnuY0LmpA2BpO3P8ps5i8tHfwtrkhCJDXhrlae71v3gcqHboZSIbBtW9YG
 
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