Thanks for that. Glad you got all the way through the thread. It's a big ask, but I bet you got several questions answered before you had to ask them.
496CFM is a hell of a lot for a 6" blower! Is that figure right? I have a few Allvent A60, 150mm blowers in service; the maker rates the A60 at 192CFM.
Ah, ok- it's a centrif! Didn't know that til here! No wonder it can shift >400CFM.
You can use passive intake, but there has to be a dedicated intake opening- relying on leaks for inbound air isn't wise. Intakes should be near the floor in the room. Passive intakes should be about twice the size of the exhaust ducting.
Some aircon units have a ventilate/recirculate setting. On 'ventilate' a small amount of air is brought in from outdoors. However, it's hard to tell exactly how much air will move through that small duct in the a/c unit. You're better off periodically running your exhaust blower with a timer.
Did I? I might have thought it would take about 3 wks under an HPS or MH to get a clone up to a size suiting taking cuttings, would be a cpl wks longer (at least) under flos.
No, it's not the spectrum, it's the luminous intensity that drives plant growth. Spectrum will favour certain growth characters, but you can veg with HPS or flower with MH if it suits you. I use the HPS in veg, not because it develops thick stems but because it tends to cause some elongation in mums, giving me long stems for cuttings.
8000 lumens isn't terribly bright. I think I've seen some fluoros at 6000. If you're prepared to put 200W worth of power at it, could you go a 175MH (~15,000 lumens) or a 250 HPS (28,000 lumens)? Better to go with a single bright light than a pair of comparatively dimmer ones.
You're getting pretty much the same as I am. I pull about 23oz every 2 weeks off 23 SoG style plants. However, if you're flowering only with a single 600, you are kicking my ass from here to Mars and back! I run a pair of 1000s, as you know. If I were you, I don't think I'd be bitching too loud.
Mums are a piece of piss to keep. No sweat.
Nah, the 600HPS is a very fine light. Use 'em. I could easily see my op with a 600 over each tray. Without cooltubes, a 600 can be spaced closer to leaves than a 1000. A 600 usually does about 95,000 lumens, a 1000 does 160,000, but since a 600 can be dropped down lower, the actual lumens per sq metre (lux) applied can be the same or higher than a 1000.
Sure, you could use coir, could use pellets, etc. Whatever you can stuff in a pot. I'm not a fan of coir and have seen it break up when exposed to H2O2, but a knee-hi stocking over the bottom of each pot should contain any loose frags that might foul a water pump. However, it will work for you.
Never- and it's not because I'm real smart or real lucky. It's because I'm very security minded and I always plan ahead. I calculate risks and evaluate security at every turn. It's a lot of mental runtime that I'd rather not do, but it's part of the gig.
8000 lumens isn't terribly bright. I think I've seen some fluoros at 6000. If you're prepared to put 200W worth of power at it, could you go a 175MH (~15,000 lumens) or a 250 HPS (28,000 lumens)? Better to go with a single bright light than a pair of comparatively dimmer ones.
You're getting pretty much the same as I am. I pull about 23oz every 2 weeks off 23 SoG style plants. However, if you're flowering only with a single 600, you are kicking my ass from here to Mars and back! I run a pair of 1000s, as you know. If I were you, I don't think I'd be bitching too loud.
Mums are a piece of piss to keep. No sweat.
You might rethink your layout. You won't need near as much space nor light for vegging if you switch to SoG. A 400 will support 8-10 mums, might be able to do it with a 250HPS. About 5% of your floorspace can go to vegging mums, the rest to flowering.
Nah, the 600HPS is a very fine light. Use 'em. I could easily see my op with a 600 over each tray. Without cooltubes, a 600 can be spaced closer to leaves than a 1000. A 600 usually does about 95,000 lumens, a 1000 does 160,000, but since a 600 can be dropped down lower, the actual lumens per sq metre (lux) applied can be the same or higher than a 1000.
However, when fitted in cooltubes, the 1000 can be spaced the same as a 600- and beats its pants off in the process in terms of laying down lux on the leaves.
The downside to using 600s is that they are marginally less efficient in lumens per watt than 1000s and you have to have twice the number of ballasts and reflectors. It'd work fine, let 'er rip.
Sure, you could use coir, could use pellets, etc. Whatever you can stuff in a pot. I'm not a fan of coir and have seen it break up when exposed to H2O2, but a knee-hi stocking over the bottom of each pot should contain any loose frags that might foul a water pump. However, it will work for you.
Never- and it's not because I'm real smart or real lucky. It's because I'm very security minded and I always plan ahead. I calculate risks and evaluate security at every turn. It's a lot of mental runtime that I'd rather not do, but it's part of the gig.
yeah- be a one man band. Partners are trouble, every single time.
hmm... 90% of it was remediation, fixing broken stuff. Since post #1... new 600CFM exhaust blower, corrected misuse of PK-13-14, cooltubes now hold temps @ 25C +/- 1C and allow closer lamp-leaf spacing, sulfur 'burner' halted powdery mildew, replaced faulty pH pen electrode.
You can stop worrying about pots of pellets floating- they won't. Won't matter if they are in normal pots with drain holes or netpots.
READ page 1.
You simply need to establish some mother plants (in your case a LOT of them) and start taking cuttings every 2 weeks.
Flowering plants get Canna Flores, 1400ppm @ 5.8. Mums get Canna Vega, 1500-1800, also at 5.8.
While I'm not actually prepared to describe my income circumstance, the op does pay its own way- and I have little time to do much else.