Samwell Seed Well
Well-Known Member
lol use it in hydro and send us a pic
just be ready to clean
oh man, to high to read righ tnow
just be ready to clean
oh man, to high to read righ tnow
Is hydro that much Better than soil? Wanting the big yield in small numbers
- Thread starter BCGROWFORU
- Start date
str8sativa
Well-Known Member
im not tryin to knock hydro as it definitly has its benefits just not for my personal home grow
Spittn4cash
Well-Known Member
The "difference on how the roots absorb nutrients" could be in your ability to control your pH levels for an entire week..or at least until your next res change. I could never just change the res, then walk away for an entire week.Samwell Seed Well said:
I do the same thing as you - change the res, mix the 7 different nutes, check pH and ppm, but I also check the reservoir temp, room temp, and room humidity. It's winter here, so the temps go from low to high overnight - which also affects my res temps, room temp, and room humidity. And like I said before, since I have an active hydro system, I make sure my pump works, there are no water leaks, and make sure my feeding tubes are not clogged.
It's not an all day job, its just a part time job.
You have a completely different system, where you don't have to do anything for a week. Kudos. It's not "working smart" its just a different system. If you had the same system that I have, then you would understand the work that I do. Even when I'm "dialed in" I'll still have to do the same amount of work with my system. It's not OCD, it's called "putting in work".
Samwell Seed Well
Well-Known Member
right and if your dialed in PH stabile nutrients dont sway, for a week, at least for me
once set
i only did 5 harvest under hydro . . . . it can be done, Ph swings after our solutions set/stabilized were almost alwasy do to using to much of of one micro macro and creating an imbalance in the rez that results in PH swing, once you get dialed in you will be able to leave it, although hard to not worry about it
took me 2 harvest to figure out how to make this happen
you can do it too, working hard or not, i like to do this
che lated nutrients as base, i used cannassyme not hydrosyme, and thats it in the rez if mixed at proper proportions it will not sway
and made foilage sprays to feed other stuff like, sea green, nitro syme and true blooms/rootamentary,
easy way to keep unstable organic elements out of the rez
also eckolonia kelp is hydro safe and will help, as long as its present keep your rez from swaying
rez sway once set up(stable), is from nutrients being used, try adding small amounts of nutrients at very low dilution rates that have been previously set in the solution to re administer some of what the plants have used up between rez cleanings/changes, and .5 to .7 sway is ok, thats the range at which you PH moves in order to adsorb different macro micros more efficiently,
plugs with temp turn ons and offs, or timers and even a chiller for the rez all things you need to dial in your hydro, as well as pumps and water line sin and out and drains, but once its all set up its plug and play, just turn it on
once set
i only did 5 harvest under hydro . . . . it can be done, Ph swings after our solutions set/stabilized were almost alwasy do to using to much of of one micro macro and creating an imbalance in the rez that results in PH swing, once you get dialed in you will be able to leave it, although hard to not worry about it
took me 2 harvest to figure out how to make this happen
you can do it too, working hard or not, i like to do this
che lated nutrients as base, i used cannassyme not hydrosyme, and thats it in the rez if mixed at proper proportions it will not sway
and made foilage sprays to feed other stuff like, sea green, nitro syme and true blooms/rootamentary,
easy way to keep unstable organic elements out of the rez
also eckolonia kelp is hydro safe and will help, as long as its present keep your rez from swaying
rez sway once set up(stable), is from nutrients being used, try adding small amounts of nutrients at very low dilution rates that have been previously set in the solution to re administer some of what the plants have used up between rez cleanings/changes, and .5 to .7 sway is ok, thats the range at which you PH moves in order to adsorb different macro micros more efficiently,
plugs with temp turn ons and offs, or timers and even a chiller for the rez all things you need to dial in your hydro, as well as pumps and water line sin and out and drains, but once its all set up its plug and play, just turn it on
doniawon
Well-Known Member
Spittn4cash
Well-Known Member
Again, you have a PASSIVE system, so it's easy for you to mix & set. But in an ACTIVE system things can go wrong quickly.Samwell Seed Well said:
We're using two totally different systems, and just because I don't agree with you doesn't mean I'm being stubborn. I'm not sure how much clearer I can make that for you.
What "issues" are you talking about? Making sure my grow room is functioning properly? I'm 100% certain that pro''s do the same work I do. There are people who do this as a full time job, this is my hobby.
Regarding "KISS". It's not simple, but I am not over complicating it by any means..I'm just doing the regular maintenance that needs to be done.
And you have yet to explain how soil is more time consuming than any hydro task.
Samwell Seed Well
Well-Known Member
can you be more specific, active passive?
how is DWC or ebb in flow not representive or active(DWC) and passive (ebb and flow)
soil requires transferring, daily or every other day watering, it requires , training and longer veg times,
hydro beg times 1-3 weeks
soil or soiless inert 3-8 weeks
im not sure how the time consumption of a harvest and the next harvest to come is not obvious,
i have a turn around 3-8 weeks if i want to stay low in numbers, if im not already taking care of vegging plants
in hydro the turn around to flower can be as long as as week to 3 weeks, amount of time needed to get a soil crop to harvest is much more, and to me that means more time working
then theirs transferring and potting and all the soil you have to lug around and dispose of and etc etc,
how is DWC or ebb in flow not representive or active(DWC) and passive (ebb and flow)
soil requires transferring, daily or every other day watering, it requires , training and longer veg times,
hydro beg times 1-3 weeks
soil or soiless inert 3-8 weeks
im not sure how the time consumption of a harvest and the next harvest to come is not obvious,
i have a turn around 3-8 weeks if i want to stay low in numbers, if im not already taking care of vegging plants
in hydro the turn around to flower can be as long as as week to 3 weeks, amount of time needed to get a soil crop to harvest is much more, and to me that means more time working
then theirs transferring and potting and all the soil you have to lug around and dispose of and etc etc,
HolyCola
Member
Spittn4cash
Well-Known Member
Sure,Samwell Seed Well said:
An active system has moving parts - ie. timers, water pumps, air bubblers, float switches and some have feeding tubes, drip feeders and recirculating nutrients.
A passive hydro system does not have any moving parts - ie. hand fed hempy buckets containing perlite, coco, hydroton, or rockwool.
DWC and Ebb & flow both have moving parts, so they are both active systems.
Since you said you were growing in coco, I assumed you were growing in a passive system, no?
If not, then you should understand the maintenance that comes with an active system - you can't just walk away from it and expect it to take care of itself.
Samwell Seed Well
Well-Known Member
then all my system were active
im am currently a coco grower with active system too, all automated
except watering and daily plant work, defoliate, top, train stake, move, etc
and i was growing hydro 7+years ago . . . .thats where any info i have on it comes from, we stopped after i spilled 50 gallons into my house attic
"An active system has moving parts - ie. timers, water pumps, air bubblers, float switches and some have feeding tubes, drip feeders and recirculating nutrients."
to me this all means automated, and that measn i dont worry about what i set up, and i dont need to babysit a timer
im am currently a coco grower with active system too, all automated
except watering and daily plant work, defoliate, top, train stake, move, etc
and i was growing hydro 7+years ago . . . .thats where any info i have on it comes from, we stopped after i spilled 50 gallons into my house attic
"An active system has moving parts - ie. timers, water pumps, air bubblers, float switches and some have feeding tubes, drip feeders and recirculating nutrients."
to me this all means automated, and that measn i dont worry about what i set up, and i dont need to babysit a timer
doniawon
Well-Known Member
Was that with n ebb n gro 55gallon?
Ive flooded an attic or two
Samwell Seed Well
Well-Known Member
i have pumps that remove water so i only have to personal bail out a little but the clamps came off and the hose ran all 55 gallon into my attic . .oh man that sucked
grow was in attic at that time
i used a ebb and flow is a table with plants in hydroton or net pots or even coco bags, that flood and then drain into a rez, on a timer very easy very simple, healthier theplants more you can feed so its simple to adjsut to fit a plant that east more as it grows
grow was in attic at that time
i used a ebb and flow is a table with plants in hydroton or net pots or even coco bags, that flood and then drain into a rez, on a timer very easy very simple, healthier theplants more you can feed so its simple to adjsut to fit a plant that east more as it grows
doniawon
Well-Known Member
Bummer... I had troubles with the ebb n groz' grommets. Luckily im a painter also.
Spittn4cash
Well-Known Member
See, you just made my point - in an active system, when things go bad....they go REALLY bad. You had a bad spill (which I'm sorry to hear), and I had a pythium infection in my reservoir. You have to pay "extra attention" to your system in an active hydro system.
These situations are hydro related..you don't see them very often in soil. Okay, in soil you gotta transplant a couple times, and water every 2 or 3 days. So what?...that's next to impossible to screw up.
But anyways, I concur. You've made a lot of great points and gave me a lot to think about. I'm gonna reflect on some things and try to get this hydro situation straightened out.
Thanks for the dialog.
-Cash
These situations are hydro related..you don't see them very often in soil. Okay, in soil you gotta transplant a couple times, and water every 2 or 3 days. So what?...that's next to impossible to screw up.
But anyways, I concur. You've made a lot of great points and gave me a lot to think about. I'm gonna reflect on some things and try to get this hydro situation straightened out.
Thanks for the dialog.
-Cash
doniawon
Well-Known Member
System depending.
Ebb n gro had a fuck ton of grommets and rezes attached with hose n clamps arent necessary.
A flood tray on a sturdy rez will never leak.
Vitually matenance free. If your pump or timer fails the plants droop, once u fix and rewet they bounce back in no time.
Even easierr than mixn nuts in a bucket and hand feeding.
Ive left my room for 3 plus days with no issues.
In soil if I skipped a day some plants were fucked. The y all wanted wster at different times.
Samwell Seed Well
Well-Known Member
i dont see how i made your point, if you know what you are doing then you wont have issues, daily maintenance is a min in hydro if set up right
as you never move the plants you never repot and so on, and cycles turn faster . .no need to have a new run already going which means taking care of two rooms and two cycles of plants and so on
and you prove my point, soil is easier all it takes is more of your own shadow, and time
Spittn4cash
Well-Known Member
"System depending"....there goes those magic words again....and the cost of one of those ebb & gro systems do not outweigh the benefits.doniawon said:
Shit happens.
- A flood tray shouldn't leak..but it can overflow if the overflow drain or tube gets clogged.
- All it takes is a pump, switch or timer to fail, and you'll have a mess on your hands.
- Just because hydro is automatic doesn't mean that it's any easier or "worry-free" - you can still have multiple things go wrong...and there is a lot more that can go wrong in hydro than in soil.
- Missing a feeding in soil OR hydro can be devastating. But mixing nutes in a bucket and hand-feeding is idiot-proof. It doesn't get much easier than that.
If hydro was so easy, then you would see n00b's jumping right in and doing well..but the fact that so many people start off in soil proves that soil is the absolute easiest way to grow.
So to answer the question of the thread - is hydro better than soil?
Outdoors - NO!
Indoors - That depends on which hydro system you grow with.
Spittn4cash
Well-Known Member
Because I originally said that I don't believe that hydro is better because "you have to pay more attention, more things can go wrong, and hydro setups are much more expensive than soil."...and you just proved that "things can go really bad in an active hydro system" so you have to pay attention and monitor your grow more carefully in a hydro setup.
It's not all about "knowing what you're doing" & "having it setup right"..it's about having the right system, and in an active system everything is automatic..but "shit happens" sometimes.
I don't understand how you fail to see that there are so many more factors in a hydro grow that you don't have to deal with in soil.
It takes more time to measure pH, ppm, res temps, room temp, room humidity, perform daily maintenance and cleaning in a hydro system - than it does to measure room temp, room humidity and hand-feed soil plants.