Club 600

SpectatorFernFirm

SpectatorFernFirm

Active Member
@Don, btw I FINALLY figured out what you meant the other day by "check your rep" lol. Oops haha! Still wanted to say thnx again. I'm super excited bout all this!!! Very sexy ladies, nuggies have puuurty coluuuurs...
 
SpectatorFernFirm

SpectatorFernFirm

Active Member
I like that. Won't let me like it tho so I'm just gunna come out and say it. I really enjoyed that Ty :)

EDIT: I watched Nature by Numbers, a few times now :). That was awesome. Just the way things "add" up blows my mind! Great stuff man thanks for sharing!
 
shnkrmn

shnkrmn

Well-Known Member
hornedfrog2000 said:
The bulb itself doesn't turn blue, but the lighting looks blue instead of yellow. I just hope I'm not burning out good bulbs in a bad ballast. It's a lumatek ballast, but these bulbs are about 1 year old now I think. They will look dim like right when they first fire up, and blue just like that too, and then they blow. Worst timing for this stuff.... Just had one blow like 2 weeks ago, hope its just coincidence. I know lumatek had issues or whatever, but this is the most irregular bulb burnings I've had going on.
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pasted from the HPS article in Wikipedia:

[h=3]Theory of operation[/h]

Diagram of a high pressure sodium lamp.​

An amalgam of metallic sodium and mercury lies at the coolest part of the lamp and provides the sodium and mercury vapor that is needed to draw an arc. The temperature of the amalgam is determined to a great extent by lamp power. The higher the lamp power, the higher will be the amalgam temperature. The higher the temperature of the amalgam, the higher will be the mercury and sodium vapor pressures in the lamp and the higher will be the terminal voltage. As the temperature rises, the constant current and increasing voltage result in increased power until the nominal power is reached. For a given voltage, there are generally three modes of operation:

  1. The lamp is extinguished and no current flows.
  2. The lamp is operating with liquid amalgam in the tube.
  3. The lamp is operating with all amalgam evaporated.
The first and last states are stable, because the lamp resistance is weakly related to the voltage, but the second state is unstable. Any anomalous increase in current will cause an increase in power, causing an increase in amalgam temperature, which will cause a decrease in resistance, which will cause a further increase in current. This will create a runaway effect, and the lamp will jump to the high-current state (#3). Because actual lamps are not designed to handle this much power, this would result in catastrophic failure. Similarly, an anomalous drop in current will drive the lamp to extinction. It is the second state that is the desired operating state of the lamp, because a slow loss of the amalgam over time from a reservoir will have less effect on the characteristics of the lamp than a fully evaporated amalgam. The result is an average lamp life in excess of 20,000 hours.
In practical use, the lamp is powered by an AC voltage source in series with an inductive "ballast" in order to supply a nearly constant current to the lamp, rather than a constant voltage, thus assuring stable operation. The ballast is usually inductive rather than simply being resistive to minimize resistive losses. Because the lamp effectively extinguishes at each zero-current point in the AC cycle, the inductive ballast assists in the reignition by providing a voltage spike at the zero-current point.
The light from the lamp consists of atomic emission lines of mercury and sodium, but is dominated by the sodium D-line emission. This line is extremely pressure (resonance) broadened and is also self-reversed because of absorption in the cooler outer layers of the arc, giving the lamp its improved color rendering characteristics. In addition, the red wing of the D-line emission is further pressure broadened by the Van der Waals forces from the mercury atoms in the arc.
[h=2][edit]End of life[/h]At the end of life, high-pressure sodium lamps exhibit a phenomenon known as cycling, which is caused by a loss of sodium in the arc. Sodium is a highly reactive element and is easily lost by reacting with the arc tube, made of aluminum oxide. The products are sodium oxide and aluminum:
6 Na + Al[SUB]2[/SUB]O[SUB]3[/SUB] → 3 Na[SUB]2[/SUB]O + 2 AlAs a result, these lamps can be started at a relatively low voltage, but, as they heat up during operation, the internal gas pressure within the arc tube rises, and more and more voltage is required to maintain the arc discharge. As a lamp gets older, the maintaining voltage for the arc eventually rises to exceed the maximum voltage output by the electrical ballast. As the lamp heats to this point, the arc fails, and the lamp goes out. Eventually, with the arc extinguished, the lamp cools down again, the gas pressure in the arc tube is reduced, and the ballast can once again cause the arc to strike. The effect of this is that the lamp glows for a while and then goes out, typically starting at a pure or bluish white then moving to a red-orange before going out.
More sophisticated ballast designs detect cycling and give up attempting to start the lamp after a few cycles, as the repeated high-voltage ignitions needed to restart the arc reduce the lifetime of the ballast. If power is removed and reapplied, the ballast will make a new series of startup attempts.
LPS lamp failure does not result in cycling; rather, the lamp will simply not strike or will maintain its dull red glow exhibited during the start-up phase.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium-vapor_lamp#High-pressure_sodium
 
shnkrmn

shnkrmn

Well-Known Member
The most common cause of early lamp failure is not properly seating the bulb in the socket, resulting in arcing within the socket. Any discoloration there? Then you might not be screwing your bulbs in tight enough. I have only had one bulb go bad ever, and that was a digilux 1k.
 
bassman999

bassman999

Well-Known Member
smellzlikeskunkyum said:
So hey 209... remember me mentioning about the NL and the White Rhino that keep yellowing no matter how much N i give them? i cant find the f'n posts where u asked me for pics but here is a few of the NL. its a nice pheno. and yeah i know the plant/pot are small as hell. i really dont think the plant is root bound tho. it was a real small clone when it was flowered.

View attachment 2534331 View attachment 2534332View attachment 2534333View attachment 2534334
ive hit it as heavy as im gonna get with the buddha grow i think, trying to give it that N. im afraid to give it too much and burn it. i did read about how roots organics nutes always seem to drop PH, im starting to think that may be my problem. my broke ass aint got a ph pen or nothing.
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I have several new strains that I flipped to 12/12 y-day
One is Dr Atomic's N.L.

Wondering what NL do you have?
 
bassman999

bassman999

Well-Known Member
wormdrive66 said:
I paid $12 each and they threw in 1 for free. Not the best price but bug free and very clean and healthy. I picked these up at Harborside in Oakland. I am done trying to get them near me, people are so flakey around here. You could make a killing selling clones if you had your shit tight around here.
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I cant seem to move any lol...go figure :???:

I havent tried CL or BudTrader and prolly wont...
 
bassman999

bassman999

Well-Known Member
method2mymadness said:
Fuckin stuck on this true thin mint buds great high....and some dream shots just starting to plump up and a fuck u shot was bored waiting for resivor to fill up
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So we are talking the Thin Mint for like Florida, or the Thin Mint GSC from the Bay?

I have never had either so I am still clueless on them
 
method2mymadness

method2mymadness

Well-Known Member
bassman999 said:
I cant seem to move any lol...go figure :???:

I havent tried CL or BudTrader and prolly wont...
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Budtrader is full of flakes but there are those few solid people that want what they want and no bullshit .then there's the window shoppers that just want to c pics even tho there are pics on the add.

Craigslist u got to redo ur add 2-3 times a day due to flaggers . I've actually met more reliable and solid people on craigslist and multiple return customers.
Once u get a few donations to patients and word of mouth and ur phone number gets passed around cause u have good genetics and a solid clean clone u wnt be able to keep them in stock.
And be able to service hydro and soil needs ..a lot of people want them in cube for hydro most want them established in soil
 
bassman999

bassman999

Well-Known Member
method2mymadness said:
Budtrader is full of flakes but there are those few solid people that want what they want and no bullshit .then there's the window shoppers that just want to c pics even tho there are pics on the add.

Craigslist u got to redo ur add 2-3 times a day due to flaggers . I've actually met more reliable and solid people on craigslist and multiple return customers.
Once u get a few donations to patients and word of mouth and ur phone number gets passed around cause u have good genetics and a solid clean clone u wnt be able to keep them in stock.
And be able to service hydro and soil needs ..a lot of people want them in cube for hydro most want them established in soil
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Been worried about putting it out there..not so much gettn jacked or anything, but other ppl responding to them.
 
method2mymadness

method2mymadness

Well-Known Member
bassman999 said:
Been worried about putting it out there..not so much gettn jacked or anything, but other ppl responding to them.
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Rippers are into flowers there to fuckin lazy to rip clones and grow them they just jack growers with flower I dnt post my flowers budtrader or cl unless its an ounce or two

And I dnt worry about it I get a pic of there scrip and I'd then pre verify them then check there I'd and script in person before I show or talk about the item being sold / donated just dnt sell them 50 clones when there script is for 12 stay completely legit and I wouldn't worry about it.
 
budolskie

budolskie

Well-Known Member
So I just noticed how to giv rep before haha wilma ordered 65 free postage, just need 2 timers and clay pebbles and ionic hydro grow and bloom and already have ionic soil grow bloom and boost doesnt say soil or hydro on it so I'm assuming I can use it on both
 
bassman999

bassman999

Well-Known Member
budolskie said:
So I just noticed how to giv rep before haha wilma ordered 65 free postage, just need 2 timers and clay pebbles and ionic hydro grow and bloom and already have ionic soil grow bloom and boost doesnt say soil or hydro on it so I'm assuming I can use it on both
Click to expand...
I used Ionic b4 with Sunshine soil-less and they loved it
 
wormdrive66

wormdrive66

Well-Known Member
bassman999 said:
Been worried about putting it out there..not so much gettn jacked or anything, but other ppl responding to them.
Click to expand...
I did a ton of business on BT when it first started. I still look and get clones occasionally but thats it. Never been jacked or burned but I always make people jump through a few hoops before meeting. Rippers don't like to be delayed or questioned. If it feels sketchy? IT IS!!!! RUN!!! I would stick to the bay area clubs if you want to move some babies. Plenty of demand for good stuff. I am always good for 20 every 3 months ;-) we just need to get in sync.
 
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