Had to switch Nutes, is this nute burn?

GK1

Active Member
I was adding ph up straight to the water in the beginning... people told me that was wrong so I started diluting it... this was all after draining my res so I was starting fresh. I still had the ph probs with that which is when I switched to veg+bloom...

http://www.hydroponic-research.com/products.html

the calcium is at 18%, that should be plenty... Now everything I've read about this nute, people say to just feed more if any deficiencies come up... Would you think me just feeding it some more could fix these cal issues if it is cal issues? I will agree that was my second thought after nute burn.

You dont need anymore cal.... ;) Never seen that nute before but the ratios between numbers seem fine. In DWC you should not see cal probs this long after changing your mixing routine. So. its not cal def or lockout due to pH up adds. In coco , I have seen them longer awhile and I dont have direct experience with DWC and that prob together but its seems logical that DWC would correct this in root zone quickly,yes? So, you've covered all the bases....roots,pests,ph,no reason to suspect lockout, EC is not too low by any stretch.....time to go with 'harley suggestion of lower EC. Watch it like a hawk. I'd even do a pH rinse of roots if possible. What else would/could it be
 

sudodaemon

Well-Known Member
What if it's a cal deficiency... then lowering the EC would only make it worse... Veg+Bloom is 18% calcium, but if the ppm isn't high enough then would it not show these symptoms? Is this just one of those, I get to try something and hope it doesn't fuck up type deals?
 

GK1

Active Member
What if it's a cal deficiency... then lowering the EC would only make it worse... Veg+Bloom is 18% calcium, but if the ppm isn't high enough then would it not show these symptoms? Is this just one of those, I get to try something and hope it doesn't fuck up type deals?
Nope, thats why the approach is so important. Much of diagnosis is simply going over things in a logical order. You made a correction to mixing a few weeks ago so logically that should be covered given the relatively high cal in your new nutes. It could be cal but you have done your best to elimiante that possibility. So, once again youve covered your bases and EC seems most likely. Thats plant troublshooting in a nutshell. If it is deficient you will see it worsen fairly quickly....look for the more classic cal symptoms. yellowing of leaf blade tips and brown blotchy spots. Make the correction and watch......
 

sudodaemon

Well-Known Member
Nope, thats why the approach is so important. Much of diagnosis is simply going over things in a logical order. You made a correction to mixing a few weeks ago so logically that should be covered given the relatively high cal in your new nutes. It could be cal but you have done your best to elimiante that possibility. So, once again youve covered your bases and EC seems most likely. Thats plant troublshooting in a nutshell. If it is deficient you will see it worsen fairly quickly....look for the more classic cal symptoms. yellowing of leaf blade tips and brown blotchy spots. Make the correction and watch......
I'll try to post more pics in an hour or so, but there are SOME leaves that have brown blotchy spots, and there are some leaves that have yellowing blade tips, I see more yellow on younger leaves, and the older leaves it's like a burn crisp at the edges... so it looks to start yellow and then get crispy and brown... It's just hard for me to diagnose because I just switched nutes from a fucked batch... so I can't tell if these problems are manifesting from back then or if it's the new nutes.
 

sudodaemon

Well-Known Member
Ok, here is some more pics... There are only a handful of leaves that are like the first picture... most it is just the tips... And the second picture... that is the only leaf that is shiny like that (doesn't ph issues cause the glossy look?)

photo 1.jpgphoto 2.jpgphoto 3.jpgphoto 4.jpgphoto 5.jpgphoto.jpg
 

GK1

Active Member
You should do something for pH just for peace of mind. I'd do a flush of plain water and then return to a lower EC and watch. Hows that? ;)
 

sudodaemon

Well-Known Member
I don't have an issue with flushing. I'm just curious as to why. Did a flush about 8 days ago and haven't had any ph issues since doing that flush... That was when I switched to veg+bloom
 

GK1

Active Member
I don't have an issue with flushing. I'm just curious as to why. Did a flush about 8 days ago and haven't had any ph issues since doing that flush... That was when I switched to veg+bloom

So what ph issues are we speaking of? Im a little confused now.
 

sudodaemon

Well-Known Member
i had ph issues that caused me to switch to veg+bloom. since switching to veg+bloom i now have these leaf issues... its either cal def or nute burn... this is what i get to think about tonight... bongsmilie
 

melungeonman

Active Member
Nutes do expire but it takes along time to do that, Usually free samples are fresh, and they don't hang around long. Some nutes are just hotter than others, you may be giving them the right amount according to recomended amounts, but that doesn't mean it's the right proportions. I grow a strain in ebb and flow That requires I go about 300 ppm, and I'll turn that down or run a day with just water to prevent burning. That sensitive.... hard strain to grow but sooooo good. Most of growing mj is strain spacific. It takes awille to dial in your strains. when you do, you will undoubtedly become quite expert at growing those strains, and that's what it's all about.
 

sudodaemon

Well-Known Member
Ok... I went ahead and drained my res... Now we are at ph 5.8, 150ppm. I was thinking I would keep it at 150 for 24-48 hours then bump it to 250ppm and see how things go. I also need to flip to flowering soon because I'm running out of screen.
 

GK1

Active Member
Ok, now i understand. Look at the terminal bud only to determine how your nute change is doing. Even the smallest full leaves could be damage from old issues. Watch that 150 like a hawk and bump it at the first sign of worsening symptoms.
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
Cant argue with that. Backing off to 400 is worth a shot if you feel cal has been looked at and is appropriate. I would watch closely tho because if it is a deficiency or shortage of any nute, backing off will exacerbate the issue quickly....far more quickly than you will see the correction manifest if lower EC is correct. Make sense?
Doesn't calcium uptake limit much past 5.9 pH & up? Not chasing pH, just looking at pH ranges and nutrient uptake by element etc.
 

GK1

Active Member
Doesn't calcium uptake limit much past 5.9 pH & up? Not chasing pH, just looking at pH ranges and nutrient uptake by element etc.
Hmmmm, yes it does become much less available above 6. In solution we want to stay below 6 but its really hard to keep a media at the value of feed water without quite a bit of runoff almost every watering. Especially if said media is alive with biology. So below 6 feed and dont sweat the runoff much. My feed water is as low as 5.5 often and most of my pots are over 6 runoff. Weekly biology and something close to the right EC.....make sense?
 

GK1

Active Member
Ok... I went ahead and drained my res... Now we are at ph 5.8, 150ppm. I was thinking I would keep it at 150 for 24-48 hours then bump it to 250ppm and see how things go. I also need to flip to flowering soon because I'm running out of screen.

Use the terminal buds to indicate health and an OK to flip to flower. You should see improvement very quickly with the actions you've taken. Nice work.
 
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