having real big problems with slime

Budie

Member
hey guys. so ihave a real problem that is annoying the hell out of me! I had brown slime on my roots...root rot or pythium. so I went to the store and got some root rot top and vitalink biopac. the root have gone from having a brown slime to now a white slimey snot consistency. my res is also cloudy white. it smelled funny when I had root rot, it doesn't smell now just this clear slime all over the roots and side of buckets. I clean the res once a week with industrial strength bleach...is the white slime just the beneficials? please please please help as I don't want to loose my crop. thanks in advance :peace: budie
 

Budie

Member
no as I tried the bennies before hand. what would you recommend? I have 4 20 litre buckets filled to 12 litres each root growth and foliar growth are there but slow. why has it gone from brown smelly slime to now white slime. I read that root rot stop from garden aid stops root rot... thanks
 

woodsmaneh!

Well-Known Member
Hit them with H2O2 (peroxide) get some from the hydro store and mix it at a rate of 5 ml 3% peroxide to 1 liter water, so you need 12 ml for each bucket. do this every 4 days till gone.

You problems come from a number of sources, light getting into your res or buckets, water is warm to name a couple.

One of the most common and costly diseases associated with hydroponics; root rot is caused by Pythium spp. These pathogens produce oospores and zoospores which contaminate by contact or move freely throughout water allowing easy access to your plant's delicate root zone. Pythium spp can affect all stages of crops until finishing and primarily attack plant roots but can cause stem rots, cuttings rot, and foliar blight under the right conditions. Temperatures which are ideal for Pythium disease differ for each species and plant affected. Poorly aerated nutrient solution or waterlogged crops can easily create a perfect atmosphere for Pythium spp to thrive, causing severe damage to roots in the process. Once roots are infected with root rot organisms they tend to absorb less water and nutrients. This can in turn lead to foliar wilting and/or nutrient deficiencies. Healthy white roots will begin to turn brown followed by a developing coat of slime(adhesive glycoproteins). Left untreated, the roots will literally rot and detach from the base of the plant. Pythium spp root rot in its worst case will cause crops to die.

Several simple steps can be taken to prevent root rot in your hydroponic garden:
1- Use new or sterilized pots and grow media.
2- Avoid over-watering / over-fertilizing.
3- Adequately aerate your nutrient solution.
4- Ensure proper drainage of your grow media.
5- Keep a clean environment for storage of tools, measuring cups/spoons, and nutrient stock.

Biological control is also available:
1- Hygrozyme*- An enzyme-based product made from all natural, bacteria free ingredients. It breaks down the old root mass to allow for and stimulate new growth. I use this product at 10mL per gallon every solution change followed by a maintenance dose of 25mL per gallon half way through the solution change-out period and can attest to its effectiveness. Used from veg throughout flowering. MAY BE used with H2O2.
2- Serenade*- This product uses Bacillus subtilis as the active ingredient and is approved for organic gardening by the EPA, USDA, and OMRI. I use this product at 1mL per gallon directly in my reservoir every other water change throughout all stages of growth. NEVER combine with H2O2.
3- Florashield*- This product uses Chitosan as the active ingredient and is considered safe to use on and around actively growing plants at all stages of growth. I've used this product before with success but prefer a combination of the two products listed above. DO NOT use this product with Serenade* mixed together in your reservoir; adverse reaction to one another negates their effectiveness. However, Serenade* may still be used separately as a foliar spray to protect against fungi while using Florashield* in your reservoir to protect against root rot. NEVER combine with H2O2. A mix of Chitosan and peroxide will induce oxidative degradation.

Chemical control is also available:
1- H2O2- Hydrogen peroxide is the only effective yet "garden safe" chemical control I feel comfortable recommending. It may be used while growing consumables which isn't always the case with other chemical controls. I used a concentration of approximately 70ppm (test strips aren't 100% accurate) in my nutrient solution with success. I used no other chemical or biological control at the time, but did experience one drawback. The concentration level would dissipate down to 0ppm in two or three hours. If left unattended for one full day algae would start to appear.

References: Chase A. R., 1999, Pythuim Root Rot on Ornamentals, pp 1-2, Western Farm Services; Bagnall R., 2007, Control of Pythium wilt and root rot of hydroponically grown lettuce by means of chemical treatment of the nutrient solution, M.Sc. thesis, University of Pretoria; Owen-Going T. N., 2002, Etiology and epidemiology of Pythium root rot in bell pepper (Capsicum annuum L.) in commercial-scale and small-scale hydroponic systems, M.Sc. thesis, University of Guelph; Owen-Going T. N., Sutton J. C., & Grodzinski B., 2003, Relationships of Pythium isolates and sweet pepper plants in single-plant hydroponic units, Canadian Journal of Plant Pathology 25: pp 155–167; Murinov K. Yu., Romanko T. V., Kuramshina A. R., Kabal'nova N. N., Murinov Yu. I., 2006, Oxidative Degradation of Chitosan under the Action of Hydrogen Peroxide, pp 159-160, Institute of Organic Chemistry, Ufa Scientific Center, Russian Academy of Sciences, Ufa, Bashkortostan, Russia.

*(Hygrozyme is a trademark of Sipco Industries Ltd; Serenade is a registered trademark of AgraQuest Inc; Florashield is a registered trademark of General Hydroponics Inc)
 

Budie

Member
Hit them with H2O2 (peroxide) get some from the hydro store and mix it at a rate of 5 ml 3% peroxide to 1 liter water, so you need 12 ml for each bucket. do this every 4 days till gone.

You problems come from a number of sources, light getting into your res or buckets, water is warm to name a couple.

One of the most common and costly diseases associated with hydroponics; root rot is caused by Pythium spp. These pathogens produce oospores and zoospores which contaminate by contact or move freely throughout water allowing easy access to your plant's delicate root zone. Pythium spp can affect all stages of crops until finishing and primarily attack plant roots but can cause stem rots, cuttings rot, and foliar blight under the right conditions. Temperatures which are ideal for Pythium disease differ for each species and plant affected. Poorly aerated nutrient solution or waterlogged crops can easily create a perfect atmosphere for Pythium spp to thrive, causing severe damage to roots in the process. Once roots are infected with root rot organisms they tend to absorb less water and nutrients. This can in turn lead to foliar wilting and/or nutrient deficiencies. Healthy white roots will begin to turn brown followed by a developing coat of slime(adhesive glycoproteins). Left untreated, the roots will literally rot and detach from the base of the plant. Pythium spp root rot in its worst case will cause crops to die.

Several simple steps can be taken to prevent root rot in your hydroponic garden:
1- Use new or sterilized pots and grow media.
2- Avoid over-watering / over-fertilizing.
3- Adequately aerate your nutrient solution.
4- Ensure proper drainage of your grow media.
5- Keep a clean environment for storage of tools, measuring cups/spoons, and nutrient stock.

Biological control is also available:
1- Hygrozyme*- An enzyme-based product made from all natural, bacteria free ingredients. It breaks down the old root mass to allow for and stimulate new growth. I use this product at 10mL per gallon every solution change followed by a maintenance dose of 25mL per gallon half way through the solution change-out period and can attest to its effectiveness. Used from veg throughout flowering. MAY BE used with H2O2.
2- Serenade*- This product uses Bacillus subtilis as the active ingredient and is approved for organic gardening by the EPA, USDA, and OMRI. I use this product at 1mL per gallon directly in my reservoir every other water change throughout all stages of growth. NEVER combine with H2O2.
3- Florashield*- This product uses Chitosan as the active ingredient and is considered safe to use on and around actively growing plants at all stages of growth. I've used this product before with success but prefer a combination of the two products listed above. DO NOT use this product with Serenade* mixed together in your reservoir; adverse reaction to one another negates their effectiveness. However, Serenade* may still be used separately as a foliar spray to protect against fungi while using Florashield* in your reservoir to protect against root rot. NEVER combine with H2O2. A mix of Chitosan and peroxide will induce oxidative degradation.

Chemical control is also available:
1- H2O2- Hydrogen peroxide is the only effective yet "garden safe" chemical control I feel comfortable recommending. It may be used while growing consumables which isn't always the case with other chemical controls. I used a concentration of approximately 70ppm (test strips aren't 100% accurate) in my nutrient solution with success. I used no other chemical or biological control at the time, but did experience one drawback. The concentration level would dissipate down to 0ppm in two or three hours. If left unattended for one full day algae would start to appear.

References: Chase A. R., 1999, Pythuim Root Rot on Ornamentals, pp 1-2, Western Farm Services; Bagnall R., 2007, Control of Pythium wilt and root rot of hydroponically grown lettuce by means of chemical treatment of the nutrient solution, M.Sc. thesis, University of Pretoria; Owen-Going T. N., 2002, Etiology and epidemiology of Pythium root rot in bell pepper (Capsicum annuum L.) in commercial-scale and small-scale hydroponic systems, M.Sc. thesis, University of Guelph; Owen-Going T. N., Sutton J. C., & Grodzinski B., 2003, Relationships of Pythium isolates and sweet pepper plants in single-plant hydroponic units, Canadian Journal of Plant Pathology 25: pp 155–167; Murinov K. Yu., Romanko T. V., Kuramshina A. R., Kabal'nova N. N., Murinov Yu. I., 2006, Oxidative Degradation of Chitosan under the Action of Hydrogen Peroxide, pp 159-160, Institute of Organic Chemistry, Ufa Scientific Center, Russian Academy of Sciences, Ufa, Bashkortostan, Russia.

*(Hygrozyme is a trademark of Sipco Industries Ltd; Serenade is a registered trademark of AgraQuest Inc; Florashield is a registered trademark of General Hydroponics Inc)
This is amazing advice, what can I add to the fresh solution do I add the h2o2 and all the nutes bar the bennies or just the h2o2?
 

nick88

Well-Known Member
The lower % h202 has a lot of stabilizers in it.. Go for the 29 to 32% peroxide. You can just add it straight to the res.
 

Budie

Member
Do I add my nutes to the solution or just soak in h2o2 the ladies are only very small hardly any roots at all
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
Your H2O2 is an additive to your nutes, not a substitute for them. However you will find a lower PPM while the plant recovers will lead to faster new growth once the slime is gone.
 

bird mcbride

Well-Known Member
First off everyone don't use superthrive in hydro. Change the res water every five to seven days. Make sure you are getting enough air into your res.
 

Budie

Member
First off everyone don't use superthrive in hydro. Change the res water every five to seven days. Make sure you are getting enough air into your res.
why shouldn't you use super thrive? so I have soaked the ladies in h2o2 and blitzed everything with a strong solution. put my bennies in some fresh water and left for about 16 hours then added some REVIVE by AN and then earlier like 30 mins ago added all the rest of my nutes at normal strength (as I was before) so far...no slime...early days though see what 24-48 hours brings! thanks for all your help and comments. anyone else got any experiences? :peace: budie
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
why shouldn't you use super thrive? so I have soaked the ladies in h2o2 and blitzed everything with a strong solution. put my bennies in some fresh water and left for about 16 hours then added some REVIVE by AN and then earlier like 30 mins ago added all the rest of my nutes at normal strength (as I was before) so far...no slime...early days though see what 24-48 hours brings! thanks for all your help and comments. anyone else got any experiences? :peace: budie
this is one reason why no superjive.http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda Chalker-Scott/Horticultural Myths_files/Myths/Vitamin B1.pdf

this is how to get rid of it https://www.rollitup.org/dwc-bubbleponics/361430-dwc-root-slime-cure-aka.html
 

Budie

Member
ok bad news...I went to look this morning and have brown slime on bottom of effected roots. im confused though as I have new roots coming through...pearly white ones. they didn't have any slime just the old yellow roots. could I cut those roots off? or is this a no no? my thinking is they are broken and hurting so are susceptible to a repeat attack from the slime. I just don't get it I blitzed everything with h2o2 there is no way it could have survived in my buckets. this is really onnying! :peace: budie
 

chuck estevez

Well-Known Member
ok bad news...I went to look this morning and have brown slime on bottom of effected roots. im confused though as I have new roots coming through...pearly white ones. they didn't have any slime just the old yellow roots. could I cut those roots off? or is this a no no? my thinking is they are broken and hurting so are susceptible to a repeat attack from the slime. I just don't get it I blitzed everything with h2o2 there is no way it could have survived in my buckets. this is really onnying! :peace: budie
you find every answer in the link I posted above.
 

Murphio

Well-Known Member
Good link Chuck. I always had my doubts about thiamine products. I completely cut them out of my mix for the last couple of grows and I must say that my plants are doing better without the added nutrient concentration, and my wallet appreciates it too.
 
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