World Of Hempy

Moebius

Well-Known Member
Calcium



Calcium occurs throughout the entire plant. It is used for many processes in the plant, however, calcium is most important for the growth process. It has a regulating effect in the cells and contributes to the stability of the plant. Plants have two transportation systems at their disposal: the xylem vessels and the sieve vessels. Most nutrients can be transported via both systems, however, for calcium this is not possible. Since calcium can be transported almost exclusively via the xylem vessels, it is an element that deposes of little mobility within the plant. It is, therefore, important that a sufficient amount of calcium is always available in the root environment, so that it will be continuously available for absorption by the plant.

About calcium in short

What is it and what does it do?Is important to the growth process.Has a regulating effect in the cells and contributes to the stability of the plant.
What do you see?Yellow/brown spots, surrounded by a sharp brown outlined edge.
What can you do?
Add calcium by applying a liquid lime fertilliser such as a calcium nitrate solution.



Symptoms of a deficiency


The older, larger leaves just above the bottommost ones will show the first symptoms. Yellow/brown spots occur, which are often surrounded by a sharp brown outlined edge. In addition, the growth is curbed and in serious cases the tops are smaller than normal and do not close.
Development of a deficiency


  • The symptoms often appear quickly; within one or two weeks of the first spots being visible on the older leaves. The spots usually start as small, light brown specks that increase in size over time.
  • After two weeks, the older leaves show ever increasing spots and the spots also often appear at the edge of the leaves, as with a potassium deficiency or with scorch symptoms. The spots have a sharp outline and do not originate exclusively at the edge of the leaves. A lag in development is often already noticeable within a week.
  • Sometimes the growing points will wrinkle up and around the fruits you will find thin, small leaves that are not spotted.
  • The older leaves die off slowly and yellowish cloudy spots may appear around the necrotic spots. The older the leaf is, the more serious the symptoms are.
  • The flowering is also hindered and slowed down. Fruits stay small.

Reasons for a deficiency


  • Culture on calcium fixing soil.
  • An excessive amount of ammonium, potassium, magnesium and/or sodium in the root environment. The absorption is curbed mostly by ammonium and least by sodium.
  • Problems with the evaporation caused by an excessively high EC value or by excessively high or low relative humidity.
Solutions to a deficiency


  • If the EC value of the substrate or the soil is too high, it can be easily rinsed out with pure and if necessary acidified water.
  • Additional calcium can be applied through the nutrient solution by means of liquid lime fertilisers such as a calcium nitrate solution. With an excessively acidic soil, lime milk can be used to increase the pH.
  • Use the appropriate soil that is not too acidic. Acid soil often contains insufficient amounts of lime. Good potting soil and Coco substrates are already limed.

http://www.canna-uk.com/info-courier_calcium
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
Nitrogen



Nitrogen is one of the important elements a plant needs. It is an important part of proteins, chlorophyll, vitamins, hormones and DNA. Because it is a component of enzymes, nitrogen is involved in all enzyme reactions and plays an active role in the plant’s metabolism. Nitrogen is mainly absorbed by the plant in the form of nitrate and ammonium. It can also be absorbed via small organic molecules. It is important that the balance between nitrate and ammonium is correct in the feeding otherwise the pH in the rhizosphere (environment immediately surrounding the roots) will become too high or too low. Plants with nitrate as their source of nitrogen have a higher organic acid content. This has an influence on the taste and storage life of the harvest among other things.
Nitrate is converted into ammonium in the plant by the nitroreductase enzyme. Ammonium is then assimilated into organic molecules. Nitrogen has a positive influence on the plant’s growth. The plant gets bigger leaves, more branches and the vegetative period is extended.

About nitrogen in short


What is it and what does it do?Nitrogen is a component of enzymes and is therefore involved in all enzyme reactions and plays an active role in the plant’s metabolism.
What do you see?
Purple stalks, yellowing leaves and leaves falls of.
What can you do?
Raise EC of the feeding or add extra nitrogen.

Symptoms of a deficiency

Stalks will turn purple and leaves will yellow and finally fall off.

Development of a deficiency


  • quickly followed by larger leaves in the middle and top parts of the plant.
  • The plant is a lighter colour as a whole.
  • Larger leaves in the lower part of the plant turn light green. The leaf stalks of the smaller leaves now also turn purple. Typical vertical purple stripes appear in the stem.
  • Leaves in the lower part of the plant turn more yellow and then become white. Finally, the leaves whither and fall off.
  • The growth is visibly inhibited giving shorter plants, thinner stems, less leaf formation and smaller leaves.
  • Further yellowing and whitening occurs in the top and middle parts of the plant.
  • Leaves on growing points remain green longer but they are a lot less green than at normal nitrogen levels.
  • Forced flowering starts and there is substantial leaf loss.
  • Substantial reduction in yield.


Reasons for a deficiency

Deficiency can be caused by incorrect feeding or giving feeding that contains insufficient nutrient elements. Substrates that contain a lot of fresh organic material can cause nitrogen deficiency because microorganisms bind the nitrogen. A lot of nitrogen can be bound, particularly in the first weeks; this is released later but it is generally too late.

Solutions for a deficiency


  • Raise the EC of the feeding and rinse the substrate well with it.
  • Add nitrogen yourself to the feeding solution by using urea, blood meal, semi-liquid manure or by using a special “mono-nutrient’ product.
  • Spray the underside of the leaves with a nitrogen solution. This can best be done at the end of the day, just before the lights are turned off. Be careful not to cause burning.

http://www.canna-uk.com/info-courier_nitrogen
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
Iron



Iron is a vital element for plant life. Iron has a number of important functions in the overall metabolism of the plant and is essential for the synthesis of chlorophyll. In general, iron is poorly absorbed by the plant. It can only be sufficiently taken up by the roots in certain forms and under proper conditions. Soil seldom contains too little iron, but it is possible that forms of iron that can be absorbed by the plant are lacking. The absorbency of iron is strongly dependent on the pH. Ordinarily, there is sufficient iron present in absorbable form in acidic soils.

About iron in short

What is it and what does it do?Iron has a number of important functions in the plant’s overall metabolism and is essential for the synthesis of chlorophyll.
What do you see?
Strong yellowing of especially the young leaves and growth shoots between the veins.
What can you do?
The best thing is to spray the plants with a watery solution of EDDHA or EDTA chelates.



Symptoms of a deficiency

Iron deficiency can occur during periods of heavy growth or high plant stress and is characterised by a strong yellowing of the young leaves and the growth shoots between the veins. This occurs chiefly because iron is not mobile in the plant. The young leaves can’t draw any iron from the older leaves. With a serious iron shortage, the older leaves and the smaller veins in the leaf can also turn yellow.

Development of a deficiency



  • Green/yellow chlorosis, from inside to the outside in the younger leaves and in the growth shoots. The veins remain mostly green.
  • Continued yellowing of the leaves to sometimes almost white. Also, large leaves turn yellow. This inhibits growth.
  • In serious cases the leaves show necrosis, and the plant’s growth and flowering are inhibited.

Reasons for a deficiency


  • The pH in the root environment is too high (pH> 6,5).
  • The root environment contains a lot of zinc and/or manganese.
  • The concentration of iron is too low in the root environment.
  • The root temperature is low.
  • The root medium is too wet, causing the oxygen supply in the roots to stagnate.
  • The root system functions inefficiently due to damaged, infected or dead roots.
  • There is too much light on the nutrition tank; light promotes the growth of algae. Algae also use up the iron and break down iron chelates.

Solutions for a deficiency


  • Lower the pH.
  • Iron chelates can be added to the substrate.
  • Drainage can be improved, or the ground temperature can be increased.
  • A leaf nutrient with iron chelates can possibly be applied. If a good fertiliser is used with hydroponic growing, an iron deficiency is almost out of the question.
  • The best thing you can do is spray the plants with a watery solution of EDDHA - (max. 0.1 grams per litre) or EDTA chelates (max. 0.5 grams per litre).

http://www.canna-uk.com/info-courier_iron
 

jela10

Well-Known Member
Even though I use larger hempy buckets and have it sooo easy…I still can’t help but think about my 2L friends out there and the challenges they face keeping bottles from falling over and mating them side by side with bins of sorts and then there’s the watering mess with water falling between bottles. I was smoking the other night and flashed back to my last alien abduction…on this particular trip the aliens forwent the usual anal probing’s and let me wonder. Deep within the bowels of the ship I saw some strange cylindrical condensation collectors with weird looking deflectors that bound the cylinders at the top while keeping the drops of whatever fluid running into the containers. The memory stuck and I decided to model it up in 3D and pass it to you. This bottle clip could be vacuum formed from cheap ABS plastic for cents on the dollar by a fellow hobbyist. It would allow the 2L folks the chance to use any old tray for drainage and manage the matrix of bottles to fit their grow area instead of by the bin size. And best of all it would keep the overspray of water/nutes going into the bottles instead of falling between. Kinda make it “green” don’t you think?
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Moebius

Well-Known Member
Even though I use larger hempy buckets and have it sooo easy…I still can’t help but think about my 2L friends out there and the challenges they face keeping bottles from falling over and mating them side by side with bins of sorts and then there’s the watering mess with water falling between bottles. I was smoking the other night and flashed back to my last alien abduction…on this particular trip the aliens forwent the usual anal probing’s and let me wonder. Deep within the bowels of the ship I saw some strange cylindrical condensation collectors with weird looking deflectors that bound the cylinders at the top while keeping the drops of whatever fluid running into the containers. The memory stuck and I decided to model it up in 3D and pass it to you. This bottle clip could be vacuum formed from cheap ABS plastic for cents on the dollar by a fellow hobbyist. It would allow the 2L folks the chance to use any old tray for drainage and manage the matrix of bottles to fit their grow area instead of by the bin size. And best of all it would keep the overspray of water/nutes going into the bottles instead of falling between. Kinda make it “green” don’t you think?
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Well thats new. Fantastic concept and CAD skills. I really think that would work there buddy. ... I wonder, if the flanges were longer and slide down between the substrate and the Hempy that they might provide more stability. Maybe two or three times longer.

+REP
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
This is another option and something I think is really neat. Currently on sale on ebay at $14.99 BIN. so more expensive than your option.

Whats brilliant about these is that you ca tape up the 2L's and leave the bottom section clear. Its always more difficult to paint or tape the knobbly part of the bottle, this makes it un-necessary and will provide a window to whats happening in the res.

Also, one can carry a set of hempys around quite easily.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/COCA-COLA-2L-BOTTLE-8-PACK-RECYCLED-PLASTIC-RED-CARRIER-HOLDER-/251222423941?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a7e05f985



 

Praetorian

Well-Known Member
Okay guys, after 3 years without them, they're back, everyone's favorite - fucking spider mites. I had mites years ago when I first got clones (they had mites on them when I got them) - managed to get rid of them with aggressive treatments of neem oil and hot shot No Pest Strips (NPS)... This infestation is not too bad right now, I have one mother plant that is hit pretty good but I hosed it with neem last night (I'm using the einstein cold pressed expensive shit mixed with some all-natural Brommer's peppermint soap). Then I went to Home Depot and scooped up 3 NPS's.

I found a few mites on a few of my plants in the flower room, but hardly any signs of leaf damage yet - probably why I didn't know they had moved in. I know the chemicals in the NPS's are not too good for you but with my perpetual setup I need to use something in the bloom room to manage these little fuckers since I can't really spray any of my flowering plants (4+ weeks old on all of them right now, can't spray neem on them). We are moving in a few weeks to the new place and I really don't want them to come along for the ride.

Any tips that WOH members have in their crusades against mites, I'm all ears. Anybody ever mix up a natural spray? I recall reading stuff about garlic and cheyenne pepper working in combination with neem treatments (the theory being - mix up your treatment methods so they don't resist one treatment). Ive been using NPSs as preventative for years since my first episode but I got 'lax on replacing them once a month like I use to.. Probably why I have them now.
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
Jela -

The combination of those trays on the bottom and your invention ('clips') at the top would make these hempy trays very stable and portable. A gower could easily walk to and fro with 8 Hempys in their arms.
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
Okay guys, after 3 years without them, they're back, everyone's favorite - fucking spider mites. I had mites years ago when I first got clones (they had mites on them when I got them) - managed to get rid of them with aggressive treatments of neem oil and hot shot No Pest Strips (NPS)... This infestation is not too bad right now, I have one mother plant that is hit pretty good but I hosed it with neem last night (I'm using the einstein cold pressed expensive shit mixed with some all-natural Brommer's peppermint soap). Then I went to Home Depot and scooped up 3 NPS's.

I found a few mites on a few of my plants in the flower room, but hardly any signs of leaf damage yet - probably why I didn't know they had moved in. I know the chemicals in the NPS's are not too good for you but with my perpetual setup I need to use something in the bloom room to manage these little fuckers since I can't really spray any of my flowering plants (4+ weeks old on all of them right now, can't spray neem on them). We are moving in a few weeks to the new place and I really don't want them to come along for the ride.

Any tips that WOH members have in their crusades against mites, I'm all ears. Anybody ever mix up a natural spray? I recall reading stuff about garlic and cheyenne pepper working in combination with neem treatments (the theory being - mix up your treatment methods so they don't resist one treatment). Ive been using NPSs as preventative for years since my first episode but I got 'lax on replacing them once a month like I use to.. Probably why I have them now.
Considered 'Mighty Wash'?

Ive got a bottle here waiting for them to show-up.

edit:
(I could be wrong, but an infested mother is always going to be a risk) I think you may need to take a clone and start again. Especially since you move soon.
 

Indoor Sun King

Well-Known Member
My dirt dwelling dwarfs were sun tanning yesterday and are looking better but so far behind the hempy.

They may end up as full time sun bathers as space becomes tight in the closet and the sun becomes stronger.

I rearranged the lights....now have fourteen 23 watts...8x 6500k, 4x 5000k, 2x 2700k.

I brought the pH up to approx 6, and only mix enough for that watering, the hempy seems to be doing better.

Question: do you think using a milk frothier (shown in pic) to create bubbles/oxygen into the water/nutes would have any noticeable value?

cheers
 

Praetorian

Well-Known Member
Considered 'Mighty Wash'?

Ive got a bottle here waiting for them to show-up.

edit:
(I could be wrong, but an infested mother is always going to be a risk) I think you may need to take a clone and start again. Especially since you move soon.
I think I can eliminate them. It seems easier to get rid of mites on a mother plant because you can hose it all the time, where as a plant in bloom cant really be sprayed after a certain point. I sprayed last night at 6pm and just again this AM at 11am. Like I said, alot of people rely and trust the pest strips, I have used them for a while but I'm just worried about getting rid of them in my bloom room relying on the pest strips alone. My lights are off right now so I have unplugged all my air circulation and with the two new pest strips in that room I should be able to rid them (fingers crossed). I also just read about this habenero spray and I might try that as well.
 

Rusty Shakelford

Well-Known Member
I think I can eliminate them. It seems easier to get rid of mites on a mother plant because you can hose it all the time, where as a plant in bloom cant really be sprayed after a certain point. I sprayed last night at 6pm and just again this AM at 11am. Like I said, alot of people rely and trust the pest strips, I have used them for a while but I'm just worried about getting rid of them in my bloom room relying on the pest strips alone. My lights are off right now so I have unplugged all my air circulation and with the two new pest strips in that room I should be able to rid them (fingers crossed). I also just read about this habenero spray and I might try that as well.
I keep a NPS in both Veg and Flower.. They are basically like a Big Flea Collar, and the chemical dissipates after a few days. You can also use them during certain times, by just putting them in a Plastic Zip Lock Bag, and bringing them out when you want or need them.
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
I think I can eliminate them. It seems easier to get rid of mites on a mother plant because you can hose it all the time, where as a plant in bloom cant really be sprayed after a certain point. I sprayed last night at 6pm and just again this AM at 11am. Like I said, alot of people rely and trust the pest strips, I have used them for a while but I'm just worried about getting rid of them in my bloom room relying on the pest strips alone. My lights are off right now so I have unplugged all my air circulation and with the two new pest strips in that room I should be able to rid them (fingers crossed). I also just read about this habenero spray and I might try that as well.
Goodluck man, I can't stand those things. They really take the piss when they start spinning webs.
 

Indoor Sun King

Well-Known Member
I just noticed on pic 7 (from my above post), one of the leaves has a brown tip.

I'm sure it is not burnt from touching the CFL but maybe heat stress, or could this be nutes, pH ......or other?
 

Moebius

Well-Known Member
I just noticed on pic 7 (from my above post), one of the leaves has a brown tip.

I'm sure it is not burnt from touching the CFL but maybe heat stress, or could this be nutes, pH ......or other?
Burnt tip from touching the CFL. Nothing to worry about. .... I think you may be overwatering though (droopy leaf) . Since you're using CFL, the plant won't drink as much as it would with HID. ... wait a little longer between feeds..... JMO.
 
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