Wtf is my plant flowering?

strikinghigh55

Well-Known Member
says the guy with 91 posts.

- the browning looks like calmag? no?

What does post count have to do with anything? Not to call you out, but that is the mentality of a 14 year old girl on facebook. And it seems to me that the discoloration of the leaves has nothing to do with nutrients considering the plants share a res and only one plant showed signs. I personally believe the thread starter was correct to begin with. It looks like a fungus or mold (judging from the black color - not typical of burns or defs) probably caused by the increased moisture from the humidifier being too close to the plant. This is my opinion. Feel free to flame me for having one. Also please reference my low post count when doing so. Thanks.

And to the thread-starter: You have a great start and your plants are looking very nice now. I would move the humidifier (or change the output direction) just to air on the side of caution. Especially when flowering. Excess moisture blowing directly on to a budding plant is a great recipe for mold. Good luck and happy farming.

Peace
 

ShineOn

Well-Known Member
says the guy with 91 posts.

- the browning looks like calmag? no?
I keep seeing this kind of thing posted a few times around here and it's an ignorant statement. A persons total number of posts is not indicative of ones experience in growing. That's ridiculous thinking, one could of been part of different community or chosen not to be part of an online community.
 

VX420

Active Member
What does post count have to do with anything? Not to call you out, but that is the mentality of a 14 year old girl on facebook. And it seems to me that the discoloration of the leaves has nothing to do with nutrients considering the plants share a res and only one plant showed signs. I personally believe the thread starter was correct to begin with. It looks like a fungus or mold (judging from the black color - not typical of burns or defs) probably caused by the increased moisture from the humidifier being too close to the plant. This is my opinion. Feel free to flame me for having one. Also please reference my low post count when doing so. Thanks.

And to the thread-starter: You have a great start and your plants are looking very nice now. I would move the humidifier (or change the output direction) just to air on the side of caution. Especially when flowering. Excess moisture blowing directly on to a budding plant is a great recipe for mold. Good luck and happy farming.

Peace
Says the guy with only 185 posts.. Theeep :) J F K :)))
 

strikinghigh55

Well-Known Member
There is a lot to be said for a man who listens more than he talks. The same can be said for a man who reads more than he writes. These people run around from thread to thread and post (usually more harrassing than posting) completely useless and off-topic rubbish. This thread was created by a fellow grower for an online community to help assess and diagnose a problem leading to resolve and solution. Why bother posting if your best diagnosis is "looks like calmag? no?"? I mean, is that an answer or a question? I was under the impression that Cal-Mag was a calcium and magnesium additive. So are you saying its a Cal-mag deficiency or burn? Seems to me any proper diagnosis shouldn't contain 2 question marks. I didn't mean to rant and I'm sorry to have hijacked the thread, but I have been on this particular forum for a few years now and this sort of behavior is becomming more and more the norm. No one is impressed by how many ignorant statements you've made or how many people you've irritated in doing so. Get a life.

Ok, I'm done. Gotta get it out of my system every couple years.
 

RIKNSTEIN

Well-Known Member
anaw, imo 20/4 works fine. I've done it before with no problems. And I know Uncle Ben recommends the same thing
That's what I'm running now and I think its perfect for what I want. Short bushy plants with many nodes and not as much height. It will gain a lot of height during flower and will have more budsites with more nodes on 20/4. I think I am getting the most out of my plant without stressing her too much by changing her light schedule drastically.

While you can grow a plant in most any light 24/0-18/6-16/8 or even 12/12 from bean, it is recommended you do not do 24/0 as the plant needs time to recoup, to build up it's energy for the next day of growing. I have mine on 18/6 for the first month then go to 16/8 for the second month, and then throw them into flower on the 3rd month at 12/12...I have no probs with my plant stretchin cuz I keep CFLs close to the tops so they don't have to...

45 days from sprout (2).jpg45 days from sprout.jpg1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg006.jpg

and this is only 13 days in flower..

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Dandilion Patch

Active Member
While you can grow a plant in most any light 24/0-18/6-16/8 or even 12/12 from bean, it is recommended you do not do 24/0 as the plant needs time to recoup, to build up it's energy for the next day of growing. I have mine on 18/6 for the first month then go to 16/8 for the second month, and then throw them into flower on the 3rd month at 12/12...I have no probs with my plant stretchin cuz I keep CFLs close to the tops so they don't have to...

View attachment 2574257View attachment 2574259View attachment 2574260View attachment 2574263View attachment 2574264View attachment 2574265

and this is only 13 days in flower..

View attachment 2574266View attachment 2574267
While you are correct that the plants need time to recoup, your incorrect in the fact that plants still recoup in the daytime. If a plant is not given a dark period, it takes time out of its growth to recoup the energy it needs in order to continue to grow. If they need time to recoup and are not receiving it on 24/0 how are plants still growing? Now as to which is better, its up to the grower and the strain. The argument could be carried on for years, and will, but this has nothing really to do with the OP's (me) question.
 

ShineOn

Well-Known Member
While you are correct that the plants need time to recoup, your incorrect in the fact that plants still recoup in the daytime. If a plant is not given a dark period, it takes time out of its growth to recoup the energy it needs in order to continue to grow. If they need time to recoup and are not receiving it on 24/0 how are plants still growing? Now as to which is better, its up to the grower and the strain. The argument could be carried on for years, and will, but this has nothing really to do with the OP's (me) question.
i just email the farm and ask them what they suggest. I mean who knows better than the farm themselves
 

DANKSWAG

Well-Known Member
Its not a pissing contest bro, with that being said nice looking plants. Let it be clear though that the problems I experienced was not from growing in a hydro, but from my inexperience. Whether I yield half a pound or nothing, the experience and knowledge I have gained through my first grow is good enough. And through the deficiency, nute burn, high temps and stunted growth I have come out with two respectable plants. With that being said, I just fimmed and lollipopped one of my plants what do you guys think?
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I agree no contest, however you've missed my point and failed to answer my basic premise, which is why invite more work, more opportunity for failure when it could be so much easier... again as I said unless your growing in hydro for the experience of learning how time consuming, costly $$$ and difficult it can be to maintain a stable water reservoir that could and for most inexperienced growers, you should cut your teeth in dirt. Learn how the plant reacts using soil as a buffer to counter noob mistakes, I mean seriously your asking if your plant was flowering and you haven't even gone to a 12/12 yet. Not being able to distinguish new growth from flowering raising some concerns and thus my exaltation to you to consider soil. If you've got the time and money to burn, enjoy yourself.. hopefully you will have a little something to burn in the end.:bigjoint:
 

Dandilion Patch

Active Member
I agree no contest, however you've missed my point and failed to answer my basic premise, which is why invite more work, more opportunity for failure when it could be so much easier... again as I said unless your growing in hydro for the experience of learning how time consuming, costly $$$ and difficult it can be to maintain a stable water reservoir that could and for most inexperienced growers, you should cut your teeth in dirt. Learn how the plant reacts using soil as a buffer to counter noob mistakes, I mean seriously your asking if your plant was flowering and you haven't even gone to a 12/12 yet. Not being able to distinguish new growth from flowering raising some concerns and thus my exaltation to you to consider soil. If you've got the time and money to burn, enjoy yourself.. hopefully you will have a little something to burn in the end.:bigjoint:
Agreed, I chose to grow in a dwc because the thought and sound of it seemed interesting to me. It was a hobby that seemed interesting to me and something I wanted to learn more about. I was asking if it was flowering because I havent switched it to 12/12. Obviously it would be flowering if I switched it, I wouldnt be concerned in that case. My concern is that Im running 20/4 and it was developing what looked to be a top. I have come to find out that it is indeed just new growth but my concerns still seem valid being that the picture showed what appeared to me as a top. Im not sure that if this was growing in soil if this would still look like a top to me? Nor do I think its easier to grow in soil. It is a lot messier and requires more work watering and giving nutrients. And I honestly think its a general consensus that if done right a hydro grow yields more then soil. Not saying that you cant grow dank buds, but Ive always read hydro has more potential for good and bad. I hope I didnt come off as offensive, just trying to get on the same page.
 

strikinghigh55

Well-Known Member
I agree no contest, however you've missed my point and failed to answer my basic premise, which is why invite more work, more opportunity for failure when it could be so much easier... again as I said unless your growing in hydro for the experience of learning how time consuming, costly $$$ and difficult it can be to maintain a stable water reservoir that could and for most inexperienced growers, you should cut your teeth in dirt. Learn how the plant reacts using soil as a buffer to counter noob mistakes, I mean seriously your asking if your plant was flowering and you haven't even gone to a 12/12 yet. Not being able to distinguish new growth from flowering raising some concerns and thus my exaltation to you to consider soil. If you've got the time and money to burn, enjoy yourself.. hopefully you will have a little something to burn in the end.:bigjoint:
With all due respect, there is a certain amount of research and learning that must take place to grow pot any way you choose to do so. If someone is willing to go the extra mile to learn hydro instead of soil, and is confident in themselves, why not try? There will be many questions for a new grower no matter what they do for the first time. Isn't that what this forum is for? Just because some people cannot grasp hydroponic cultivation (or just have terrible luck?) doesn't mean that soil is the solution for every new grower. I won't take a side on which method is better. I've seen amazing results from both. But in our line of farming, there is no one-size-fits-all method for any skill/experience level.
 
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