BHO with Vacuum oil/wax tutorial

vacpurge

New Member
well. woke up this morning to this. like you described... all movement had stopped. it was just a semi dryish patty. I am scared to raise the heat. my heat plate is around 125 130. my dish is around 100. and somehow the oil is around 110-115 still. hasnt moved all night. I think my problem before was starting too hot, getting the oil too thin when vacing it. too thin and too hot (130 ish right off the bat)... you NEED to start around 100 or less. and that includes not purging the initial butane outside with boiling hot water.

I am going to try a larger batch next time... chop the weed fine and really rinse it (like I normally do), and dont purge over near boiling water (like I normally do)... just hot water (its cold water after about 10 seconds outside at -25C with a giant dish of ice cold butane inside of it)

I dont think its my techniques or material that was stopping me from making oil in the past, I think it was my heat settings were too high.






dont know why it came out so dark. I find that putting that rag inside of the exhaust port of the pump reduces the noise by 90%, if I cover it again, its 95% quiet and you can barely hear it. not bad for 110$ china pump off ebay. 5cfm.


 

650baquet

Active Member
You say you have some Choco as well about to flower??

Ya I have only had one harvest from the Choco and put a couple good size nugs aside to cure long term so a visiting friend could have a taste...it was hard not to smoke it. But after 4 months this stuff would still instantly stink up the whole house and was a very nice overall head and body high, but it came onto the head STRONGLY and immediately after exhaling and taking another fresh breath of air. The LCOG is the same way but it's mainly just an intense head high with no crazy body effects(talking about raw herb here, not BHO), at least for me but herb can effect ppl slightly differently. I'm going to flower the LCOG an extra week next time which will put it at 10.5wks and see how the high changes, maybe even go longer but I really don't want to get any couch lock cause then i won't want it.
Do you happen to know much of the LCOG? I'm looking to get rid of the Vanilla Kush I have and getting something else similar to the LCOG...something that is naturally fairly dense with awesome flavor and mainly heady...and it would be nice if she didn't grow so damn lanky lol, I have to pinch/fim/top the crap out of her. I usually prefer to just use low stress techniques. I was thing maybe a Sour Diesel cross or something along that line...have any suggestions??
 

650baquet

Active Member
you NEED to start around 100 or less. and that includes not purging the initial butane outside with boiling hot water.
That is a good idea. I never heat anything more than I have to due to more terpene loss.
So my LostCoastOG run had the butane boiled off with water as hot as my tap could get it...about 135F...then how ever much it cooled while i transported outside. Then I figured as long as then water stays around 90F it should be able to boil off just fine. So I just kept exchanging the cold water for new. It was around 30F at the time of butane boil-off. It waxed up really well IMO. And when I observed during vacuum it really only took <2hr before it started looking "waxy". In the AM it looked like a yellow turd HAHA!...and that's the first thing my friends said when I showed them.
Then I did a run with some BlueDream and I didn't want to wait so long and have to make so many trips to the house, so i boiled some water then took it outside. Not sure if that made it a little darker but it's as dark as yours and looks slightly similar...but it eventually waxed up just fine.
Main difference between the texture of the LCOG and BD wax is that the LCOG will barley stick to my dabber unless it's warm or covered in oil, the BD is more firm and actually sticks pretty well. The LCOG vapes cleaner too...but go figure it's very very yellow, not even an amber really.

BTW I always keep my pan covered with a sheet of paper of whatever will vent and keep particulates out and I will not be using boiling water anymore...my signature says it all, just be patient and you will be rewarded, if you don't die in the mean-time haha. Heat slowly checking frequently with IRTgun. I wouldn't be afraid of hitting the oil with 110-130F right before and during vacuum but you can also slowly increase it during the vacuum as I did. Just pull the vacuum at room temp and slowly raise the temp. I feel like everybody kinda figures out their own little madness in the method, which is the funnest part. Experimenting to produce results that you can learn from! YAY.
Wow the LCOG really gets me rolling in the morning.
Look forward to seeing more of your progress, oh and nice Vacuum chamber.
 

650baquet

Active Member
Hey guys, just want to say I'll be doing the second wash of my LCOG and I will do a second wash of the BD as well. I initially had 20.6g or somthing of the LCOG and 9G of the BD before the first wash. I tried to do a small QWIso run with some of the LCOG but iso pulls chlorophyll way too easy, and I would have to go online to get 99%...plus shipping, I might as well stick with butane I think it's more fun too.
The QWIso turned out on the gooey side and of course is very sedative and dark in color. I don't plan on doing any more QWIso except for when I wash off my nylon screens used during the BHO process and any utensils that touched the honey. For the screens I just fill the bottom of a pyrex dish with a little bit of iso and wash each screen in the same iso and save it in the freezer repeating the process until i feel it won't wash the screen very well. By that time the iso looks super golden and cloudy but no green at all of course. Some of the best iso hash i've had but you don't yield very much. I've also done a similar thing with a ziploc bag and soaking each part of grinders individually until it's very golden in color.
I'll be posting some pics tomorrow morning with the second wash LCOG and BD.
PEACE!
IMG_20130320_062027_246 2.jpg
Trainwreck just started flushing, hoping for about 1.5oz depending on density of nugs could easily be 2oz. 2 plants. 80% of each plant will be BHOed
 

Guzias1

Well-Known Member
so, you never know what the f you are going to get..



the last batch i ran, the same material finished at 148Fish

soo, this time around, here i show it went down

start off: (every time i raised the heat, i would release the vac, and take a reading of the actual oil, the re vac)

115F f

125F

130F

140F

147F

currently 156.9F !!

crazyy stuff.
 

vacpurge

New Member
looks like yours dries right out. seems like its a very fine line between being a liquid, drying (like your stage) then getting it too hot and turning it into a permanent liquid again. weird.

2 batches in the chamber at once. as simple as it is, I never thought of that! (yet)
 

650baquet

Active Member
I feel like the time it takes to appear waxy during vacuum has to do with how much butane was initially able to boil off before you throw it in the vacuum. I might have mentioned once that once I bring my honey inside I heat it a bit @100F and whip it slightly for 10 sec or so then let it sit as some of the bubbles will start enlarging and you can pop them before they get too big if it happens. I then cool it and compile before vacuuming. Doesn't seem to take long before the waxy appearance...appears :p
Let me know if anyone thinks this may help honey wax faster.
 

650baquet

Active Member
start off: (every time i raised the heat, i would release the vac, and take a reading of the actual oil, the re vac)

115F f

125F

130F

140F

147F

currently 156.9F !!

crazyy stuff.
So you just keep raising the heat until you notice a negative effect, such as it changing back to liquid. I feel like with long enough heating and constant vacuum you will suck so much moisture out that all that should be left is the concentrate including waxes and other negative solids and oils. This being said I don't believe It should ever turn into a gooey form or should never be permanently gooey. Though, I have only made a few runs and I can be sure of any of that until I mess around with it a little more.
What material did you run there? Trim/bud?
 

vacpurge

New Member
well I let mine sit overnight and it somehow got to 130f and liquified.... too hot. fuck!!! ill have to try again I guess now.
 

650baquet

Active Member
Interesting how it increases so much overnight. But ya try again with low heat setting. I vacuum mine for 12hr each time even if I think it's ready to come out. I just keep my heat pretty low and check every 1/2 hr until I fall asleep. Haven't had any issues with my oil temp raising. I do know that as liquids evaporate or even boil-off there is a "cooling" action going on due to the evaporating liquid taking so heat along with it cooling the material slightly. Once that liquid is completely gone temperature of the material will quickly raise to the temp of the hotplate. One time I had my dbl boiler actually boiling with Iso in a pan and a fan boiling on it. The surface temp of the iso never got high that 110Fish until it was almost all evaporated then then temp climbed very rapidly. I'm not sure if this effect is happening to you in a small way.
At least if it doesn't waxy up it's still completely usable, not sure if it would really have and difference other than texture and handling properties. I'm kinda tired of my wax not staying on my dabber lol so I may want to have something more sticky but then again I feel like the most butane is purged from a combination of heat and vacuum purging. I'm going to mess around with heat setting this morning and I am going to start vacuuming the second washes of LCOG and BD here in a few minutes. Can't wait to tell the taste and high of the second wash.
 

vacpurge

New Member
1. why does my vac purged oil kinda taste plastic-y? sure doesnt taste like the bud, or like the delicious taste of un vac purged oil... so wtf?

2. vacuum pump steam... what exactly is it? does it mean that the pump is still pulling air/moisture/something from the vac chamber?? seems like mine doesnt stop creating steam out of the exhaust port, does that mean its still pulling on the chamber? basically, what im asking again is; does it purge the oil better when you let the pump run and keep pulling, even though it pulled its max (or has it?) or should you just turn the pump off and shut the valve trapping the vacuum in the chamber and letting it sit.
 

vacpurge

New Member
thats very interesting regarding the oil theory but im not too sure what it is.

I do know that my oil gets to 100-110f instantly, even though the temp of the surface of my chamber only read at about 95f. weird.

anyways, I had a nice dried out wax stuff yesterday, but I think I overdid it and now I got a fuckin perma oil again!!!!! ggoooo foreverrrrr :(
 

650baquet

Active Member
My friend leaves his BHO in a gooey form. I'm not sure how long the vacuum it or even if they do because they don't say any details when I ask...just say yep we vac purge. Kinda shady but other than the vac part I know they whip it for quite a while not sure if they check the temp with an IRT or not but after that they throw it in a small toaster oven thing for 5-10 seconds. I like vacuuming but I haven't had anything go perma-goo on me. Maybe i'm just going to have to do a small run and push the heat to see what happens.

Right now I'm evaporating some iso i washed my bho screens in(water bath method). The iso is at 115F but I have to keep an eye on it because once it is nearly all evaporated the temp will climb to the 145F that the water is at. Normally I wouldn't even have the temp this high I would just wait overnight with it sitting on a warming pad @90F, but I'm curious if a quick evap will really have that much of a negative effect.

1. I don't know why yours tastes plastic-like but I do know my wax smells and tastes very similar to the bud it came from, and my girlfriend wanted a vape pretty bad so we picked up an Extreme Q and when vaporizing the LCOG it tastes very similar to the BHO-wax. My very first run ever def had a funky taste but it wasn't purged well enough.

2. I'm currently looking for a journal or thread i was on once with a guy who has some nice big chunks of wax as his profile picture. He never mentioned anything about the steam i don't believe and I have not seen steam. He did mention something about the continuous vacuuming, if you notice that if you vacuum just until it muffins up and starts to release a decent amount of bubbles, stop the vacuum and open the lid. It should smell of butane. If you were to just pull the vacuum until max-vac and close it off, the butane being released from the honey will just be trapped in the chamber, not sure how much less efficient it makes the process but I believe the honey will purge best if you make sure you are at full vac at all times. During one of his runs he weighed before vacuuming, then weighed half way through vacuuming, then after some 24hr of vacuum. Each time of course it weighed slightly less from the gasses escaping and more butane being pulled out. I remember the difference between before vacuum and after mid cycle it pulled some 1.3g out of the honey making me thing he was running a decent amount at once.

I'll let you know if i find the thread.
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
Cannabinoids are phenols and taste like burning phenolic plastic when burned, as well as give off ugly black soot. The phenolic taste will dominate when there are few lighter terpenes left to compete with it.

The age of the material, state of dryness, and the vacuum procedure affect mono and sesquiterpene content. Using vacuum and little heat (~115F), we produce shatter that tastes and smells like the material that it was extracted from. Some of the lighter terpenes are lost, as evidenced by the smell of the vacuum exhaust, as well as the odor of the vacuum pump oil afterwards, but if you start off with them in high concentration, you can end up with more than enough.

As we prefer shatter to wax, we simply purge in thin films and it only takes an hour or two, so terpene depletion is less than the longer pulls for wax.
 

650baquet

Active Member
As we prefer shatter to wax, we simply purge in thin films and it only takes an hour or two, so terpene depletion is less than the longer pulls for wax.

I'm not picky on the final physical properties of my butane extraction, so I will def be doing thin film purging.

IMG_20130323_175041_440.jpg
A second wash of some LostCoastOG buds, came out better than I thought it would. I broke the buds up some more to expose more surface area. Got a stupid hair in it.
 

vacpurge

New Member
how are you getting it to wax up so much?!?!?! mine keeps turning to oil and I dont get it above 115F

is your bud fresh?
 

vacpurge

New Member
alright... started with a little batch. had wax.. kinda, then it turned into a perma oil, which turns out is good after a bunch of reading on that thread above, whereas wax/honeycomb is bad!?! or wtf. I dont know. I like wax and thats what I want!!!


















kinda gave up on that batch, plus wanted to make more so I make 20 gram and 3 grams of butane. got 4.5 g return. after I vac purged it, it was 4g return.







extremely underpurged:


wish it coulda stopped here:

but it melted.. :(

























if you ask a lot of people on toke city.. this is improperly made and not finished: crazy! looks delicious




 

650baquet

Active Member
how are you getting it to wax up so much?!?!?! mine keeps turning to oil and I dont get it above 115F

is your bud fresh?
I dried it out quite a bit, I would say down around 5% moisture. You use vector? try pulling a slower vacuum letting the honey stay "muffin" shaped or puffed up. I stop the vacuum sometimes before it is at full vacuum(about 23inHg; i'm over 5000ft elevation) then the puffed up honey takes it's time slowly popping bubbles. I keep the heat @110F most of the time then move it up to 130F after it has decreased in size a bit and crank to full vacuum @ about 25.5inHg maybe a bit more. Then after a few hrs or so at 120-130F I turn it down to 100-110F and leave it overnight or or up to 12hrs usually. I'm going to start a new rule where I only heat a few hrs max after it looks waxy because I feel like 12hrs is over-kill at times. Then I cool the vacuum chamber down to whatever it is outside...lately around 30F, but spring is afoot. Release the vacuum and I have my wax.

I also put my honey into a nice tall pile or make it into a snake shape, I realize this doesn't help the gasses escape the honey but it def helps make it a nice wax compared to leaving it a super thin film.
I will be trying a thin film vacuum purge next time that should only take a couple hrs but create shatter, excited for a lesser waiting time. I used to think wax was best but I feel a thin film will purge best reguardless...end of story.
If I were you I would focus on it too but if you really want wax that bad then I would try starting at a very low temp like 90-100F and pull your vacuum before you heat things up. Then make sure you are at full vacuum and let it sit at the lower temp for a while. then see if it waxes up at all, if it does just turn up the heat a wee bit more to 110F or 120F possibly. Just trying to give you suggestions that I'm not positive will work. Try whipping before vacuuming to introduce air bubbles helping it puff up under vac. Also keep it in a thicker pile to begin, the cooler temp may help keep it puffed up instead of getting too runny and deflating quickly.
Most of the time I really try not to get past 125-130F, but after my last second wash stuff waxed up I spaced out and it hit nearly 140F and it remained waxed up.
Wax is still a unmastered technique for me.

That honey comb looks pretty sweet! nice and white too! Probably gets your head super high.
I'm glad I have someone kinda at the same spot with BHO as I am. I'll be posting a lot of my BHO here so we can bounce ideas BnF
 
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