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ClassicHikone

Active Member
Please elaborate, kind sir.... growing in root pouches so no rez....Also,testing pH before adding nutes.. Just wondering if the nutes are okay to use in coco
 
hellraizer30

hellraizer30

Rebel From The North
As long as your nutes are coco safe you should be fine..! Look for the little green coco emblem on the label.

add everything into your water then test ph and adjust.
 
GreenThumbSucker

GreenThumbSucker

Well-Known Member
hellraizer30 said:
If your cgoing to use coco i would use canna coco line of nutes, its a 2 part base a/b and is used from veg to bloom. Or look at cannas bio line its organic
coco isnt soil so ph should be treated as such, 5.6 to 6.2 is the range for coco. You can add your mycos both in the coco
medium and in the res/nute holding tank.
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I am using GH flora series with cal-mag. Results so far are breathtaking. Here is what I am doing:

I am vegging in 3 gallon pots and flowering in 7 gallon pots.
I am draining to waste between 1 pint and 1 quart per pot.
For flowering I first add the calmag at 100 ppm - 150 ppm, then add ferts bringing it up to about 600 PPM. Yes, quite low PPM for budding, but they are taking off like no tomorrow!

For vegetative I add the calmag at about 100 PPM first then bring them up to 450 - 550 ppm. I drain a pint or so from each one per watering. For vegetative I am watering them every other day, growing under T5 lamps.

I was running more standard PPMs at first for flowering (800 - 900) and they handled it well, but read that lower PPMs work fine because you get a little fertilizer buildup. 600-ish PPM for the last two weeks seems to be fine so far for flowering. Im running a high nitrogen low phosphorous flowering formula (fatman's bloom).

Everything is running drip. I will post some pictures later once the lights come on.
 
burgertime2010

burgertime2010

Well-Known Member
GreenThumbSucker said:
I am using GH flora series with cal-mag. Results so far are breathtaking. Here is what I am doing: I am vegging in 3 gallon pots and flowering in 7 gallon pots. I am draining to waste between 1 pint and 1 quart per pot. For flowering I first add the calmag at 100 ppm - 150 ppm, then add ferts bringing it up to about 600 PPM. Yes, quite low PPM for budding, but they are taking off like no tomorrow! For vegetative I add the calmag at about 100 PPM first then bring them up to 450 - 550 ppm. I drain a pint or so from each one per watering. For vegetative I am watering them every other day, growing under T5 lamps. I was running more standard PPMs at first for flowering (800 - 900) and they handled it well, but read that lower PPMs work fine because you get a little fertilizer buildup. 600-ish PPM for the last two weeks seems to be fine so far for flowering. Im running a high nitrogen low phosphorous flowering formula (fatman's bloom). Everything is running drip. I will post some pictures later once the lights come on.
Click to expand...
I like what you are doing here and am seeing the light myself, less is more sometimes. I was curious about cal-mag because of the binding nature of coco...do you account for this? I have a strain that requires more food to thrive (piggy) as well as another whose feeding needs are right where you are. In Coco, a reduction of fertilizer of 20-40% is easily better than standard hydro #'s but not many seem there yet. Using 3 gallons pots in bloom I am essentially watering daily and have found a way that I can get more out of my nutrients, avoid buildup, and make it easier. So, the root volume has to be well established to make this work and in the beginning of flowering I start around 8-900 with significant drainage each time for 2 weeks. Usually, here my formula changes a bit and I up the ppms to 1000-1100 as desired. Here is the thing, with each day after, I dilute my solution down by 15% until it reaches 1/2 original strength. Give the plant a day to get thirsty and do it again. It sounds convoluded, but this wave-like schedule is just adding water and ph adjustment. The plant's appetite keeps its' root zone from buildup and by this dilution proportion my #s stay right. (RO water only). The results are magical......
 
BustinScales510

BustinScales510

Well-Known Member
burgertime2010 said:
I like what you are doing here and am seeing the light myself, less is more sometimes. I was curious about cal-mag because of the binding nature of coco...do you account for this? I have a strain that requires more food to thrive (piggy) as well as another whose feeding needs are right where you are. In Coco, a reduction of fertilizer of 20-40% is easily better than standard hydro #'s but not many seem there yet. Using 3 gallons pots in bloom I am essentially watering daily and have found a way that I can get more out of my nutrients, avoid buildup, and make it easier. So, the root volume has to be well established to make this work and in the beginning of flowering I start around 8-900 with significant drainage each time for 2 weeks. Usually, here my formula changes a bit and I up the ppms to 1000-1100 as desired. Here is the thing, with each day after, I dilute my solution down by 15% until it reaches 1/2 original strength. Give the plant a day to get thirsty and do it again. It sounds convoluded, but this wave-like schedule is just adding water and ph adjustment. The plant's appetite keeps its' root zone from buildup and by this dilution proportion my #s stay right. (RO water only). The results are magical......
Click to expand...
This is what I do too and it keeps them in perfect shape. I run a coco/perlite mix (maybe 80/20) in 5 gal pots. I use 50 gallon resevoirs and when I first mix nutrients the ppm is about 900,Ill water once and fill it back up with water which dilutes it to 750 and then again which puts it about 500/600, I use the rest of it over the next few days and then fill it up and repeat.

When I first started growing I stuck closer to the feed charts for whatever brand I was using which was usually around 1000 ppm or so, and I would get signs of nutrient toxicity and the plants would be limping to the finish line. They seem to be much more healthy and vigorous when you give them just enough to thrive,as opposed to pushing to the max of what they can handle. It is so much easier to correct a mild deficiency than to recover from nute burn.
 
burgertime2010

burgertime2010

Well-Known Member
BustinScales510 said:
This is what I do too and it keeps them in perfect shape. I run a coco/perlite mix (maybe 80/20) in 5 gal pots. I use 50 gallon resevoirs and when I first mix nutrients the ppm is about 900,Ill water once and fill it back up with water which dilutes it to 750 and then again which puts it about 500/600, I use the rest of it over the next few days and then fill it up and repeat. When I first started growing I stuck closer to the feed charts for whatever brand I was using which was usually around 1000 ppm or so, and I would get signs of nutrient toxicity and the plants would be limping to the finish line. They seem to be much more healthy and vigorous when you give them just enough to thrive,as opposed to pushing to the max of what they can handle. It is so much easier to correct a mild deficiency than to recover from nute burn.
Click to expand...
That is the truth!!! It took a lot of work to make it easy.
 
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