DWC Reserva Privada Stacked Kush

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iamjustthatguy

Active Member
Doesnt turbidity refer to the cloudiness of the solution? Im not exactly sure what you mean by increasing my turbidity.

Temps are 85 day 70 night
Humidity is 30-35 day 50-55 night
I dont have res temps atm cause I have been rotating 2 liter bottles frozen with water into the bucket to reduce temps
 
eastcoastmo

eastcoastmo

Well-Known Member
Ok mate no worries. It sounds to me like it is one of two problems. Not enough oxygen to the roots or too high/swinging res temps. Both of those problems will eventually turn into root slime and rot which will kill your plants. For slime and rot not to happen, your res needs to be around 72-74 degrees. Oxygenation is easy, drop the water level for a few days and slowly raise back up to 3/4 inch under the pot and maybe even add another air stone.

Sorry man, we're not tryin to stress you out, just trying to stop you from running into issues further down the track :)
 
Oo S0uP oO

Oo S0uP oO

Active Member
iamjustthatguy said:
Doesnt turbidity refer to the cloudiness of the solution? Im not exactly sure what you mean by increasing my turbidity.

Temps are 85 day 70 night
Humidity is 30-35 day 50-55 night
I dont have res temps atm cause I have been rotating 2 liter bottles frozen with water into the bucket to reduce temps
Click to expand...
Yes you are correct, but in this case I was using the word to describe the need to add movement to your water surface for increased saturation...like turbulence. :) -SouP
tur·bid (tûr
b
d)adj.1. Having sediment or foreign particles stirred up or suspended; muddy: turbid water.
2. Heavy, dark, or dense, as smoke or fog.

3. In a state of turmoil; muddled: turbid feelings.


[HR][/HR][Latin turbidus, disordered, from turba, turmoil, probably from Greek turb
.]
[HR][/HR]tur
bid·ly adv.
tur
bid·ness, tur·bid
i·ty n.
 
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iamjustthatguy

Active Member
Checked temps after putting a frozen bottle in about 5 hours into night cycle and it was at 72 degrees. Im guessing during day time it is getting too warm, so I am gonna start putting two frozen water bottles in at the beginning of the day cycle and the beginning of the night cycle to try and regulate it a bit better
 
Oo S0uP oO

Oo S0uP oO

Active Member
iamjustthatguy said:
So more oxygen and regulate temps on bucket. Im just taking notes as much as I can
Click to expand...
YES this and as you know, (which easty also in inadvertently mentioned twice:)) They are in a way the same thing! DO saturation is directly correlated with water temp as warmer temperature allow for far less. High res temp can also account for your plant looking under oxygenated. DWC res temps are said to be best kept under 70* and with or without fluctuation I recommend looking in to running some of heisenburgs tea to fight pathogens that our undoubtedly going to be circulating in your roots. You can also get away with running 2ml of bleach/per 10 gallon of res solution (Uncented just plain clorox) in the mean time. -S0uP
 
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iamjustthatguy

Active Member
Ill be making a gallon of it tomorrow and adding a cup to my bucket to get her looking healthy again. Heres to hoping my hydro store isnt sold out or its 1 and a half hours to the large one. First world problems! bongsmilie
 
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iamjustthatguy

Active Member
Is there a certain temperature below 70 that I should stop at? Cause im gonna try and lower it enough during night time, so that when the light is on full blast, the water doesnt get over 74 degrees.
 
eastcoastmo

eastcoastmo

Well-Known Member
Sorry mate, 70 is the lowest you should have and 74 the highest to avoid root rot. If its too cold, you'll stunt your plants.
 
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iamjustthatguy

Active Member
Alright doing the water bottle thing before and after the day period gets my temps to 22 degrees celsius or about 71.6 degrees fahrenheit so I'm gonna stick with that for the time being. The temps may get a little high later in the day period so ill try and add them about 7-8 hours in instead of at the end of the 12 hours.
 
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iamjustthatguy

Active Member
Here are the latest pictures. I believe the overwatering problem is being corrected as damage to the leaves has stopped. Temps are far more regulated now and I have began applying Great White to help provide the beneficial bacteria. New growth is green and luscious, while the damaged leaves do not look any worst. Lemme know what you think and cheers! bongsmilie
 

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Fresh 2 De@th

Well-Known Member
looks to have recovered very nicely from the cal issue. looking forward to see how she finishes up for you. gl on the rest of the run.
 
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iamjustthatguy

Active Member
The really bad looking leaves are at the very bottom and have looked that way for about a week. The pictures were taken 8 hours into the night cycle. She has been in flowering for about a week now
 
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Fresh 2 De@th

Well-Known Member
yeah, i wouldn't worry about it as much, because they're going to look like that from here on out. if anything, just try to keep up with the cal/mag and you should be good from here on out.
 
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