When to transplant seedlings from solo cup to pot

[doniboy]

When should I transfer my seedlings that are planted in FoxFarm Light Warrior Seed Starter into a regular pot filled with FoxFarm Ocean Forrest soil? The tap root of one of my seedlings (the smaller seedling depicted below) has went through one of the holes on the bottom of my Solo cup, and I want to transplant it, but I'm worried about weather the Ocean Forrest soil will burn the plant or not at this point... What to do about the taproot that went through the hole in the cup?

 

[kermit2692]

next time use larger party cups if those arent the normal size cups they look small and also make sure to fill them to the top idk ive never had a root come through when the plant is still that small but generally i repot straight to a final pot when they are about 3-6 inches depending on how the roots are looking you can kind of flip the cup after a while and let the dirt fall out to get a look at how developed the roots are..the dirt doesnt fall out freely i mean the whole clump will slide out..you get it im sure..

 

[doniboy]

next time use larger party cups if those arent the normal size cups they look small and also make sure to fill them to the top idk ive never had a root come through when the plant is still that small but generally i repot straight to a final pot when they are about 3-6 inches depending on how the roots are looking you can kind of flip the cup after a while and let the dirt fall out to get a look at how developed the roots are..the dirt doesnt fall out freely i mean the whole clump will slide out..you get it im sure..

Yes, those are normal size Solo party cups. They are 18oz and a lot of people usually use 16oz. I leave space in the cup on purpose, so that I can add more soil to the cup if the seedling stretches after it breaks the soil and before I get home from work or being out and can't make adjustments in time. Yes, the taproot of the small seedling has grown straight down and through the drainage hole. What I'm actually am trying to find out from someone with experience is should I transplant early being that, as shown in the last picture, the taproot has grown outside of the cup.

 

[Dannysayo]

Nah I'll be ok, just double cup it. It'll be a small space if u add in anoter cup. Transplanting is up to u. I have a girl two weeks into flower in a solo cup. Of course she's small, but I run 20clones at a time all in solo cups 12/12. I did a lot from seed also

 

[bigsteve]

See your picture #2. Note that the first leaves have grown to the outer edge of the solo cup. This means the roots have also reached the edge of their growing potential. This is an important pivot point in their growth as seedlings will start to grow bushy and fuller (a good thing!) only after the root system has grown to their limit. So if you want tall plants you will TP soon after the roots are grown out in the solo. I prefer shorter bushier plants so I would leave your gals in the solo cups for another 7-10 days. That will allow the plants to become mildly root-bound as they hustle to put on side branches. Then TP into a larger pot. Remember -- when TP'd a plant will then spend almost all time and energy growing roots. So don't use a 5-gallon pot for a plant you will be growing only 3 months. A 3-gal pot is good for a 3 month grow, etc.... Don't waste weeks growing more roots than you need. BigSteve.

 

[doniboy]

I do not believe you are correct. More root growth in veg = bigger plant. The two go hand and hand. The plant isn't going to waste time making roots if planted in a 3 gal vs a 5 gal, but depending on veg time and plant size,w it may out grow the 3 gallon and become root bound which may effect plant size and yield negatively..

See your picture #2. Note that the first leaves have grown to the outer edge of the solo cup. This means the roots have also reached the edge of their growing potential. This is an important pivot point in their growth as seedlings will start to grow bushy and fuller (a good thing!) only after the root system has grown to their limit. So if you want tall plants you will TP soon after the roots are grown out in the solo. I prefer shorter bushier plants so I would leave your gals in the solo cups for another 7-10 days. That will allow the plants to become mildly root-bound as they hustle to put on side branches. Then TP into a larger pot. Remember -- when TP'd a plant will then spend almost all time and energy growing roots. So don't use a 5-gallon pot for a plant you will be growing only 3 months. A 3-gal pot is good for a 3 month grow, etc.... Don't waste weeks growing more roots than you need. BigSteve.

 

[KJB1981]

Hey danny what type of yields do you get with the 20clones ?

 

[Dannysayo]

Hey danny what type of yields do you get with the 20clones ?

Well if they all were to harvest together at the same time close to 15ozs. I usually would grow them 1.5-2ft Max but sometimes the sativas get up to 3ft causing me to play w/ lights. I grow w/ cfls. I use 10 full spectrum at 5000k 6 26watt at 2700k and 6 26wayt at 7500k. Im a closet grower. I have 4mothers between 3-4ft under seperate lighting. I keep it simple w/ nutrition and soil. My soil mix is 40% perlite 10% seed starter mix that consists of sphagunum peat moss,vermiculite, and an organic wetting agent. 50% Schultz African violet bloom mix. For my nutrition added once every other watering is orchid bloom booster 11-35-15, no urea. I do very small feedings. 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water. That's half of what that bag recommends. This type of nutrition is very great for soiless mixes too.

 

[kermit2692]

way to ask advice on something then tell someone their advice is wrong lol....anyway i dont think hes wrong what hes saying is that roots grow so fast for seedlings and if you repot now the roots will never spin any in the cup and so you will get a plant that never has to stop vertical growth whereas the plant that is left in a bit longer will start to spin its roots and thats the start of being rootbound and will cause the plant to discontinue vertical growth and branch out a bit before it does become rootbound at which time it will cease to grow..anyway i agree its almost better to let it barely start binding before doing the stransplant i suggest you just use your finger to push the tap root up and into the cup and then do like a motion of rubbing the hole which will push the end of the root so it will angle to where it grows back inside the cup, do this gingerly...or just dont worry about it either way your fine and id let it go a few more days before transplanting..not a problem though really

 

[doniboy]

Well as far as asking a question and then saying the given answer is wrong goes... If you asked me what 54324 * 3455213 was, and I told you the answer was 100. You might not know what the answer is, but you know enough to know that my answer is incorrect... I also bet you wouldrespectfully disagree with me...No offense, but what I disagreed on was his clear statement that mj plants placed into a bigger pot would in essence be stunted because it would spend its time growing roots instead if growing above the soil. That was his last statement that was extra advice that I disagreed with. I've also have never hear anyone advocate letting anything other than maybe a mother plant get root bound. I've heard that one should train the pants to become bushy, but never heard or read anyone doing what you suggested.

 

[kermit2692]

well im not going to speak for someone else but i really dont think he meant it how he typed it because i get what hes saying but the end is a bit misleading.....i think....anyway though i guess you wouldnt see someone advise anything like that its not a typical thing for someone to have a situation where they say "you should not let something get rootbound per se but you should let a plant use the full potential of the container and kind of fully propogate the dirt". believe me or dont but from experience a plant always transplants better and takes off faster when it has a well established root system that can hold onto some of that dirt when you move it. seems to be a bit longer recovery time for those, that when lifted from the cup, the dirt just crumbles away and messes everything because it has very little roots yet.

 

[doniboy]

Not saying you're wrong or everything he said is wrong. I normally would wait too, but thought about doing things differently because a new circumstance that i haven't encountered before. I guess his advice was instructional, so I took it literally.

 

[Black-Thumb]

6 years after the original question, for anyone who finds this in a search.

I've tried a whole bunch of different times for going from a solo cup, to an intermediate pot, or to the final pot. What I've learned is this...

It depends on how the plant is doing in the solo cup. Like everything we do here, 1 answer is seldom the only answer. One answer might be right, but it also might not be the only right answer. It depends on conditions, strain, health and strength of the plant etc.

Whenever you are transplanting from the solo cup, it is a balancing act of time. The goal is to find the "sweet spot".

Transplant too late, and the plant is root bound = stunted growth, stress, not ideal for the plants health.

Too early, and the root structure won't be strong enough to make it through the transplant process intact, without damage, or without an excess of stress. If roots are damaged the plant will have ti waste time and energy repairing the damage that was done, and will also have more difficulty getting what it needs for moisture in it's new, larger home, requiring more careful watering practices (it could be easier to drown her depending on the soil, and she could potentially have difficulty reaching water that isnt right at its base).

Personally, I have seen less issues when I wait LONGER to transplant. Letting the plant get 25% root bound is a small price to pay for being sure the root structure can survive 100% intact through the transplant process.

That slight excess of time has never hurt the explosive growth I see from the plants once they land in their new home.

So in my opinion...

1. Wait until the plant has had what you would consider successful and impressive growth in the solo cup.

2. Once it is doing really well (a sign that its roots are strong and healthy) and its leaves have slightly outreached the edge of the cup, you are in the "sweet spot" window.

3. Once in the "sweet spot" window, I look for a few things. Roots poking out the bottom are a good sign, but not the only one (as this can happen days or a week before you are in the sweet spot). I mostly look for that positive and impressive growth to start to slow slightly.

4. Once I decide it's almost time, I set a day. Say 3 days from the time I realize I'm in the window and fast healthy growth has slightly plateaued. At that point I give it a good watering, and wait 1-2 days depending on moisture and the water retention of your soil.

After the soil has dried enough to easily break the plant free, I transplant.

Hopefully someone else sees this and can add some info that either supports or diverges from my own experience. The best way to learn and get better at what we are doing here is to unemotionally share what we learn without tying the methods or the outcomes to our egos.

 

[Weouthere]

6 years after the original question, for anyone who finds this in a search.

I've tried a whole bunch of different times for going from a solo cup, to an intermediate pot, or to the final pot. What I've learned is this...

It depends on how the plant is doing in the solo cup. Like everything we do here, 1 answer is seldom the only answer. One answer might be right, but it also might not be the only right answer. It depends on conditions, strain, health and strength of the plant etc.

Whenever you are transplanting from the solo cup, it is a balancing act of time. The goal is to find the "sweet spot".

Transplant too late, and the plant is root bound = stunted growth, stress, not ideal for the plants health.

Too early, and the root structure won't be strong enough to make it through the transplant process intact, without damage, or without an excess of stress. If roots are damaged the plant will have ti waste time and energy repairing the damage that was done, and will also have more difficulty getting what it needs for moisture in it's new, larger home, requiring more careful watering practices (it could be easier to drown her depending on the soil, and she could potentially have difficulty reaching water that isnt right at its base).

Personally, I have seen less issues when I wait LONGER to transplant. Letting the plant get 25% root bound is a small price to pay for being sure the root structure can survive 100% intact through the transplant process.

That slight excess of time has never hurt the explosive growth I see from the plants once they land in their new home.

So in my opinion...

1. Wait until the plant has had what you would consider successful and impressive growth in the solo cup.

2. Once it is doing really well (a sign that its roots are strong and healthy) and its leaves have slightly outreached the edge of the cup, you are in the "sweet spot" window.

3. Once in the "sweet spot" window, I look for a few things. Roots poking out the bottom are a good sign, but not the only one (as this can happen days or a week before you are in the sweet spot). I mostly look for that positive and impressive growth to start to slow slightly.

4. Once I decide it's almost time, I set a day. Say 3 days from the time I realize I'm in the window and fast healthy growth has slightly plateaued. At that point I give it a good watering, and wait 1-2 days depending on moisture and the water retention of your soil.

After the soil has dried enough to easily break the plant free, I transplant.

Hopefully someone else sees this and can add some info that either supports or diverges from my own experience. The best way to learn and get better at what we are doing here is to unemotionally share what we learn without tying the methods or the outcomes to our egos.

You seem insanely knowledgeable my guy. Wondering if you had some advice for me? Took a cutting to clone and put it into what I’m starting to think was to big of a pot. This is my first grow in a long time and I forgot a lot of the science. Buddy just had it so it happened. You think it will root? It’s been 5 days now and it still looks pretty healthy here’s a pic

 

[Buddtholomew]

At that point I give it a good watering, and wait 1-2 days depending on moisture and the water retention of your soil.

Appreciate the follow up as I am one of those readers.

How do you prepare the soil in the larger pot for the transplant? Is the medium moist or do you pre-water until runoff?

 

[Weouthere]

Appreciate the follow up as I am one of those readers.

How do you prepare the soil in the larger pot for the transplant? Is the medium moist or do you pre-water until runoff?

I haven’t gotten any activity here until you my man! You might wanna start a new thread- that’s said I can try to help! Since last year I’ve learned a lot

if this is confusing I’m sorry.
When I transplant, I put a few inches of soil all around the bottom of the new pot. I then use the pot the plant is in to gauge how many inches I need down there.
You can always scoop out a little where the root ball will go if it’s not deep enough.
i then put the plant (still in its original pot) into the new pot, on top of the few inches of soil. The rim of the inner pot should be lower than the bigger one by an inch or two.
i go on to fill the gap in between the pots with my medium. I water the medium (with the inner pot still in place) until a little tiny bit of runoff.
Pop out the inner pot, take the rootball out, dust the hole and ball with mykos, and plop gently into the hole. Cover with a little more medium and water fully until runoff.

 

[MickFoster]

I think the OP has finally transplanted........considering this thread is over 7 years old. LMFAO.

 

[Buddtholomew]

I haven’t gotten any activity here until you my man! You might wanna start a new thread- that’s said I can try to help! Since last year I’ve learned a lot

if this is confusing I’m sorry.
When I transplant, I put a few inches of soil all around the bottom of the new pot. I then use the pot the plant is in to gauge how many inches I need down there.
You can always scoop out a little where the root ball will go if it’s not deep enough.
i then put the plant (still in its original pot) into the new pot, on top of the few inches of soil. The rim of the inner pot should be lower than the bigger one by an inch or two.
i go on to fill the gap in between the pots with my medium. I water the medium (with the inner pot still in place) until a little tiny bit of runoff.
Pop out the inner pot, take the rootball out, dust the hole and ball with mykos, and plop gently into the hole. Cover with a little more medium and water fully until runoff.

Thank you for your time and explanation.
I’m so concerned with over-watering that I think I’m under-watering.

 

[samoka_loda]

So back to the original question.lol....I will ask in my version tho..Around how many holes should you poke in each reg size solo cup for seedlings?...I read every post on this thread and didnt even realize how old it was until I read the post about several years later so I thought that was funny but this is good info

 

[Dr. Who]

See your picture #2. Note that the first leaves have grown to the outer edge of the solo cup. This means the roots have also reached the edge of their growing potential.

????????? Say what?

You don't "need" to up pot till the roots start coiling the bottom of the cup. Say about 8 - 10 inch's tall. Maybe taller on some strains.
I've done my first topping in solo's for years.... Then up to 1 gallons, Then up to 3's and then 5's or 7's depending on how big the plant gets for my space..
Once the plant is up potted for the last time. Now they get about 10 days and they get flipped.