My 1st Grow Completed! 8 plants, 5 months, 14 ounces dry!"

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Sincerely420

Sincerely420

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Strong! Looking strong homie lol!

And all is good man. Canned the G13 and the PE #SMH.
Started germing the other Bay 11, the GHS Bubba, and the Sweet Seeds Ice Cool tho! It's a Sativa dominant NYC diesel cross after all!!
And did I tell you that those Bays are a green crack X OG cross! So you knoiw it's gone be that FLAME. Supposed to be colorful too.
Hopefully one of us gets the male damn!

But After seeing how BIG the damn tent is bro, the magic number went up to 9! And all is good on the message sitch homie.
Slide thru tomo.

PS, drop me that SLH pic!
 
ReefBongwell

ReefBongwell

Well-Known Member
Haha I'm both!! I already read about the tx thing... it's probably not gonna happen they introduce bills every year that never go anywhere even if it passed the governor would veto it

Nice timing I just saw this vid last night :)

[video=youtube;nZcRU0Op5P4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZcRU0Op5P4[/video]

Glad I don't got outdoor plants tonight it's tropical storm weather outside... oh and i hear hail
 
ReefBongwell

ReefBongwell

Well-Known Member
Haha I still have the bed intruder song from antoine dodson these guys did on my phone... assigned to a pervie friend :) looks like i got a new ring tone for some lucky person :)
 
hiitsbob

hiitsbob

Well-Known Member
that sucks on the pe i was looking at comparing them indoor vs outdoor.
also sucks on the g13 i wanted to see how that compared to the lib haze(g13xchemdog 91)
everything else is looking good? i would like a tent how big is it.
 
Sincerely420

Sincerely420

New Member
WELLL! The g-13 made a turn around lol! And is now sprouting, so looks like I'm gonna be doing 10 this next run! Everything else is graavy tho boss!
And My tent is 48x48x80! For me that's 9/10 flowering plants at a time ALL DAY! Might even get one more tent lol So I can veg in one tent and flower in the other! We'll see about it!
 
Sincerely420

Sincerely420

New Member
Genetics:

  1. Grandaddy Purple SeedsBay 11(Appalachia X OG Kush) Appalachia is Green Crack x Tres Dawg. Tres Dawg is Chemdog x Double Dawg.
    1. Mostly Sativa
    2. Breeder Suggests 10wks flower
    3. 1st place 2011 Sativa @ San Franciso High Times Cannabis cup!
  2. Green House SeedsBubba Kush(Bubblegum x Kush)
    1. Mostly Indica
    2. Breeder suggests 9wk flower(Breeder Info)
  3. Sweet SeedsIce Cool(NYC Diesel x India Sativa)
    1. Mostly Sativa(60:40)
    2. Breeder suggests 9wks flower(Breeder Info)
    3. a
  4. DNA Genetics La Chocolat(LA Confidential x Chocolope)
    1. 60/40 Indica:Sativa
    2. Breeder suggests 8-9wks flower(Breeder Info)
    3. Germinated in 48hrs. ¼” taproot showing when planted. Wet paper towel method.
  5. Emerald Triangle SeedsBlueberry Headband('76 Blueberry X Emerald OG X Cali Sour D X Pre '98 Bubba)
    1. 50/50 Indica:Sativa
    2. Breeder suggests 9wks flower(Breeder Info)
    3. Germinated in 48hrs. ¼” taproot showing when planted. Wet paper towel method.
  6. TGA Subcool SeedsAce Of Spades(Black Cherry Soda X Jack The Ripper)
    1. 70/30 Indica:Sativa
    2. Breeder suggests 8wks flower(Breeder Info)
    3. Germinated in 48hrs. ¼” taproot showing when planted. Wet paper towel method.
  7. Grandaddy Purple SeedsOriginal Grandaddy Purple(Purple Haze hybrid)
    1. 100p Indica
    2. 8-14wks flower(Breeder Info)
    3. Germinated in 48hrs. Funky looking taproot showing when planted. Wet paper towel method.
  8. Barneys FarmG13 Haze(G13 x Hawaiian Sativa)
    1. Mostly Sativa
    2. Breeder suggests 10-14wks flower(Breeder Info)
    3. Germinated in 48hrs. Barely cracked w/ taproot showing when planted. Wet paper towel method.
    4. sprout died in the soil initially. I dug up and reburied and it sprouted!
  9. T.H.SeedsDarkstar(Purple Kush x Mazar I-Sharif)
    1. Mostly Indica
    2. Breeder suggest 10wks flower(Breeder Info)
    3. Germinated in 48hrs. Barely cracked w/ taproot showing when planted. Wet paper towel method.
  10. Humboldt Seed Organization Chemdawg(OG Kush x Sour Diesel)
    1. Mostly Sativa
    2. 8-14wks flower??(Breeder Info)
    3. Germinated in 48hrs. Barely cracked w/ taproot showing when planted. Wet paper towel method.
  11. G13 LabsPineapple Express(Trainwreck x Maui Wowie)
    1. 50/50 Indica:Sativa
    2. 8-14wks flower(Breeder Info)
    3. Germinated in 48hrs. ¼” taproot showing when planted. Wet paper towel method.
    4. Sprout died in the soil.
 
Sincerely420

Sincerely420

New Member
Hahahahha Thanks bro watching now hahahah!
LMAO!!! Dude BROKE IT DOWN!

hahahahaha ahaahha "you want a duet"?!

"everybody does karaoke" hahahah


hahahahha him in the background LOL hahahahahah

hahahahaha dman haha
 
Dr. Greenhorn

Dr. Greenhorn

Well-Known Member
Wassup my dude! How have things been? I been hella busy on my side. Just thought I'd drop in and say HI. Keep em green my friend. And always grow da fire. :joint: Love the musical chairs with the thread title haha
 
Sincerely420

Sincerely420

New Member
Everything is G Dr.G! Glad you still kickin! Better bust than not right boss?!
But aloha homie! & I'm gearing up again lol!

Ps. This is the last of the name changes lol! This thread is in it closing days haha. Got like another week of like left :peace:
 
Sincerely420

Sincerely420

New Member
Spring Pot Planting Guide

By Danny Danko · Mon May 13, 2013



Heavy yields of big buds in the fall are the result of proper planning and planting in the spring. Danny Danko breaks down the basics of mastering these early stages in order to harvest more down the road.
Start Early Now, Harvest Heavy Later
As winter fades away, our thoughts turn to renewal. Spring always brings with it hopes for the future: The ground begins to warm, and tender young shoots emerge from the soil. But these plants are perennials, destined to grow out year after year without toil, while our beloved cannabis is an annual and must be planted each spring in order to grow bigger throughout its vegetative stage in the summer and then enter its flowering stage in the fall.
The best way to ensure bigger plants, and thus greater harvests, is to plant seedlings or clones indoors under lights during the winter, before they can survive outdoors. This means planning ahead and creating a vegetative space attuned to healthy, happy pot plants. You'll need a warm (over 70°F) and humid (around 50 percent relative humidity) space, clean and well lit.
We highly recommend using metal halide (MH) lights for the strongest growth and best results during the vegetative stage. The wattage you use will depend on the size of your space, but a good rule of thumb is that a 2' x 2' space can be covered by a 250-watt bulb and reflector, while a 3' x 3' space would need 400 watts and a space or larger can handle a 1,000-watt system. High-pressure sodium (HPS) lamps, light-emitting diode (LED) technology or fluorescents will work for this purpose as well, but the MH spectrum is ideal for vegetative growth and will keep internodes short and plants bushy.
The biggest outdoor plants start their lives indoors as early as December and, by the time they go outside after the threat of frost has receded (which varies depending on where you live), they're three feet tall or bigger, with thick stalks and many branches. This is the only way to achieve the massive 10-pound monsters you see in the photos.
Planting Seeds
There are several ways to properly germinate seeds. Some people place them between two wet paper towels and wait until they start popping open before gently putting them into the growing medium. The important thing to remember when using this technique is not to let the emerging taproot get too long before doing this (and also to always place the seedling into the medium with the taproot pointing down).
The easiest and most fail-safe way to sow seeds is directly into your medium of choice. Poke a hole in your moistened soil mix (or coco, rockwool cube, etc.) and drop the seed in about one-quarter to half an inch deep. Cover the seed with mix, keep the area moist and warm, and within a couple of days, you should see a tiny green shoot emerging from the soil. Immediately place it under adequate grow lighting - preferably a high-intensity discharge (HID) light - and your seedling will stay strong without stretching.
Plants grown from seeds tend to grow more vigorously than those grown from clones. The hybrid vigor particular to seeds from the F1 (or first filial) generation creates monster bushes that grow rapidly as long as they receive plenty of fertilizer and light. Many outdoor growers prefer to start from seed for this reason.
Rooting Clones
The best way to ensure uniform growth (important for indoor growers) and strain consistency is to root clones taken from mother plants and then grow them out. Clones are pieces that have been cut from plants in order to induce new roots to shoot out from the cut ends. The cuttings thus become smaller exact replicas of the mother plant, maintaining the sex (female), strain genetics and growth characteristics. This is how commercial growers end up with uniform plants that perform the same, growing a level canopy and taking advantage of all available light without shading each other out.
Clones are cut from vegetating mother plants using a sharp blade. Cut on a diagonal just below a node, leaving at least three sets of intact leaves on the cutting you've taken. Remove the lowest leaves (the ones coming out of the node that you cut below) and immediately place the cut end into your moistened medium of choice.
Temperature and humidity are very important factors for inducing roots to grow from the cut ends, so use a plastic tray with a heat mat underneath and a clear plastic dome over it for the best results. Within a week or so, you should see roots emerging from the bottom of your plugs or cubes and new growth from the plant tips. You are now ready to transplant your rooted clone into the growing medium and begin the all-important vegetative stage.
Maintaining Mother Plants
In order to get healthy clones, you must have healthy mother plants. These are female plants in their vegetative stage with green leaves and new shoots forming constantly. Mother plants should preferably be kept under MH lights, but compact fluorescents will work in a pinch.
The best way to acquire a mother plant is to grow one out from seed. But the only way to determine the sex of the plant without flowering it (unless it's grown from feminized seeds) is to root a cutting from the plant and then flower out the clone. In this scenario, the mother plant remains under 18 to 20 hours of light per day, while the rooted clone is placed in a separate flowering area under a 12-hours-on/12-hours-off light schedule.
Within two weeks or so, you'll see signs of sex on the clone, but it's best to continue flowering it out completely in order to ensure that it's not a hermaphrodite. Any signs of male genitalia on your flowering clone mean you must get rid of the corresponding mother plant or risk seeding your crops. Male flowers are easy to spot: They look like tiny yellow bananas sticking out from the buds.
If the clone is female, you'll know the corresponding mother plant is female as well. At the same time, since the mother plant itself hasn't been flowered, this means the plant is stress free, since its light schedule has never been interrupted. Mother plants grown from already flowered and then reversed plants tend to produce stressed-out cuttings, while mother plants that have stayed in their vegetative stage give off only strong, healthy clones.
Feed mother plants a mild vegetative nutrient solution and always monitor them for overfeeding. Because they live much longer lives, mother plants are at greater risk of deficiencies, nutrient overloads and pH imbalances. Give them plain pH-balanced water between feedings and you'll find that they stay much healthier and happier.
The Vegetative Stage
After a seedling or rooted clone has begun to form its first few sets of new leaves, it enters the vegetative stage of growth, when more leaves form and new shoots become branches. Care must be taken to provide the plants with a nutrient solution high in nitrogen, since this is the macronutrient that assists in the formation of green foliage.
On the N-P-K scale, the nitrogen (N) level is given first, followed by phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). During the vegetative stage, use a fertilizer with a high number at the beginning of the N-P-K ratio listed on the package or bottle (e.g., 5-1-1). Healthy green leaves and new growth are signs that the nitrogen levels are good, but yellow leaves point to a deficiency. Conversely, burned leaf tips indicate an overabundance of nitrogen and other nutrients, so scale back on the feedings and flush your plants with plain water if you see the leaf tips start to get crispy.
Keep in mind that the larger the hole in which your plant is growing, the bigger the plant will eventually be. If you're growing in containers, use nothing smaller than five-gallon pots in order to yield plants that are decently sized. Larger pots, such as 35-gallon tubs, are ideal both indoors and out if you plan to have a vegetative stage lasting longer than a month. (Outside, this period is determined by the sun, but indoors, you can control when the flowering stage is triggered by cutting back the light to 12 hours on/12 hours off.)
Root systems with plenty of room to flourish produce much larger plants than root-bound ones. Outdoors, you can dig out a 3' x 3' hole and be sure to dig deep as well. Fill the hole with store-bought planting mix and add any amendments you'll be using at this time. We suggest organic ones such as seabird guano, greensand and compost. Some people like to use polymer crystals to cut down on watering, since the crystals soak up and store liquid and release it slowly to the roots. They're a great addition to your soil mix, especially if you don't have everyday access to your grow site.
Pruning
The vegetative stage is the time for pruning in order to achieve more branches and bigger plants. Once a plant has three or more nodes, it's time to start the pruning process. It can be as simple as trimming the tops off growing shoots in order to increase the amount of future branches, but there are several different ways to prune selectively.
Some growers train the branches by weighing or tying them down. This increases the surface area that the light can reach and turns secondary branches into main tops. Bushier plants produce much more pot than Christmas-tree-style plants with one main cola.
A sinker (such as those used in fishing) works great to weigh down a main branch without having to cut it. Once the main branch sags below the lower branches, the plant signals those branches that they are no longer subordinate to a main top and can each become a dominant branch - thus raising your future harvests significantly.
Smart growers introduce a trellising system during the vegetative stage in order to spread their plants' branches wide. There are many different types of trellis, from chicken wire to ropes, but what they all have in common is spreading the canopy. Branches tucked underneath a horizontal trellis will produce many more bud sites than branches growing upward, so be sure to use one form of trellis or another to get the most out of each plant.
Foliar Feeding
The early stages of growth are also the best time for foliar feeding - spraying the leaves of your plants with water or a mild nutrient solution such as aerated compost tea or liquid kelp. Plants can absorb trace elements directly through their stomata, making foliar feeding a great way to get those elements where they are needed.
Foliar feeding is best done in the morning, before the sun reaches its highest point, to avoid burning the leaves or branches; in the middle of the day, the hot sun and bright light can also force the stomata to close up. You should also avoid spraying close to nighttime or the start of the dark cycle, because the liquid won't have time to be absorbed and will linger on the leaves, creating the perfect situation for mold to develop.
Foliar feeding has the added benefit of cleaning the leaves of any dust that could be hindering their ability to take in light. It also discourages most pests from making a permanent home out of your plants. Be sure to spray both the tops and undersides of the leaves for full absorption. Never foliar-feed plants indoors without first protecting your light source from the mist, and cease foliar feeding at about two weeks into flowering to avoid bud rot.
Onward Into Flower
Now that you've gotten them off to a good start, your plants are ready to enter the flowering stage. As you see signs of bud formation, shift over to a nutrient solution with more P and K (phosphorous and potassium). The plants you've painstakingly built into big vegetative bushes will soon transform into monster-sized marijuana trees. Enjoy!

http://www.hightimes.com/read/spring-pot-planting-guide :peace:
 
Sincerely420

Sincerely420

New Member
OHHHHHH SHIT! Your boy just got a GANG of red wigglers!
Time to get my vermicomposting in and take this take a lever higher!
Was gonna buy a bind just becuase I can, but after looking at EVERYONE here and on the internet doing their DIY thing,
I can't let myself be lazy and pay for the convenience lol.
Despite how I might make it look and seem lol, I am NOT balling like that!
 
Sincerely420

Sincerely420

New Member
LOLs^^^

Who's got FIFA 13 and a 360?

Ps, I just threw the worms in a bin full of old rootballs and newspaper lol. I'll sort em out when I get the bin built!
 
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