Drying and curing

tune420

Member
Hey guys, I've been reading alot that you shouldnt jar the buds till the branch snaps, and some people say not quite when it snaps but when it feels like its about to. I have my branches hanging individually for 3 days now (i trimmed them pretty well taking out almost all the unnecessary leaves), the buds are feeling pretty dry n the branch feels like another couple days maybe 1, and itll snap.
This was my first grow, using cfls, and at most i probably got like 20 dry grams. would it take less time to dry? Point is i dont want my bud to be to dry ya know.. I want that sticky funky shit..

What is the quickest most efficient way to get it nice and ready to smoke?
I know the longer you cure, the better but im impatient at this point:eyesmoke:
would it be a waste if i cut a piece off now n try it out?

Thanks, Tune420
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
It's not a waste to quick dry some and try it now, just don't quick dry it all!

You're better off quick drying a few bowls worth than going to the dealer.. I guess that's more the case when you yield a lot more than 20g.

After about 4 days, a quick dry actually doesn't taste that bad. There's a certain level of diminishing returns to curing. The first few days mean the most and as time goes on, the differences become more subtle.

Hey guys, I've been reading alot that you shouldnt jar the buds till the branch snaps, and some people say not quite when it snaps but when it feels like its about to. I have my branches hanging individually for 3 days now (i trimmed them pretty well taking out almost all the unnecessary leaves), the buds are feeling pretty dry n the branch feels like another couple days maybe 1, and itll snap.
This was my first grow, using cfls, and at most i probably got like 20 dry grams. would it take less time to dry? Point is i dont want my bud to be to dry ya know.. I want that sticky funky shit..

What is the quickest most efficient way to get it nice and ready to smoke?
I know the longer you cure, the better but im impatient at this point:eyesmoke:
would it be a waste if i cut a piece off now n try it out?

Thanks, Tune420
 

Moldy

Well-Known Member
If it feels "crispy" to the touch put in a jar. Check it a couple of hours later and if it's feeling real sticky and pliable put in a paper bag for a couple of hours then back in the jar. Another way that is the best is pasted below. I didn't write it but props to the author. I can't remember his name but he's on here somewhere.

This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
It's a very simple and effective process:
Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.
Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings:
+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.
65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.
60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.
55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.
Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:
Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.
 

tune420

Member
Thanks churchhaze. Would a 3 day hangdry nug compared to a nug i snipped during flowering n dried it in the microwave get me higher? if not ill just wait till its fully dry cus that microwave shit sucks
 

tune420

Member
Thanks moldy, I probably wont get a hygrometer, But is there any way to know when to open the jar? and for how long? I heard if u see moisture inside the jar, open it but for how long? thanks
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Don't dry in the microwave, it totally ruins it, use the toaster oven on low with the door open for about 30 minutes. And yes, the difference between cutting and quick drying immediately and waiting 4 days and quick drying is like night and day..

Of course, you shouldn't be quick drying all your harvest before it's even done curing. :)
 

tune420

Member
If it feels "crispy" to the touch put in a jar. Check it a couple of hours later and if it's feeling real sticky and pliable put in a paper bag for a couple of hours then back in the jar. Another way that is the best is pasted below. I didn't write it but props to the author. I can't remember his name but he's on here somewhere.

This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
It's a very simple and effective process:
Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.
Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. The Hydroset/Xikar hygrometers are also recommend after calibration. Then, watch the readings:
+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.
65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.
60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.
55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.
Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:
Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.

Also will the bud go back to a sticky state even if its crispy to the touch?
 

Moldy

Well-Known Member
Also will the bud go back to a sticky state even if its crispy to the touch?
Yeah, there is moisture on the inside of the bud that will migrate to even out. I mean crispy on the outer surface of the bud. You can feel it by applying lite pressure to the bud. If you squeeze hard you'll feel the cushy part in the middle. Don't let the bud get too dry. BTW you can buy those hygrometers (eBay) for around 10-15 bucks if you really want to know how dry it is. Pretty cheap way to know for sure. How much have you spent so far?
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Don't worry about it being not sticky. That's just sugar that you want to break down in the cure anyway. Trichomes aren't really that sticky unless they're hot or ruptured.
 

tune420

Member
Yeah, there is moisture on the inside of the bud that will migrate to even out. I mean crispy on the outer surface of the bud. You can feel it by applying lite pressure to the bud. If you squeeze hard you'll feel the cushy part in the middle. Don't let the bud get too dry. BTW you can buy those hygrometers (eBay) for around 10-15 bucks if you really want to know how dry it is. Pretty cheap way to know for sure. How much have you spent so far?
I look into it. Ive spent like a $100.. got 8 60 or 65 watt cfls
 

tune420

Member
So I only dried for 3 days and then threw it in the jar.. It was crispy but still a little squishy. How often should i burp? its been in the jar for a day now and i burped it 3 times yesterday, 10 min then 30 then for an hour, each time the bud was a little moist but feeling and getting dryer.. I just dont want it to get moldy. Should i keep burping till its completely dry? when will the dank aroma start coming around again?
thanks!
 

bass1014

Well-Known Member
thus is the question of a lifetime. the flavor cmes back when fully cured. the green smell and taste will stay in the bud untill it's dry and properly cured.. taste is all on you. toaster oven work better for quick dry or sit a piece on your light dome for a few minutes to hour depending on light your using. the hardest part about the whole growing process is waiting till the final product is complete"dry and cured for a few weeks to a month".. sometimes if you over dry you will have a green taste to it no matter how long you cure. so growing the weed is the easiest part being patient enough to hold out for the ganny is a job in itself. trial and error is the best way to get it to where YOU want it to be. and riu will help u get there just be patient. you dont want to smoke your 4 months of work up in a few hours and not get the full potential.. patience grasshopper you will soon be able to grab stone from hand.. lol
 
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