Questions. Who is Using Molasses? and does it work?

MISSPHOEBE

Well-Known Member
Morning RIU (where I am anyway!)
Hows it all Hanging?


Whos been busy with unsulphered Molasses.......?

Does it Work?

Feed during Veg and Flowering?

1 TBSP per Gallon?

Results?

xmissx
 

Chronic Masterbator

Well-Known Member
It works to help the beneficial beasties in the soil. Its not to friendly for active hydro systems. Passive systems should work. I feed it once in the growth stage and in the last weeks of flowering when I flush. I start with half a spoon per gallon then work it up. Depends on your water source. Unsulfered is the one you want. Watch the pH. It makes it drop. If I couldn't get my hands on pH down the molasses is what I reached for.
 

MISSPHOEBE

Well-Known Member
It works to help the beneficial beasties in the soil. Its not to friendly for active hydro systems. Passive systems should work. I feed it once in the growth stage and in the last weeks of flowering when I flush. I start with half a spoon per gallon then work it up. Depends on your water source. Unsulfered is the one you want. Watch the pH. It makes it drop. If I couldn't get my hands on pH down the molasses is what I reached for.
Ahhhhh Molasses makes Ph go down! Good one to know!

My water PH is a bit high - so Down is always helpful................

Cheers xmissx

:)
 

Nullis

Moderator
The ideal molasses for use in horticulture is blackstrap molasses (unsulphered), which can come from sugar beets or cane. It is a by-product of sugar refining, and still contains sugars, but also has a high concentration of potassium and minerals including calcium, magnesium, iron, copper and sodium. Blackstrap contains a variety of carbohydrates (depending on whether it it is from beets or cane) but primarily contains sucrose and simple sugars fructose and glucose. Other carbohydrates are present to a lesser extent; raffinose (in beets), galactose, pectins, hemicellulose, etc.
Molasses also contains an array of organic acids, some amino acids and B vitamins (pantothenic acid, niacin, biotin).

A teaspoon to a tablespoon per gallon can be mixed into irrigation water and applied to soil during veg or flowering phases. The simple sugars are a quick source or energy for microbes living in the soil, bacteria in particular. Molasses is also used in actively aerated compost teas for the same purpose, to stimulate and feed beneficial microbes. These organisms assist the plant in various ways, e.g. by retaining and releasing nutrients in the rhizosphere, actively seeking out minerals or water for the plant, out-competing bad organisms and protecting the plant. Microbes themselves need minerals in order to thrive, which makes blackstrap a preferable carbohydrate source in teas and in soil.

You'll have best results with well-draining and airy soil mix, as both plant roots and microbes breath oxygen.

The benefit is indirect, unless the molasses happens to supply a mineral or trace element that is currently limiting the growth of your plants (e.g. K), in which case you could see a significant benefit.
 

MISSPHOEBE

Well-Known Member
The ideal molasses for use in horticulture is blackstrap molasses (unsulphered), which can come from sugar beets or cane. It is a by-product of sugar refining, and still contains sugars, but also has a high concentration of potassium and minerals including calcium, magnesium, iron, copper and sodium. Blackstrap contains a variety of carbohydrates (depending on whether it it is from beets or cane) but primarily contains sucrose and simple sugars fructose and glucose. Other carbohydrates are present to a lesser extent; raffinose (in beets), galactose, pectins, hemicellulose, etc.
Molasses also contains an array of organic acids, some amino acids and B vitamins (pantothenic acid, niacin, biotin).

A teaspoon to a tablespoon per gallon can be mixed into irrigation water and applied to soil during veg or flowering phases. The simple sugars are a quick source or energy for microbes living in the soil, bacteria in particular. Molasses is also used in actively aerated compost teas for the same purpose, to stimulate and feed beneficial microbes. These organisms assist the plant in various ways, e.g. by retaining and releasing nutrients in the rhizosphere, actively seeking out minerals or water for the plant, out-competing bad organisms and protecting the plant. Microbes themselves need minerals in order to thrive, which makes blackstrap a preferable carbohydrate source in teas and in soil.

You'll have best results with well-draining and airy soil mix, as both plant roots and microbes breath oxygen.

The benefit is indirect, unless the molasses happens to supply a mineral or trace element that is currently limiting the growth of your plants (e.g. K), in which case you could see a significant benefit.
Gr8 Info! Thanxxxxxxxx Nullis!

- so really the Sugar in the Molasses is Not beefing up the buds.......... (it just helps the soil help the plant).............
 

Grandmah

Well-Known Member
I'm also not sure how well it works if you're working with chemical feedings. It works great in an organic grow
 

ThorGanjason

Well-Known Member
I've been doing a ton of research lately, but I'm a total newb.

However, I was planning on picking some up today. I head its a really good idea to give 2 or 3 feedings w/ molasses to seedlings. Whats going to happen, is that the bacteria will feed on the molasses. This helps get your bacteria in your soil to a higher population.

The reason you want bacteria in your soil is BC they help to unlock nutrients that are already in the soil, but not yet available for uptake by the plant.

For example, I put lime in my soil (calcium and magnesium supplement). But its not water soluble like cal/mag so it won't become usable for the plant until the bacteria make the good stuff available.

You don't want to do it constantly. Giving them molasses well help populate the good bacteria in your soil, but if you continue to give it to them they will continue feeding off of the molasses and not on the stuff in the soil that you want them to.
 

DemonTrich

Well-Known Member
i was thinking about adding this to my regimine myself. great post. im running FFOF soil, amended with 1 cup of dolomite lime (powdered) per 1.5cu' of soil, 1 packet of great white mycorhizae(sp), 1/2 bag or perlite, and mixed well. im using technaflora recipe for success nute kit (free from a grow open house). not sure if unsulphered mollassas will benefit my grow or not from my nute choice\. what do you guys/girls think? im guessing im about 3-4 weeks out of flipping 7 plants. ill be FIM'ing and supercropping once more before flipping.
 

ThorGanjason

Well-Known Member
Honestly, the ffof I think has plenty of microbes, but I would definitely think that your lime will BC available much more quickly if you gave it some.

BTW, a cup of lime per 1.5 cubic feet of soil? Where did you see that from? That stuff can raise your pH (WILL raise) and so pay attention to it. I put like a couple tablespoons per gallon of soil, or like 1/3 or 1/2 c²'
 

KangarooBunny

Active Member
Honestly, the ffof I think has plenty of microbes, but I would definitely think that your lime will BC available much more quickly if you gave it some.

BTW, a cup of lime per 1.5 cubic feet of soil? Where did you see that from? That stuff can raise your pH (WILL raise) and so pay attention to it. I put like a couple tablespoons per gallon of soil, or like 1/3 or 1/2 c²'
I add 1 cup of lime per cubic foot to my soil mix as well.

When you think about it, so do you lol. If you add 2 tbsp per gallon and there's 7.5 gallons of soil in a cubic foot... you would use 15 tbsp and there's 16 tbsp in a cup.
 

althor

Well-Known Member
There is no "measureable" difference.

If you are looking for something that has a noticeable effect, well, molasses isn't one.
 

althor

Well-Known Member
Honestly, the ffof I think has plenty of microbes, but I would definitely think that your lime will BC available much more quickly if you gave it some.

BTW, a cup of lime per 1.5 cubic feet of soil? Where did you see that from? That stuff can raise your pH (WILL raise) and so pay attention to it. I put like a couple tablespoons per gallon of soil, or like 1/3 or 1/2 c²'

Lime is NEUTRAL. That means it has a PH of 7. If you have low or high PH, lime is good for balancing it.
Also it adds some cal/mag as well.
 

calicat

Well-Known Member
Ime I would say definitely yes. Before I introduce anything new I make my own tests. I started doing it about 7 years ago. I used clones from my g-13 100% indica mother(s). Took clippings from same mother. Once in flower half got molasses treatment the other half did not. All new bulbs were placed in the light fixtures. The rate I was using was 2 tbs/gal water at the third week of flower up until flush in watering cycle. The percentages of increase in growth with molasses was approximately 8%.
 

ThorGanjason

Well-Known Member
I add 1 cup of lime per cubic foot to my soil mix as well.

When you think about it, so do you lol. If you add 2 tbsp per gallon and there's 7.5 gallons of soil in a cubic foot... you would use 15 tbsp and there's 16 tbsp in a cup.
Awesome, I'll remember that measurement for soil, I had no idea there was that much per cubic foot.

So basically 1 & 1/2 five gallon buckets of soil makes up 1 cubic foot?!

Lime is NEUTRAL. That means it has a PH of 7. If you have low or high PH, lime is good for balancing it.
Also it adds some cal/mag as well.
That's a good point about the lime, but with weed if it is taking your pH down then you should be adjusting anyways. Generally plants are already under seven
 

KangarooBunny

Active Member
Awesome, I'll remember that measurement for soil, I had no idea there was that much per cubic foot.

So basically 1 & 1/2 five gallon buckets of soil makes up 1 cubic foot?!
I know, right? I was pretty surprised by that as well. Never had a reason to know until I started growing :)
 
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